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Not positive I'll be at this years show, yet. I still cannot drive my GMC to tow yet, not fair to make my little wife drive all the way herself with our cargo trailer, 10+ hours @ way. I can stand and walk fairly well and am making parts again, but my left foot can't push a clutch down consistently, and I still think & react too slowly . . . (strokes), I think I can do things, BUT, I way over-estimate what I can really do all too often. Marrying a good woman really pays off when a stroke like this happens! Hired my neighbor to mow grass, but he has a JD, . Glen Got some really nice WH covers, they look and work great! (for C-series & 300-series, will fit most other models about that size). Just $50 at the show, shipping is $10.

Added one from a new series to the fleet today. Fires on carb cleaner but won't stay running. Gas smells old. Took the seller and me and a come-along to get her up onto my Tacoma. So heavy I had to drag it up onto my loading ramp as the Tacoma was squatting. Came with a 48" deck in poor shape and a snow blower that has some ugly welding repairs. Hood and belt guard are here but not mounted. Hood needs a hinge. The seat is in perfect shape except for the Fix Or Repair Daily logo. Another project not sure what she will be used for yet.....

Glen, leave the trailer home and come hang out with us. We would all love to see you and we can place orders to have your goodies shipped.

Wow, you guys are quick. My wife always tells me I’m on here too much. She doesn’t understand there’s vultures out there.

Quite simple, just use and abuse it for twenty years or so!

Saw a gt14 for a really good price on Craigslist yesterday went and looked at it last evening, ended up buying it . It’s a 68 or 69 gt14 but I’m not exactly sure which. It’s in decent condition and seems to be complete. It has a really nice complete three point hitch and a really nice three point tiller. I didn’t think the seat and muffler were original but I looked at a manual and it turns out they are. I’m gonna try to get it running for the big show but if I don’t I will still take it. The best part is I bought it from a super nice guy that knows a lot about wheel horses. Some of you might know him, his name is Less, sorry didn’t catch his last name. He has been going to the wheel horse show since the beginning and personally knew Cecil and Betty Pond. He used to have 74 tractors but he narrowed it down to his favorite three. Overall it was a really good day. I got to meet a really nice guy, get another tractor and hear some good stories. Here are a few pictures of the gt14 and tiller. I am gonna start working on it this Sunday. Tractor or serial number Tiller serial number

I’m a huge fan of the Magnum series for motor swaps. My GT1600 (originally a Briggs 16 twin) has a Magnum 10 under the hood and it’s my favorite machine. I had a C-105 with a Magnum 12 that I regret selling a few years ago. So when I saw @Chris T had a machine with a Magnum I casually mentioned that if it was ever up for sale give me a heads up...we’ll he decided to sell and it’s now in my garage! Smooooth and quiet and starts in a pull or two. Motor fits in it real nice and the hood isn’t chopped. It’ll be a perfect cruiser for shows. If you ever have the chance to buy off Chris go for it! Straight shooter, honest and no BS. He even surprised me and delivered it

I can’t keep up with the one I have..... why would I want another?

@GlenPettit We would all like to see you there Glen, but your health comes first. Glad things are looking up...

Talk about a Buy/Sell thread going off topic/down the drain Come-On, I'm looking for some more good sale items to post here

I'm thinkin with the room available either cook a Cornish game hen or a half rack of ribs!

You shouldn't have to bang it at all. Should go through loosely. The eye on your mattock should have a heavy taper.Handle is inserted first staring it from opposite end where head goes through mattock's head opposite operating side if I make any sense. As it reaches other end it wedges itself on tapered end of handle. You can just tap protruding end on floor a couple of times to snug it. Wax seals end grain on handle. If it absorbs a lot of moisture through there it starts turning to mush there and eventually that's the end of it..

It sounds like things are looking up Glen. Glad to hear that. I won't be at the big show this year but if you decide to make Mentone and need any help my services are yours.

My Grampa always joked about keeping a blonde in the closet... maybe she’s in there?

C clamp it to a length of rope, tie it off to Trina’s grader tractor, let Mother Nature help?

Thanks Terry! @Vinylguy These are cool. Sorry the model doesn’t look better.

Good afternoon all!! Windy and rainy here in Illinois but a small patch of sun managed to find me today. I have here a CASE 448 with 18 HP Onan. Never had one but heard when it breaks down, they are very expensive to resurrect. Has hydraulic tiller and a mowing deck that was used twice. Filled with gas and runs good with no problem. Tiller does work and deck is not locked up. Undecided about it's life since it was a free for the taking. I know it would look better painted and think I might paint it like my 970 farm tractor. Orange wheels and frame, Desert Tan for hood and fenders. Too many irons in the fire due to hauling garbage and farming between rain drops. What to do..... Thanks for reading!

First of all—YOU GOT A GREAT DEAL for cast iron weights. Not sure on the brand although the one on the left looks very similar to the late model WH weights... When we bought Kelli’s 523D those were on the back... When Caleb bought JackRabbit (418-C) those were on the back... Ours weigh about 55# a piece. I took one of the the one’s from the D and painted it silver and use it on my land side wheel for GhostRider... It works great as a base for IH wheel weights to be added on. I’m able to run two WH weights on the inside the afformentioned weight on the landside and stack IH weights on top of that. CASE GT’s have some of the coolest looking weights around... Here they are on my cousins tractor. I liked them so much, I got a couple of sets, painted them yellow and put them on my son’s 100 plow mule...

It all depends on how credible you want it to look. For that its not going to be fast. You will have to decide also if you want patina achieved from years of use, or patina from years of neglect and abandonment. First your new handle is most likely to have a varnish finish on it . You will have to strip that. With an unfinished handle for a look of years of use, a hickory handle is best ( white oak is actually best but you will not find one out of it). If you have ammonia around, place handle in a closed container exposed to the fumes of the ammonia ( no direct contact). Leave it for about a week. The chemical reaction with the tannin present in the hickory and the ammonia will give the wood a nice aged brown tone. The longer it stays the darker it will get.Unlike stain it will penetrate very deep into wood. Now you can ding it a bit to put some regular use damage into it. Next to to show use, scuff lightly with steel wool(to give it a little tooth) specially on the parts that would NOT have contact with hand in use and then rub entire handle with moist coffee grinds. Let dry thoroughly. Then around area that hand touches during use wipe vigorously by using your hand around that area.It will develop a nice satiny sheen looking a bit lighter than the rest of it. Finally dip handle in linseed oil. Only dab dry parts that will show no use and rub the parts that will show use. Told you, not so quick but it will be credible. For a neglected handle its a lot easier. Maple is better. Again no finish. Dirty handle substantially with moist dirt. Leave in weather for a while and it will get a dark gray abandoned look. Better yet take handle from above process and leave it in weather for a while. Most well used hammers have inevitable blood stains in them. Pretty distinguishable, nothing else leaves stains like that. You can make it more real by bleeding on it a little.

I wonder if rubbing them down with used engine oil and dirt would give you that used look

I don't know the exact sizes but that information is just about correct. One thing to remember is that the belt guard system must still be usable or you're clutching mechanism as a whole might not work correctly. You can only get away with a slight increase in size on the engine pulley without needing to modify the belt guard so that it will still maintain status as a belt guide. It might be easier and less expensive 2 shrink the size of the transmission pulley instead of increasing the size of the engine pulley. There are sheave and pulley size and RPM calculators online that will help you get to your desired level of speed.

Most cast iron weights in my area are about $1.50 per lb. They may not be for a , but for 10 bucks they would be now!

With the fender pan bolted down, we're waiting for this horse's saddle to arrive from out west! (I purchased a unique c-series seat from @dw753...we'll see if you can guess what's different) ^^^ The hardware securing the fender pan to the tractor is actually new grade8 hw from TSC. It "parkerizes" beautifully as long as you 1st remove the yellow coating prior to the acid simmer. Some red side markers from TSC round-out the rear.

Thanks Rich @19richie66 They turned out better than I expected. Guess I better have more made before the show .

Robbie: Great looking GT. looks like you and i got the GT-14 bug the same day!!! Love the 3pt and tiller You did great my friend!!!

I'm definitely a guy, but I also try to pay attention to what goes on in other GT worlds. Never know when you might have an opportunity to turn some ones junk, into someone else's treasure.

I have the good fortune of having longevity on both sides of my family. Late eighty is considered young for a member of either family to pass. With the exception of accidental deaths and cancer my relatives live well into their nineties. Guess I better hope my IRA holds out for a while longer. At the time the company I worked for instituted a no smoking indoors policy I was rather put out by it. I had already quit drinking ten years prior, but smoking was much harder to stop. At the time I did some SCUBA diving and within a few months found that I could remain down much longer and suffered less fatigue. That was thirty years ago and each year's annual physical demonstrates the blessing of a smoke free life.

My dad passed away at 69. Smoked for 35-40 years. Not a heavy smoker but maybe a pack a day. When they went to harvest his organs, everything was black. They couldn’t use anything but his corneas. My grandfather smoked occasionally and a pipe also. He passed at 79. My great uncle never smoked, never drank, survived the battle of Midway, came home from the war, opened a jewelry store and was married to his wife for 65 years. Ate fried chicken, hotdogs, cheeseburgers and french fries. He passed at 92. I am glad I never started anything tobacco but if I could just kick that pizza habit.......

As soon as I saw the pictures, I knew someone would want that pristine Ford seat. Those are hard to find in that kind of shape!!

It is said if one has been smoker, and it really doesn't relate much to how long you smoked, if you quit entirely, the effects of the smoking are largely completely reversed after five years of abstinence. I smoked those Swisher Sweet cigars for about 15 years, but quit five years ago, right before I found out by accident (problems with a tooth crown) I was a stroke candidate waiting to happen because of my extremely elevated BP. I'm 5 years and 4 months out from quitting and feel much better. My new battle is weight gain.........somewhat caused by quitting smoking. BP is normal again, kidney function is great, and almost all my labs are looking pretty good for my age (70). Just need to learn to push away from the table a little more, move more, and get off my arse more often. Plan to starting walking again regularly as the weather improves. Some factors you can control, but you're stuck with the heredity you were born with. Some get gifted excellent genetics, some don't. It's like a game of dice.....

Good for you my friend, that’s the best thing you could do for your lungs. And yes save $$$ for anything! Keep up the good work ! I quit 28 years ago and never looked back!

It could be because I wired something wrong--- Use a multi-meter and the electrical diagram to test continuity ( symbol ->| The tone on the meter will ring if it detects continuity) for each and every wire from the connector halves to the location where it shows on the diagram. Pull the connectors apart and tone each wire with the multi-meter until you find which ones are crossed, if any. I'm guessing you have 1 or more wires crossed.

From my prospective it is a great buy if it is what you need (want) and were looking for. If it is just an inexpensive that you don't have a strong desire to own then put the money aside toward your dream horse.

Here's my 312 with the original long (6" wheel) spindle and the up graded 8" wheels. I like it cause it gives me more height under the front axle that allows me to raise the plow frame higher. I really never had a problem adjusting the mower deck.

Heres the little darling just waiting to pry two more Benjamins out of my wallet. Looks to be in decent shape. Overspray on the footboards makes me cringe tho

Always appreciated my friend.

I see you like your steak tender.

I don't know Jeff. You ain't as old as dirt like some of us. Maybe give it another three or five decades?

I have no idea what it was originally meant to fit but I did find a handle at the hardware store the other day that I can modify to work in the upholsterers hammer head without a lot of trouble. It has a slightly longer oval than the hole in the hammerhead. I can sand down where it's oversized enough to get a decent tight fit. whereas it's only going to be a wall decoration for me that will be acceptable. The pickaxe head is something that I could occasionally see myself using to break up topsoil for whatever silly project we've got going on that moment. I'll try to get the correct handle and install it correctly, just in case I want to use it.

It's on the fish pile John.

Here's a complete running 14HP for sale for $150. Starts first rev and no smoke. SOLD

What can I say? The green, green. One of Carols rockeries. Some of the surviving daffodils. Finally the first bloom of the rhododendrons. Oh! I forgot to say it's been a fine, sunny day.

Sorry for your family's losses. We've had a rash of those lately, too. I know that we are all appointed a time to pass, but you are right to say that we can certainly speed up that process. Some things are hereditary, but our diets have turned in to such crap over the years, tied with a lack of physical activity. That's a recipe for disaster. I have been very blessed to still have both parents alive... Dad turned 92 last Sunday, Mom turned 88 last December. I think a huge part of their longevity is their relatively healthy diet, and in Dad's case, the intervention of an awesome heart doctor that did a TAVR procedure on him 5-6 years ago. We will keep your family in our prayers.... and thanks for the reminder.

Mic all your after market parts prior to any machine work...... i have seen after market parts sold from the aftermentioned companies way off.

You can usually restore these coils if you're handy. I've saved a few. I used to run Sears Suburbans. This afternoon when I get home, I'll write up a better post. I've got a copy of the troubleshooting list in the basement. If it's nothing with the stator pulse coil, or wiring, usually it's nothing more than a shorted out diode. It's tedious work, but you can remove the resin insulation and get down to it, solder in a new one. The only thing I've seen that will really kill them is running with a bad plug wire, or the cap coming off the plug. That will blow out the coil winding's, then arc around and cause disaster. And never NEVER check for spark without being sure the plug is grounded. Shame you weren't closer to Maine. I have one of those engines I'll likely be selling. And a second one that's points fired somewhere I think. Personally I am not a fan of the aftermarket kits. They do away with the ignition retard for spark timing. They always seem to start hard without that, and never run like they used to.

Mike.... Snack storage goes there. I'm pretty sure. Feel free to mail me the chrome stack.

JIm, Years ago when I was doing several of the K series engines each year, the owner of my local Kohler engine shop, told me that he had never found it necessary to replace the valve guides on an engine. I followed his advice and have never changed the valve guides on one of the K series engines. Not having changed the valve guides has never caused any issues. I have however on numerous occasions the valves. That said if you are still determined to change them then drill and tap the guide and using a suitable spacer pull them out. Let the discussion begin. David

I'm guessing 25 or 30 lbs. I'm thinking they are inside weights because of the cut out for the valve stem

I doubt they are , others will know for sure. They look something like them, though. Paint them either red or black, and put them on your tractor, and you're all set. For 10 bucks, they are one heck of a deal

I made a form from a couple of 2 x 4 's of the front corner of the hood put a plastic bag over it laid up two layers of 6 oz fiberglass cloth then married it into the hood on the broken corner then added two layers of fiberglass mat to build the thickness up Brian