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In this big religious festival where my father lives, the fishermen and families decorate streets with colored salt upon which the religious parade goes through . They start at 9 PM and work the whole night so it’s ready next morning.

It’s tough enough keeping the 345 usual posters in line

again i wanted to mentioned that i posted a tractor i bought on sunday as i was told by the seller that it is 1968 charger 12 but after searching the vin number it is a 1971 ;but still for the price i couldn't see it go to the scrap yard ;i was able to clean the hub caps today and they really came out nice compared to the pictures i posted in my last post ;i used some brasso and some elbow grease ;what a difference ;they shine like new ;now to get a new key switch as the key i have will not work as i think part of the key is busted inside ;no big thing really ;in time the old horse will look nice ;anyways check out the pictures ;

I was out of town for a week doing a wedding for a former youth group student. We had a great time in the Smokey mountains but now that we are home, Zach wants to see some more progress on Blackbeard. One of the things that always amazes me is the small differences in the different spec numbers for the Kohler K series engines. I have catalogued a bunch of them between the Factory K321 from Blackbeard and the new K341 (M16) engine on its way in. I’ll lay these out as we begin the install... First job when I got home was to remove the pulleys. The one on the factory engine came out without much fanfare. I had soaked the set screws with deep creep for a couple of weeks and those broke free fairly easy. It didn’t take much pressure to slide the drive pulley off. This pulley however was a HUGE pain in the neck...mainly because I had no idea how it was on there. Once I figured it out, it came off in a minute or two. It has a collar that slides directly over the crankshaft with a key way cut in it and it is split, the quadruple pulley (outer part)has a tapered hole in the middle that is wedged over top of inner part. The inner part has two threaded holes in the lip and two larger holes in the lip. The larger holes line up with threaded holes in the outer pulley assembly. I started (admission of my ignorance) by trying to pull the inner part out not knowing that the harder I pulled the tighter it was getting. Then I tried to pull the whole works off at once—FAIL! When I was about to give up for the night, my tenacity got the best of me. I took two short 1/4” bolts and threaded them into the the lip of the inner part. Using a Rachet, the little bolts pushed again the outer pulley towards the engine block, away from the taper. Once loose, it slid free. Then I put a pulley puller on the end of the shaft using two longer 1/4” bolts to pull the inner hub off. Eureka! The solution presents itself. For those of you that have dealt with these many times, don’t laugh too hard. For those of you who haven’t, hopefully I have saved you some future headaches Next up was preparing the block and tins for painting. I had to change the crankcase breather because the one on the M16 was directly plumbed to the aircleaner housing. I took one off an old parts motor that I had laying around. I also noticed that the exhaust port in 1 1/4” instead of 1” like on the K321! So, I picked up some pipe to thread into the block and a 45 degree elbow. Threaded those in a prepared them for paint. However, the only way Zach’s existing stack will work on here is to neck the exhaust down to 1”. What do you guys think? Something tells me that the factory wanted that engine to flow more and hence the larger pipe. I don’t want to restrict it and cause an undue heat issue. Otherwise, I’ll have to look up Jim Kemp and have him make a custom one for Blackbeard. If it has a chrome tip and a black body...Zach would be stoked. I don’t want it too loud since this will be a regular use, garden, mower, blower tractor but Zach loves his stack! I also plumbed the outlet for the oil drain with 3/4” pipe. I want to make it easy to keep fresh “liquid gold” in this monster that doesn’t have pressure lube or an oil filter. Then it was time to clean parts, tape off, and prime... Does anyone out there have a decent condition Chrome aircleaner cover off of a Magnum 18 in your parts stash that you’d be willing to sell us? I have this image in my mind of that CHROME air cleaner sticking off the side of the engine in the factory location of the skinny one that was used. I want the extra breathing capacity of the deep dish air cleaner for sure. I can put a regular painted one on but I think Zach would love the extra “bling”! Then it was time to lay down the black... It isn’t a paint job up to @Achto’s standards , but it looks nice nonetheless and will be a good centerpiece to the whole machine. I asked Zach if he wanted it red and he said that he wanted it to stay black. Next up...assembly. Then I need to contact @Vinylguy about some custom stickers!😜. Once we know we have a runner, the sheet metal will get some fresh red to protect it for the next decade or so...

well guys it is true collecting these find old horses is a disease as i have been chatting with a guy from the Kansas city Kansas area CORRECTION HERE according to the vin numbers 1-0400-6 it is a 1971 not a 1968 as i mentioned it is a charger 12 automatic for sale for 200.00 ' and i told my shelf no more as 7 is enough ;so yesterday i took the ride from which is in the Springfield mo area to his home ;well lets be real here as a 2 plus hour drive one way and not bring it back would be really foolish ;plus the seller told me if it didn't sell off to the junk yard so on the back of the truck it went ;heck i figure if any thing the original 2 piece seat and the hub caps were worth the price ;plus all of the wheel horse catalogs; yes it does need some tinkering such as a battery as i tried today to charge it today checked the points and the plug which were good ;then i tried the key that didn't come with it but i have spares for a kohler .it wouldn't fit plus i tried the key for my charger 10 which is the Tecumseh motor still wouldn't work so i think the key is busted off inside which another key switch will work'the seller told me it hasn't been started in over 2 years ;but i noticed the switch for the electric clutch is as well busted so how can he say it works or even runs with out the key to start it ;the choke cable and the throttle need to be changed as froze up ;but again i figure for the price i didn't go wrong ;the caps will clean up ;though i am not sure if want to sell them yet ;anyways here are the pictures of my horse that makes 8 now ;oh the deck is really junk but the wheels and rollers come in handy plus the spindles if they are good ;check it out ; and i forgot to mention that all of the tin is there as well ;the foot rest;side cover for the belt and the motor tins ;

With any engine swap your goal should be to have the crank shaft be right where the old one was so the drive system will work properly.

Over 24,000 have joined to date and about 350 are here on an average day. Lots of people come here for one specific item they want to sell and others, like me, seeking answers to a question and then they find out how many great people are here and stick around.

This started in ‘12 or ‘13.. it’s been a long time!! Ahh well!!👍 it was green paint with yellow wheels!!, and I could NOT stand a wheel horse to look like that. It was started by the key switch, (no selenoid).. and I re wired the whole thing. This year, I have bought things off eBay.. selenoid, key switch and carb rebuild kit. And stuff I have not found... which is the choke bracket!! Here’s the pictures I have so far.

Removing a steering wheel on a Wheelhorse is a restoration "right of passage". When you succeed you get the special secret decoder ring. good luck, and as others have indicated lots of penetrating oil, wiggling, shaking and even more patience.

I resemble that remark...

Block the front wheels and twist the steering wheel left and right with a reasonable amount of force.

I enjoy the site, it's one of last forum based tractor sites that's still around. glad to see a strong membership and hopefully it's around for a few more years. even though it's strictly a wheelhorse based forum I appreciate that I can occasionally post a few "off brand" tractor topics to culture you

@Sparky i was in several Forums (also as moderator) in the past, just the ammount of users has nearly nothing to say. It tells you just one: RedSquare was a interesting place, where it will be worth to be. You don‘t have to agree to each thing anybody says, but you can respect his meaning. Respect can also be to leave it uncommented. My personal experiences shows me, it ain’t the ammount of Members that brings quality into a Forum, it just was the few permanent useful and friendly Guy’s, they help everybody and keep a good, clean and nice speakin together. To have differently meanings is one, but to clear it with mutual respect and with eye level talkin is the essence of a good Forum. In my opinion, that was the reason why RedSquare has such a lot of „still members“. So i wanna use that Thread and thank the Initiators, the Admins, the moderators, and all the Guy‘s who handled with respect for that great Forum, what is far ahead than other Forums. It is more than just a Forum, it feels to me, it is a Place where fella’s and buddy‘s and friends like to stay. Just my 2 cent

Some photos of the homestead in my sleepy little town which is not do sleepy this week since they hold a famous rock concert. @stevasaurus I have here in the homestead my own vineyard and chestnut grove. Sorry about double photos,not easy from phone. View from house The house Walls up to 3 feet thick granite in some places Wine cellar Corn storage Grandpa’s sharpening stone. Need to stand it up again. vineyard Chestnut grove Ice cold water from mine under mountain

I grew up with 2 types of cars in my childhood, mustangs and British sports cars. the old man has had this 66 tr4a for about 20 years. we decided to start advertising it and it sell off. it's barely been driven in the last 10 years. we had alot of intrest mainly from younger couples looking for a weekend car. unfortunately they know nothing about these type of cars and what's involved maintaining them. British sports cars are whole different education. so this week after some more thought we decided let's keep it for now and fix everything that it needs and at least drive it. this is a great car to drive on back roads. it's been awhile since I drove it. so as we move along I will keep this post updated and find some way to make it wheelhorse related. I know there's a few members on the other side of Atlantic.

Hello all, new to the forum. I was giving a old wheel horse and need help identifying model and year so I can find a wire diagram and fix this thing. I did find a serial number but need someone who knows them to tell me what I got. Thanks all

Allen head, screws into that collar in top of your trans... adjust the tension to allow the shifter to pivot through all four gates.

My 854.

Wouldn't have been had you asked! Those are real common in HVAC drives and easy to get off.

Hopefully this one will come home with me tomorrow.

8 = horse power 5 = standard transmission / electric start 4 = the year on the 1960's models. In this case 1964 It is a shame that part of your gas tank is missing.

The baffle that I made for the stack on Radpferd, my 1045 diesel. This was wrapped in fiberglass before installation. The finished product installed on the tractor.

A couple of @Coulter Caleb‘s “Comanche”...

Congratulations RS, pretty impressive if I do say so. Keep up the good work attracting quality members who seem to get along very well.

I don't see us owning any other brand than Wheelhorse at this time unless it is a gift from someone. Trina and I both are very appreciative of the ease of build, maintenance, and repair on these 60s and 70s vintage tractors. Our tractors are here to work and they do that very very well. Both of us however, do also really appreciate the looks and style of several other brands of all sizes. We just don't have the time to participate in more than three or four tractor events per year but when we do it's fun to see what else is out there.

I can truthfully say I met a lot of good friends here including ones who shall remain nameless that got me into collecting, restoring & showing tractors... Yah that hurt the wallet and killed a few brain cells along the way!! ! More than a few of us here that could use a little more culture! Why is it I keep searching sites for the older Bolens now @jabelman? Thanks a lot!

I modified my H press as to be able to slip the whole shebang in it so no more steering wheel removal issues for me. Now to figure out hubs! My bad... Charley!

Removing the pin is a major accomplishment! Just keep adding more penetrating oil.

Burnerman, I just rebuilt a couple decks of my own and found this company to have excellent quality components, as well as customer service. Had a minor issue with one pulley which had some minor flaws and they expedited me another promptly. If you know your part#'s you will aid in the order process. https://phoenix-mfg.com Hope this helps.

My son’s white truck graveyard. Bottom pic is what the regular cab looked like when he got it. Hopefully it’s about to make a comeback. He’s doing an LS swap in it.

I believe my issue was the points, but the funny thing was that it ran great for a few minutes, died, sat for a while, fired back up... like a weak coil would act. I replaced the coil, and it did the same thing. I never touched the points, trying one thing at a time. It fired back up, ran for a few minutes, then died again! I swapped my spare set in and whalla! It worked and I’m back in business!

We just spent about 4 hours cutting wood and clearing brush. We cleared about 250 - 350 feet of path. Almost to the back of the property now. Also cut down a BUNCH of small white pines to give breathing and sun space to the hardwoods. Also cut up a red oak which will be for firewood in a season or two. This section of the path begins back around the white poplar that's laying on the forest floor. Zoom in just above the tractor seat and you can see the pile of oak fire wood. There's a path cut from here to there... Then to the left and around the corner and another couple hundred feet down in... We're almost all the way to the back of the property now. Awesome.

One more day for me....

You forgot one thing... he has halfway decent company like Jim in WI!

I thought WH stopped making Suburbans in the 60s.

Ill be sure to you guys involved... this has been a huge help. You guys are awesome

You mean this one? I believe it now belongs to Jay's @roadapples brother.

Lookin more like a 753 fellas. Drain that transmission and refill with kerosene or diesel. Refill through the shift hole and get plenty in. Tip the front up to get all water out you can when draining. Like to tell you run it with the cleaner (diesel) in but that's probably not possible at this stage. No harm if it sets with cleaner in it. Main thing is to get the water out and some kind of petroleum product in. Things check out down the road here you may not have to split the tranny.

it's got great patina on it to. it should clean up real nice

You need roughly a 1” long dog point set screw to go in that hole on the tranny collar. It needs an Allen wrench style head on it. Also a jam nut for the set screw. Take a tap and clea the holes for the set screw The tranny has shift rails that the shifter moves. Look down into the hole and you shown see a open square on each side. Take a big screw driver and aligh those up to makes a box. On the shifter there is a round collar roughly 2” from the end. That collar has a shallow hole in it that the dog point set screw goes into. So put the shifter into the “box” made by the shift rails and hold it up so that round collar is flush with the top of the tranny and that shallow hole pointed towards the dog point set screw. Gently tighten the set Screw while wiggling the shifter a tiny bit. You are trying to feel the dog point in the hole. When the dog point is in the hole tighten the sew screw till the shifter won’t move then back off a little so it just moves easily but not loosely. Now lock the jam but on the set screw. If your Ace or hardware store doesn’t have a dog point set screw you can grind the threads off the end of one Hope this helps

Josh... a normal sized 4 cylinder car has 1-1/2” exhaust pipe. I bet that Kohler breathing out a 1” pipe won’t be too bad, considering the short length of exhaust compared to a car... great update and welcome back from the south!

Somebody cut the gas tank off, I have a new gas tank and dash for it, I have all winter to get her cleaned up!

Looks like parts of it are from a 1961 701, the rear fenders and brace, the left foot rest, pedal and the steering fan gear.

Eric...I don’t claim to be a guru of Kohler engines, but here is what I have learned over the years of messing with them. The old single cylinder K series motors were THE STANDARD of what a durable, reliable, and buildable small engine should be. The results speak for themselves. Nearly every main line GT company used them for their tractors in the 1960’s and 70’s. Not sayin’ that other brands weren’t good, just that the K series was king at that time. They also had the awesome “commercial” series twins like the one that you are reviving but from what I have read those didn’t end up in very many GT’s (guessing because of the price point). So it was big news when they released the KT-17 opposed twin for mass production in the Cub 82 series and the JD 317. A decent motor but by oiling issues with only about 5psi of oil pressure and insufficient oil passage ways. That fateful release was in the late 1970’s and singlehandedly sent Kohler from the penthouse to the outhouse in many peoples eyes. It went through several revisions which developed into the Magnum opposed twin in the mid 80’s. Magnums were really good motors in my opinion. (a Command that I just installed in a buddies Cub Super a couple of weeks ago) I’m not sure of the exact release date, but I believe it to be around 1994, Kohler introduced the Command V-twin. It is a very durable and stout OHV motor, full pressure lube, spin off oil filter, equally adept to vertical or horizontal applications. They have found a huge market in Zero turns. More importantly, they have found huge favor with the GT puller crowd and have a massive support market for performance upgrade parts. They sound a lot like a Harley at idle and make good power for their size. They were offered in the XI series Wheel Horse but I don’t recall ever seeing them in a Classic series...

I've read the phrase Kohler Command many times but I'm not familiar with the nomenclature of the different series of twin engines over the years. Is that the same size and shape as the 18 horse Kohler twin that Wheelhorse used in the 418 ? If so, maybe you could have someone take measurements or pictures of their own 418? I'll be following along with great interest to see what you come up with. Please do let me know how you solve this. Over the next few months I'm going to be, hopefully, putting a k23 horse into a C Series chassis. I can't get anywhere near the original line up position as @953 nut Richard suggested above because the Kohler single crankshaft is about 1.5" lower than the twin that I have. I'll have to make up my own belt guard or modify one.

@ebinmaine that belongs to one of his friends. He had one just like it, but shortbed, that got hit in the front and totaled. He is cutting the frame and using the bed off that to make this one a shortbed to replace the one he lost. He has a crewcab, shortbed dually that my son welded the frame on that they body dropped. Haven’t seen it in a while though.

All stainless prototype.

@Sparky Do you want some cheese to go with that whine?