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Man up! Go share this with your Mrs.

I can put 10 horses in this but the scraping noise going down the road overwhelms the Bose sound system in the truck!

speaking of 'Chinese junk' (and again bicycles) just this past summer replaced 50 year old dry rotted tires on an old Schwinn Stingray tubes also 50 years old - so I thought it would be good idea to replace them boom ! one of the new tubes (made in China) blew apart at the seam replaced it with the good old 50 year old tube made in USA lol

We had 2040 lbs in the box for the early pull and 2000 in the box for the afternoon pull. The track was greasy but I managed to hook up when it came down to the nitty gritty.

I saw in the free section of C/list. Hope some one picks it up.

I did a bit of that organizing thing, myself. Put the tractors I'm not going to use in a corner and the ones I want front and center.

Trust me...I know I've got it good. Mine loves to drive the little red tractors too.

I am glad that this answer was posted. I have avoided answering this post so as to be polite. Pretty telling when the first answer to a post is from a well respected member @rmaynardand that gets immediately trampled on. Seems like the intent here is just controversy and complaining without any facts behind it. As answers are given and there is no more opportunity for that controversy then it gets switched to absolute ridiculous questions. A lot of great general life advice has been given here in the past, obviously to no avail. ENOUGH Sorry everyone.

My wife says I don't listen... least that's what I think she said....

Oh boy if she sees this, you'll be sleeping in the magic shed

Here it is a 2014 7x16 RC enclosed trailer bought new in Cheese land. It hauls six tractors with about 12 inches of space down the middle. E track on the floor, strap down 2 tires on each tractor except the front 2. Pulling it with a 2018 Silverado 5.3 with air bags and onboard compressor. Hauls it pretty well fully loaded, usually about 65 mph. Gonna wire it up this year for a generator to run portable AC and C pap machine. I have Velcro screens for both doors and usually sleep with both doors open all night. We sleep on cots, looking to put in a fold down bed. Plan to pull it out to the Big Show in 2020. Also used to store tractors and attatchments all year round.

I’m on my way!

Yea, but can a gun make a kickin pot roast ?

You might check the timing with the method described in this thread

This post made me want to name them all. Only my GT1642 had a name until now. GT1642 - Hod Rod. Dad named it. Love the way that Briggs idles. 312-8 - Munchies. Has a Trac Vac on it for leaves. 416-8 - The Barbarian. Has an Onan. Needs work. My local dealer calls them Onan the Barbarian. Powerful but touchy. 317-8 - Frankie. Short for Frankinstein. It's a 1987 310-8 with a 1985 314-8 wiring harness and 1986 KT17. Bill

In case anyone asks, I didn't read that sign that Craig just posted. But whatever it said, it was pretty funny!

what a sharp looking lineup!!! Well done Sir! Your winter work horses are ready for action I worked for about 2.5hours organizing my shop area and it only looks slightly better😡. I gotta keep at it in order to get it where it needs to be! I need to make an inventory book of all the specific parts and pieces that I have available. Then I need to get some boxes in which to organize the smaller parts. Eventually, I will make doors for my shelves that will bring a great level of visual organization...one of these days

https://egge.com/info/egge-tech/ Egge Engine Tech Correct Compression Ring Installation Ring Installation Piston Ring Installation Tips Compression Ring Gap Clearances Typical Ring Types/Shapes Piston Ring Terminology Detonation and Pre-ignition Failure Analysis Overheated Components Valve Conversion Set Correct Compression Ring Installation Listed below are the general rules for the installation of various types of compression rings. Rings having a "pip" mark or dot on the side of the ring must always be installed with the "pip" mark or dot towards the top of the piston. Rings with a bevel on the inside diameter but no "pip" mark or dot must be installed with the bevel towards the top of the piston. Rings with a groove or step in the outside diameter and no "pip" mark or dot must be installed with the groove toward the bottom of the piston. It is a good idea after installing all rings on the pistons to recheck each ring on each piston for correct installation. Rings having no dots, bevels, tapers, or grooves can be installed either way. Top of Page Ring Installation The event of engine downsizing has caused many changes in almost every engine component. Piston rings are no exception. They have been reduced in diameter as cylinder bores have become smaller, with corresponding width and wall reductions. Compression rings 1.5 mm wide (.0575") are becoming more common than rings which are 2.0mm (.0775") or wider. This reduction in the cross sectional size of the ring has caused the ring to become somewhat more fragile with respect to handling than rings of larger cross sectional size. For this reason it is necessary to use care whenever these rings are being handled, but most importantly when the ring is being installed on the piston. Care should be taken to follow the instructions below: 1. Use proper piston ring installation tools. 2. Keep the ring absolutely flat when opening to install on the piston. 3. Place the ring squarely in the groove and carefully release the tension of the ring installer. If these procedures are not followed, damage will occur to the axial and/or radial shape of the ring, as illustrated below. If the rings are installed after this type of damage has been inflicted, engine performance will be affected. Blow-by will increase and oil control will suffer. Compression rings must never be spiraled on the piston. Remember, these procedures are always important in all piston ring installations, and the more fragile the ring, the more care must be exercised. Top of Page Piston Ring Installation Tips 1. Insert rings squarely into the bore before installing on piston. Measure end gap with feeler gauge. 2. Adjust gap if needed by filing both sides of gap equally. (See Compression Ring Gap Clearances) 3. Use ring expander tool to install rings on piston, so as not to deform ring—do not "spiral" on rings. 4. Install directional rings with the dot up (otherwise oil pumping may occur). 5. Install 3-piece oil ring with expander points up to avoid catching in drain-back hole/slot in oil groove bottom. 6. Stagger location of end gaps on each ring 180 degrees apart. 7. Clean bores with hot soapy water & scrub brush, wipe with clean white rag to check for any residue. 8. Lightly oil cylinder walls and rings with regular non-synthetic motor oil. 9. Properly tighten ring compressor so rings don't catch on edge of cylinder or pop out in bore (don't force piston if it is hung up). 10. Typical engine break-in: use conventional motor oil with zinc additive or oil with zinc—change oil after first 3,000 miles. Use only synthetic motor oil if originally specified by manufacturer. Top of Page Compression Ring Gap Clearances Ring Diameter End Clearance Inspection Limit 1.0000 2.3624 0.006 0.014 2.3625 2.9524 0.008 0.016 2.9525 3.5424 0.010 0.020 3.5425 4.3299 0.012 0.022 4.3300 5.1174 0.014 0.026 5.1175 5.9049 0.016 0.030 5.9050 6.8899 0.020 0.035 6.8900 8.9999 0.024 0.041 9.0000 10.9999 0.029 0.047 Top of Page Typical Ring Types/Shapes Top Compression Rings 2nd Compression & Oil Control Rings Top of Page Piston Ring Terminology Top of Page Detonation and Pre-ignition Failure Analysis When an internal combustion engine is torn down for rebuilding and badly burned and distorted pistons and valves are found, it is very likely caused by extremely high combustion chamber temperatures and pressures from detonation or pre-ignition. Generally speaking, most machine shops know that such damage is caused from abnormal engine operation. Too often, the customer does not know what causes the costly damage, yet the machine shop may be unjustly blamed for an engine "that didn't stand up." Detonation and pre-ignition are forms of abnormal combustion in the combustion chamber. During normal operation of the engine, the burning of the fuel-air charge produces a steady, smooth push on the pistons of each cylinder. At the instant of ignition by the spark plug, the flame of combustion moves rapidly outward from the plug very much like the waves when a stone is dropped into a pool of water (see Fig. 1). Abnormal operation may allow combustion pressures to develop so fast that the heat and pressure will "explode" the remaining unburned fuel. This produces the knock, often called "ping", carbon knock, etc. Actually this is detonation. The knock results from the violent explosion when the normal flame front runs into the secondary flame front. Detonation will cause piston and ring damage, top ring groove wear, scoring, sticking rings, blown head gaskets and possible complete engine failure (see Fig. 2). Detonation can be caused by: 1. Lean fuel mixture 2. Fuel octane too low 3. Improper ignition timing 4. Lugging of engine 5. Carbon deposits 6. Excessive milling of heads or block, which will increase compression ratio. Pre-ignition, as the term suggests, is the ignition of the fuel-air mixture before the regular ignition spark from the spark plug. If the regular spark occurs shortly after the pre-ignition, the colliding of the two flame fronts will cause a pinging noise. Pre-ignition causes loss of engine power and can cause severe damage to pistons, rings and valves (See Fig. 3). Detonation and pre-ignition are so closely related that it is often difficult to distinguish one from the other by sound. Each can lead to the other and either condition can cause extensive engine damage. Inspection of damaged pistons and rings quite often indicate which caused the damage. Damaged pistons and rings usually mean replacement. The same damage can occur again unless the cause of the detonation or pre-ignition is corrected. Pre-ignition can be caused by: 1 . Carbon deposits that remain incandescent. 2. Spark plugs that are too hot of a heat range. 3. Spark plugs not firmly seated against gasket. 4. Detonation or the condition leading to it. 5. Sharp edges in combustion chamber. 6. Valves operating at higher than normal temperature because of excessive guide clearance or improper seal with valve seats. 7. Overheating. 8. Ignition crossfiring. Induced voltage in spark plug wires that run parallel to each other for long distances. Top of Page Overheated Piston Image shows piston with oil caked below ring belt, again, indicating excessive cylinder temperature. Overheated Rings Image shows a ring which was removed from an overheated engine. You'll notice the bluish cast, lack of free gap (loss of ring tension) and misalignment of ring points.

Click on the picture to read about it Garry

I managed to fathom the throttle cable fixing out. It runs nice and smoothly. Did a little more electrical work today, new switches for headlight isolator and tail lights. Illuminated toggle switches, look very nice. Also fitted an LED light to the starter button feed so I can tell when ignition is on.

Kevin!!! I love the organization—I’m currently sitting in my favorite recliner but seeing this pic is motivation enough to head out to the shop and organize...

Thanks Craig, that explains allot. Sometimes it helps to know the whole story, now page 2.

This is my two wheeler this morning sweeping the park area we maintain as a community project.

Picked up a Wheel Horse Tub Cart from a retired co-worker and friend on Halloween. Kind of a late Birthday present to myself. Have been looking for a nice solid one for awhile. He said his Dad picked it up in 1965 along with the Wheel Horse he bought brand new.

Yes some hood modifying is in order as suggested above. That blower was not designed to work on that tractor.

Remove the hood and fit the blower up to make sure everything is good and operating correctly. Then figure out how to fit the hood back on with the blower installed so it doesn't interfere. Seems better and probably easier to adjust the hood position than modifying the blower position. You could always run it without a hood if needed or find a crappy 2nd hood to cut and modify for blower duty.

Now where did l leave that cluster gear!!

S.W.M.B.O. said, "If he'd listened to woman, man would have the babies."

Well, I bet there was a commercial about it at one time...

Perfect...

Maybe a turbo when she's 5 lol

Are you crazy?

is that an 1 1/8" hub in your pocket or are you just happy to see me?

I'm a licensed vehicle safety and emissions inspector in his state, and that part is 150% BS. There are no rules on the books in our state against using E0 in an on-road vehicle. Should his county or municipality have such a law on the books a lawsuit needs to be filed as it would violate the state's preemption laws. I actually find many parts of this thread to be dubious at best. While Alleghany County does have extra gas taxes I can find no record of a 60% tax on off-road, or non-E fuels. Next, octane is a rating of a fuel's resistance to ignition, so removing octane won't make gas harder to burn.

Doesn't have to be hard... whatever gets the job done.

Add some Seafoam to the gas that you wish to store. 1oz per gallon & the gas should keep for 6 months or more. If you need to empty cans that have ethanol gas in them, why not dump them into your vehicle?? It should keep there until the next time you need to fill up your vehicle again. Now that you have a location to get ethanol free gas that is only 15min away, I don't see a big need to stock pile it. JMO

Just talked to Betty at the Bradigan's in Elizabeth, said she had plenty of non- ethanol 90 at 3.99/gal. It looks to be about a 15 minute drive for you, go get you some.

Looks to a real nice original and the back is not even busted up! Evidently the PO did not know about tripping it then backing up to dump. I've got two of them, one for beating up and a nice one for tub rides!

A few of our stable dressed for our county’s birthday parade!

You guys are making me ashamed of my gender. Looks like we need to take another trip to Mamby-Pampy land and get you guys some self confidence. Stand up for the truth, point out "she" is choosing to be angry, and above all else tell here to get her shoes off and get back in the kitchen.

I just call 'em all "mine"

Steve and Kev, that's just wrong. Don't make me post a picture of me in my speedos at the beach .

Mine is a 7x14. Pulls great, the Chevy and the Ford both like it. I haven’t tried to see how many tractors I could get in it but I have put two side by side. I think I could get 4 regular sized in it comfortably. Gt14, and other big wheels, not sure. I lined it with E- track on the floor, one row 24” off the floor. Eventually it will get another row 48” off the floor on each side. Also put a shelf in the front that is removable. One day will have cabinets, removable beds, and hopefully A/C.

Thanks @Achto! So if I’m reading correctly what you are saying, “beware of someone selling a v-nose that may be measuring from the tip of the nose to the rear door instead of from the rear door to the point where the angle starts...”. A 18’ trailer could become a 14’ pretty quickly So...I’ve begun trolling the archives cause my buddy Tom must be doing some night plowing or something and I came up with a thread he started on this topic when he bought his trailer just over 5 years ago... Some great info here

Hahaha ! That's

No names that are printable.

Where’s the boots?

I BUY ETHANOL FREE FUEL AT LOWES AND IT COSTS TO MUCH........BY THE GALLON,,,,,,,PREMIXED OR JUST FUEL......CHEAPER THAN THE HEADACHES..........