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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/09/2019 in Posts
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14 pointsI picked up this 1944 Farmall B with a Henderson loader Saturday. It runs good, but the starter switch, even the new one, isn't making contact with the lug on the starter. I can fix that, with a couple of solutions, but for now, I'm just putting a wrench between the plunger on the switch and the arm that pushes against the plunger. Anyways, here are the pictures plus a video the seller sent me before I bought the tractor.
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8 pointsIt is funny how an individual can be oblivious to another model of GT until he or she has an occasion to own one. I recently picked up a 953 and a 1054 in a package deal. The 953 has been on my radar for about 2 and a half years since Dad got one. However, I haven’t studied the 1054 at all but since I own one now, I’ve been trolling the archives last looking for posts concerning them and I was disappointed that there isn’t much out there. So, I’ve decided to start a thread dedicated to the 1054 and 1054A. I would like you guys to post pictures and information about your 1054 that you currently own or used to own. I would like to get any stories about the history of these tractors. I went to the Wheel Horse “Bible” and there was next to no information about it. It is intriguing that the 953 and 1054 were so popular and yet they completely discontinued it never to be revived. The GT-14 was the next Big Wheel Horse and it was hydrostatic drive which was the right decision but I find it fascinating that they didn’t offer it in a GD model. What changes were made from the 1054 to the 1054A? Why was the 1055 a small wheel tractor? I know, I have a lot of questions but there seems to be a lot of mystery surrounding this machine. It is such a beastly departure from the small wheel tractors at the time. I weighed the front cast iron grill surround and it weighs 48# all by itself! To start things off, I purchased my 1054A from a guy who only had owned it for a couple of years. He had purchased it from a long term wheel horse gentleman, who’s health was forcing him to sell it. He had completely rebuilt the rear end but I have no paperwork to verify. I will say that the shifter boot is in new condition. This tractor appears to be mostly original except for the dual electric horns and button on the left side of the dash. Those of you who are well versed in these, please point out anything else you see that doesn’t look original. Serial number is 49349. This tractor runs extremely well for how it looks on the outside. It is my desire to keep it looking pretty much like it sits right now on the outside. I want to clean the fuel system including the tank and replace fuel lines and seal the tank. I want to get a vintage headlight lens for the missing one and also a vintage tail light lens as that is also missing. The steering wheel is in great shape and the dash decals are in good overall Patina condition. The controls need to be cleaned and lubed well and I need to verify the drive belt and clutch spring as it seems really “jumpy”. I’m looking for opinions on the wheels. Should I restore/paint them antique white or leave them with the Patina that they have? I am not planning to change the tires as these are the same exact ones that were on the 875 that I grew up using except for the 15” rim size of the rears. I can honestly say that it is so fun using this tractor and I can’t wait to learn more about this model and see pictures/read stories of your original and restored 1054’s...
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8 pointsTonight after dinner the wife sat down on the couch with her phone. A few minutes later she told me "Go get $175 out of the ATM, grab a trailer, and go to X address". On my way to the bank she called me and told me to grab $300 instead. Got there and this is what I found waiting. So, uh, what was I saying about not buying another WH?
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6 pointsWas originally listed for 700 wouldn't budge lower than 600 . Only problems I found are in the hood stand - steering column bushings are out and the hole is cracked and the bushings in the PTO engagement lever . This tractor wasn't used hard - not a leak or a seep anywhere. transmission oil was clean as a whistle no signs of water .
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6 points
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6 pointsHere's my 1054. I purchased this tractor in Long island NY, it had spent it's entire life caretaking an estate. After the owners passing his family sold off his collection, I wish I could have seen the rest. I love this Tractor.
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5 pointsHi everyone, just picked up this which is a rare find over here across the pond. I am thinking it’s a suburban 400 but I may be wrong? It’s had lots of mods on it but will soon go through a full resto soon. Here are some pictures.
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5 pointsNo, but she has two sisters who need divorces and a single brother who is confused about not being a girl.
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5 points
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5 pointsI've had pretty good luck with oil removal. Even on cast parts which are somewhat porous. Brake clean works wonders. So does a pressure washer. Also I've heard tell of literally cooking a part clean of oils. I've personally used a torch to "empty/cleanse" wheel hubs and other things.
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4 pointsI have decided to fabricate a deck over the winter that will utilize the spindles, hanger and wheels from my stamped 42" rear discharge deck. The last one I made was for a Scag zero turn and it restored new usefulness to that unit. Similar to my last one, my plan is to lay out in CAD, the current size, approximate shape and openings of the current deck. Then I send my drawing to a waterjet service and they cut the layout from 3/16" steel plate. Then I weld the pieces on a welding table. Once finished, I will prep, prime, paint and then transfer my wheels, hanger and spindles to the new deck. I think the rear discharge decks lend themselves well to this because they are symmetrical. Once the layout is completed, the material cost and welding time is the only repetitive cost if I were to make more than one. Anyone interested in these? Any wish list? Obviously, a prototype would be nice to see but I can't take time from mowing to disassemble my weekly mowing equipment until the season is finished. Just tossing out the idea and gauging interest. Thanks.
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4 pointsHere’s mine. Of course this one is getting built for my wife. I like the painted wheels/ patina look. It’s what I am going for on my 953. Here is a picture I picked up off my facebook group. It’s exactly how I want to do mine. I believe he used linseed oil. I have the AMC rules “Johnson paste wax” for mine. I will be painting my wheels also.
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4 pointsYup,953's and 1054's are pretty neat tractors.I had a real nice 953 and sold it a couple yrs ago.Still have a 953 skeleton here in my bone pile.Her's a pic of my 1054 that I've shared here before.I use it as lawn art and flower planter.I offered it to a guy last year for 200 bucks.He offered me 100 because the ignition coil is missing and he said he'd have a hard time finding one??Just as well he didn't buy it.Anyway,have fun with your new toys.
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4 pointsWell I really don't have much to offer to this thread as far as knowledge or information but it's going to be fascinating so I'm going to follow along. My vote on the wheels is to paint them. I don't know why but there's something about an older patina on a tractor that has nice fresh looking wheels that is pretty awesome.
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4 pointsWe know that you saw the pulley; would you mind showing it to us? We may be psychotic, but we aren't psychic!
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4 points
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3 pointsThanks everyone - I was hesitant going 6 bills ... the condition pushed me over ...had to have it, picking it up Friday , ready to get in in that garage and give it the full going over .
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3 points
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3 pointsI tapped mine to 1/2" NPT, used a short nipple and went to 3/4" pipe. It threads easily and the smaller nipple won't harm a thing. Make sure you take precautions to keep shaving out of the engine.
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3 pointsSeems as though I've read somewhere about that work horse name. Maybe wheel horse wanted to use it but got in trouble because it was too close to a Canadian tractor brand??? Am I dreaming this up? Maybe I'm inhaling too much regal red?
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3 points
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3 pointsNo... not customs... the originals. Jim posted his in this thread years ago.
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3 pointsYou may be over worrying about this unbalanced issue. You engine weighs 178 lbs abut 48 more than a magnum 18 or KT17 All the engines have cast iron flywheels of similar size that would hang out over the side.. The weight difference is in the block which pretty much sits over your frame. The blocks are all essentially the some width. The Magnum /KT measures 13.39 inches (per manual) I measured the K532 on my d200 from air shroud to engine end plate about 13.5."
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3 pointsI made the 1054 work Horse decals years ago at the request of a customer and just assumed he was knowledgeable on those tractors as of course at that time I didn't know a 1054 from a B-80. Would be awesome to find out the real story on them. I will happily mail you a pair of Wheel Horse 1054 decals Sparky. Let me know Also my opinion of treating the tins with oil rub may be in error but once the oil penetrates the metal you can not get decals or paint to stick even after sandblasting. So if that is true it is kind of like getting a tattoo. Make sure it is what you want. Has anyone had experience repainting a hood that has previously been given the oil treatment?
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3 pointsNot sure about this for sure, but didn’t one of the years they have Work Horse decals on the hood? I don’t have to many pics of mine on my phone, it’s obviously a repaint and I did my rims completely different, but Terry sold me a set of Work Horse decals. Somebody here like @953 nut might know if there is any truth to it.
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3 pointsThanks Eric for chiming in and your thoughts on the wheels. I have always liked that look too but I’m curious what people’s opinions are concerning this. I also need to contact @Vinylguy to see if he can create a 1054 decal that looks weathered yet readable. I’m disappointed that neither hood decal and grill decal is gone.
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3 pointsAWESOME...is really the only word that comes to mind. Since the tractor isn’t at my house, I can’t measure for you at this time but I would say that they are 1-1.5” deep lugs. However, the pattern doesn’t make for a clunky ride when on solid surface. I definitely recommend them for any Big Wheel guy that wants a tractor look with lots of bite at a decent price. Oh yea...if you are prone to wrapping your fingers around the fender while driving, I wouldn’t recommend this size tire on your tractor Essentially, I feel that they look good from any angle. More importantly, they work great!
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3 pointsThanks guys! Yes, interlock kit has been ordered. I started to make my own, but it seemed like reinventing the wheel... 953, I bought a 10 gauge cable from Harbor Freight this morning. It has the L14-30 twist lock plug and receptacle that match the generator and recessed plug that should be here tomorrow. Danny
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3 pointsIll take some more pics next Saturday . Here's on from one of the most complete operations we've found . It's in a different location and I'm pretty sure I posted this one before ...maybe not
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2 points
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2 pointsMy main grass cutter is a 520h with 355 hrs. Rotated between a 314h 42” deck, classic gt 42” deck, Kubota bx1500 w 54” deck, and the 520h 48” deck. The 520h is by far the smoothest and most effective of the group for my rocky clay weed yard.
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2 pointsVery interesting project. After reading this whole thread I was wondering if maybe boxing the frame and adding a couple of cross supports between the rails would work. Good practice for welding and minimizing frame twist. Added weight would also be helpful. Jay
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2 pointsIf you mean pulleys you can change size on quickly, by replacing the pulley part, and keeping the axle locking part, then yeah. I run those with great success. They are called taper lock, and they are fairly cheap from surplus center. They come in different designs that don't interchange, so stick with one. Basically you buy a center that fits your axle size, and pick any size pulley part to put on it. It goes on and off fast, and it has a really nice tight fit on the axle, as is squishes the center tight on the axle, eliminating play of any kind. The pulley part and the "hub" part are conical/tapered to fit onto each other. The design is also self centering, so you get a pulley that runs very true, if they are made right. Dont know if im supposed to post a link, but here goes. Should it get deleted, go to surplus centers www, and look at pulleys. https://www.surpluscenter.com/Pulleys-V-Belts/Split-Taper-Bushed-Bore-Pulleys-Hubs/ This is a few shots for you to see if that's what you are looking for
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2 pointsThat Sundstrand tag has 90-1136 on it. It should read 90-2062 as the GT-14 only used that unit. What's more, I can see the HYDRO MOTOR attached to the side which is the 2nd giveaway that you are dealing with a substitute power unit. The GT-14 came with Sundstrand Hydro-Gear 90-2062, as I mentioned. Some prior owner has swapped out the original unit and put the bigger GT-14 Drive Pulley on it.. In any case, that leaky trans will need fixin' ....Tough part is getting sheet metal out of the way, then getting the hubs off. On SOME models, you MAY be able to SPLIT the trans open by removing the 5 or 6 bolts. Spread the cases far apart as possible, then reach in with long wrenches and remove the 4 (8-pinion) or 5 (10-pinion) differential bolts. Then you can remove the internal clips and pull axles out...with hub still on.
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2 pointsThis photo from the post Jason attached speaks volumes, weathered original, looking good. I always figured the ad for the 1965 models did show the 1054 Wheel Horse decal, but upon closer examination I do think it is "WORK HORSE"
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2 pointsto all of the members that replied on the issue i had with the tractor ;i want to thank you ; it seems that a cotter pin busted off that holds that item on the back side of the idle pulley ; so it wasn't a pulley which is great ; again thanks so much
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2 pointsI'll never sell it in my life time or will ever be worried about resell just want them to enjoy it. It was their grandpa's and he got it new as a kid. how much would it be worth?
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2 pointsThe answer to that “ how many tractors does one man need” is just one more!!!!!,
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2 pointsI think it is the other way round. if you turn a rear wheel and the other turns in the same direction then you have a limited slip 10 pinion. If the other wheel turns the opposite direction it is an open differential 8 pinion type.
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2 points
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2 pointsI didn't take a whole lot, but here's a few other things I thought were cool. I did find a nice looking Cub Cadet 129 there in the flea market, but I thought their price was high.
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2 pointsAnybody know where I can buy tire size 27 8.50. 15 for my 1054 wheel horse Yes I look in for bite this 1054 has a front end loader on it add pic of it
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