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While I was out playing, I mean plowing today my wife decided to catch me on camera. A few shots that she took of my C145 in action. It amazes me some times as to just how much snow these lil tractors will move.

but seat time is seat time! @dclarke now you know why I need a backup to the backup!

Went to West Virginia today (2nd time in this month) to pick up two round hoods that have been housed for five years in a shed! 702 and 753 ! Both need some work but good 7 hp motors and extra parts to replace those missing! I want to thank Earl Howell for saving these and selling to me. 702 has a unique cast muffler I have never seen before on 702. I have new front wheels and tires for the 702. I picked up replacement original steering wheel and gas tank.

That piddly little engine he has won't work with that! Go huge with a Wisconsin V4

No added weight on the rear. She digs pretty good with just the chains on. It could use some weight on the front or different steer tires. The front wheels tend to push a lot when turning even with the plow raised. Sure scraps the side walk down nice when the front wheels are dangling in the air though.

Wow, I've changed several drive belts, never knew how much work it was until I read your write-up. I need to take a nap to recover from it!

Wheel Horse version? Just throwing stuff out there because ya never know what triggers the light bulbs!

Like that huh? Me too and always wanted to build something similar. Toro General Search Toro General Golf Truck or click here for more images https://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images;_ylt=AwrExlRGPCxeQ1gAuCqJzbkF;_ylu=X3oDMTBsZ29xY3ZzBHNlYwNzZWFyY2gEc2xrA2J1dHRvbg--;_ylc=X1MDOTYwNjI4NTcEX3IDMgRhY3RuA2NsawRjc3JjcHZpZAM0TFBSd1RFd0xqS0oyYVlTV3MxZkFBRUROamd1TVFBQUFBQjZ1clBiBGZyA3lmcC10LXMEZnIyA3NhLWdwBGdwcmlkA2JGamhYTFhPU3ZhaGxUZjVINDM0X0EEbl9zdWdnAzAEb3JpZ2luA2ltYWdlcy5zZWFyY2gueWFob28uY29tBHBvcwMwBHBxc3RyAwRwcXN0cmwDBHFzdHJsAzI5BHF1ZXJ5A3Rvcm8lMjBnZW5lcmFsJTIwZ29sZiUyMHRydWNrBHRfc3RtcAMxNTc5OTU3MzY2?p=toro+general+golf+truck&fr=yfp-t-s&fr2=sb-top-images.search&ei=UTF-8&n=60&x=wrt

Concerning the dump bed @dells68.... reminds me of words from the great theologian Freddy Mercury, “Another one bites the dust”....... My opinion only, I would have to figure out a way to set the bed between the rear tires and lower it down some. Too tall for me. Leave the front wheels but flip the axle and drop it too. But then again, when I see this, I see a T bucket roadster instead of a tractor.

It’s Saturday night and I’m home alone. Wife and one daughter in DFW / TX for a gymnastics meet, other daughter at a friend’s house. Why not waste some time building cool stuff?

I built my jig out of wood for finding wheel centers! Thanks again Bill!

Oh and this is for you folks from Trina.

Trina spent some time this evening cleaning up the front axle. This axle is one off the parts pile from a C series I believe. Here's a pictorial: Here it is after degreasing by soaking with "Incredible Pink" After a little time with her wire brush. More brown sparkly paint tomorrow.

I’m going to stew on this for a while. Overall body length is 8’8” from the top of the tailgate to the nose of the hood, the hood is 39” high! I might just need to build a frame.

1/2 way there!

This is quite the video, with proof! When properly set up, flux core wire seems to have a better advantage than gas shielded! Am I going to run out and change everything I have to flux core? Probably not. Am I going to remember to reverse my polarity if I ever need to use flux core? Youbetcha!

We’re all in this together! Some of these things, I can act like I know what’s up. Most the time, I’m just along for the ride too!

Hey, it's red and it needs some luvin! !

I know it's not a Wheel Horse (sorry for posting) but look what followed me home. A Speedex basket case

Thanks kevin for sharing that that agrees exactly what i found out, when i purchased my new Welder and built my FEL. The whole Liftarms and nearly the complete Quickchanger is Flux welded with changed polarity, only the Hydraulic Cylindermounts i welded only with Gas. My experiences was, It needs a lot of Training to get a clean Seam on Flux more as Gas protected, but the Seams lasting same. A nice Seam can result in Gasprotected Wire Welding much easier. My experience was also - both has the same stability, but after that Vid i see, i need much more training. He meant, it shall be better, even just if it‘s the same stability im fine with. I think that is also a thing of training. Especialy the advice with the distance between Weldertip and puddle improves the Result much, that was a good advive, i didn‘t know or heared before. Thanks therefore. Only the Splatter on welding Hydraulic Cylinders for me seems to be a problem, that‘s the reason i welded them just Gas protected, because i had a fear to destroy them. The brutforce Work Tests on my FEL show‘s me nothing rips until now, also i had one day the option in our neighbour’s Forrest and can play with about 10 cubicmeters of Gravel, to shift it 30 meter Far just with FEL. The Rearweight is required to release the Front Axle, but my weldings last.

Looks GOOD, Weld it up and take it for a test drive!

So I’m not sure if I can raise the rear of the frame due to the hydro controls, but if I flip the “front” frame and put the axle on top, I might be able to achieve the same effect. Build an engine plate and hood mount and steering and everything else I need... and I’m golden!

Check out that rear end!

I'm going to stay out of this discussion, except to quote the wise words of one of our own, member Audioshot, from back in 2010: "Don't research too much about different oils. Your head will explode."

I put some new tires front and rear on the 753 and took it out for a ride.

This entry is for all my Local Circle plow dog buddies who have seen old “Clyde” turning earth. Dad likes this tractor so much that he wanted to plow with it in the winter too... Thanks again. @Shynon for making this gift Tractor a reality for my dad...he really enjoys this machine! @WVHillbilly520H will love the fact that dad gets all the traction he needs with those monster 7.60-15 AG’s and the WW-93 weights to push the wet heavy stuff. He really enjoyed his seat time today. When I stopped by tonight, I’m pretty sure he had the drive wide enough to land a small Boeing😁. When you’re having fun...

Here are the pics. The unit is a 25 series of Englander with nice options like electronic speed controls. I fired it up last night in the open bay and there was no visible smoke at any time. It puts out plenty of heat after a half hour from a cold start with the unit. After reading the manual and observing the lack of any smoky scent in the exhaust smell, I have determined that this stove will not be run indoors until and unless a CO detector is present. After research, I found that it is rated for 2200 Sq ft. My insulated shop is 1350 or so.. This stove is rated with direct contact at the base with the only concern being sparks during clean out. It only needs 6" of clearance at the back and 3" at the sides. Glad i have the motorcycle lift/ pallet jack [shown in one pic] that can lift it 30". I am thinking about running the exhaust through a heat saver.. at 25 degrees.

I am quickly finding out Denny that there is a time to have a deuce AND a single! Weird winter fer sure!

@turnnleft has a centrifugal clutch in his side by side custom, but it ts a gear jammer.

Other than a little finishing up, both fenders are done being de-painted.

Damn that breakfast looks good ! Something about free range chicken eggs mmmmm!! But hey about the charger trans today l took out the Excelerator valves and got a surprise on the forward motion valve. Needs to be replaced!

Glad to see this one’s making progress faster than Colossus EB! I of course have many more gear jammers than slush boxes. But there is something fun about a hydro control stick once in a while!

I thought about that last night, however the 15” wheels up front have different size inner and outer bearings that fit a VW beetle spindle. I have a set of spindles from my buggy that happened to be a little bent so I won’t mind cutting them apart to build new tractor spindles.

Normally there is no lube. However just to get it running you could try some WD-40 or similar. if it is hard to move the motion control lever the more likely issue is the cone just beyond the big spring in your picture. You do NOT lubricat that you take it out clean it up and reinstall.

Ha ! Funny, it seems like a lot but if you've been there done that, it really is not a big deal, just that stinkin Clutch Pulley, it takes more time to do that than almost the whole job ! This is only the 2nd time I've ever changed one, first was a 310-8 about 10 years ago and then today, the C81 which I have only had for a year or two. . Its probably the original belt for all I know. The belt didn't break it was just stretched, it was slipping. . I decided to change it rather than adjust the clutch rod for more tension. . It was inevitable. When I changed the 310 belt , it broke I now have the ref on the C81 drive belt. This C81 has a Johnny Bucket on the front and 50 Pounds sitting on the hitch. I'm sure the Drive Belt loves it ! This machine gets a workout, I use it for multiple chores regularly . Firewood, Gravel, Soil , Mulch, Leaves..whatever I can think of so I don't have to carry it !

Makes you wanna go try it, huh!?

Is there any weight added to that Dan? Looks good! Well.. the tractor at least!

Jonah, I’ve hauled a couple trucks and a car in to the bone yard now and even a full size in tow up a pretty long steep hill is continuing to impress. Like you say... it’s hard to argue the numbers. I don’t know where all the numbers come from, but they are alive and well!

You’re not late, I was just up past midnight when it changed the list

The carb I picked up is a motorbike one, not specifically for this machine. So I ordered a reconditioned carb and some more bits and bobs for it. Its coming together well now, just a temporary fuel tank to fit as the original is like a rust bucket. The new carb looks much better and came with original air filter, choke and throttle cable.

I moved the hood forward after the video was taken and gained quite a bit of room. At this point, I don’t think I need to stretch the frame any more, just figure out where the hood needs to be in relation to a bench seat. I am pretty stuck on not hacking the bed for the time being. We’ll see how it works out...

They are stretched a a little bit

I like the proportions on this one, with the hood a little lower than the bed. It just looks right to me. But maybe looks more functional and truck like than a hot rod.

I vote big smoothie’s...

I did the same thing once. In my case the "Snap Sound" was the hub cracking the entire length of the keyway. Hub came off well after that. A little "V" cut and a few passes with the Mig and the hub is good as new.

Couple of mine here 95 GMC here with only 149 on the clock. Bought brand new special order for a paltry 27k in the day! Sat most winters due to running a work truck. Standard 350 motor for the day but now she can't get out of her own way and I park it on the blacktop when the driveway needs sealcoating with oil. Cab corners rotten along with brake, power steering & tranny cooler lines. All the lines rotted where they were clamped to the body/frame. Relegated to a winter fish truck & alternate horse hauler now so this Dodge diesel sits in the shed and waits for summers & tractor shows! Gets 26 to the gallon empty but hook anything on it and 10-14! Paid over twice what I did for my house!

I have been humping pellets well over 20 years as well. I used to sell & service quite a few of them and corn stoves as well until the market became flooded with them and pellet prices skyrocketed due to demand. Lennox owned a company that made them but they have long since gotten out of the hearth products business. Things back down to reasonable now that the demand isn't as great. This was all way before the big boxes were selling them. I go through about 3 tons of pellets a year. All pellet stoves are equipped to be direct vented meaning they can be sidewall vented and combustion air be brought in. Most stoves are required by the manual to be vented this way. Always follow the install manual as far as venting or you will have problems. If you don't have the manual write the manufacturer for one. Short sidewall venting with the least amount of elbows is always preferred and running the exhaust through a heat save is ill advised, it will plug up quickly with fly ash these things produce. Most do not have a overly powerful combustion air blower. Harmans are the best by far and now they even have touchscreens, usb ports and phone apps! Whoda thunk that 25 years ago! I've got a few NOS stashed way in case I ever quit burning wood in the shop.