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The Moorhens on the ponds by us, have not had much success raising young this year. The first nest, open to view, containing 8 eggs got robbed by crows. The second nest was built to low down and got flooded. The third nest built higher up and more concealed, looks like being more successful. It's directionally opposite the decking over looking the pond. I've been keeping a watch on it and the last few days there's been more activity by the parent birds. Had me thinking some chicks had hatched. This morning got some photo's.  I can only make out three chicks, so more could be further back. 12 bore is at the ready for any visiting crows

Thought I would share a video of my 95 520H mowing some tall grass on the steep hill next to my house... @PeacemakerJack , @WHX24 here you can see the traction of the Lawn Trac R1s on damp grass and a steep hill enjoy hopefully my bouncy vid doesn't give anyone vertigo lol... Picture after the mowing was done... Plus that Onan singing a sweet tune. 20190826_182107.mp4

Had a play with this 1980's MF 525 combine this afternoon. Not been run for around 10yrs at least and sitting with a flat tyre. Of course the flat had to be up against the wall and the combine leaning against it. I'm under there trying to blow the tyre up, with the compressor we brought down from the main farm. Luck was with us and the tyre inflated and stayed up. Next job was to see if it would start. New battery fitted and after some whirling, priming, fiddling and more whirling, the Perkins 3ltr something burst into life. So far so good. Now to move it. First we had to move the 1970's, I think it is, IH digger. That started with no problem. Always does with a squirt of Easy Start. It's always need Easy Start as long as I can remember. Back to the combine and it refused to move. Left hand wheel made an effort, but the right hand one refused to budge. Brakes seized was the first thought. But it had been left with the brakes of. Now I know nothing about these things, but weighing up the axle and hubs etc I came to the conclusion, due to no centre differential, the hubs are hydraulic driven. Back at the main farm, I had a look at an operators manual. This proved my suspicion. The wheels are hydraulically driven. But there was no info on stripping them. So my friend is going to get in touch with an agricultural fitter he sometimes uses.

Boy...it looks good to see the heart back in the pirate! It took about 5 hours to get it in place and plumbed up. I’m still not happy with the choke cable operation and may have to run a new cable as the angle and operation isn’t smooth at all. Thanks Dan/Kevin for the suggestion on necking down the exhaust. That CC muffler sure quiets this tractor down a lot which will make it great for mowing, blowing, tilling, maybe even plowing at Jim’s in the sandy soil. How COOL would it be to see video this fall of Zach plowing at Jim’s by himself! This tractor is big but completely manageable for a little dude if he/she is strong enough to turn the wheel. Everything is within reach and easy to operate! Still got to hook up the PTO and do a little more with the wiring to really have it ready for regular use. We did get it running though! It took a little while to get fuel in the whole system but then it started and ran really well. Look at the big grin on this guys face. We would’ve taken it for a little drive but it was pouring rain. Maybe tomorrow... Note the .25” clearance above the engine to the strut. It works but very close. Not so lucky with the hood though...

My C-145 said good by to it's busted up plastic fenders, and hello to a set of more respectable steel fenders with matching patina.

Bingo

Core drilling is the way to go. Wet core drill with the proper drill and bit is the best but it can be done dry too. Makes a nice clean round hole You can rent a wet core hand drill and proper size bit. Tile is no problem with a core drill but it's slow. That stuff is hard. I core drill concrete, brick, block, tile every day so if you have any questions about doing it let me know.

So this will be my “build” thread for this little tractor. So far I’ve managed to install a way too small set of Amazon special Ag tires, install a new gas cap/gauge, new tail lights are here but not installed, and I ordered a way too big air filter. I previously had a 84 GT1800 Work Horse. The motor failed and the tractor was junked. However I found it mostly intact and am going to retrieve it for a parts tractor.

Pulled the little Lawn Ranger out of the dark recesses of the barn this weekend. Had it started on the 3rd pull after putting in fresh gas in the empty tank. Hadn't been started in 2 years. I must have gotten some looks while I was mowing the lawn lol. This old Tall guy on that small tractor.

Maybe this pic...

B hind tiller..... or a push reel mower for the Missus!

I bought my first wheel horse it's a 80 B112 and I'm having a hard time finding the belt to engage the blades. I know these are great machines my father inlaw had a few before he passed.

Not so sure about the fun part. Getting a little past my sell by date for climbing over and under machinery.

i LOOOKED AT MY SNOW PLOW,,,,,,, ,AND WAS THINKING ABOUT MOUNTING THOSE WINTER REAR RIMS WITH INNER AND OUTTER WEIGHTS,,,, SNOW CHAINS ALREADY MOUNTED ,,,,,,,,,,, YOU HAVE NO IDEA....

Personally, when it gets below 40°, I hibernate...

Got this tractor off a good friend who knew I had an interest. Unsure of year, possibly an 86. 700 Eaton (bad news, but works), 12 horse Kohler (my first Kohler, good!) rotting paint, came with a small mowing deck and a snow blade.

Whilst your here pick out a hood!

The fenders came with the C-101 that I picked up Sunday. Don't worry about your fender supply, I'm thinkin' that a set of 520 fenders might look even better on it.

It would be a slow process, but a series of drilled holes around the circumference of the thimble you want to use would help keep the damage to a minimum so that you could then chisel out the hole to insert the thimble. Of course depending on the thickness of the block would make for the length of the bit you would need. An SDS drill or a rotary hammer would also make a big difference.

Fully charged battery should be 12.6 volts. With engine running should be between 13.5 and about 14.5. If voltage while running is the same as off then do this quick test. Take a small wire hook one end to a good ground and the other touch to the F (field) terminal on the generator. You may hear the engine slow a bit and the voltage should go up to about 14. If it does your problem is in the voltage regulator. if there is no improvement then the problem is most likely with in the generator itself (Charging field coil) La batería completamente cargada debe ser de 12,6 voltios. Con el motor en marcha debe estar entre 13.5 y aproximadamente 14.5. Si el voltaje durante el funcionamiento es el mismo que apagado, haga esta prueba rápida. Tome un pequeño gancho de alambre de un extremo a una buena tierra y el otro toque al terminal F (campo) en el generador. Es posible que escuche que el motor se desacelera un poco y el voltaje debería subir a aproximadamente 14. Si lo hace, su problema está en el regulador de voltaje. si no hay mejora, entonces el problema es más probable con el generador en sí (bobina de campo de carga)

Hello all, You guys probably saw my post about the minty 15/38 I picked up. I liked it for a "little guy" but really didnt know what I was going to do with it. Offered it to a few older members that might appreciate the step thru design but they all declined. Then today... one of the guys at work was saying his grand daughter likes to drive his J.D. garden tractor (???? model)... so he went out and bought a used second J.D. 130 for her but it was too big. It has a 23 Kohler, 48" deck and a Tough Torg "h.d." model 57 hydro. He said he wasnt into it for much ($400)... so I started thinking and offered the 15/38 as a straight up trade and he took it. Introducing our latest member to realise ANY Wheel Horse beats a J.D.!! Lol... Her name is Macy and shes gonna be 6 soon... Grandpa John is going to pull deck off and put a block on brake pedal. I think it went to the right home where it will bring her a ton of happy seat time. Tony Sorry @wallfish @Sparky you dont get to see Tony driving it at Zagray... but maybe you'll see Macy

This is a good question and deserves consideration --- I have had more than one bearing failure because of running dry, despite the cavity being packed with grease. Besides being a mess to clean up (and waste of a LOT of grease) its just too hard to determine when enough is enough. I've had other tractors with sealed bearings and they lasted as long as - or maybe longer - than unsealed, so several years ago I started using sealed --- working great so far! Along with that I have even started using sealed in the deck spindles, no problems there either.

The C-160 definitely appears to be a popular model among the Members,it reminds me of a 520-H with simplified wiring and no forward swept axle, a very stout machine when life was simpler.

Because Zach isn’t old enough to have his own account yet...I’m posting this one for him...but it is a BIG ONE. He got to drive his GT-14 named “Blackbeard” for the very first time today—SOLO! He was so stoked! He has owned it for three full years but it has been too tired to do much for the last two years. We just finished repowering it with a monster Magnum 16 and he loves it. Just like that and he was gone to investigate the back acreage! What’s better than a boy and his horse?

Come get it then.... the ant infested ungly seat has to go with them tho! All yours for free if you have the stones to sit on the seat! ...Where's my camera! 0

I bet Trina could do this Eric. When she does...we want a video.

Maybe they're concerned about the sudden stop at the end of the ride.

jeez John it's too bad you're headed south next weekend instead of up here to Maine like you SHOULD be. I'd much rather throw money at you than someone I don't know. John to Mrs 'fish: Sorry I can't go to Jersey. Gotta work. In Maine. Yepp.

I also needed one made. I have a steel fabricating shop near me, they made an exact duplicate for $25

looks like 1985. Nice tractor👍

With creative use of a prybar and a wrench and a crescent hammer, it’s free! I ground the welds on the bottom flush in hopes I can clamp it to the bench and heat it enough to straighten it out.

I love this question, I've dreamed it many times! When my family was a dealer we probably sold more C125-8s than all of the other ones. I loved this tractor back then (it was easy to sell, it was just the right size for most folks), and still do, so my choice for my needs would be a C125-8 spd or just to make sure I had enough power the C145-8. I have a C85 with a snow and some dirt plow and C105 with a 36" rear mower and they've done all kinds of work for me, especially the 8hp, I have beaten the heck out of that thing and it still goes! That's what I've ended up with (used ones I've found) and made do with those, but have always wished for "MORE POWER!" Go Black Hoods! The biggest thing I had wished for on these was a true locking rear end, I've always needed more traction, so it is time for a confession! I've recently gone to the dark side and added a BX2380 4x4 with a locking rear and FEL to our small fleet C-85

today , i adjusted back the choke cable on the magnum 12 , with walborough carb, did not like the not as quick start,as my 2 other magnums.always thought the choke butterfly was not fully seated with lever. loosing cable clamp and moving cable down about 1/2" varifed a slightly tighter butterfly seal . result was instant starting like my other magnums. re lubed choke cable and all linkage , for the start i want. also repacked my front wheel bearings , with LUCAS RED AND TACKY GREASE, old school , grease in palm and pull bearing through, i like the lucas grease with a very tacky adhesion to bearings, also in my mower decks, 550 drop point , quiet and very smooth. also added a few machine washers on wheels, and greased weight free front axel. just snooping around , lubed the pto lever to engine mount area, keeping it smooth. rechecked my battery tender wire in on the battery , letting me quick plug in as weather changes. all three of my horses share , what works and that keeps it simple , for reliability , and regular use. just basic stuff for me , but it works, pete

Send me that M16 shroud and I’ll fix it for you.

Will likely fit but that is just a guess. The 6-9623 used a 5109 42" blade including the cutting edge and nla. 5109 was replaced by 109593 blade which was replaced by 78-1330-01 and still available from Toro but is now 48" wide. plus cutting edge 109596 which was replaced by 93-1612-03 and still available from Toro. These parts fit the 2012 blade sold for the long frame tractors. You should be able to find a used blade and save some $'s. Post an add in the classifieds here with your location because shipping could be a killer. Garry

How close is that hood to a 953 hood? I have a spare that's already been cut. Get that seat off and put an old pos on for temp. That original looks too nice to be beating up on a plow field! That a Sportster sittin next to old yeller?

You could have almost bailed that!!

So are we going to have to watch you parading around Zags on a John Deere??

Straight for the heavy artillery...

That when I come alive!!!!! Anything between about freezing and 60 or so. Lovely. Thanks everyone for your local notions. Fascinating to read the differences. Keep em coming...

He had that thing for awhile with just the standard pepper shaker muffler and he was buggin me nonstop about getting a stack on it! Now—it has to have tires like Skittles on the back. He’s into it for sure. Regarding the hood—I’ll take some pics of the situation tomorrow and post them. I have a spare hood at my disposal but I have to figure out what to do with it—belly it out around the engine or cut the edge to clear...it comes down about .75” lower than the strut. Not much, but enough to cause problems.

Congrats on the success, Josh and Zach! How bad does the hood hit? I wouldn’t think the sheet metal drops too far below the strut... I’m just tossing out ideas, could you shim the grille up 1/8-1/4” to help, or is it in the back?

I made one for a that had a Predator heart transplant and standard guard wouldn't fit. I ran a piece of angle iron at the top and and another at the bottom and welded a piece of 18 gauge to it as a cover.

Way to take a bullet for the team Tony.

Yes, considering the premise...you're exactly right Richard. The idea that any Horse-aholic would walk back in history, into a W-H dealership with unlimited funds, and leave there with only two tractors is simply a ridiculous notion. AIn't gonna happen, and you darn well know it.

@posifour11 I refrained from looking at this thread, in fear of a Cher moment! Though I’m with Craig, I can’t imagine only picking two, I would go for the cool factor of a Senior (lever steer or not) and an RJ-35. Also a 953, 1045, 502, and a Raider 12 most likely. Plus a 701, another 502, 1054, GT-14, C-160, and anything else I could get on the truck in less than 20 trips. They’d need to be decked out with chains, ground engaging attachments and a @buckrancher stainless deck for each.

When I can crawl into bed and it is finally dark out.

Take a two week vacation on the coast and walk barefoot in the salty surf for a couple hours every day. It clears your toenails and your mind. Worked or me. Seriously, I also am on cholesterol meds and can not take the internal meds to cure the fungus. I have tried all the over the counter acids, and have found salt water soaking does better. The problem is finding the time to soakem, Hence, the beach vacation. Oh, BTW, we do not want pictures.

Put my new decals on that I got from redoyourhorse.