Leaderboard

Now need to get the mower and snowblower ready...🤖

'64 C-50 that just popped up local here on C/L... maybe my new daily driver???

I grew up with 2 types of cars in my childhood, mustangs and British sports cars. the old man has had this 66 tr4a for about 20 years. we decided to start advertising it and it sell off. it's barely been driven in the last 10 years. we had alot of intrest mainly from younger couples looking for a weekend car. unfortunately they know nothing about these type of cars and what's involved maintaining them. British sports cars are whole different education. so this week after some more thought we decided let's keep it for now and fix everything that it needs and at least drive it. this is a great car to drive on back roads. it's been awhile since I drove it. so as we move along I will keep this post updated and find some way to make it wheelhorse related. I know there's a few members on the other side of Atlantic.

Two RJ35's left me yesterday, but they are staying in The Prairie State. Sold to one heck of a good guy! I can't imagine what these are gonna look like when he's done working his magic on them. Good to see you Denny @dclarke ! Steve

No sense having 'em if your afraid to use 'em. Besides muddy tires look good next to shiny paint. I think that @WHX24 forgot that the act of restore 'em & work 'em was repeated again this year with Radpferd. @pullstart, Hot Wheels is looking great. Anxious to see him pulling a plow again.

What else were they built for, right?

Oooooh shiney! Ready for work!

Had to get your too scents in Jim. One of the best mechanical engineers I ever met had trouble spelling "it".

I had a 73 TR6 for almost 30 years... they don't call Lucas "the prince of darkness" for nothing! mine had an occasional issue where all the lights would go out... then they would randomly come back. lol

From the patent number learned what this unusually brass cup was used for. E. W. ROBERTS. PRIMING CUP. APPLlCATlON FILED JUNE 1, 1915. Patented Aug. 8, 1916.

They didn't teach spelling back when I went to school. They just gave us a list of word and gave a test on them every morning. I could some times get a passing grade by Friday.

Champion even made a spark plug that would accept a priming cup. I would have thought a wet plug would have made it more difficult to start the engine.

When he pulled up with that big trailer I was pretty excited and I was working him pretty hard trying to get him to leave with more stuff. Although, I suspect he'll be back someday for a certain two-wheeler! I've got another tractor that's supposed to be headed to Wisconsin soon, so we are working on populating all those winter wonderland states. Steve

If you are thinking about getting them from here https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/index.html you would need either Kit # 1 or Kit # 2. Kit # 2 is the same as #1 except it includes a pair of 1533 bearings which you may or may not need. You will need to open the transmission up first to determine that. If in doubt about what to order its best you call Lowell, the proprietor of that site, and he will get you on the right path. His phone number is on his contact us page. If you decide to source your own bearing & seals here is a crib sheet that Steve put together listing the required seals and bearings. UNI DRIVE TRANS 2.pdf

question , is the oil in the engine , look like a milky slime? if so the wrong oil has been used, these engines require a flat tappet oil, for cleaning and wear protection, rotella 30 wt , diesel is what you want , i have recovered a few engines with your problems. the combo of a fuel adjustment problem only adds to it. use stabil gas treatment in your fuel , to help clean it out. once its running its important to heat it up thoroughly to let you dump out that oil. that carb might clean out with the air cleaner removed and your hand over the intake , to make it suck out the debris. this is kind of a regular issue with an engine that has not had regular service. took me a number of hot oil changes , and carb clean outs to finally get it running well. good luck with it, pete

Craig, I waited 'til almost dark so I wouldn't get caught. lol

The M37 and M274 are mine the M35 belongs to the kid down the hill

Nice Tr4. We had a '75 Triumph Spitfire 1500 a few years back. Had a few BSA's and a couple of 650 Bonnies plus an assortment of around 40 other bikes.

I am tinkering with my favorite 953, Hot Wheels tonight. I tweaked the choke a bit to help with cold starts... but now that it’s warm I have to wait until tomorrow to see if I did accomplish anything... and the governor seemed to let it run away a bit once in a while, so I double checked that too. All seems good enough for who it’s for!

On vacation using the old laptop with a questionable keyboard........ Oh well, baking is good too.

definitely looking forward to getting it back to a point where it can be driven to shows. it still runs and drives but needs attention. first items on the list are to rebuild front brake calipers and get the twin su carbs back in adjustment and check the timing. car runs really rich then replace the exhaust system. this car is amazingly solid with no major rust damage on the body, floors or frame, which was another factor to keep it. the interior will need the seats redone which I will do over the winter, and swap in a new dash pad. it's alot of small tasks, I am sure the list will grow.

You've probably read and other places that I'm looking into shoehorning a Kohler 23 horse twin into a C Series. I'm going to have to make some height adjustments to the hood as you did on that tractor. I'll be fine tooth combing that thread again and I may reach out to you at some point in the next few months for advice if it's okay.

The latch lever is shorter on the newer mid mounts...about 1/2 that length. The other difference I notice is your deck is further forward. The swinging cross bar is normally nearly vertical when the forked tab is hooked on the correct rod. Yours is slanted to the rear which pushes the deck forward.

Jim, I've been trying to downsize my herd but believe me I could of filled the trailer with no problem. Steve has some Nice tractors..... I guess my idea of downsizing is buying smaller tractors.

I wish I could, Jason. Just a little "light" in the wallet right now though.

Those look like some true gems Steve! @dclarke Denny... leave 'em on the trailer and head north. Le Sueur is this weekend. Come on up!

Hay, hay, let's not be picking on the deuce, I've had mine up to about 62, on a down hill and good tailwind! C-85

if you're sitting in the seat it's heated. If you're holding the steering wheel, that will be heated as well. So I'm going to say yes. They both work perfectly fine.

I wonder if the heated seat and steering wheel still operate correctly?

I don't know Jim.... i think I'd put my duckets on a 653... if it was a 753 i believe the Kohler would still be in it!

I thought WH stopped making Suburbans in the 60s.

@Charley No need to be afraid of splitting the tranny if need be, @stevasaurus has some great video's on rebuilding a transmission. Here is a link. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0WxpigBM-CFt3jm0aCxvxw If you should need any parts for your tranny @wheelhorseman has almost any thing that you may need. Here is a link for his on line store.https://www.wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/transmissions.html

Lookin more like a 753 fellas. Drain that transmission and refill with kerosene or diesel. Refill through the shift hole and get plenty in. Tip the front up to get all water out you can when draining. Like to tell you run it with the cleaner (diesel) in but that's probably not possible at this stage. No harm if it sets with cleaner in it. Main thing is to get the water out and some kind of petroleum product in. Things check out down the road here you may not have to split the tranny.

For a 2011 Suburban?

Might have been sold for tool a grinder mount.The ones I have used were metal with a Borazon or Carbide grinding surface.That style of wheel was also used on stationary valve grinders.Put a metal rod in the mounting hole and tap the disk lightly with a metal object.If it doesn't ring slightly, junk them.

This is one of the things that make opening the trans hard. If it moves at all, you can heat, and soak (like PB blaster, candle wax, etc) and keep working it. File the ends so there are no burrs...an air hammer with a punch is a good option. I have also used a Sawsall to cut the 1/2" soft steel in between the hitch and the trans to get to where you can pound it out. You can buy the 1/2" steel at Ace or Tractor Supply to make a new pin. Patience and a case of beer go a long way. There is a groove on each end of the pin that should hold a 1/2" "C" clip to hold the pin in place.

It is a primer cup for Ford Model T's. You open the petcock and drop a drop of fuel down that goes into the cylinder. Close the petcock then crank the engine. Designed to ease starting on cold mornings. Engine most likely had 4 plugs.

Beast! That’s what those D series tractors are to me!

I think it's pretty awesome that you repair and clean something up and then immediately put it to work. Sounds like something Trina and I would do.

If it has not been done for a number of years and you are burning gasoline with ethanol in it, it's time to do some service work on the fuel system at the very least. Replace the lines. Clean out the carburetor and put new gaskets in it. General tune-up type stuff. Pete raises some great points above. In any situation with any mechanical device it's important to make sure that the maintenance is done before you start troubleshooting. Often the maintenance alone will end your troubleshooting.

Don't use a knife to scrape that belt guard sticker...use acetone with a rag. dampen cloth and rub gently. The acetone will soften the paint and rub off...it will not ruin the sticker. Use this manual...Section II to open and get into your #5025 transmission. Use my videos in conjunction with the manual. While this is not your transmission, it is close enough to help walk you through the process.

That C-50 is cool and it is the correct colors

That is right gorgeous Craig.

Water does drain profusely out of the end of the axle, Im assuming axle seals? I take it ill be splitting the tranny to replace them. I would feel better splitting it and knowing there isnt anything foriegn like a dog set screw in there.

'Nother thought her Charley get the rear end in the air and see if the rear axles "wiggle" in the outboard axle housing or if the axle seals are leaking profusely. If they do you will be splitting the tranny. Like Dan says no big deal we can walk you thru it. Good pics from Craig above... try those and see if you can get it to go thru gears.

again i wanted to mentioned that i posted a tractor i bought on sunday as i was told by the seller that it is 1968 charger 12 but after searching the vin number it is a 1971 ;but still for the price i couldn't see it go to the scrap yard ;i was able to clean the hub caps today and they really came out nice compared to the pictures i posted in my last post ;i used some brasso and some elbow grease ;what a difference ;they shine like new ;now to get a new key switch as the key i have will not work as i think part of the key is busted inside ;no big thing really ;in time the old horse will look nice ;anyways check out the pictures ;

In this big religious festival where my father lives, the fishermen and families decorate streets with colored salt upon which the religious parade goes through . They start at 9 PM and work the whole night so it’s ready next morning.

Craig never should post here. He only buys not sell ...