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hi men, here is a few pics of my son-in-laws C161 i just fixed. i don't know how many of these cracked/ broken seat support areas i have fixed. certainly a weak link and a bad design of the late C series and 3,4 and 500 series. my hobart welder sure came in handy. thanks to my buddy phil for the pics. mike in mass.

hi men, i ventilated the belt guard AND the support bracket to hopefully avoid the dreaded valve seat issue. i had the belt guard sandblasted and powder coated. please note the 8 inch deck gauge wheels. i can cut very high. thanks again to my buddy phil for the pics. mike in mass. t

Well, after a lot of time and money, I finally have a site I am comfortable with. Included is a section called "The Yard" which includes pictures of every tractor we have in the yard right now. I am still working on it, so not everything is posted yet, but I have all the Cub cadet and Wheel Horse tractors on there. For members or visitors of RedSquare, here is a one time use coupon for an additional 10% off any order over $25.00. This coupon works with the current 7.5% discount applied to any order on our site over $25.00. That's a total of 17.5% discount on one order. Coupon Code: CC0RMYU73C Coupon expires 10/31/2019 Good for one time use only on orders over $25.00. www.joesoutdoorpower.com Thanks and please provide feedback on the new site.

Just finished up on this one! Here's a couple shots of the interior that we build.

It is for a old volvo amazon and no i just bought the pipe for the muffler and i bought a stainlessteel bend. this is how it got, maybe the radius of the bend should have been smaller so the muffler could have been closer to the hood but it is what it is.... parts was less than $50 so im happy with it. At least its better than before

As stated on a previous post my oil pressure light keeps flashing regardless of everything I have tried. Rather than being worried about the actual oil pressure I elected to install an actual gauge along with also a hydro temperature gauge. Quite a bit of work but worth it. Oil pressure is actually much higher than expected with 25 at 1500 RPM going to about 59 at full throttle. Having a bit of an issue with the hydro temperature sensor. Was working fine but suddenly no reading. Will replace that shortly.

6 brake light bulbs, 2 still working. Seems auto manufacturers could give another dummy light for a blown bulb... In my mind, brake lights are much more important than turn signals. I use my turn signal, but if it was out, someone is just inconvenienced... not in my back seat.

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You don't. When they go bad, buy replacement bearings # 103119 for about $25 each on Ebay...or sometimes $60 for a set of three. Just press out the old bearing and press a new one in its place.

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Well, turns out the guy that was going to look at it was looking for a project for his 2 sons, and they both decided that they want a ford instead (some peoples kinds, right? LOL). I've done a bit more work to it the last few days and I'm starting to like the truck. I might call and put insurance on it tomorrow, put antique plates on it (Like $60 for 5 years registration and no inspection) and sort it out some. If It runs and drives good, I might just have to keep it!

Its really simple. Just a bit labor intensive due to the difficulty in removing the engine shroud on the Onan. Once that is removed you just need to remove the old sending unit above filter and replace it with the one that comes with gauge. The new one is substantially wider than old one and would not thread in correctly since it interferes with filter housing , so a two inch nipple was necessary to extend it past that point. Then its just a matter of placing a wire from it to the gauge. The second wire in the old one (blue I believe) just needs to be grounded so hour meter works when key is turned. Then the gauge itself needs to be grounded (black wire) and red wire connected to power source activated by switch. I merely tapped it into the 15AMP fuse which is switched that way. The temperature gauge very simple also. Merely replace sending unit with new one and use same wire. Find the wire in back of dash (dark green) and tap into it to gauge. The other two wires same as the other gauge. I am not a fan of the dummy lights and the oil pressure one was worrying me. This way there are no questions whether there is pressure or not. One can foresee a problem before its too late, from both the oil pressure and hydro temperature.

Ugh.......

SWMBO would have a hissy fit if she saw one of those on the window.

I see the chickens decided discretion the better part of valour and kept out of the way.

Nice to know there are repro parts out there. So, reverse rubber for sure... I don't see where I'm missing a foot rest. The resto's I've seen just have a foot peg on the left side. My right side has the foot pedal that's attached to the drive lever, and a foot peg. It didn't take much to get this running. Everything seems to work. I did put a set of tires on it, inc. different / slightly larger front wheels. Engine is not orig. and is a 1969 9hp Briggs. I'll likely do a full resto on this, not overly concerned w/ originality, but will want it to at least look period correct. I'll somehow use a Kabota replacement muffler like on the Yardman hot rod mower as I really don't like a lot of noise. Color I envision is a light mint pearl (like the inside of an Andes Mint) with cream accent for wheels, seat, engine, jackshaft. I have the rear fenders as well.

Oh, man... I hate to spend this much $ on one but this isn't too far away in NH. $150 though... I'm tempted... Edit:...Well, I just made an offer.

EB just a thought, put aside your wish to purchase a Mig and use that $$$ to get a plasma cutter, I have the Chinese Cut 70 with high frequency start, the consumables are reasonably priced and you can get some mileage from them by keeping the amperage adjusted only to cut the thickness of metal your working with. You need a decent compressor that will supply a constant supply of air at 60 psi, at times I had to wait on my 5 hp on an 80 gallon tank to catch up when cutting up scrap machinery. Half and three quarter inch material no problem, severing a solid steel shaft 2" in diameter requires a bit of whittling. large nuts rusted solidly in place I slice each side vertically then the halves are easy to remove. Preparing a bevel or an angle on metal to be welded, filled in then with a finish pass is a snap. Eighty percent of welding is spent with preparation.

Did some more work today. Ran all new fuel line and put 2 fuel filters on and cleaned the tank the best I could. You should have seen the disaster that was the inside of that tank. Hoping to grab a new grommet and pingel from the dealer tomorrow. Once I have that I can drive it totally under its own power. I plan to add the 48" deck that's on my C-160 and mow with it. I'll be interested to see how the Onan twin compares to the 16hp Kohler. 416-H Running

I was 75% certain this tractor wasn't used hard when I saw the add. Now that I'm in this it's 100% The carbon deposits in the combustion chamber were minimal, I was anxious to get a look at the stamp on the piston to see if it was rebuilt. Noticed when I pulled the plug it was running rich .....after pulling the air cleaner may have found why . Don't think the blades were ever off the deck . This is basically a 1 owner tractor ..a church , the person I bought it from had it for a little over a week , bought it because his John Deere was down , turned out it wasn't serious fixed his green one , so he listed this . Here are some pics of the progress so far - the biggest problem this tractor has is in the hood stand, whoever was getting on and off of it was using the PTO engagement lever and steering wheel to do it . Coil wire on the plug end was so rusted can't believe it even ran . I did almost no cleaning on this very little dirt anywhere I tear into it . New fuel line , filter, shut off valve and oils are done . Next up is the hood stand - back marker lights - new fuse holders- washers , nylon bushings and spring on the PtO lever - grease zerks on the pedals and I found some headlight bezels thanks @CasualObserver clean the carb few other odds and ends This is gonna be my go to tractor when it's done ...can tell that already

My temp light comes on after running for 30 seconds. It can't seriously be overheating that fast. I turn it off once the light comes on, just in case. Could it be a bad sensor or something? Where would I find it if so, and how might I check it? Tried searching, but couldn't find anything specific. I'm pretty new to small engines. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much!

Searched high and low and could not find a digital Fahrenheit one for the 2" pod. Sure enough when I am done I find one. Going to change it. I don't want to be doing calculations while I am driving it..

Don't remember how many times a car would come into the shop with no headlights and BOTH bulbs ended up being blown. ( My wife had a Volvo that would tell you who was sleeping with who as you drove by a house)!

A simple one. Add a WH hood and fender pan plus some other small parts. I've seen plenty of "Custom Wheel Horses" at the show which have less WH parts on them.

Went with making my own hard links and rear hangars. So far so good. Next up are the 10.50 ag tires I have on order and to rob the wheel weights off my old David Bradley.

Nice ride!! Is that a K91?

10-4 e-mail was already sent

I agree.....do NOT hammer on it. Chances are there's nothing wrong with the casing. More likely the gasket slipped or some of the old gasket was still stuck to it. Get a new gasket and try again making sure the mating surfaces are spotless. I personally would use gasket sealer on the gasket too.

Have fun! The most satisfying thing I’ve ever done is building my FEL after I “taught” myself to weld.

My horse got some exercise when we pulled the dock out of the lake today. 4 trailer loads of dock sections/concrete blocks up the hill to their winter home. The lake house is pretty well winterized now - water drained, antifreeze in the drains, dock out of the lake, pontoon on the trailer and hauled off to winter storage. Need to winterize the travel trailer tomorrow, mow & sweep the lawns and haul the ashes out of the fire circles.

Good points Ryan.. I think if you practice abit EB you will do fine with what you scored. Heard tell the old timers did fine farmer welds with one of those with a coat hanger for stick with a wash of CO2 from a fire extinguisher. Not makin that up just what I heard. I guess the only question I would have is flux coated sticks were suposed to be kept in an oven or something to keep moisture out of them? What say you on that pro welders?

Thank you Richard I ain't smart enough to do links on a stupid tablet either. Sediment bowls are old skool and cool but many here don't like them as they tend to leak and often don't catch all the dirt. The filters above are readily available at most hardware stores or on line. Let us know you need more help.

Yes pics please Steve. Did the 18's unlevel the tractor much? Steering better on soft snow and slush. As expected no better on hard pack or ice. A quick pull on the lift lever if they start to skid on tight turns on hard pack. My sno rig with 16 V's

https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/transmissions.html#!/Toro-Wheel-Horse-Headlight-Bezels/p/84960293/category=23710227

I mowed the go-kart track about an inch high yesterday. Though she’s quite plain, “Jane” is a blast to drive. She helped me rake up some clippings to help keep the grass out of the kart engines.

I think Garry nailed it...tree toad. They can be very load during the night. We were camping at Kelly's show a few years ago...back of the Charlotte county fair grounds. They were so loud, I was tossing stones and sticks up in this tree to try to get them to shut up. NO TREE TURDS WERE HURT THAT NIGHT.

Like the one of my FILs I pictured earlier in the thread?

A freshly cleaned and primed hub(that didn't break taking it off!), A little anti-seize, and wheel studs! Also welded the extra holes shut on the rear fenders that aren't covered completely by the taillights.

I have seen that one and thank you very much for sharing it. I've also looked a bit at one based in Maine here named Brandon Lund. And there's a college somewhere that puts out something called weld.com.

hey Jeff I know you're trying to help with that and everything but there's no way I can leave a piece of plywood laying around. that amazing girl friend of mine who just can't sit still would grab it and make something out of it.

Been too busy sorting parts and tearing this down to get any pictures posted so here's a quick update: repaired and refinished the gauge panel(had a lot of gouges and marks from the hood rubbing), and replaced the right rear axle seal(only leak on the whole tractor)