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I know @JCM Jim would get a kick out of this one and then I got thinking there's probably others as well.... Enjoy.

I have a 1973 10hp. That I’m going to just clean and repair only what needs done. Pretty excited about both. And those that know dclarke is helping me.

First, Merry Christmas friends! Well, I’ve been around pretty much lurking since my last post. Just not enough hours in the day! First, my former student, Kierra, visited her dr at St. Jude following completion of her chemo treatments on the 17th. She got wonderful news - all three tumors from her lymphoma are gone! God is great and prayers work wonders! What a wonderful Christmas present for such a sweet 12 year old! Second, we are at the one year anniversary of Emory’s seizure. He hasn’t had another since last Christmas Eve and I pray he never has another! We go back to the neurologist at UT Children’s Hospital in January for his year follow up. That leads me to my final bit of info. Like last years, Emory is getting one of his tractors restored for his present. I haven’t posted about it, as it’s the Cub cadet he bought last summer. I also recently acquired him a matching IH #2 cart. It looks rough, but is mostly surface rust and is quite straight. Here are a few pics as per usual I’ll be finishing up tomorrow. The cart only got a good cleaning with a wire wheel and 80 grit paper and larger tires. I’ll have to restore it later when I get time. Again, Merry Christmas everybody!

A friend asked me if I could make his young son a sonic screwdriver for christmas. It's a gadget from our favourite sci-fi show Doctor Who. There have been many different Doctors and they all had their own version of this tool. I chose to copy the 4th Doctors screwdriver as it's mainly lathe work. I used some scrap titanium I had laying round. Bit of brass and some nifty spaced radial drilling and it looks good to me. To buy an official copy £350, to make mine ... an enjoyable day at the lathe.

Grabbed this little guy real cheap off CL over the weekend. Came with all the original papers, brochure, and a slip claiming a full engine overhaul in the 80's. Seems the last movement was the rebuilt engine's crank stub was broke off by an impact gun. they began repowering with a snowblower engine, but stopped when they found no way to do this outside of cutting the hood.. No idea the state of the original Teccy HH60. But it just so happens I have a NOS never fired H60 in my shed, for a WH.. and it came with the original tank and engine, pulley, etc parts currently removed. Ah well. Another project I really didn't need, but I haven't had a short frame in a while. Planning to mount my sickle on this one since it's a fair bit easier to move and store. Will likely end up repainting this one.. and shame about the original seat. It's almost perfect, but collapse of the foam claimed the edges like they all do.. Had a gorgeous '66 years ago with a red/white seat. May just try and find someone to do that.

The trailer hitch I have for the Cinnamon Horse is one that bolts to the front and back of the axle. (eBay find). Because of this I haven't been able to have the hitch on at the same time as the plow bracket. For the last couple seasons I've been swapping from a plow bracket to a trailer hitch. Yesterday I would have really liked to bring the splitter down into the forest and didn't want to take the time to unbolt the plow. Also, the side angle lever for the plow hits my brake pedal when it's in the up/back position. No brakes .. I've been making sure to have the plow lever centered to avoid this. Not anymore..... I went online looking for ideas to fix this hitch or just buy another one and on the site of the seller where I purchased this hitch I noticed that they have an option to buy a hitch that has plow brackets. Because of the fact that the brackets are in a fore-and-aft mounting position it moves the whole frame of the plow forward about 2 inches. PERFECT!!!! Well that was the impetus I needed to finally get around to getting the band saw up and running. I took a 7" section from an old badly worn long frame. Got some measurements and set about to fabricate myself some brackets. Here I am part way through the process. They're bolted together so I can get the closest mirror image possible. Remember this is all guesswork and hand grinding until it fits. I forgot to take a picture of the finished product. This drawing represents the piece that I had to cut out to make room for the back of the plow frame where the rod crosses through. Here's a shot from inside the seat pan on the right hand side of the tractor. Same side from the back on the ground. Here's a close-up so you can see the notch I cut out. Because of the fact that I moved the whole plow frame forward 2-1/2" I had to make a spacer to move the lift lever back because it contacted the steering pillow block. Here's the amount of clearance I was left with from brake pedal to plow angle lever.

Well today's the day that I got started on this project. I spend some time acquiring many of the parts for this. On 12/18 I picked up the final major item from @richmondred01. I figured that my K181S was under powered to run this PTO setup so I decided to increase HP. I acquired a K321 fuel tank bracket setup, starter generator brackets from a WH 953, starter generator brackets, from a MF10, a type II power steering pump, and hold your breath a oil reservoir from a JD 214 (as you can tell the color just had to go). I also have a C160 hydraulic cylinder, control valve, and rockshaft that I acquired earlier as well which should be a direct fit assembly. Now I need to acquire a PTO shaft for the front flywheel, to run a pulley for the pump. (If anyone has these and would like to part with let me know) Here is my beginning mock up. I am waiting for some Kohler head studs to arrive, and need to determine how to align and hook the oil reservoir to the pump. I forgot to mention I have checked my max height that I can raise the reservoir to is 19.5".

I wanted to take a minute to thank @ebinmaine for the help with the TSB install and to let you know how it worked out. Friday morning I fired up the Modine Hot Dawg heater in the garage to take the chill off and re-installed the carb when I went to start it I heard the oh so familiar sound when the starter cranks, rah rah rah rah rah rah I'm sure you guys have heard it before, not really wanting to remove the battery from another Horse I decided to put it on the charger and resume this morning, after cranking for 10 seconds or so I tried it again and she fired right up, after warming it up and then a few adjustments I can honestly say it has never run that smooth, nothing short of amazing and we didn't even have to go chinese. I figured while I had it outside I may as well take on a Winter trail ride to really warm her up, returned to the garage let it idle down for a short time and for once in a long time it didn't sound like someone threw an M-80 in the garage, and no I don't miss the BACKFIRE. THANK YOU ERIC

Paint it brown and silver and put gold lettering on it. Call it “ColossUPS”. “What can brown do for you?”

Done and glad to do it

Picked up a 518XI the other day complete with bird droppings. Needs crank seals replace. Gonna pull motor today and get my parts list together. Thinkinh of putting my Ark loader on this one.

Did some "heavy drawbar work" with the B-80

Marty, from what I've seen this tractor doesn't look like it needs a whole lot to get it back in good shape and you've already got a few problems taken care of. Hopefully you can get the blade back on pretty quick and get this thing ready for the next snow.

Glad to have some folks aboard on this quick resto! More progress: lower hood sheetmetal was swiss cheese. Cut it out and replaced with a fat 1/8" piece and even plug welded it to the inner bracing like factory. Nothing fancy, will give the edges a wipe of seam sealer before paint. Hood pin holes were worn out and brackets bent, they got straightened, drilled and GM door hinge bushings installed. Blasted and rattle canned the seat brackets and misc pieces low gloss, scuffed and POR15'd rusty spots on foot rests and inside of hood. This stuff is wicked tough and absolutely puts an end to rust. Ill scuff and shoot over it with IH red. Picked up a real clean Brinly 10" plow locally over the weekend for a good deal, and snagged a used rock shaft kit from a fellow social media Junkies member.

The frame has a coat of brown metallic on it. The paint department informed me that this paint "doesn't cover". Love the color but I'll try a different one to see if it'll go on better. Same type base so hopefully it won't eat what's there. @RJ HamnerHamner thanks for tip on the needle scaler thingy. Been thinking about one of those for awhile and didn't realize they were that inexpensive.

I'm planning a similar project for this spring. I need a receiver type hitch for my no name. Once I saw the ones on Ebay, I says to myself "Self, you can make one of these, you got a welder, and you kinda know how to weld". This will be a good project to practice my welding skills on.

Pulled the motor out and took the rolling chassis it to the car wash. Cleaned up the engine it was a mess of caked on oil. The crank seal on the flywheel side was loose.

Put my 1962 Wheel Horse 42 inch plow on my 854 today! This is my number 3 back up snow equipment! I usually put this plow on my 701 as it has the hydraulic lift and the correct rear hitch for this plow. The first pic is of the rear end on my 701. No round cross bar on the 62 plow frame normally to lock into the later type rear plow hitches. Two shoulder bolts were used in this 1962 version. so I tweaked my frame with a rod that I can remove as needed.

Hey Jim...it is a good thing you did not try to beat off any "C" clips. That roll pin would have won that fight.

And thxs for all the help

No name Wheel Horse 8 speed - at this point I have no idea if it runs - crankcase oil doesn't look bad -no water - engine turns with no noises - seals are out on the trans both hubs are drifted into the trans case . I actually picked this up for a parts tractor but this 16 hp k341 really has me thinking getting this back in service . I can't get this in the garage and start working on it until spring . Putting the numbers in I'm coming up with 1982

By the way, what the heck were you doing at 3am when you posted this last ni- rather - this morning. Assembling Christmas toys?

Funny thing about that. Now I remember 4-8 years ago buying a nearly mint 74 B100 hydro, deck, trailer, and snow blower, all for 375.00 with weights. And 100.00 specials were all over craigslist, often with nice paintwork. "Dads old lawn mower" or the like. In the last 3 years prices have gone up quite a bit. Are they actually selling? No idea. I know when I try to nearly give things away they never go anywhere.. this Commando was 100.00 on Maine CL for over a month. I called on a whim because I expected it was long gone. ..On the flip side, I'll see an ad go up for, say, a rusted out broken down C100 with a rotted deck, for some obscene price, and it'll be sold in a few hours.. Bought a gorgeous 1946 Massey Harris off CL for 700.00. At the time it had been posted a while.. Try and find a riding mower for that money now.

I guess when I was in the market buying WH tractors it was quite different then than it is now, I was always looking for one owner tractors that were kept inside and maintained properly and that is why I always paid a premium, but on the other side of the coin was all I had to do were oil changes grease, air filters and wash them until the ethanol issues sprouted up and through a wrench into basic maintenance. I see a lot of tractors on CL and wonder how they come up with their asking prices ?

Amazing to think what was once the 'bottom of the barrel and who cares at all' machines are now some of the most sought after..

Just single spool Charlyn valve I had laying around. The lift on the back of the tractor uses a lift cylinder from a Ford garden tractor.

Uhm...Clothesline, wire, fence, tree, my gloved hand(s), the ramp on my trailer, the trailer (black only), milk crates and saw horses... are all part of my outside back of garage painting “booth” design...preferred wind direction and relative humidity varies...

Good to hear you not burned, and no more is happen. ... but why tasting, some Wine or Beer will taste definitively better.. 😎 take Care of you Buddy.

@tom2p & @ebinmaine and I thought I was the only one that painted that way, does that make me an amateur even though I have painted bicycles that way since I was 10 years old ?

Trina uses a clothesline

yeah ... just slightly better than my setup ... outside next to driveway ; parts attached to wire hanging from a ladder

Could save some confusion. Some of us are knocking on a bit and get confused easily. Just make sure you get the right photo's in the right thread.

Looking at the freebie reminds me of the lyrics to a Marty Robbins song "El Paso". Out through the back door of Rose's I ran, out where the horses were tied I picked a good one; he looked like he could run Up on his back and away I did ride. Good luck with it.

This was a bad storm we had lots of ice with some snow. So The B80 8 came thru again. That plow kicks but period. With a little pressure on the handle and it digs down to the pavement. A big.

A coat of red primer should solve that problem. Not too sure about the metallic paint's adhesion without a primer under it anyway.

I agree 100%. It drove me crazy. I have 2 5xi tractors. One wasn't too bad, but the other would almost stop in a turn. I tried adjusting it, but never liked it. I took the linkage off and bolted the hydro end lever to the frame. Works perfectly. There is a Toro defeat kit out there. I bought one but never tried it.

If you ever need a hand... you know where I’m at!

I've used a power steering pump for this purpose and it has been lifting implements for years. Sure beats jerking on a long lever.

I know every one laughs but honestly its called " The Beer Store" hahahahah a small brewery I think on the other side of Toronto from me in Hamilton.....I got wire wheeling so much rust off of Big Red it made me thirsty, so thirsty I was a fire hazard. But sent that pic off to Ebinmaine cheersing him on a excellent job engineering his equipment.

That should have read Needle Gun. Though trying to type with the off hand

EB Before I figured out that the frames would fit in my blast cabinet I used a side grinder for the big spots and found a middle gun at HF that was on sale for $19. Worked great for the tight spots on the frame and on the rims. Just sayin. Your mileage may vary. Bob

Deleting it Keeps it from slowing down when you turn corners. The rod limits travel off the hydrostat as you turn the wheel and makes the tractor slow down. Straighten the wheel up and the lever goes back to normal position and it speeds up again. I didn’t care for it so I deleted it. Some like it. Can always be put back.

Yepp. Antique Lincoln 225AC. All set up. Just need to put in some practice hours burnin' rods.

Glad to see you are doing something while Trina is hard at work on building your tractor. Here is a set of plow brackets I built.

Great score Tom—I know that I’m in the minority around here on this—BUT I consider those the last of the Real Wheel Horse tractors although it is a design that was under the Toro banner. When/if a die hard gets some time on one, they will realize in a hurry that the Xi series is the real deal. They are powerful, Versatile, durable, and have commercial build quality. The only items that I wish they would’ve offered was the Cat-O and differential lock. Foot controlled hydro will be great for your FEL Tom!

@Sparky Didn't want to hijack your Topic that I enjoyed in February so I figured I would add to it. I also put a few pics of what it looked like a few weeks ago. We did have a good 8'' and then lost that and then the heavy rain for 1 night. The Brook shown is in the middle of the property and usually do not see it like this more than 2 or 3 times a year but always welcomed for the sound and beauty of it. The pics of the 417-8 were taken 2 hours before sunset on Friday and the Brook starting to freeze over were today at noon. The snow total is down to 3 '' now and I have it packed good. It's unfortunate that we all live so scattered because when I took the pics on Friday afternoon I was thinking how cool it would be to have a Winter M & G with all the Boys with their Red tractors running all the trails and stop for a picture shoot. But as we all know it's hard enough to plan for one in the milder weather without having to deal with a Washout or brutal humidity even here in Maine Enjoy the pics.

I have a similar set up on my Raider 12. I used a Hien Werner hydraulic pump on mine. I do not know your skills or your availability to a machinist but here is how the pulley is mounted to my fly wheel. Start with a rod coupling nut. You will need one the same size & thread pitch as the fly wheel nut. Partially thread a bolt into one end of the coupling nut and weld the two together. Cut the head of the bolt off & turn the rest of exposed bolt down to 1/2". This will allow you to mount a pulley with a 1/2" I.D, on the the nut. Last measure the length of the crank shaft sticking out past the flywheel. Turn the other end of the nut down so the the depth of the hole will come close to the crank shaft but not bottom out on it. Example of a rod coupling nut. https://www.grainger.com/product/1CWD7?gclid=Cj0KCQiAxfzvBRCZARIsAGA7YMxmTHKULA__BnRmqchKSHfHAoIg5PMj5IAXPgkonGN4IEsbCdfVH8EaAgf9EALw_wcB&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=Cj0KCQiAxfzvBRCZARIsAGA7YMxmTHKULA__BnRmqchKSHfHAoIg5PMj5IAXPgkonGN4IEsbCdfVH8EaAgf9EALw_wcB:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!50916758277!!!g!82128323997!?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA?campaignid=175663197

That’s a heck of a deal! If you can hold it until June, I’ll offer ya 10x what you paid for it!