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Lets see the Workhorse's. I put the snow machines away yesterday and got out the mowing machines. One being my Workhorse. Its all ready to go. First mowing in a week or so I guess. Its coming on fast here now with the warmer days.

I’m a huge fan of the Magnum series for motor swaps. My GT1600 (originally a Briggs 16 twin) has a Magnum 10 under the hood and it’s my favorite machine. I had a C-105 with a Magnum 12 that I regret selling a few years ago. So when I saw @Chris T had a machine with a Magnum I casually mentioned that if it was ever up for sale give me a heads up...we’ll he decided to sell and it’s now in my garage! Smooooth and quiet and starts in a pull or two. Motor fits in it real nice and the hood isn’t chopped. It’ll be a perfect cruiser for shows. If you ever have the chance to buy off Chris go for it! Straight shooter, honest and no BS. He even surprised me and delivered it

got the transmission back together

I needed new choke and throttle cables for my 312a custom so I made some.I hope this will help someone else.I wanted to use the existing throttle cable actuator and just replaced the cable.The cable mount had the crimped section opened up and the old cable removed. I bought a push pull choke cable that was 8' long.The core was pulled out and I cut the spiral portion to length.One end was crimped at the dash end and the other end routed to the engine.The core length was measured and secured at each end.New throttle cable.This fix can be used on any c series or 3,4 or 500 series.

Thanks Terry! @Vinylguy These are cool. Sorry the model doesn’t look better.

The Old 502

Here is listed another Excel SS detailing the Parts #s, Description, and Qty with schematic of D Series components. Covers D-160, D-180, D-200 and the 1973 No-name of 18hp Automatic. For anyone's use to download and identify parts. NOTE...This is a SEPARATED system with a MANIFOLD between the PUMP and MOTOR...so TWO sets of O-rings will be required. The Excel SS is in 3 sections...PUMP...MOTOR...MANIFOLD each with schematic and parts list. I prefer this webiste for best price and delivery, but not all parts are available: https://www.psep1.biz/arinet.asp?aribrand=TO# As for the PUMP seals...Timken is a source and here is a pic for reference D SERIES ALL LIST.xlsx

He probable keeps her secured behind that iron gate

Got the 520H plow installation finished yesterday. Blade angle and was a challenge. It ain't purdy, but it works great.

Great theme!!

Model? Where? I don't see her!

I have revised the Excel SS and exported pit to a .PDF. Will leave it to the Experts / Moderators to upgrade / replace the prior .pdf as it cropped some of the schematic images. SUNDSTRAND PUMP & MOTOR Parts list.pdf

I just picked these up for 10 bucks they're cast iron wheel weights the bolt pattern will bolt up to a wheel horse wheel but I'm not sure if their original Wheel Horse wheel weights does anybody have an idea if they are or are not . They look more orange in color then red to me Thanks

There Ya go Robbie.

Here’s my GT-1800 that I bought new in 1984. The picture with the mid-mount grader blade is before the restoration. I also have a red work horse (it was that way when I got it). Then pictures of my original one restored. And a couple from the big show.

Agreed, not only did I get another tractor but I also met an awesome guy that knows more about wheel horses than anyone I have ever met.

Just keep scoring Robbie.... we'll tell you when to stop!

Seems like I’m posting in this thread a lot picked a little something up today. I will post a thread about it later this evening when I have more time.

Got the hood sandblaster and primed, tonight looks like some wet sanding prep for paint. Made up the bushing for the hood hindge set up on these tractors, 3/8 ID x 7/16 OD with a small collar to keep in position.

Coming soon at the classifieds near you???

I'll probably get flamed for this, but the only time I'll wait for someone to show is when nobody else calls. seriously, people will say they coming... If I see a sweet deal, I make sure i get there immediately now, if you approach this with the right attitude, you could leverage getting shafted for a better deal on the others

It much progress lately. I’ve been busy trying to keep up with things at school and outside now that Spring is here. I did get a chance to work on the grille tonight. The original was pretty rusted all over - through in some places. I have the grille from the parts 165, but somebody broke the top brace mount brackets clear off. So, I decided to cut the old brackets from the original and weld them on the solid one. I did have to pound out a few dents and put a skim of body filler on them. Probably won’t get another chance to work until this weekend. Oh well, a little progress is better than no progress! Please ignore my ugly welds. I’m using a flux core and it doesn’t seemlike it’s getting hot enough to do a nice job lately. Might be time for a new one.

Some of my 'junk' out working. Daycab is a 1984 Pete 359 w/ a Cat 3406B (7FB) and a 15spd. It's double frame with a 39" 5th wheel slide setup on it. Originally setup for pulling a RGN Trailer. I hope to do more RGN work in the coming months. Everything is New. Motor was inframed, Trans and Clutch is new, brakes, tires, Air Lines, fuel lines, etc etc etc ... it's essentially a brand new truck, just without the payment.

my wheel horse is ready after the restoration. now only restore and overhaul the cutting deck. The results are impressive! what do you think?

Ah-ha!! that's why I'm a believer in things happen for a reason . Just because one door closes, doesn't means another one won't open. A blessing in disguise

Both Trina and I can vouch for the serious-ity of your infectionalism. Don't fight it. That is likely to be the worst possible thing to do. Known cures don't exist but there are treatments.... In the form of a well rounded carefully chosen herd. She has latched on to the mid sixties square hoods while I have been quite happy with the mid seventies B/C models. The SB should have a Briggs and Stratton engine in it. I've long been a fan of them. Combined with the series of horse.... Could be awesomeostical. Two things: 1. Buy it. 2. Post pics.

Nice conversion! That thing looks Factory.

Do not be afraid!! As far as I know there is no known cure. But it’s ok . We are all here to give support! Buy it

Happy Wheel Horse and classic trucks Birthday, @Stepney!

The bull gear differential and some other gears are the same or very similar in 8 Speeds and Hydro gear transaxles of the period (Charger/Electro sisters of the raider ). The hydros ran ATF ..mine still do 50 years later My Lawn ranger has run 40w motor oil for 52 years with out a problem. I wouldn't worry much about it. Like some of said I think synthetics are over kill unless you are using the unit commercially. I would rather spend the extra$$ on more frequent changes. Most all tranny issues i have seen stemmed from water in the oil....

This one has a few more curves.

For building high load pulling tools, splitters, and such other devices - I use these as a cheap source of high strength forcing screws. https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Transmission/ACME-Thread-Lead-Screw-Nuts/ The ACME thread design can handle much higher loads than any SAE or Metric 60* thread design. Just be sure to keep them oiled and be careful in how you weld the nuts to avoid embrittlement. I've had to build countless pullers, pushers, splitters and other tools to work on things that were designed to not be serviced, but replaced. I don't accept that, so I rebuild a lot of things that for the most part aren't all that tough to do. Just takes time and some thinking outside the box. Sarge

I'm still down to the rafters, builder 60 years ago cut rafters 3/4 way through and put a small patch around pipe. Have to box in rafters and cut pipe to fit through box, put new subflooring, bla,bla,bla. Dam it JIM I'm a mechanic not a carpenter.

That grill looks like it is Bumble Bee’s friend...

I'm technic sick. the Doctor tell's me it can't be cured. 😎

Tater vine.....

As much as it seems a bad move on the seller's part, after having dealt with so many flakes when selling stuff over the internet, I'm almost the same way. I've sold things in the past to people who've said "I'll be back with cash tomorrow!" and set up a time, to never hear from that person again. Unless someone leaves a deposit, if someone else shows up with cash first it's theirs. I've had stuff sold out from under me like that before and I've learned to bring a trailer and cash any time I'm going to look at something, instead of having to go back. Bringing the means to haul something is a huge bargaining-ship, since the seller will know you're serious. I'd go ahead and get the others.

I would make my own.I just did this on my 312A custom.I would just get a generic choke cable and pull the core.Cut the spiral wrap to length and then insert the core wire and bend the choke end.I need to do the throttle cable as soon as the cable arrives and will post pictures.If there is enough interest I can post a video. Replacing cables is not that hard. If you are comfortable working on 30year old tractors its easy.

Always go with the Eaton 1100 over the 700 .

What a bummer. The silver lining, is that you found out they were gone BEFORE you got there.

Had something similar my self today. Went to move the C-160 to put the deck on. Engaged the Hydro and SCREEEEEEE!. Disengaged and noise stopped. Tried again and SCREE then quiet. Put the deck on than pulled the belt cover. Belt idler bearing going bad. Glad it happened now and not during a snowstorm.

Yesterday I decided to mow the green opposite my abode. I do the lane verges and a piece of ground outside next door as well. So the nice rebuilt C-125 was fitted with my recently acquired 36" deck. Things went quite well. Nice and steady round the green as the grass was a tad long. Then onto the verge by the pond too the neighbours frontage. Halfway through and suddenly a horrible clattering and banging noise. Shut down fast and had the horrible thought the engine had gone. Tentatively placed my hand on the flywheel mesh guard to see if the engine would turn. It would and both forward and back. No strange noises either. So lets see if it will restart. Turned the key and nothing. Not even a click. The P.T.O. was disengaged by the way. Tried several times to no avail. Only thing to do was push it home. Back in the yard and off with the deck. Decided to try starting again. No luck at first, but with the bonnet/hood up, and trying the key I had a feel around at the wiring. Nothing until I touched the P.T.O. cut off switch and gave it a wobble. Engine fired and carried on running perfectly. Not frightening noises, just it's normal chuff, chuff, chuff. Diagnosis! Faulty switch so by passed it and all is well. But what was the racket then. Today I refitted the deck. Started the tractor, half revs and engaged the P.T.O. Bang, clatter and bang. Source found. Although the belt looked fine, it was flapping and bouncing like a good 'un. The years sitting in a shed had effected the fabric and the sudden use and an hours work finished it off. BTW. The belt tensioner was nice and free. Not stuck or sticking.

Since it was a nice 55 degree day yesterday, my oldest son Max and I broke out the lawn ranger and picked up sticks in the yard. Here he is when we got started, he was so happy tractor riding season was finally here!

Believe it or not you were already headed down the right Road. There is one big huge large incredibly important key when trying to do something like this PATIENCE Penetrating fluid of your choice and a hand torch. Heat. Soak. Heat. Soak. Heat. Soak.. tap it a little bit with a hammer one way or the other. Repeat Patience Repeat steps above More patience important to remember that it took 50 or 60 years for these tractors to become Frozen up with rust so it isn't something you can undo in 5 minutes

Yeah guys, all I gotta do is build a tractor, cover some geography, and show up on time for the Roast of Pullstart!

Finished cleaning the he frame, engine, and trans today. Put a good coat of black before I quit to burn brush.

the blueish color is just the normal off color of the raw hot roll steel they used to build the tractor brian

I believe it's ready for some primer all holes have been fixed

finally getting back on this project I'll see what I can do with this hood

Made a new tail shaft gear for the output shaft on the transmission I bought a gear that was longer than the original and cut It down to the length I needed then I had a coworker who runs our wire EDM machine cut a internal spline to fit the output shaft here's the old gear that I cut off the output shaft new gear this gear now takes up the space that gave me the slop in the original trans setup I will use a harden washer and bolt to attach to output shaft Brian