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I picked up this 1944 Farmall B with a Henderson loader Saturday. It runs good, but the starter switch, even the new one, isn't making contact with the lug on the starter. I can fix that, with a couple of solutions, but for now, I'm just putting a wrench between the plunger on the switch and the arm that pushes against the plunger. Anyways, here are the pictures plus a video the seller sent me before I bought the tractor.

It is funny how an individual can be oblivious to another model of GT until he or she has an occasion to own one. I recently picked up a 953 and a 1054 in a package deal. The 953 has been on my radar for about 2 and a half years since Dad got one. However, I haven’t studied the 1054 at all but since I own one now, I’ve been trolling the archives last looking for posts concerning them and I was disappointed that there isn’t much out there. So, I’ve decided to start a thread dedicated to the 1054 and 1054A. I would like you guys to post pictures and information about your 1054 that you currently own or used to own. I would like to get any stories about the history of these tractors. I went to the Wheel Horse “Bible” and there was next to no information about it. It is intriguing that the 953 and 1054 were so popular and yet they completely discontinued it never to be revived. The GT-14 was the next Big Wheel Horse and it was hydrostatic drive which was the right decision but I find it fascinating that they didn’t offer it in a GD model. What changes were made from the 1054 to the 1054A? Why was the 1055 a small wheel tractor? I know, I have a lot of questions but there seems to be a lot of mystery surrounding this machine. It is such a beastly departure from the small wheel tractors at the time. I weighed the front cast iron grill surround and it weighs 48# all by itself! To start things off, I purchased my 1054A from a guy who only had owned it for a couple of years. He had purchased it from a long term wheel horse gentleman, who’s health was forcing him to sell it. He had completely rebuilt the rear end but I have no paperwork to verify. I will say that the shifter boot is in new condition. This tractor appears to be mostly original except for the dual electric horns and button on the left side of the dash. Those of you who are well versed in these, please point out anything else you see that doesn’t look original. Serial number is 49349. This tractor runs extremely well for how it looks on the outside. It is my desire to keep it looking pretty much like it sits right now on the outside. I want to clean the fuel system including the tank and replace fuel lines and seal the tank. I want to get a vintage headlight lens for the missing one and also a vintage tail light lens as that is also missing. The steering wheel is in great shape and the dash decals are in good overall Patina condition. The controls need to be cleaned and lubed well and I need to verify the drive belt and clutch spring as it seems really “jumpy”. I’m looking for opinions on the wheels. Should I restore/paint them antique white or leave them with the Patina that they have? I am not planning to change the tires as these are the same exact ones that were on the 875 that I grew up using except for the 15” rim size of the rears. I can honestly say that it is so fun using this tractor and I can’t wait to learn more about this model and see pictures/read stories of your original and restored 1054’s...

Tonight after dinner the wife sat down on the couch with her phone. A few minutes later she told me "Go get $175 out of the ATM, grab a trailer, and go to X address". On my way to the bank she called me and told me to grab $300 instead. Got there and this is what I found waiting. So, uh, what was I saying about not buying another WH?

Was originally listed for 700 wouldn't budge lower than 600 . Only problems I found are in the hood stand - steering column bushings are out and the hole is cracked and the bushings in the PTO engagement lever . This tractor wasn't used hard - not a leak or a seep anywhere. transmission oil was clean as a whistle no signs of water .

Does she have any sisters that are single

Here's my 1054. I purchased this tractor in Long island NY, it had spent it's entire life caretaking an estate. After the owners passing his family sold off his collection, I wish I could have seen the rest. I love this Tractor.

Hi everyone, just picked up this which is a rare find over here across the pond. I am thinking it’s a suburban 400 but I may be wrong? It’s had lots of mods on it but will soon go through a full resto soon. Here are some pictures.

No, but she has two sisters who need divorces and a single brother who is confused about not being a girl.

CONFIRMED BY 2 PROS........ LET THE RESTO BEGIN !!!!!!!!

I've had pretty good luck with oil removal. Even on cast parts which are somewhat porous. Brake clean works wonders. So does a pressure washer. Also I've heard tell of literally cooking a part clean of oils. I've personally used a torch to "empty/cleanse" wheel hubs and other things.

I have decided to fabricate a deck over the winter that will utilize the spindles, hanger and wheels from my stamped 42" rear discharge deck. The last one I made was for a Scag zero turn and it restored new usefulness to that unit. Similar to my last one, my plan is to lay out in CAD, the current size, approximate shape and openings of the current deck. Then I send my drawing to a waterjet service and they cut the layout from 3/16" steel plate. Then I weld the pieces on a welding table. Once finished, I will prep, prime, paint and then transfer my wheels, hanger and spindles to the new deck. I think the rear discharge decks lend themselves well to this because they are symmetrical. Once the layout is completed, the material cost and welding time is the only repetitive cost if I were to make more than one. Anyone interested in these? Any wish list? Obviously, a prototype would be nice to see but I can't take time from mowing to disassemble my weekly mowing equipment until the season is finished. Just tossing out the idea and gauging interest. Thanks.

Does she ask you when she needs new underwear?

It does make quite a nice flower stand 👍

Here’s mine. Of course this one is getting built for my wife. I like the painted wheels/ patina look. It’s what I am going for on my 953. Here is a picture I picked up off my facebook group. It’s exactly how I want to do mine. I believe he used linseed oil. I have the AMC rules “Johnson paste wax” for mine. I will be painting my wheels also.

Yup,953's and 1054's are pretty neat tractors.I had a real nice 953 and sold it a couple yrs ago.Still have a 953 skeleton here in my bone pile.Her's a pic of my 1054 that I've shared here before.I use it as lawn art and flower planter.I offered it to a guy last year for 200 bucks.He offered me 100 because the ignition coil is missing and he said he'd have a hard time finding one??Just as well he didn't buy it.Anyway,have fun with your new toys.

Well I really don't have much to offer to this thread as far as knowledge or information but it's going to be fascinating so I'm going to follow along. My vote on the wheels is to paint them. I don't know why but there's something about an older patina on a tractor that has nice fresh looking wheels that is pretty awesome.

We know that you saw the pulley; would you mind showing it to us? We may be psychotic, but we aren't psychic!

Take a small punch and put a dimple in the clamp, problem solved.

Thanks everyone - I was hesitant going 6 bills ... the condition pushed me over ...had to have it, picking it up Friday , ready to get in in that garage and give it the full going over .

Well worth 6 bills in my opinion

Oooh...K-341 baby! Nice score there.

But this a great excuse to get new tools past the boss lady

Tough putting a 28 footer on that!

I tapped mine to 1/2" NPT, used a short nipple and went to 3/4" pipe. It threads easily and the smaller nipple won't harm a thing. Make sure you take precautions to keep shaving out of the engine.

Seems as though I've read somewhere about that work horse name. Maybe wheel horse wanted to use it but got in trouble because it was too close to a Canadian tractor brand??? Am I dreaming this up? Maybe I'm inhaling too much regal red?

I think that is correct...400 suburban...1960

No... not customs... the originals. Jim posted his in this thread years ago.

You may be over worrying about this unbalanced issue. You engine weighs 178 lbs abut 48 more than a magnum 18 or KT17 All the engines have cast iron flywheels of similar size that would hang out over the side.. The weight difference is in the block which pretty much sits over your frame. The blocks are all essentially the some width. The Magnum /KT measures 13.39 inches (per manual) I measured the K532 on my d200 from air shroud to engine end plate about 13.5."

I made the 1054 work Horse decals years ago at the request of a customer and just assumed he was knowledgeable on those tractors as of course at that time I didn't know a 1054 from a B-80. Would be awesome to find out the real story on them. I will happily mail you a pair of Wheel Horse 1054 decals Sparky. Let me know Also my opinion of treating the tins with oil rub may be in error but once the oil penetrates the metal you can not get decals or paint to stick even after sandblasting. So if that is true it is kind of like getting a tattoo. Make sure it is what you want. Has anyone had experience repainting a hood that has previously been given the oil treatment?

Not sure about this for sure, but didn’t one of the years they have Work Horse decals on the hood? I don’t have to many pics of mine on my phone, it’s obviously a repaint and I did my rims completely different, but Terry sold me a set of Work Horse decals. Somebody here like @953 nut might know if there is any truth to it.

Thanks Eric for chiming in and your thoughts on the wheels. I have always liked that look too but I’m curious what people’s opinions are concerning this. I also need to contact @Vinylguy to see if he can create a 1054 decal that looks weathered yet readable. I’m disappointed that neither hood decal and grill decal is gone.

AWESOME...is really the only word that comes to mind. Since the tractor isn’t at my house, I can’t measure for you at this time but I would say that they are 1-1.5” deep lugs. However, the pattern doesn’t make for a clunky ride when on solid surface. I definitely recommend them for any Big Wheel guy that wants a tractor look with lots of bite at a decent price. Oh yea...if you are prone to wrapping your fingers around the fender while driving, I wouldn’t recommend this size tire on your tractor Essentially, I feel that they look good from any angle. More importantly, they work great!

Thanks guys! Yes, interlock kit has been ordered. I started to make my own, but it seemed like reinventing the wheel... 953, I bought a 10 gauge cable from Harbor Freight this morning. It has the L14-30 twist lock plug and receptacle that match the generator and recessed plug that should be here tomorrow. Danny

Ill take some more pics next Saturday . Here's on from one of the most complete operations we've found . It's in a different location and I'm pretty sure I posted this one before ...maybe not

Shoot Lane, you're close enough you should have come over. You don't need a vice or massive bench. It taps very easily. I started with a taper tap and followed up with a bottom tap. That's where I got both the taper and bottom. They were cheap but seem to be good quality. I'm not gonna be doing 100's of them anyways.

Do you think she could teach my wife to do that?

My main grass cutter is a 520h with 355 hrs. Rotated between a 314h 42” deck, classic gt 42” deck, Kubota bx1500 w 54” deck, and the 520h 48” deck. The 520h is by far the smoothest and most effective of the group for my rocky clay weed yard.

We have several 1054's and one 1054-A. Main difference on 1054-A is frobnt and rear tires on the original tractor. Turf type tread on back and wider tires on front than the 1964 model. Wheel Horse advertised and sold 1054 and 1054-A into 1966 (see company advertisement literature). I do not know of any knob differences on shifter , etc. The 953 had white knobs on the Throttle and Choke cables and black on the 1054- and 1054-A's. These are really great tractors. The early 953's had the Ross steering gears. The demand for the tractor forced Wheel Horse to develop a fan gear as they could not get enough Ross steering gears to meet demand. The Ross steering gear was being used and sold in a number of other model garden tractors at teh time. The 953/1054/1054-A is the first garden tractor with a 48 inch Mower Deck made in the USA. The first photo of four of our 1054 s was used in the "American Pickers" TV Show shown on December 4, 2014 (The Grudge Match) when they bough a 633 Wheel Horse Garden Tractor in Iowa. The picture was used as backup history on the Wheel Horse company in the segment.

Camshaft rod. Clean with something like brakecleen and fill with silicone.

Looks like a really fun project I recently put a 185 lbs twin diesel engine on a 195 for testing. It was wider too, and I ran into two problems that I guess you might perhaps see too. One of them I had not foreseen. I had to be creative with the right side brake pedal, and engine location, as it would hit the engine. That was in the cards, and easily manageable by moving the engine a few inches forward, and modifying the pedal and a few other bits a bit. However what surprised me was the shift in weight because the engine had to hang a bit out on the left side to align with the trans pulley. That really made it obvious how much the frame flexes. You will be surprised, and you better be ready to beef it up a bit, or somehow get some weight to the right side to balance it out some. I had a hood that tilted left more than 10 degrees. Looked just ridiculous. Managed to level it out some, but new beefed up frame is on the drawing board to fix that once and for all. Just a little heads up

That Sundstrand tag has 90-1136 on it. It should read 90-2062 as the GT-14 only used that unit. What's more, I can see the HYDRO MOTOR attached to the side which is the 2nd giveaway that you are dealing with a substitute power unit. The GT-14 came with Sundstrand Hydro-Gear 90-2062, as I mentioned. Some prior owner has swapped out the original unit and put the bigger GT-14 Drive Pulley on it.. In any case, that leaky trans will need fixin' ....Tough part is getting sheet metal out of the way, then getting the hubs off. On SOME models, you MAY be able to SPLIT the trans open by removing the 5 or 6 bolts. Spread the cases far apart as possible, then reach in with long wrenches and remove the 4 (8-pinion) or 5 (10-pinion) differential bolts. Then you can remove the internal clips and pull axles out...with hub still on.

There’s always the possibility that the Work Horse decal was just a Terry custom and I ended up with them. @Vinylguy

to all of the members that replied on the issue i had with the tractor ;i want to thank you ; it seems that a cotter pin busted off that holds that item on the back side of the idle pulley ; so it wasn't a pulley which is great ; again thanks so much

This is gonna be another good thread to follow. When I joined here was the first time I saw a picture of a 953/1054. My first thought was it didn't look like a wheel horse. You just don't see those in my area. Can't wait to see what is to come in this thread! I do think repainted wheels with a patina tractor looks good. Randy

I think it is the other way round. if you turn a rear wheel and the other turns in the same direction then you have a limited slip 10 pinion. If the other wheel turns the opposite direction it is an open differential 8 pinion type.

Eric is exactly correct. The single stage blowers work much better when you are able to vary the ground speed to keep the blower housing full of snow. The single stage blowers need the housing full to push the snow out the chute. If the housing does not have enough snow to clear the chute, the wet snow will freeze and clog the chute. On the dual stage blowers, this is not a problem. The hydraulic transmission and lift is really needed if you are clearing many short driveways where you are constantly changing forward/reverse and lifting the blower or plow. For long runs, it is not as necessary. The blower weight can be countered with lift assist springs so your electric lift would work although it would not lift and lower as fast as a hydro lift. I am sold on hydros for plowing or blowing snow. I also add forward/reverse foot control to all my hydros so I have two free hands, one to steer and one to operate the lift.

The only thing I can think of would be having a better ability to control speed and also a hydraulic lift. I'm curious to see what the others say.

Do not lick 220V. That's all I really know about house wiring. Now if we want to talk about 12V, then I know things.

Anybody know where I can buy tire size 27 8.50. 15 for my 1054 wheel horse Yes I look in for bite this 1054 has a front end loader on it add pic of it