Leaderboard

hi men, here is a few pics of my son-in-laws C161 i just fixed. i don't know how many of these cracked/ broken seat support areas i have fixed. certainly a weak link and a bad design of the late C series and 3,4 and 500 series. my hobart welder sure came in handy. thanks to my buddy phil for the pics. mike in mass.

hi men, i ventilated the belt guard AND the support bracket to hopefully avoid the dreaded valve seat issue. i had the belt guard sandblasted and powder coated. please note the 8 inch deck gauge wheels. i can cut very high. thanks again to my buddy phil for the pics. mike in mass. t

Well, after a lot of time and money, I finally have a site I am comfortable with. Included is a section called "The Yard" which includes pictures of every tractor we have in the yard right now. I am still working on it, so not everything is posted yet, but I have all the Cub cadet and Wheel Horse tractors on there. For members or visitors of RedSquare, here is a one time use coupon for an additional 10% off any order over $25.00. This coupon works with the current 7.5% discount applied to any order on our site over $25.00. That's a total of 17.5% discount on one order. Coupon Code: CC0RMYU73C Coupon expires 10/31/2019 Good for one time use only on orders over $25.00. www.joesoutdoorpower.com Thanks and please provide feedback on the new site.

Just finished up on this one! Here's a couple shots of the interior that we build.

It is for a old volvo amazon and no i just bought the pipe for the muffler and i bought a stainlessteel bend. this is how it got, maybe the radius of the bend should have been smaller so the muffler could have been closer to the hood but it is what it is.... parts was less than $50 so im happy with it. At least its better than before

As stated on a previous post my oil pressure light keeps flashing regardless of everything I have tried. Rather than being worried about the actual oil pressure I elected to install an actual gauge along with also a hydro temperature gauge. Quite a bit of work but worth it. Oil pressure is actually much higher than expected with 25 at 1500 RPM going to about 59 at full throttle. Having a bit of an issue with the hydro temperature sensor. Was working fine but suddenly no reading. Will replace that shortly.

6 brake light bulbs, 2 still working. Seems auto manufacturers could give another dummy light for a blown bulb... In my mind, brake lights are much more important than turn signals. I use my turn signal, but if it was out, someone is just inconvenienced... not in my back seat.

20190831_165047.mp4

You don't. When they go bad, buy replacement bearings # 103119 for about $25 each on Ebay...or sometimes $60 for a set of three. Just press out the old bearing and press a new one in its place.

20190915_163307.mp4

Well, turns out the guy that was going to look at it was looking for a project for his 2 sons, and they both decided that they want a ford instead (some peoples kinds, right? LOL). I've done a bit more work to it the last few days and I'm starting to like the truck. I might call and put insurance on it tomorrow, put antique plates on it (Like $60 for 5 years registration and no inspection) and sort it out some. If It runs and drives good, I might just have to keep it!

Its really simple. Just a bit labor intensive due to the difficulty in removing the engine shroud on the Onan. Once that is removed you just need to remove the old sending unit above filter and replace it with the one that comes with gauge. The new one is substantially wider than old one and would not thread in correctly since it interferes with filter housing , so a two inch nipple was necessary to extend it past that point. Then its just a matter of placing a wire from it to the gauge. The second wire in the old one (blue I believe) just needs to be grounded so hour meter works when key is turned. Then the gauge itself needs to be grounded (black wire) and red wire connected to power source activated by switch. I merely tapped it into the 15AMP fuse which is switched that way. The temperature gauge very simple also. Merely replace sending unit with new one and use same wire. Find the wire in back of dash (dark green) and tap into it to gauge. The other two wires same as the other gauge. I am not a fan of the dummy lights and the oil pressure one was worrying me. This way there are no questions whether there is pressure or not. One can foresee a problem before its too late, from both the oil pressure and hydro temperature.

Ugh.......

SWMBO would have a hissy fit if she saw one of those on the window.

I see the chickens decided discretion the better part of valour and kept out of the way.

Nice to know there are repro parts out there. So, reverse rubber for sure... I don't see where I'm missing a foot rest. The resto's I've seen just have a foot peg on the left side. My right side has the foot pedal that's attached to the drive lever, and a foot peg. It didn't take much to get this running. Everything seems to work. I did put a set of tires on it, inc. different / slightly larger front wheels. Engine is not orig. and is a 1969 9hp Briggs. I'll likely do a full resto on this, not overly concerned w/ originality, but will want it to at least look period correct. I'll somehow use a Kabota replacement muffler like on the Yardman hot rod mower as I really don't like a lot of noise. Color I envision is a light mint pearl (like the inside of an Andes Mint) with cream accent for wheels, seat, engine, jackshaft. I have the rear fenders as well.

Oh, man... I hate to spend this much $ on one but this isn't too far away in NH. $150 though... I'm tempted... Edit:...Well, I just made an offer.

EB just a thought, put aside your wish to purchase a Mig and use that $$$ to get a plasma cutter, I have the Chinese Cut 70 with high frequency start, the consumables are reasonably priced and you can get some mileage from them by keeping the amperage adjusted only to cut the thickness of metal your working with. You need a decent compressor that will supply a constant supply of air at 60 psi, at times I had to wait on my 5 hp on an 80 gallon tank to catch up when cutting up scrap machinery. Half and three quarter inch material no problem, severing a solid steel shaft 2" in diameter requires a bit of whittling. large nuts rusted solidly in place I slice each side vertically then the halves are easy to remove. Preparing a bevel or an angle on metal to be welded, filled in then with a finish pass is a snap. Eighty percent of welding is spent with preparation.

Did some more work today. Ran all new fuel line and put 2 fuel filters on and cleaned the tank the best I could. You should have seen the disaster that was the inside of that tank. Hoping to grab a new grommet and pingel from the dealer tomorrow. Once I have that I can drive it totally under its own power. I plan to add the 48" deck that's on my C-160 and mow with it. I'll be interested to see how the Onan twin compares to the 16hp Kohler. 416-H Running

T70b. Picked up yesterday for next to nothing. Another project. Looks like a big-boy rear axle:

Link above doesn't work... link below is not secure. http://joesoutdoorpower.com/

I USED A 2 INCH HOLE SAW ON MY 520-H. IT DROPPED THE TEMP. IN THERE OVER 20 DEG.

Turn signals are nearly non Existent around here! You have to read someones mind to know which way they are going!

Yesterday the Belt arrives. firstly i try in a hurry to insert, and wonder Why it will not Fit. Firstly i doubt i‘m made a fail in measuring, but it was allway‘s a good idea, to take some Picts before you disassemble a thing. a simply Fail while wrong insert clears up, where was my mistake. at later night, i review my Picts and found one, where the Belt is shown. I insert it in right direction and the mower fits. i wonder a bit because of stiff spanner, so i get some Gease and bring it back to work. Maybe this was the reason, while the old belt Lasts that quick. However, i try the Mower firstly on slighter grass, later in higher grass. Yes, it works well again. After harvesting my last potatoes, i decide to clean up the Field, but i didn‘t want to do it manually. So i develop a Stupid idea, Why nor use the Wheelhorse, as long as Mowerdeck was out for Cleaning. That was the Rest i can keep for myself.... 😎 Because the neighbours ask for a Try. I‘m proud, they ask me, so it give me the feeling my harvested Result can not be Bad. i spend some and keep for us just 3,5 Kilos. The complete Harvest was now all together 28Kilo by inserted 5 Kilo. Anyway, Than i search for few Quickstraps and bound my Manual Tiller onto my FEL. So i can do the Job while having some Seattime on my beloved Horse. I wanna move the Beast, while it‘s prepared for Road Approval. Done as Sayed, i fiddeling it onto. and it looks funny, but i tryed it if this will work. i did a small Video, to show how it works, think i have to build a simple Leversystem, that i can mount it quickly and stiffer, but it does it‘s work better than i expected. i needs several passes, because our Soil iv very clayley. but after 5 Passes, i satisfied with the Result. 865C2EB0-9104-44E1-9241-0534B8D67221.MOV

I think that those vehicles must be too old to have indicators for all of the lights. My ol' ladies Jeep will tell you if you have so much as a license plate light.

Well played sir

I have a tiller that has never been apart and it has a very small leak that does not bother me! I always check fluids before using a tractor or implements like a tiller. Gasket is probably the issue here but wear and tear rough on these things. The oil seals are more prone to leak and you have two on each side of the shafts in the housing.

Weld’er up EB! Have fun fixin’ and buildin’!

The gears are pretty snug. I usually can't just grab the shaft and spin it, especially not fast enough to move fluid. To spin it by hand and move fluid I have to install the pulley, stick the end of my finger on the outside of the pulley and spin my hand around about as fast as I can. I estimate I am getting it to about half of the speed the engine does at operating throttle. I have to go get my dad's one car to take for safety inspection tomorrow, I can drive it without getting in trouble because I have an inspection license, if he gets pulled over for the expired stickers he will get a ticket. I'll stop at the store on my way and get a roll of oil-safe thread sealer tape and see if that makes a difference.

For the motor mounts use solid mounts from Zach Kerber. https://www.zkbrmachine.com/category/product/-188

Might have to hold that info hostage in return for some The hood tie downs were on parts tree I believe or still available from a Toro dealer. Guessing you have a shaker plate? Check this thread out for the engine mounts. Unless you want to stay original? https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/82967-new-solid-motor-mounts/?tab=comments#comment-816595

Slowly moving forward... This will be made into a new exhaust

Yes put a roll pin back in for positioning then weld it. Of the dozens I've had out I don't think I've ever had one that wasn't welded. Just a hole for the dog point. Make sure the shifter boot is in good shape. Now might be a good time to change fluids too. Always easier to refill through the shift hole

Well everyone... I bought a welder last night!! A Lincoln 225 AC. I kid you not. I got a Lincoln welder from a man named Lincoln W. And it was a tractor repair business!!! An old one in fact. 4th generation is now coming into the business. Absolutely amazing place as you can imagine. I could just move right in there. The fella's father or grandfather bought the welder new a few decades ago. He's 44 and couldn't remember exactly when. Has barely been used for the last couple decades. It's been fitted with extra long cables. Both clamps have been replaced (again, decades ago) with very little use since. In fact the stinger still shows shiny metal in the clamp. Reason for sale? Well he has (had) 2 stick welders. The one he always goes to is a VERY old Marquette brand. I got the welder, a few 6011, 7018 and a nice little demonstration for 100. I'll be busy as all get out the next few days but I'll post pics when I can.

you know Dan... One would almost get the impression that you're not fond of flux core welding...

I'm going to need a bigger garage......

Flux core SUCKS!!! It is a very messy weld with a lot of spatter. If your going to buy a wire feed welder make sure that it is capable of using gas as some do not have this capability. The one & only advantage to flux core is that you can weld out side on a windy day.

Wished I had a picture of the shack, when my father purchased the acreage in 1928 it was a one room shack he added another. The boards were all hand split cedar lengthwise with a shake roof. The walls were stuffed with ferns for insulation. The outside never painted I think you fellas call it natural patina. We had an old refrigerator made of wood it had a belt driven compressor and used sulfur dioxide for refrigerant A wood stove that as eventually converted to oil using a keymack oil burner conversion kit. Running cold water with hot water off the stove. The shop was divided into several compartments, tool shed, woodshed, blacksmith shop with a chicken coup running backside the full length of the building. A metal lathe, drill press, compressor welder along with an assortment of electrical hand tools, and a large scrap pile that never seemed to dwindle in size no matter how many projects were pulled from it.

I'll jump in on suggesting an old Lincoln cracker box welder. They pop up on craigslist for around $100 once in a while. They're the small block chevy of the welder world. Common, simple, and cheap. For that kind of money, you can't really go wrong.. and you'll still have enough money left over to find you a wire welder should you want one!

Yeah no worries Jim. Whatever I can do to help.

Following with interest here EB as I am in need. I usually take all my welding to Dan's place but is a pain in the rear if I just need to tack something together. I usually bust out the torch and braze it but that is getting old too and doesn't work in all applications. So a welder and a bigger air compressor are definitely on my tool list. Unlike you I am definitely going with a mig of some sorts. Just don't know if I should go flux core or gas? I am also lucky that I have a bro who is a professional welder so I am going to just drop a dime on him and tell him to pick me something up that will do just fine for a hoobyist! Or haul Dan's @ss to HF with a coupon in hand and have him help me pick something out! Even with the steak dinner I'll have to buy prolly be the cheapest route!

Have seen a few of the ID plates beside the fan gear before but never paid any attention to what models did this. Recorded all this with the hope the mystery will be solved someday. If I have any of the numbers wrong correct me. Click on the fuzzy pictures to see the notes. Garry

Find an old incandescent flashlight tape the batteries together and use the bulb and some wire. A lot of the old bulbs had a slight lip around the top of the base. an alligator clip and wire from it to the battery stand the neg end on that wire. Then another alligator clip to the terminal you are testing of the trigger and touch its wire to the bottom terminal of the bulb.