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Never thought I’d own a full detailed wheel horse toy to this caliber . I’d have to thank Eston Hoffman for the build . His attention to detail is out of this world. This is serial #2 out of 10 made . Case is all led lights .

Decided to give the fleet a service yesterday. Engine oil on all except the C-125. That was done after the rebuild. So C-81, The Black Horse and Sears/Roper all got new blood. The trans were drained by jacking up the front and a 3" block under the RH rear wheel. I only did the C-81 and C-125. The oil in the other two was done last year and still clean. I did find both RH rear tyres on the C-81 and C-125 had no air in. C-81 possibly not sealing and the C-125 has a split valve. They'll be sorted next week. Today was grease day. Every grease nipple I could find got done. Much to my surprise the Sears/Roper had no grease nipples in the axle spindles. Holes yes. Nipples no. Also no way to grease the axle pivot. OK! I'll do something about that. Jack up the front and lower on to axle stands. Keep the H&S bods happy. Removed the track rods from the spindles and spindles complete with wheels. Why make work. Then the axle itself after removing the front hitch. With that on you couldn't remove the pivot bolt. Drilled out the holes for the nipples and re-threaded to take the larger nipples I had. The nipples protruded into the spindle tube, so thin washers were used to pack them out. Next the pivot bolt. This was over long so lost a1/4" then into the lathe to have a grease hole drilled up the centre. Then a hole drilled through the bolt shank halfway along. Finally the end threaded to take a grease nipple. All back together and greased. Quote Edit Hide all signatures I've been to Midsomer and survived. 1975 Raider 10. Future project. 1978 Sears/Roper. GT16. 1978 C-121 custom. The Black Horse. 1979 C-81 Commando 800. 1982 C-125.Old Faithful. Home built land roller. Home built snow/dozer blade. Home built mid mounted grader blade. Auto Culto single furrow plough. 1963 Wheel Horse Sickle

Update on Scottie Physical Therapy and Occupational Therapy have been a real workout for Scottie. Physical therapy works on Scottie's lower body and regaining his muscle mass and strength and that takes a toll on him. Occupational therapy works on Scottie's upper body and regaining his strength in his arms and upper torso. This is his favorite therapy, because he likes the different exercises and it does not cause him much pain in his catheter and Scottie's favorite therapist is Brandon his occupational therapist. Therapy will be delayed for the next couple of weeks as he needs to recover from his surgery. On Saturday, Scottie started having extreme bladder spasms that resulted in him having urination around the penial stent catheter. He was able to be irrigated without any difficulties, so I just kept a close eye on his urine output and monitored his pain. On Tuesday was a very bad day for him as we realized that his catheter was clogged when I met some resistance while irrigating his supra-pubic catheter. I then capped off his supra-pubic catheter and attached the catheter bag to his penial stent catheter and that helped alleviate some of the urination around the penial stent catheter. As protocol I called the on-call urologist and informed him that we had a clogged catheter and that he was draining from the penial stent catheter instead of his supra-pubic catheter. This call was also to help ease Scottie's anxiety and it was also so he was assured that there was nothing else I could do for his clogged catheter. Much to our surprise, we received a phone call on Wednesday morning from Scottie's urology team and they were following up on the phone call from the previous night. They said that we needed to come in on April 4, 2019 (Thursday) for an emergency surgery to replace his catheters. So Lowell, Scottie, and I headed back to Rochester for yet another surgery, yesterday. Once we arrived and got Scottie prepped for surgery, we had a few questions about what was the plan moving forward. Yesterday, his urology surgeon told us that Scottie was having his two catheters taken out and they were only going to be putting the supra-pubic catheter back in, leaving the penial stent catheter out. This should help reduce his pain in this penis and the bladder spasms for him. We found out that once his penial stent catheter was out, it starts the clock for his recovery and to his reconstruction surgery. We found out that when he has the reconstructive surgery, he will be requiring another hospital stay. But we do not know when that will be as of yet. We do know that in the earlier part of May we are scheduled for another catheter replacement and then they will take x-rays and images to determine what his urethra has done and what our next procedure is. We also found out that his two major surgeries, his bladder and his right elbow, can be coordinated together so he has one less surgery. As we move onto the next chapter of Scottie's Recovery, we know that there are multiple surgeries ahead of us, intensive therapy both physical and occupational, hospital stays, and long nights with pain that will slowly subside. We know that God is with us each and every step on this long road of recovery. We know that with Scottie's upcoming surgeries, I am trying to coordinate around the tractor shows that Lowell, Travis, and Bryan will be attending. I know that Scottie and I will be there too depending on how Scottie feels. The shows that we are planning on attending include the Big Show in PA, Garden Tractor Daze in WI, and Pioneer Power in MN. Please continue to keep us in your thoughts and prayers.

A little haul for a rainy day.

Yes it is . He did an over the top job John.

Looks the same but never even looked, didn't want to fall in love with it. Probably a 582. Said it came off a piggy back fork lift. Quite the enjoyable score, guy came out the house with a gun in hand but once I started flashing pics of my tractors guy became real friendly and started showing me his work...

That's a given Eric, And part of my plan. You see, I haven't been able to use the "big shoes" for 3 years either. and I luv to walk. Bring on a blizzard.

I did a lot of research on my C160 when I was bringing it back to life and over the years I accumulated a lot of information on it. I really like working with electric and redid some diagrams for it. so I would like to share with all those that have trouble with it. I know these work because this is working on my C160 to this day. The diagrams above are for the original wiring and for a relay to run bigger lights ( blue wires)or any thing up to 15 amps, any more then 15 amps could cook your regulator. This is mainly for the 1974-1979 B & C series tractors, B80, B100, C100, C120, C140, C160. PLEASE DOUBLE CHECK BEFORE YOU ORDER YOUR PARTS. THIS IS A START FOR THOSE THAT DONT HAVE A CLUE AS TO WHAT PARTS YOU NEED. STARTER Solenoid Part Number: 108544 Solenoid 960151 ========================= REGULATOR-RECTIFIER Kohler 41 403 06-S Stens 435-024 R10297 Voltage Regulator Replaces Kohler 4140306-S 8 - 24 HP Kohler Engines with 15 AMP Alternator. Models K181, K241, K301, K321, K482, K532, & K582. "L" Pattern with 2 Terminals. ======================================== SWITCH-LIGHTS #102138 =============================== CONDENSER 230722-S Replaces A237083, 237083 ,455147, Stens 455 147 055145 455-147 055-145 Used ON K91, K141, K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, K482, K532, K582 with battery ignitions ============================================= BREAKER POINTS KOHLER# 47 150 03-S ( 47 150 03-S - 4715003-S. stens 450 403 phelon 02770 Replaces Old Kohler Part # 4815003-S, 48 150 03-S Napa points part number 7-01029 ============================ Coil Wire KOHLER/238057-S =================================== COIL, IGNITION 41 519 21-S Stens 055-133 Ignition Coil. FITS MODELS: Kohler K91-K361 with battery ignitions. REPLACES OEM: John Deere: AM38411, Kohler: 231281, 231281-S, 41 519 21-A, 41 519 21-S. ========================================== SWITCH SAFETY--------- 101845 ================================== SPARK PLUG USE 25 132 10-S ,Champion H10C,Auto lite 216, Notes: 14mm, 7/16 reach, 13/16 hex. – Kohler K241 (10 HP), K301 (12 HP), K321 (14 HP), K341 (16 HP) ================================================ KH10091 SATOR ===================================================================== 101450 RECTIFIER-REGULATOR ======================================================================== BALL SAFETY SWITCH =============================================================================== IGNITION SWITCH =========================================================================== Relay ========================================================================== Solenoid Starter 108437 8658 109605 ================================================================== Gauge Tachometer =================================================================== THIS DIAGRAM IS WITH VOLTAGE GAGE AND RELAY AND A TACHOMETER. Blue wires

A few months back I was looking for the flat bar to make snow plow angle levers, they didn't have it at my local TSC so I went to the next one south of me in Lexington, they had the iron I needed but they also had 24x52 steel drum roller priced originally $259.99 but happened to be on clearance for $79.99 that the manager gave me another $10 off because it was scratched up and some rust, but on top of that I had a coupon for 10% off my entire purchase, final reduced price for a brand new unused Ohiosteel roller $63.00...that being said and done it has sat beside the carport since bringing it home I really wanted to change out the "pin" hitch to 1-7/8" ball coupler which I got from HF for $9.99, so today I got at it cut the pin hitch tabs off ground down the left over welds down added 2"sq tube over the 1-3/4" tube then welded and bolted the new coupler to the original tube drawbar, ready to "roll" now.

Huh?!? Wutt?? I know there's words there but they make no sense.... Ok ok yeah.... I know what you mean... Only so much space and time... I guess.

We have an eaglet 9AM this morning.

Finally after a lengthy and enjoyable battle I got my c100 humming thanks to the good folks here.

Picked this up for a 100 dolla beel today. Too bad it's gotta go to a fellow Mafioso. Nope can't keep it, don't want to pi$$ off a mafia guy! Would be quite the motor to go thru and plant in a 520 or rad custom!

Well last night I got some progress made on the ole girl. Really gotta give her a name, have to think on that one. Well I made up a new set of tie rods for her.

I would pull the fuel line off at the carb. Hold it in a container while someone cranks the engine. The fuel should spurt out in a strong stream. If it does, then the problem (blockage) is in the carb. If it does not spurt strongly, the next step is to pull the fuel line off at the input to the fuel pump to see if the fuel pump is getting a supply of fuel. If you have a good supply into the pump, then the pump is bad. If you do not have fuel into the pump, then there is a blockage in the lines and or tank shutoff valve.

This is my homemade wheel weight idea. I can easily stack 140 lbs on per side. I'm thinking of manufacturing them and selling them at the different events. They work well for the plowers too.

I called on a “free firewood p” posting on CL and it was advertised as easy access. I called, let him know I had a truck, dump trailer and saw ready to go and could be on the way soon. He was good was that, and I asked if I could drive up to the wood. He hesitated, then asked if I know how to drive a tractor. “Well, yes I do!” As long as I don’t scratch the tractor or outside of the bucket, I’m allowed to use his loader tractor. Well, here I am heading to dump one load, get him some fuel and cut another load before the day’s over! Would you you tell someone to com over and grab the tractor f on a CL ad, when you’re not there? I can tell you I wouldn’t!

I 've been on disability for 2 months so I'm having 404a withdrawls! I read your post and thought I gave you a like. Things are a bit foggy. I was up all night installing alarms on my horses in case you get too close to them!

I got the axle bracket and plow frame on. I was determined to keep the plow angle lever inside the warm cab. I had to get a little creative to clear all the stuff on the right side of the 520. I cut a slot in my heat collector to bring the lever up through, then had to put a few bends in the lever to clear the foot pedal, the cab support, the PTO lever and my right leg. This is what I ended up with.

Okay Kev Here's what we're going to do First things first. I want you to calm down and take a breath. Next, two things..... 1. Most important. Definitely do this first. You go give your wife a nice hug and a kiss and tell her you love her and she's excellent. 2. Jump in the truck and head for the nearest building supply store!!

I haven’t seen “Big Red” before, but I have a feeling it might be the most useful of pickup style Wheel Horses!

It towed off the trailer fairly easy. Once it was on the ground, I had Rylee help steer it out of the way. Unloading didn’t move the truck and trailer that far! I even had the trailer chocked...

Unloading day My father inlaw’s shop needs the trailer back...

I have the rear Axel bracket, just getting that cleaned up. Mostly I can't figure it where the cable routing would go. As requested a few more pics.

Two seasons ago. We had a little more snow than normal. Trina and I went out snowshoeing and on the way back into the house we saw a black thing in the snow. We realized later that day that it was the top of the gas grill which is right around 5 feet tall..... By the way. You want snowshoeing? jump in the car. Couple of good places to stay right here local. We'll take you on a nice woods walk.

Let me double check for you but off hand I think it was 5/8. Hey eb let me know the sizes you need, I would be happy to cut face and drill and tap a set for you. Most I have done have a nominal size of 9" center to center line of bolts. I would install grade 8 fine thread bolts in the ends. Pay shipping to your door and you got em. Let me know Rod

Well I was trying to do the updates on my phone from work, but my eyes and fat fingers make it to hard. I was also starting to make up some am co bronze bushing for different places on the tractor. I think I got lucky in the fact that my axle ends show no wear. My pivot pin tab was broken off and the pin shows wear. No worries, I am making a new pin and that should take care of that. I do have some extra space in that area where the pivot pin goes, .055 to be precise. So I did make up a .050 bronze washer to fill that space. That should take up the extra play in the axle. The bushing under the fan gear was really worn so I made one of those also.

Well I got her. Paid $320 for her. Runs, drives and serves your guests tea. I know the battery cable ends are gojnh to need replacing and the “original wheelhorse” oil needs to be drained. But besides that it fires off like a champ. It does have a slot hitch with it but I think the lift cable is broken because it terminates right underneath the transmission. Probably will end up sourcing that out somewhere. Any clue if toro still makes them? (Pictures of the hitch coming as soon as I unload it tonight) It definitely needs a tad bit of tlc. As stated before it as the orginal oil in it. Definitely needs ti be washed. The belt guard was rubbing against the belt so the guy put a spacer in. Any concerns as to why that wont work or be bad for the tractor? Finally I am thinking about a refresh on it. Not sure yet........

Really not to much to panic about, some modern transmission use ATF fluids for ease of shifting. Wear is not really a problem, ATF has good lubrication properties. The old WH gear cases are more suited to 80-90 and either synthetic or regular is fine. I am not sure you will be getting a bang for buck on the synthetic since it is a pretty low speed, low horse power unit and not much issues with heat.

I couldn't stand it ... Had to try the 10" plow out. So I "MacGyvered" something for the lift and the plow works great!

K341 is back from the machine shop and since it is sleeting outside started reassembly. Got a gasket set from I save tractors. Had a real problem getting the crankshaft end play correct. The set came with 3 identical spacers plus the gasket. Service manual says use 2 or three spacers then check end play. had this thing on and off 2 or three times but couldn't get the end play right...too tight or too loose (one trip on and off was a result of frustration...I put the end plate on upside down...) Dug out some left over spacers from other projects and realized they were much thinner. The Kohler and Stens are .007 the I save tractors ones are about .014. Used a mix and finally got play in spec. Object lesson measure the stuff that is not OEM

Guess you could get a front cradle mount for a mower deck. OR, you could get another .

Nice assortment there Robbie ...

Not a chance 'Apples...he showed me the mill and it was awesome. ...my bad no pics!! Too busy wettin my drawers!

Will work great for weights but need to come with shin guards...

I feel the same way about mine. Don't ask questions. Just be quiet and do what she says. I mean really... Kevin. Buddy. Pal. Who are you to go against what your wife wants? Another tractor? Another backhoe? Come on. Just do what she asks and go pick up another machine. Oh. And, make sure you document the whole thing like you've been doing so us other five year olds can look at all the pretty pictures.

Ya know what I do Paul is save a chunk of the old gasket(s), measure it, and use that as a starting point. Sometimes dead on sometimes a little tweaking is required. I usually like to go a coupla .001s on the tight side.

Completely disassemble both motors and scrap what can't be saved. Start a list of what you would need to build a motor out of what is left and then see if it is economically $$ feasible.

Ahead of TÜV i did some real hardcore tests with my Beast, to see if anything fails, therefore i ordered a Plough, but it was bit huge and wont fit in any mountingpoint i have. So i decide to reworke one of my 2 3Point's for usability with the "newbie" in the herd with that.... Rect. Steel pipe 7x7cm 80cm wide. The 80cm brings the option to mount eventually a second plough or different larger items. It seems to be a fantastic Basement for a universal Mounting platform Then i found a week before a 3Point for few bucks, i reworked with 2 additional smaller Mountpoints, that it will be able to mount different setups to my little Tractor. That was my Base, i used for... measuring 2 Lines from the Baseplate and added 5cm for the next Line. then i get the Middle and marked it also. Finaly i combined the lines and cutted with the Flex (it was quicker to reach, than the Plasma) So i have the basement for my work and put the 7x7cm thick Pipe in the Cutted area, - it fits.... So i imagine my universal Mounting Platform, then i welded it and while i'm in a hurry, i just blast bit color on it. then i have a small coffeebreak, that the paint can dry. A missed day is horrible, but nothing comes up without Coffee.😎 Now i have my universal platform as i like. organized 2 additional Bars, for a Rear Fork. With them mounted i'm able to move Palettes with rear Lift. Driving quick home and see, it my construct fits on the Tractor. Yap, it does and it looks as it where especially made for that little Beast. It was not me, if i didn't try immediately my work, so i mounted it and do a "quick testplogh".... ok, maybe a bit more as a simple testplogh... Maybe ... Ok, honestly i have a lot of Fun... Stuck? Yes if i try it just by 2WD and plough in fully depth 25cm it diggs sometimes by one Wheel but with differential lock, it will straight pull, but steering is strong, better to try another row... Also next row just in 4WD, without diff lock and - whow, how simple that works.... Love it.... no effort for the Beast and fun for me. immediately another row.... Upps, again.... hahaha. Oh, rows are finished, ok, try it again, to mixing the results better Heeeey, looks much better than before, 😂😂 I wanna bring this area to a potatoe patch, but without chemicals at all. asing before several Farmers, they work with vegetables, how they will do. Sometimes i hear "use roundup" then wait few weeks, then seed. I didn't wanna do this, no Cemical where i plant my Meals at all. so i asking for Advices from my Neighbours, the dont be very familar with vegetables but i get two ineresting options. I wanna do it just with machines, i have. our Farmers offers me some help, but i like to do it myself, with my machines - just need a bit of Guidance, how to prepare the floor. i have : a beasty little Tractor and a tiller (actual without engine, because it's to worn) The Tillerengine want run, while ignition Coil is damaged (had another one to improvise but the Outlet Valve wan't close as needed to combustion, so it have no usable combustion. The Engine was several years outside without a Sparkplug..... A new Engine is much cheaper than the original Spareparts for that old Engine. -a simple Calculation to me, order a new Engine- aaah, didn't tell even i have a small Wheelhorse with FEL, what i need urgently to transport compost to my small Field until my big FEL was finally Build. So about Hardware, i think i'm good prepared. Two way's you can do that, once remove upper line with all grass and grassroots, get fresh earth from a Garden Center and fill up your area. depends on how large you Wanna do, this can be expensive. if you not really in a hurry, plogh, then dig over by an motor tiller, Do this every 2 weeks, until all grassroots are gone and no grass comes up within that two weeks. then continoue another few weeks and enlarge slowly the timespan. it needs about 5-6 months until all grass and most grassroots are gone, then you can try to seed, or you wait for the next season to plant - just prepare this season your floor. what give you a longer and natural floor.... the last option sounds good for me, i decided i want try this last option. Any advices or hints in grass control is gratefully accepted.

A bit late, but here he is.

Sanding and priming / painting more parts today for the pto.

Everything I see says it is the M-Series of engines used in all 308-8 models. The 420-LSE and the 718-Z zero turn also got the M-Series in 1986. All other Kohler powered models used the K-Series engine. Here is the switch we think is used in the 308-8. Click on the picture for more pictures Garry

Outstanding work Rod! I just found this thread this morning. FYI, those rubber bumpers mentioned in post #8 are also available from Glen Pettit. I picked some up from him at Mentone and hope to get a few more this year. For those who don't have the equipment to make those nifty tie rods (like me) here's what I've done several times. I use 3/8"-24 threaded rod and the same tie rod ends. I then cut a piece of 3/8" ID steel tube (Lowes) to length and slip over the rod. Works great.

Looks like you almost lost your clutch!

Here’s a visual of what Jeff indicated... I owned a 682 and a 782 concurrently a few years back. The 6 on the right I completely refurbished for my wife to use but she wasn’t a fan of the hand hydro control. The 7 on the right I only owned for about a year. I had hoped to make it into a plow tractor but I never was real satisfied with it as a plow machine. So I sold the 6 and we bought Kelli the 523Dxi that we now call RED. Then I sold the 7 and I bought the 314-8 which has become GhostRider my awesome plow tractor. I repowered both of these tractors with Magnum 18’s and upgraded the driveshafts to the late model Cub CV driveshaft. As Jeff stated, they are identical except the hydraulic lift on the 7. It would have been cool to have the 5,6,and 7 but I have learned that I can’t keep them all...

Chances are you dislodged some trash in the gas tank and it has your fuel line and or carburetor clogged up. Flush the tank, use a new fuel hose and add a fuel filter. If that won't do it then rebuild the carb.

Almost Heaven lawn Mower Grave Yard is about 1 hour NE of me. The Facebook link is the best way to actually have a grasp of what is there. Tons of pics posted. I have never been there, but did communicate by FB messenger looking for a control valve for my GT 14. Lots different brands and very well organized from what I have seen. The only negative is they seem to mainly function using FB messenger a lot. I've never called the phone, so I'm not up to speed on that responsiveness. Also, they haul tractors several days a week, so the site isn't always open. You have to call for an appointment. I know of nothing quite like it anywhere here in the Indiana area......or the Midwest, for that matter. Down Town Bluffton, Indiana (260) 824-5087

I have got to get my wife to start reading this forum, I'm normal she'd the one that's off. I have the kitchen floor torn down to plywood for the past 5 months. Can't decide what to put down...don't ja know. One day she want's tile,next day it's pergo then something else. Who's got time for that, I'll teach her I'll just paint it IH red and clear coat it.

Update as of today...

We had M880s when I first joined the Army, then they got rid of them and bought Chevy's. I've never been a fan but these trucks were next to terrible. But part of the reason is the way the government ordered them. Building a 1 1/4 ton truck that is likely to have a pretty heavy trailer behind it, or in some cases a heavy body, with a small V8 (the 318 gas engine), doomed this truck from the start, it was way under powered! When we got the Chevy equivalent in the mid 80s, (the M1008 series) they had 6.2L diesel engines, so it was much more prepared to carry the loads intended for that truck size. I will say that the Chevy's had so much low end power, they easily spun when on dirt or slippery surface, so we had to use tour wheel drive a lot. Plus at about the same time the M151 Jeeps went away. With the change to the Chevy's and Humvee's, that replaced the Jeeps (both had diesels), there was no need to carry a separate load of gasoline, all the rest of the vehicles were diesel. I don't know why the Dodge trucks were ordered this way ? Was the government just being cheap, or were they hoping for low power to keep the speed down and have fewer accidents/safety? Heck, the Dodge truck name carried so much shame I guess they had to rid of it, and now they're called Ram's I'm sure glad that Chevy's are still Chevy's C-85