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I was looking for a sickel bar for the Wheel Horse but finally gave up. My wife foolishly left me home alone this weekend and there suddenly appeared an ad for a vintage Jari Sickel Bar in nice condition. Hooked up the trailer, stupidly left the Cape on a Fri afternoon and zipped on down to see my new purchase, Looks like it was made by Jari Mower of Mankata Minesota and definitely a 60's 70's pre OSHA vibe but ought to do my small jobs easily.... haven't seen a Wheel Horse sickel attachment in the 200 hundred dollar range so maybe a win for a change. Changed the oil and a first pull start....that's a first !!!! Pics attached.

Hi folks, picked this up not to far from home this morning. Seller had mentioned it needed some carb tweaking, it would idle up, but then not idle down when ya moved the lever back, kinda raced......I thought maybe it just needed a govenor adjustment, but feared it might be an internal govenor problem. Lucky me, as it turned out, the linkage was just kinda wonky, and needed the be persuaded with a pair pliers to allow free movement without getting hung up on itself!! Idles up and down great now, runs like a kitten too!!! Came with the 42 inch deck, plow, some extra blades and pieces parts, and manuals. Fella was asking 400$ for all of it, I end up getting it for 300$. He was very nice and seemed glad it was going to someone that would appreciate it. Anywho, just Sharing.

It's mounted in a receiver hitch. It's clamped to the ax;\le housings and also supported off the top of the transmission. I raised the seat bracket, gastank and fender 1 3/4" to clear the 25" tires. This is the reason for the winch. I could lift it using both hands with out any trouble, but it was almost imposible to get the lift unlatched. This cheap winch from Harbor Freight has to be disconnected from power when not in use as it will drain your battery. I have a long bolt on the ground and take it lose there.

I did a deck lift on a 42" deck on my 312-8. It works as all four tires are three inches taller then the originals. It cuts close to five inches in the top position. That.s 1 1/4" lower then the original hole. There is another hole 3/4" lower I'm not sure I have enough height under the tractor for that one, This picture will show why it works on my 312.

Here is the one I've been looking for to smoke for 2 years. An 8 lb Lake Trout caught Thursday July 25th, 2019. 154 feet of water with a green/blue spoon set down 65 feet on a down rigger. It is the only one we caught all day.

Heading to the Delaware Bay tomorrow for two weeks of crabbing and fishing. The family out grew the 35' Shasta so I sold it last winter and rented a five bedroom beach house for two weeks.

So I walked into a local dealer by me and the owner mentioned to me he was thinking about selling a wheel horse and asked if I would be interested. He said he’s had it for the last 40 plus years and wanted to see it go to a good home. I made him an offer he said he could refuse and I now have another machine in the stable. More pictures to come and hoping to get to tinkering on it soon

Here is a picture of our adopted cat Spot using my main mowing tractor as a cat bed.He adopted us not the other way around. This 416-8 was a much neglected and abused machine.The tires were full of fix a flat,the tie rods were shot,the fan gear and steering shaft were worn out.The hood stand showed dents from where a chain was used to secure it on a landscape trailer.It has been used as a true garden tractor this season.It tilled the garden and dug the potato rows at planting.Next week it will dig the rows with a potato plow.It has over 1400 hrs and shows no signs of wanting to quit.The hood says 414 but the original hood was junk.

Kev, I've got a K-91 that looks to be complete, it spins and has compression. If you willing to pay for the shipping #longway, I'll box it up and send it to you.

Here ya go AMC! And yes i know the belt guard is wrong

That is great Mike, thank you for sharing the follow up to the story. Tell your daughter that I’m proud of her concern for others and to make this sacrifice. Very thoughtful at her age. Well done Dad!!!

I looked at past photos and realized this is my go to.

A friend of mine just drop these off to me today and we were trying to figure out what brand they were. They came off of a wheel horse but I know that they are not wheel horse weights. Oh and by the way they are both the same size one is on the ground and the other one is setting up on a stump.

Not sure but my guess is 50 lbs each. They were not really free. We did a little horse trading you might say!

Trina n her mom spent some time dodging rain drops and moving wood this afternoon. She moved 4 loads with mumma and another 2 herself. The basement is well stocked for fall now.

Paint them red then the are WH weights.

What year do you suppose that is.. or what era? I have this one, but know very little about it. I bought it for project parts at a local auction last year along with a David Bradley. I thought the creative use of pulleys to run the driveshaft to the mower and forward drive was a cool feature.

Madness sings :“One step beyond“ - had that song today as Earworm, and after Coffeebreak, i looked at the Weather, hum so far nothing to see, just few smaller Clouds. ah, common, let‘s painted the Arms and while color dries that fast at 36deg, i mounted the Liftconsoles back on the Beast. Looks better than i expected, then i painted the Basearms partially, while i finished, i had a look at the Sky. oooops, some Deep dark Clouds has a hurry. maybe i had to hurry myself, bring the painted Arms in shed, (i had luck, kati is out) 😂 than i quick harvest my Dinner for today. Now they realy can be called Potatoes. It was just one Plant i harvest today, but ebit is more that the first ones. Dinner for today is clear, roasted Potatoes..😎 🧐

We dont have trailer queens in Virginia, all our horses are workers.

Started the Paintjob. i decided again, to use Hamerite Black for painting after long years positive experiences with that Stuff. Trying between something different, but that was the best in case of last. I used it on my last Truck, an old Mercedes, to keep the Frame in shape especial on harsh envoirement. Even the Guy who's buy my Truck and rework it, call‘s me and ask what Color i used. there was nearly no Rust at all on the whole Frame. That call yesterday forces my decision, that i‘ll be right. drove today early quick to Construction market and get 1/2 Liter of that Stuff. Than i begin to prepare the lift Consoles, also repaint the base Console on the Tractor. firstly with Drill and Steelbrush, later with sanding vlies. After that i cleaned all with Silicon and fat remover, than i be prepared. Thinkin how i paint it, once by Rattlecan or by paintroller, i decided to use the Paintroller and a brush. Than i firstly painted the first Layer. Than second and finally third. The details i stipped with brush and reworked with the roller for get a similar skin. cannot remove easy the Weldingspots in that small Area with the Steelbrush or Flex, but they don‘t disturb the functionallity, so i decide to let‘em. The Paint will do the trick to hide them a bit. 😎 😂 I‘m fine with the Result. Tomorrow if it didn‘t rain, i will begin mount the consoles and paint the Arms partially. The safety Hooks i decide to screw on, but this comes later, after i see, if my Valveblock does not collide with them. Otherwise the will be integrated in the Mountplate for the Valveblock. but for now it’s time let the Paint dry and urgently a Coffeebreak is required, later i have to harvesting some Potatoes for Dinner today. 😇 I like it, if it work like this 👍🚜

I agree, definitely a B, since it has the narrow front and the cultivision thingy. A B was basically an A, but with a narrow front. It got replaced by the C, which did away with the cultivision setup. Here is a nice little sales video on the B. Farmall_B_2.mp4

The best decisions in life are those that are made with an end goal in mind. The long term gain in this case is having a family project with your two daughters. A lot more learning and bonding will take place if the older engines are brought back from the dead rather than just achieving the short term goal of being able to drive a re-powered .

Well today im very proud and happy to say my daughter cut her hair today and donated it for a wig to be made Here she is seems like she grew up overnight im so Proud! She turns 6 in September.

Step one... turning that back tire the right way great find!

Since I no longer do much welding sold my Mig, I hate flux core wire and there's no way to justify paying demurrage on gas bottles and it takes a few months for the turn around to have self owned bottles filled. Found and older Lincoln AC at a yard sale that's old enough to have copper winding's, performs decent enough that I'm happy with it, now that I'm using that old RV trailer frame and axles to build into a utility trailer. I'm burning up some rod, with the welder purchase some 7014 came in the deal, now that I've used all of that up a neighbor gave me some 7024 that has an unusually thick flux coating. So I did some research and this is what I found on welding rods. 8 Questions About Stick Welding Electrodes Answered Print Article We’ve answered some frequently asked questions to help you choose the right stick electrodes for your welding application. Stick welding requires skill Whether you are a DIYer who stick welds only a few times a year or a professional welder who welds every day, one thing is certain: Stick welding requires a lot of skill. It also requires some know-how about stick electrodes (also called welding rods). Because variables such as storage techniques, electrode diameter and flux composition all contribute to stick electrode selection and performance, arming yourself with some basic knowledge can help you minimize confusion and better ensure stick welding success. 1. What are the most common stick electrodes? Hundreds, if not thousands, of stick electrodes exist, but the most popular are mild steel electrodes, which fall into the American Welding Society (AWS) classification A5.1. These include the 6010, 6011, 6012, 6013, 7014, 7024 and 7018 electrodes. 6010 electrodes deliver deep penetration and have the ability to “dig” through rust, oil, paint or dirt, making them popular among pipe welders. 2. What do AWS stick electrode classifications mean? To help identify stick electrodes, the AWS uses a standardized coding system. Codes take the form of numbers and letters printed on the side of each stick electrode, and each represents specific electrode properties. For the mild steel electrodes mentioned above, here is how the AWS system works: The letter "E" indicates an electrode. The first two digits represent the resulting weld's minimum tensile strength, measured in pounds per square inch (psi). For example, the number 70 in a E7018 electrode indicates that the electrode will produce a weld bead with a minimum tensile strength of 70,000 psi. The third digit represents the welding position(s) for which the electrode can be used. For example, 1 means the electrode can be used in all positions and 2 means it can be used on flat and horizontal fillet welds only. The fourth digit represents the coating type and the type of welding current (AC, DC or both) that can be used with the electrode. 7018 electrodes produce strong welds with high impact properties and can be used on high strength steel base metals. 3. What are the differences between 6010, 6011, 6012 and 6013 electrodes and when should they be used? 6010 electrodes can only be used with direct current (DC) power sources. They deliver deep penetration and have the ability to dig through rust, oil, paint and dirt. Many experienced pipe welders use these all-position electrodes for root welding passes on a pipe. However, 6010 electrodes feature an extremely tight arc, which can make them difficult for novice welders to use. 6011 electrodes can also be used for all-position welding using an alternating current (AC) welding power source. Like 6010 electrodes, 6011 electrodes produce a deep, penetrating arc that cuts through corroded or unclean metals. Many welders choose 6011 electrodes for maintenance and repair work when a DC power source is unavailable. 6012 electrodes work well in applications that require gap bridging between two joints. Many professional welders also choose 6012 electrodes for high-speed, high-current fillet welds in the horizontal position, but these electrodes tend to produce a shallower penetration profile and dense slag that will require additional post-weld cleaning. 6013 electrodes produce a soft arc with minimal spatter, offer moderate penetration and have an easily-removable slag. These electrodes should only be used to weld clean, new sheet metal. 4. What are the differences between 7014, 7018 and 7024 electrodes and when should they be used? 7014 electrodes produce about the same joint penetration as 6012 electrodes and are designed for use on carbon and low-alloy steels. 7014 electrodes contain a higher amount of iron powder, which increases deposition rate. They can also be used at higher amperages than 6012 electrodes. 7018 electrodes contain a thick flux with high powder content and are one of the easiest electrodes to use. These electrodes produce a smooth, quiet arc with minimal spatter and medium arc penetration. Many welders use 7018 electrodes to weld thick metals such as structural steel. 7018 electrodes also produce strong welds with high impact properties (even in cold weather) and can be used on carbon steel, high-carbon, low-alloy or high-strength steel base metals. 7024 electrodes contain a high amount of iron powder that helps increase deposition rates. Many welders use 7024 electrodes for high-speed horizontal or flat fillet welds. These electrodes perform well on steel plate that is at least 1/4-inch thick. They can also be used on metals that measure over 1/2-inch thick. 5. How do I choose a stick electrode? First, select a stick electrode that matches the base metal strength properties and composition. For example, when working on mild steel, generally any E60 or E70 electrode will work. Next, match the electrode type to your welding position and consider your available power source. Remember certain electrodes can only be used with DC or AC, while other electrodes can be used with both DC and AC. You will also want to assess the joint design and fit-up you need and select an electrode that will provide the best penetration characteristics (digging, medium or light). If you are working on a joint with tight fit-up or one that is not beveled, electrodes such as E6010 or E6011 will provide digging arcs to ensure sufficient penetration. For thin materials or joints with wide root openings, select an electrode with a light or soft arc such as an E6013. To avoid weld cracking on thick, heavy material and/or complicated joint designs, select an electrode with maximum ductility. Also consider the service condition the component will encounter and the specifications it must meet. Will it be used in a low temperature, high temperature or shock-loading environment? For these applications, a low hydrogen E7018 electrode works well. You should also consider the production efficiency. When working in the flat position, electrodes with a high iron powder content, such as such E7014 or E7024, offer higher deposition rates. For critical applications, always check the welding specification and procedures for the electrode type. 6. What function does the flux surrounding a stick electrode serve? All stick electrodes consist of a wire surrounded by a coating called flux, which serves several important purposes. It is actually the flux, or the covering, on the electrode that dictates where and how an electrode can be used. When you strike an arc, the flux burns and produces a series of complex chemical reactions. As the flux ingredients burn in the welding arc, they release shielding gas to protect the molten weld pool from atmospheric impurities. When the weld pool cools, the flux forms slag to protect the weld metal from oxidation and prevent porosity in the weld bead. Flux also contains ionizing elements that make the arc more stable (especially when welding with an AC power source), along with alloys that give the weld its ductility and tensile strength. Some electrodes use flux with a higher concentration of iron powder to help increase deposition rates, while others contain added deoxidizers that act as cleaning agents and have the ability to penetrate corroded or dirty workpieces or mill scale. 7. When should I use a high deposition stick electrode? High deposition rate electrodes can help complete a job faster, but these electrodes have limitations. The additional iron powder in these electrodes makes the weld pool much more fluid, meaning that high deposition electrodes can't be used in out-of-position applications. They also cannot be used for critical or code-required applications, such as pressure vessel or boiler fabrication, where weld beads are subject to high stresses. High deposition electrodes, however, are an excellent choice for non-critical applications, such as welding a simple liquid storage tank or two pieces of non-structural metal together. 8. What is the proper way to store and re-dry stick electrodes? A heated, low humidity environment is the best storage environment for stick electrodes. For example, many mild steel, low hydrogen 7018 electrodes need to be stored at a temperature between 250 and 300 degrees Fahrenheit. Generally, electrodes' reconditioning temperatures are higher than the storage temperature, to help eliminate excess moisture. To recondition the low hydrogen 7018 electrodes discussed above, the reconditioning environment ranges from 500 to 800 degrees for one to two hours. Some electrodes, like 6011s, only need to be stored "dry at room temperature," which is defined as humidity levels not exceeding 70 percent at a temperature between 40 and 120 degrees. For specific storage and reconditioning times and temperatures, always refer to the manufacturer's recommendations. Related Articles Factors for Selecting the Right Stick Electrode Frequently Asked Questions About Stick Welding Stick Welding for Equipment Repair: Electrodes, Equipment and Technique

First the sickel bar now another mower........ wonder if she will ever go away again ? My number 5 daughter returned home a few months ago and was willing to mow but the "big" Horses intimidated her a little.... so.... after picking up yesterdays Sickel Mower I went and got a Wheel Horse cousin.... A Toro 10-32 that has a Wheel Horse Decal up front, maybe they sold em that way in 1989. Appears to be very well kept and after airing the tires, swapping a battery in, and jumping the ignition she fired right up.... Not anything like my other Wheel Horses but pretty nice little mower..... I was surprised that the turning radius was larger than my C-100..... but for 200.00 a keeper and maybe my new tenant will cut the grass !!!!!!

I forgot to mention that if your machine does not have an hour meter consider adding one.These Kohler engines have no oil filter and regular oil changes are key to long life.

I agree with Eric what you have is a great worker.Change the engine oil every 20 hours and it will last many years.You did well.

They are not cub weights, but they look heavy and sounds like they were free!! A little work work with a grinder and some paint and they will be perfect! Randy

Like most parents I am proud of my children and their accomplishments. My son graduated in the top 10 percent of his class with a chemical engineering degree from Va Tech. He went to work for Azdel Corporation as a production engineer. The parent company, Hanwha, is a multinational corporation with holdings servicing ,the petrochemical, financial and chemical sectors. Hanwha started an advertising campaign asking its employees to submit an essay about why they are proud to work for Hanwha. Hanwha proud was the theme. Out of the many submissions my son's was one of the five chosen.The prize was a poster of him and the other finalists to be displayed in New York's Times Square and a company paid trip to see it in person.This my son Andrew with his likeness on display. Shortly after he started to work for Azdel, he came home to visit. He spent a lot of time on the production floor then and interacted with the workers. He told me that he met an elderly woman who was a custodian and found she was walking miles home because she had no car. He started giving her a lift home. I told him that alone is one of my proudest moments as a parent.

Children are reflections of their parents.... while patting him on the back, know it wouldn’t have been without you there to help guide him.

years back, no photo, I found one in a yard sale in upstate Ct, no motor. I bought it for $50. A day or so later bought a small mower with a 5 or 6 HP Briggs, horizontal shaft, for $35. . I married the two and they lived happily ever after ! Even the stock belt worked .

how about having this job? could be the best job ever!

i used to run one of those back in the 60,s , ( did i say that ? ) when i would work week ends to make extra money. very tough and rugged, you had to really watch your forward motion or get hauled into a brier patch. i remember regularly lubing everything , especially the cutter slide bar. obviously OSHA WOULD QUICKLY KILL THAT OFF , but if i had a chance to get one i would not hesitate , i have some scrub brier thorns near a cattle area that would be fun to cut down with that, great pick up , pete

Cut down birch tree that didn't want to grow on the rock any more. 1988 520H and 1948 Ferguson TE-20.

I’ve got one complete k91 with the exhaust port that’s broke in half , one that’s in boxes all disassembled (no idea how complete) and a block that I got from jake . Should be able to get at least one out of the bunch.

JAinVA. Looks like a real worker. Get it dirty and do a days work. Enjoy.

In my opinion lake are the beautiful of all trout!! Nice catch Steve!!

After i had today that inaceptable phone call, i cancel the Contract. I accept stress, but i don‘t accept unkindness in that Way. However, drove to the Office and ask if i could use the Machines, a Yes started my nightly Action. first i quick dismount the FEL Parts and put in my Car. Than i sorted my Materials and begin a hardcore cut, drill &Welding session. Yes i know, no Seams they worth a Price but they Last and i had just few Hours. Normally i hate it, do things in houding but no Time for any Breaks. I welded both inside and outside and i‘m far from a professional Welder. but for my purposes it lasts and it is good enough. a lot of Metal must be cutted, drilled, formed and Welded. i ended up with a nearly complete Final new FEL in Steel. just the Struts are still just Material but Precutted. Consoles are reworked and improved made of 5mm Steel All together was done in 4h + 1h for Cooling and completely Handcrafted. the Console differs a bit from the Plan but i must build a Solution, i can handle myself. I’m proud of the Result.

VW Beetle can tow a 5th wheel.

Seems as though that one has slightly more power than the stock chevette

I am now buying one of those, deleting this account, and making a new one named "Nut Roaster". Thanks for the idea.

Growing up in the small town where I did we had no Yugo dealer around so they were as rare as hen's teeth which was probably good. The only time I was ever around 1 is when I sold somebody a set of brake pads and I realized exactly how small they really were.

Nut roaster Chris... round hood, nut roaster.

The chevette was sold under the Vauxhall badge over here. The trouble these days, you don't know who makes what. The days of seeing a car go past and saying that's a so and so are long gone. You could tell by the body style and radiator grill. Now they all look much the same. "It was a Ford, Honda, VW, Rover, Ozzifer."

Normally I have little patience for political correctness but since my mother was Japanese I would like to point out how offensive your comment is to some.I don't want to start any arguments but you may want to remember your posts are on a public forum and will be read by many people who don't look like you.

Does this help

important conversion to this very good information, i am amazed to see the problem with this conversion, you are given the exact specifications , yet there is a problem with finding that nut at another source ? if your mind set is to only get " genuine wheel horse parts " , you will have an issue . check w/h parts first , but don,t let the fact that you probably won,t find that , stop you. put those specifications on the net , and search , its not difficult, having done this for practically every problem i have encountered , if i was determined to only have genuine w/h parts ( and their prices ) i would still be waiting to solve a basic problem . just my own experience, pete

Well done! I think that stack is perfectly fitting! I may be a bit biased, but a stack and a tractor are like Forrest and Jenny...

Hi Stormin' The last President has been passed on to a fifth generation to be honest, still local to me, but the very young lad and his Dad that have it now, well, it's almost full circle and I believe in it's rightful place. I've got seven, at the moment, of these Wheelhorses to tidy up now, and they are easier to 'store' and it's like me having a reborn youth with them.. And massive thanks for the warm welcome here guys! Titch