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Got everything ready for snow today. Finally got my rear weights on the C195 and the ag tires look good on the 520-8 loader

Well we received four to five inches of wet snow last night and we are expected to receive some more today. I was able to get the 314 with 42 inch snowblower out about 7:30 am this morning. It worked very well but I had the snowblower shoes up a little high. So after the snowblowing was done I fired uo the 1958 Wheel Horse RJ with the 42 inch snowplow I bought and repainted this year. It worked fine but my older RJ plow in the basement seemed to work better for some reason. I have chains on the RJ this year. I always liked to see the snow roll off the RJ snowplow!

The Mona Lisa from a high tech robot mower! La_Joconde_tondue-1111 (4).mp4

Faithful L107 hauled in the Christmas tree today. Came from the patch over my shoulder.

My 1054 with 42" snow blade gets the job done whenever we get snow!

This corn maze in Franklin, NC was done in much the same way. After the corn was planted and had grown to about nine inches a GPS guided Zero Turn mower cut the paths. Truly amazing!

Wow. That's a lot of great info. Thanks guys. I knew it was the wrong engine, which doesn't bother me too badly but might once I get into this. My plane is a 1947 model and I'm looking for something that appears period correct, so a newer model is out. I am currently pulling/pushing the plane out/in the hangar by hand and there are hand tugs out there that run on power drills, so I'm not too worried about it having the power or stopping ability needed. It won't be going more than walking speed and only about 50 feet at a time. I was more worried about maneuverability and reliability. Nothing ruins a good flying day like getting to the airport and finding equipment that doesn't work or that you have to fight with constantly. I will probably fabricate my own foot rests and belt guard. I am a tinkered with some fabrication skills, so I am expecting this to be an extended project. The engine that's on there is equipped for electric start, so I was planning to fab a battery box to put on the front to make that usable while adding weight to the front end. I was a little concerned about the weight distribution, especially with my 250 lbs on the seat. Might do a weight bar as well. The push bar will be on the front, so I can also play with the geometry of that a little bit to keep the front wheels on the ground. My overall plan is to just get it set up and use it for a few months to make sure it does what I want it to and then take it apart and fix it up. BTW, here's a pic of the plane.

Just finished putting the transmission together and back in my 89 312-8 this will be the first winter i get to plow with this one. I can't wait!

Got the c81 all ready to go and yet to have any snow to push lol

@Lagersolut I like the C-101. My Dad still has one.. hold on.. there’s me on it in ‘85!💪👍😄

That'll be why she wasn't smiling.

I think that’s really something else. I also think she looked a lot like George Washington.

That is the correct starter/generator cover for your 953 tractor. You use spacers between the motor and the guard to keep an even distance from the belt. Believe it or not, the 1054-A Wheel Horse above actually came from Milton, Canada Michael! I bought this about ten years ago and "repatriated" it to the U.S.

My snow movers have been ready to go for over a month now and haven't moved an inch. I started them up yesterday just to warm everything up. I shouldn't speak too loudly though, the snow will come to Chicagoland soon enough.

I'm a little late to this thread but here it is - 416-8 I picked up in September is ready for snow . Hunted down set of 50 pound each wheel weights, went over wiring , new oils , flushed tank , fixed hood stand , new bushings , headlight bezels , points , plug , condenser, head gasket , coil ...the works . This year I'm tackling it with the 416 and a 315-8 . Hoping for some seat time with this 416 and the blower .

Well this is probable as close to pushing snow as my C160 will ever come here in Central Texas. The Chains made a huge improvement on dirt traction. it now has two 33 lb Sears rear wheel weigts per side and loaded tires. What a beast!

Got the plow back on Cinnamon after Trina painted the face of it the other day. This plow has weak springs so I pulled a couple extra off the pile and made up some longer pins. Then mounted the bracket and plow to Trina's 867. I installed the bolens weights on her tractor as well. We now have 2 plow tractors!!

When I laid my eyes on that carb yesterday that @ebinmaine had cleaned up I couldn't believe my eyes and asked if that was a new one and can honestly say I have never seen a carb that old look that good. When that boy takes on a project he is super meticulous with his prep work. He definitely has a not so serious side to him and can be very comical for sure, but when he puts his mind to a project boy is he FOCUSED. He is a great guy ! Also would be a good person to buy a WH from.

Nah Ed..... I was just able to start Christmas shopping a lot earlier this year - which is when I normally get reminded of this "historic" post. P.S.> Hard to believe that I've been at that same "real job" 11 years this past August!

@ebinmaine is this cinnamon? It looks tough! And clean!👍💪

I too have purchased from "acezilla" on and been pleased. I am not sure how he comes up with his prices but I have made an offer and had him bundle pieces. You are also going to need the small "L" shaped bracket which he has listed (see photo). Shipping on the belt guard will be about $ 15.00 and he is going to pay the shiping. Offer him what you figure the two parts shipped to you are worth, he may take it.

I think you finally figured out how crop circles were made! Pretty cool!

Im in Nashville and im still waiting ! I am ready!

If you still need to know... The butterfly screws are 3-48. If they're broken off, you can easily drill them out to 4-40. I used self tapping, Philips head 4-40 screws in my choke shaft that had 2 broken screws, and bumped both screw sizes up to 1/4" long. The throttle shaft threads got cleaned up and I put new flathead brass screws in. A little bit of threadlocker blue on them, and they are never coming out. I believe I used McMaster Carr 92453A092 for the 3-48 and 93878A106 for the 4-40 screws.

I just saw your post, an X on a plan normally shows a load point. If the roof does not have a structural ridge there might be 2 strong backs running from left side to right side helping to support the roof. It appears the are no collar ties, I was also trying to read the shaded area on the plan but could not make it out. If those are load points they will continue through the floor below, either to a footing or double / triple floor joists. They would never get point loaded on top of plywood or a single joist. Do you have a roof framing plan? Or floor joist plan? Truss roof would normally free span the distance. If you have anything else, I would like to see it. Plan notes etc. Your best bet is the manufacturer, they designed it and would know. Imho, the wall might not mean anything, but those X 's on the plan for posting a load point do. That one page isnt enough to determine. But if you can see whats down below, basement, crawl space etc. Below those 2 points you will find out for sure. Dont do anything till your sure, trust me. I have seen MANY mistakes in my career as a superintendant for a builder and building inspector. Wish there was more I could tell you. I never saw a modular with an open span volume ceiling as that, just curious. Will be following this thread along. Edit: I see you got the manufacturer to answer you. Very good. And they designated such as a chase for venting. Excellent, now you can proceed with out worry. It is ALWAYS best to find out as you did, it insures NO PROBLEMS, which is the best thing instead of taking a chance. Glenn

Just got back in town. Had a buddy at work telling me that one of his family members had a 520 that they wanted to get out of their barn, I'm game I said! What I did not know was all the attachments he had that needed to go as well. I was very lucky to drive away with a 900hr 520, 60in deck that is very clean, tiller, and blade (small frame) as well as a bag full of filters fir the low low price of $200. Cant wait to get started on it

HA HA rub it in. 70 degrees and snowing? 3 to 5 of snow tonight and 1 to 2 of snow and sleet tomorrow + an 8hr workday = BS

Alright thanks everyone!!!!! I got my tractor running way better then it has sense I’ve owned it (1 week). It was the points mostly then the carb. No popping now but it will only run with the choke on but that’s an easy fix. I was plowing snow with it and it had no problems. Other then the lack of up keep from previous owners. 👍👍👍👍👍👍

953 /1054 guards aren't as easy to come by as the std. Kohler guards. I got mine from AZ tractor who is a vendor here.

The post of Christmas past returns again! ! ! ! !

Yeah man that's the Cinnamon. Definitely a rugged tractor. The paint color is actually a satin and part of the reason we went with a non gloss is because the sheet metal of the hood and seat pan are pretty rough. It isn't exactly spotless but Trina and I try to keep our stuff in decent condition all the time. This is one of two tractors that she and I have done a full frame off restoration on.

Against my better judgement... and with Richie’s... overkill progress!

Might've been a hole to accept the wax/plastic/niylon that used to be used to keep them from backing out. Seen that many times on standard bolts but not a set screw.

Both the pics above are my own carb. Jim's was fairly clean inside and I only had it for a few hours so I couldn't use the soaking can. For mine I use a Gunk gallon soak kit. The one I have is probably 3 years old. Max. It's a less concentrated or different version of the stuff we knew years ago but it does work well. I leave a disassembled carb to soak for 2 or 3 days. Brush off under hot water.. Usually repeat both steps. Then spray a can or 2 of brake clean through all the holes and galleys. Then CAREFULLY wire brush it. I use sandpaper on a flat surface to true up both ends for a good gasket seal. Takes time and patience but the results are certainly worth it.

Here’s my Reo 44-46, tiller steer one of few known to exist! Was NOS when I bought it about 15 years ago from a dealer.

Works for me EB.....howed you get the nice shine on them? Looks like you guys are bypassing the Chinese connection! When you want me to send the dozen or so out to you I have for the treatment!

Heres my deestone tri ribs on my commando 8 i love em and they look great, perform great, and the price was unbeatable. They are also 4.00 x 8

Well some things on Big Red are lookin new again, gave the block a cleanen, the head was just caked, so cleaned it all up, ran thread chasers through all holes and dies on all bolts, installed head and torked her up. I was always wondering why she ran hot...those stupid mud wasps had 3/4 of the block fins and 1/2 the head fins caked with there mud nests. Almost half a cup of there spit mud.....i forgot how deap the cooling fins are in the block, long bycycle spoke was my saving tool to get all there mud nests out. Wew this ol farts had it for today, night all.

As i don't have reference, i'm not 100% sure. But i did make it almost exact as the rusty orginal i had. I also used thicker steel tubing, instead of sheet metal so in theory it could dampen more. I think it sounds ok. May post a video if i haven't done so already. I'm in Norway, so making these for someone in USA will be unessesary expensive...🙂

Guys I honestly tried to give him more, I showed him the value of the ones sold recently. Told him I would value the tractor alone at 1400. Very nice guy who hooked me up for sure!! Funny thing is my buddy who I work with that put me in contact with the man with the 520, has a neighbor who has a c160 in his garage that he wants to part with. I'm working out of a 24x24 garage and I have a 12x12 shed so only one project at a time for me. I will be back for that c for sure

Or go electric with a 12v dc motor. I used a power window motor for mine and made a bracket to mount it to. It's covered with a piece of membrane roof material just to keep ice out. That's a piece of 1/2" copper pipe to link the 2 shafts.

You can make one out of a 4ft length x 3/8 steel rod, a small piece of pipe and 2 cotter pins

Try this: http://mywheelhorse.com/graphics/file/Snow_Throw/Snowthrower_26in_Walk_behind_Reo_1965_626ST_26_1966_626STE.pdf REO snow blower... part #113

Plans don’t always reflect the reality of what is built. Only way to know what that wall is is to have it inspected by a trusted / respected builder, architect or structural engineer.

Having read all the above... I guess after nearly 70 years, I'm lucky to be alive.

Added weight of the raised mower deck gives solid traction. Blade does not ride on the surface so there is no weight resistance, and since it is fixed to the frame, it does not ride up on the snow. Works great!

I got a chance to use my newly acquired 312-8 today to clear about 4" of very wet and heavy snow from my 75' double-wide driveway. she did admirably- but was screaming through the entire thing unless i crept along in 2-Low. i thought it was the belt but turns out the PTO clutch was pretty loose... I absolutely love how adjusting that was completely tool-free and took me all of 30 seconds to turn in the adjuster 2 full turns. in the background you can see my POS 9hp Craftsman walk behind. just for shites-and-gigs i tried it out, and no joke it was completely clogged within 3 feet of trying to throw this wet snow. i think i might have made a good move on the wheelhorse here! One question i have for folks is- i didn't find that the blower was getting all the way down to the asphalt without adjusting the wheels all the way down to their lowest setting and then pushing my foot downwards against the lift lever while moving. is this common to have to give it down-pressure like that to get down to the asphalt?