Leaderboard

Within an hour I had two driveways done after work I love my 876

A few more shots. It's in pretty good condition for a 28 year old tractor

Well always wanted a 416-H Mostly to use for garden cultivation. Because of it's narrow width Now On the Hunt for a 416-8. Guess I finally got lucky as it the Model year I wanted as well 1992

Radpherd, my 1045D would probably like having another diesel to hang with.

If you sell that blade the snow will come...

So I bought a couple more flat chisels to work on the RJ. Bearing removal. Soaked the bearings overnight in penetrating fluid. Started the round about hammering with my brass hammer and different sixes chisels. About ten minutes into it I saw the closed bearing (center knocked out) start to move a little! So I knew it was just a matter of working it out. Which it finally did and I ground diwn any gouges i. The metal until smooth and cleaned it out. Still have the last race to get out on the other bearing but I will tackle tomorrow!

Nice! Are you going to paint the walls a more appropriate shade of red now?

You supposed to break in the new wire with your tongue on plug whilst cranking the engine. Do I have to tell you everything?

Muncie 4 speed transmissions use 90W. They turn fast enough to go over 100mph and are transmitting a whole lot more horsepower and move around much more weight than a Wheel Horse. I'm not a gear oil expert, but I'd think 90W would still be fine in your application.

That's cheating. You gotta use ALL WH parts

Ok my answer to removing the stubborn outter bearing ring on my RJ transmission plate I am rebuilding. I decided to use my Dremel metal cutting blade to cut a slit in outter bearing ring and the welded bearing ring. Cutting the slit allowed me to use a chisel to move the outter bearing race and cut a second and third slit in the outter bearing race using the same single slit I cut first through the welded bearing ring.

Im still waiting...

Wow, that was fun. Two hours of seat time to clear mine and four neighbors driveways and a path to my deer stand. The 520 also sounded happy and a warm 70F in the cab.

Up stairs In the Barn My future wood shop Wheel Horse will get a section of Wall along with Cub Cadet & Simplicity. Though That does give an Idea I am enclosing a 37 ft X 9FT Lean to section. Might Paint the Interior of the New Walls WH Red See what You don't see behind the 416H is the Following JD Round Fender 110, Square Fender 112, 140H3, GX335(shown) X748, 2025R(Gen II) Cub Cadet 106, XT3GSX They May not Like it if there new Neighbor started Causing trouble By doing a wall color Change request

Stefan, don’t be showing my girls that ice spray! They’d be running around the Big Show trying to freeze everything like Elsa!

Ignition timing on Kohler engines. Gapping the ignition points at .020 has always been the standard answer to how points should be set. That probably will get you into the ballpark where the engine will run, but with a bit of additional effort you can improve the engine’s power and performance. The Kohler engine manual in the Red Square files section covers two methods for setting the ignition timing, Static Timing and using a Timing Light. This manual is a relatively new manual and it overlooks the fact that many of our engines were built prior to the ACR (automatic compression release) camshaft. Earlier engines (mostly 1965 and earlier) had a Spark Advance camshaft that can not be timed using Static timing. At rest (and very low RPMs) the timing is retarded to fire slightly after TDC. The timing mark (SP) on your flywheel is at twenty degrees before top dead center but at rest the points on these engines break about ten degrees after top dead center. The only reliable way to check or set the timing on these engines is with a timing light. There are a couple ways to determine what camshaft you have. Presuming the camshaft in your engine is the one it was born with the data plate on the engine has a suffix that can tell you what camshaft was used. The table below will tell you the suffix applicable to your engine. The other way to determine what camshaft you have is to remove the cam gear cover and take a look. If you see a mechanism attached to the cam gear it is the ACR cam. The following engines have the spark advance camshaft; K-141, Suffix prior to “C” K-161, Suffix prior to “J” K-181, Suffix prior to “D” K-241, Suffix prior to “D”

Welcome to our little part of the world. That shocking display of GREEN was a little hard on the eyes this early in the morning!

Tractorhead - they have a couple of names in English. Punches or drifts. That sounds like a good method for removing stuck bearings.

Tom @Shynon does but he's got his trousers down too...

@stevebo has one. A 4 wheel cart is huge Is that thing gonna be 10' long?

Speak for yourself. My rear end is harrier than it's ever been.

Yes painting. I'll take another look tomorrow. Have not had the steering apart before so didn't give any thought. Living proof that I'll never be too old to make mistakes.

What was forecast to be a 3/4" accumulation on grassy surfaces looks like it may add up to our first plowable snow.

Thank you The engine is a Hatz model 1B40, it's rated at 9.9HP, & 18.4 ft-lb of torque. After many hours of plowing I did develop some belt slippage. Other than that the only issue I've had is getting the engine to work. I've yet to make it pull on the governor. At Jim's there was some soil changes on part of the field where it got harder to pull the plow. Entering this part you would hear the tranny gears working harder but the engine would never changed tone. It was actually quite impressive to me.

Been busy with all kinds of stuff. Haven’t posted in a while so figured I’d update. The road speed just didn’t match the sound of this thing. So we need to speed it up. You can’t put a bigger engine pulley on it due to the steering. So we are shrinking the transmission pulley. It may be too small but they’re fairly cheap. Lol The old trans pulley didn’t want to come off, and there’s no way to get a normal puller on it. So I got inventive. Big Zip ties worked perfect!

Set the engine in the frame today and tried fitting the alternator into to lower rear side. Close but no cigar. The back of the alternator is almost touching the steering gear and shaft. And if I were to leave it there the belt guard would cover much of the footrest. So I guess it will be in front. Then I ran into another problem. After welding in the motor mounts I can't remove the steering shaft. Thought I would take out the shaft that the pedals go on but found out that they are welded inside the frame. Guess l'll have to cut the pedal shaft and then make a split coupler to put over it after the steering is back together.

All my tractors come equipped with hydros, hydraulic lift, foot control, and cup holders. The winter machines also have heated cabs. With age, you become softer.....or smarter.

Here’s a Porsche tractor I found at a car museum in Oyster Bay, Long Island, New York

I would think that 90 wt would still be fine. I'm considering that you would still mow the lawn at about the old 2nd gear speed, and any snow plowing the original 3rd gear speed. If you are just racing around a go-cart track in the summer, you might just want to check it once to see how the trans is handling it. Remember...no shifting with out being at a complete stop.

be careful of what you wish for.

BACK to !

Hey Take a Look at My Member Number I have been Here since 2009 Just never Posted In the Last 9 Plus years Dear Old T-MO was very Busy recruiting me to so Many Non MTF forums

I hope you enjoy the tractor. Can`t say I like the wall.

Might as well be.. Squonk sold me one at the BS for ten bucks and all it did was misfire.... just kidding Mike ...

I dropped a blade tonight as soon as I got home. I'm honestly not sure that was any faster than shoveling, but it was a LOT more fun. Once I get a few more rounds and get a pattern worked out I'll get faster. This was my first time running any sort of plow.

We had 3-4" today and I plowed with the 315-8 and 42" blade... I have to say loaded and steel weights on the "Deestone" AGs no traction issues and the Kohler never skipped a beat or ran out of power but JMO I'm not a fan of clutching shifting gears and lifting the blade wit my left arm... I so much prefer my Onan powered hydro trans hydraulic lift 520s.

It’s never fun to be caught with your pants down!

Sure. Ya got a 4 wheel wagon you wanna donate to the cause?

I guess my only question Cvans is what is your end use for this tractor? Show, plow dirt or snow, mowing, just because you can? I do like the track you are on tho.

Carefully calculated adjustments & corrections? No worries. Me too .... Just keep learnin from some of them and it's all good .

My local NAPA obviously can't stock everything. But, they are great at getting stuff quickly. If I go in early morning, they usually can have it the same day.

I don't know but give me his number and I'll negotiate the price

Had the blade for two years and it has moved alot of dirt . No snow!

Wow, just finally watched the video. What a story! To think such a tough platform never made it to production... it would have shined above the rest for sure!

You’re just a bit further away from @WHX24‘s plow day than I am. I bet there’s a few guys who would drool all over that thing turning a furrow in October!

I think if simply remove wasn‘t proper working, i would take as next step a Hot Air gun or a burner, to warm up the whole centerplate up to about 100- 150deg.C with bearings upside down. if temp was reached, i would try use some Ice spray in bearingrings to shrink them. Supported by lightly hits with a small hammer arround the Bearing it shall be popping out. If no movement was seen, i would drill 2 small holes ( about 3mm dia.) inside the opposite bearing area thru centerplate let me say to better understanding in North and South and use a ( sorry don‘t know the name of that tools) to pry the Bearing with alternating light hammer hits carefully out of it‘s Seat. allways alternately a hit on each side. If needed it can be after that removal of the Bearing be closed by simply 2 Weldingpoints. but because it was inside the Gearbox, i think it is not required.