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Nobody sees me nobody knows where I am....

Total opposite of @WHX22 (You started the cartoon stuff Madge!)

Hope he stays safe until Easter, Then all bets are off.

ok, so with the exception of some minor odds and ends my frame off restoration is all done! what do you guys think? do you like my RED seat

Hi, today I built selfmade tie rods for my tractor. I used cromo steel iron bars. advantage: Use of tie rod ends => thus optimal attitude of the trace and favorable exchange of parts in case of defect. Unfortunately, the cutting head did not fit on my German cutting tool. That's why I had to turn the cutting head with a pincer, but it was okay ;-) Now everything is grown again and works great.

Not a bad idea Lane...make it a Leer Jet... Hmm wonder if the one Cecil Pond had is still around? Get Terry to make some new decals for it. The road I live on is fairly straight so would make a good runway. Use the cab lights on the 520 for landing lights. Weather gets cold fly down & hang with Ritchie. Take the Mafia with me case there's wrangling to be done. Stop by and pick up Kevin for loading the plane... oversize fridge for extra cobbler. Then again maybe not.... bidding is getting close to my max...knock it off Squonk!

I could have popped it with the 22 M&P from my living room, if I wanted! But the house was full of kids and their friends... we chose to look at the cute bunny instead of pop the bunny

BANG! One for the pot.

You in the mood to buy?

Thanks everybody!! Been spending most of my day basking in the glow of a nice warm turbo. Looking forward to heading home for a good meal & a little R&R.

Ok Cold engine around 30 deg and 30W in the engine spark plug wire off: 135 amps on initial engagement and it settle out at 115 amps .

Last night I put an air cleaner on my new 10/1276, then realized the fuel system is just not capable of priming itself after a couple days. Pulled it off, started it up and drove it forward/backward about 10’. It’s landlocked in the back barn for now, but slightly promising. Then I pulled Putt Putt in. It was HardStart, then NoStart. Not even PullStart could pull start it! I went to the normal things. Plug is soaked. Cleaned the points then set the gap to .020”. I didn’t check, but the gap was closer to 5 or 8 thousandths by the look of it. I gapped the plug to .025”, used a torch to clean off the plug, sanded the electrode, used the torch to clean out the cylinder, reassembled for still a wet plug. There was plenty of spark. Obviously there’s plenty of fuel! I stopped this morning and picked up a new plug. Champion was all they had in stock, so that’s what I settled for. A few pulls, some heavy smoke, then kaboom we’re Putt Putt-in’ again! Tink Tink Tink

My wife is always askin the same thing, "Are you looking at naked tractors again?"

I've enjoyed my time here but It's that time of year, I'll packing up my gear in search of riches in far off places. So I bid you all fare well.

I thought this was a family friendly site

The original company is still making these, mostly using JD's for the tractor, at least 100 were made with WH's, I've seen one at the Playa del Carmin , MX airport.

Happy Birthday Dan ....got you a teaser pic of something I know you want.

Another make a wheel cradle for it to pick up and move dead around?? No more futzing with tow valves. How's that for practical?

Jim: Is going to need an AIRPLANE HANGER SOON -To Go Along with his AIR HORSE!

Any pics of vintage tractor parts is a to us guys! Oh my wife is looking over my shoulder and asking what's with the green & yellow porn now??? She thinks I like redheads!

Happy Birthdat @Achto, we are all glad you were born!

Have a happy... and a drink on me Dan!

Bet them non calloused hands... really help with a sensitive hare trigger.

My gut hurts!

Hi Glen...good to hear from ya & hope your doing well! Let's not mention G &Y thingys tho ... you know how the fellas here feel about them! Only 100 tho? Figuring at least 1/4 of them might be in a scrap yard by now makes then kinda rare?

Yank it apart EB and you'll find they are common bearings and fleabay crawls with them. I forget the number but real common. Give her a good blow job to get all the dirt out, check the brushes and clean up the comutator and you'll be good to go. I got a good cheap source for replacements for them if need be.

Norman at isavetractors.com has them, and he is even located in maine!!

Hausenpfeffer…..

here ya go Ed

I thought you were going to try selling us insurance....

Not a problem. You will be amazed by the amount of available knowledge and the willingness to help from the folks here on Red Square

to my plow dog buddy... figured I’d include a pic of the old “dog” riding an old “horse”! Hope you get some of your birthday wishes...🤞🏻

Original seat pan. Original foam with some extra added. I buddy of mine who does upholstery work re-covered it for me. He does excellent work!

9 month update, my stack started bouncing around a bit. In fact, I first noticed it at the Big Show last year and it has bugged me since then. The pipe fittings had worked loose from heat, but due to the height of the stack I would need to pull the engine to give it a twist. I had a set screw in my brace clamp and the bottom of the cast 90, but those too had egged out a bit. Today, I shaved a bit from the top clamp on the brace, spun the pipe into the head a bit more and TIG welded the 90 to the straight pipe. A little anti-seize on the clamp re-assembly and I believe this will keep things happy for quite some time now.

Right Paul. I upgrade every tractor I have to 4 ga. Cheap insurance and most of the tractors we acquire have the original 30-40 yr. old cables on them. That why I always say, "Replace the cables!"

Mmm, I wouldn't fuse the starter circuit Change that oil to 10 30 for the winter. That 30W will pour like malassis when it freezes. The video shows it starting and running, is that how it is now or just for reference to the sound of the starter? Sounds normal to me.

Wander all you like your like a walking Wikipedia dude.. ...who knows maybe even stupid idiots like me can learn a thing or three.. They do they'll have to deal with me!

Happy Happy Dan I don't suppose they could build gennys without you today and give ya the day off?? I'll play hookie, snag a little cobbler, come get ya & we'll celebrate by prepping tractor parts for paint! Sorry...you don't get one of these till ya hit 60... then again...

What I liked most about this forum is its members have never criticized me for wandering off topic leaving me to ramble on. Thanks guys for having me but in all honesty doubt I'll return in the fall when you have ADD it's difficult to stay focused when there's still so much left in this great world of ours to distract me.

That link about valves looks to be a good one with, with a lot of info that will help me. Thank you! Thanks a lot, Richard! I'll wait till I get the valves/springs off & have a look at the guides. The rest of this is jibber-jabber, so you might want to skim on by: Machinist - The problem is that the machinist I went to today is an automotive machine shop in Andrews & he said he was swamped due to it being racing season. He said he can do whatever I want but it might take him awhile. I'm in no hurry and would've loved to have left it there for him to fix the valve(s) but I felt bad already about him stopping what he was doing just to help me, knowing there's a whole lot more money to be made from all the automotive blocks already in his shop than in this piddly 'lil 16hp. He spent about 15-20 mins with me and I gave him $10, which he refused but I made him take it. For a fella in his 30's, maybe 40, he came across as an 80yr old man that had been in the business for 65yrs. I had the printed Kohler spec sheet with me & I told him it was supposed to be 3.750 w/.003 tolerance. He grabbed a bore gauge & came out to my truck. When he first measured the bore he said it was well over that. Then he scraped some carbon off top of piston looking for a mark & found the .020 stamp. He went back into his shop & got another bore gauge attachment & measured again, several places, both, around & up/down the bore & said it was within specs and he showed me what to look for on the dial as he measured. My confidence in him skyrocketed. Last Friday I took the motor to another shop, that wasn't very busy, in another town in GA. A fella in his 60's broke out his handy-dandy digital vernier calipers (like I've got & already used) and he measured one spot across the top and said it was 3.756". Well, there's a corrosion or carbon ring around the top 1/4" of the cylinder. You can see it & feel it. I estimated it to be about .006" thick. (Since I now know that it's been bored .020", subtract this dingleberry's 3.756" from 3.770" and that means that the corroded ring is actually .0065" thick. - I was close) I thought to myself - "This guy can't be seriously trying to find out what the actual bore size is." I said; "Fella, I hate bothering you but I'm willing to pay you for your time. I drove 25 miles to get here - would you mind using a bore gauge & measure on down in the bore for me?" He's an employee, not the owner, so he's already getting paid & they were just standing around chatting when I walked in. Lo & behold - he turned towards his toolbox and as he did I could barely see him rolling his eyes. The old me almost kicked in but I held back. 20-30yrs ago I'd have verbally assaulted him right then & there. Well, he used a bore gauge & did measure in various places. When he finished he said; "It's within .001" of the top". After seeing him in action & his attitude I didn't have a bit of confidence in him. Now I know why they weren't so busy. That's why I took it somewhere else that came highly recommended from a small auto parts store owner. Thanks, everyone!

If you're twirling wrenches I suggest a hard hat and gloves with your track record with injuries. I've been known to run someone up at an auction but only when they hosed me a few times first. Happened this past weekend at a farm toy auction. YYYUUUUPP!!!!!!

I used to think the same thing as you. No filter. No detergent. The schools of thought have gone back and forth on this for at least 30 years but I think the most current Kohler manual shows that it's okay to use detergent oil. I do NOT know how far back that manual is in effect. Here's the part you really need to pay attention to: CHANGE YOUR OIL OFTEN

Ended up with about 5" of heavy snow today. Went around the yard with the snowblower first and scraped the driveway with the cinnamon horse.

That table in the back ground looks beer deficient. This pic must have been taken after @pullstart left

All that is a very interesting read, thankyou. Must admit a bit above my head, but informative anyway. Have a good trip and I hope we hear from you again sometime in the future.

There is a good chance that if the pump was allowed to run out of line with the engine flywheel it has damaged the input shaft bearing in the pump housing - that will also indicate why the shaft seal is leaking oil. At this point, if you move the engine ahead far enough to work on the pump you may want to remove the pump and replace the bearing and shaft seal while you're at it - or risk having to tear into it again. Spend some time inspecting those shaft splines and that engine coupling - as Paul said, they are a known weak spot and there are no new parts available for the coupling. LJ Fluid Power has new shafts available that they had manufactured - almost $200 but for what it is I'd say that's pretty cheap. Once that coupling strips the teeth out of itself and the pump shaft - the tractor is dead. Yes, I repaired one but it was at a pretty big expense - we added in a different center spline from a C-series late model hydro drive pulley and added a keyway in both the coupling and the splined pump shaft. Not a fun ordeal - I probably had that pump in/out 6 times before everything was right. Removing that pump is a very frustrating job - I've been a mechanic for 40yrs and worked on things that no one else could fix, but that tractor will make you lose your mind. It takes a very long 5/16" Allen head socket to crack those bolts loose that mount the pump to the hydraulic line block mounted just below the pump's head end portion - the bolts are on the bottom side and two of them use nuts on top that are tough to get a wrench to fit onto. There are 2 different types of O-ring seals in there, one set is a stack and it is no fun trying to install that pump and not knock them out of alignment. That said, if the engine is completely out it makes the whole job a lot easier, but it can be left on the very front edge of the frame to remove the pump if you want. The pump internals isn't too bad to work on if you have good, basic mechanical knowledge. I'd highly suggest downloading that Sundstrand manual and reading the entire thing before taking on anything to do with that pump system. Again, LJ Fluid parts have the seals, bearings, and gaskets needed to work on that pump - they also have the knowledge and know these things inside and out. Be specific and to the point with them - this shop is very busy but are a great resource. This thread will give you an idea of what you're getting into here - https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/32936-rebuilding-a-hydro-pump-from-a-d/#comment-283485 https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/54952-charger-12-transmission/ https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/52024-sundstrand-challenges/?page=2 Here is how I fixed that pump coupling issue - https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/72096-d-180-pump-coupling-alignment/?tab=comments#comment-685635 Sarge

That is the kind of shop you want to find. The fact that he is doing race engines speaks volumes about his work. Racers are a tight knit group and if he wasn't good the word would spread and he wouldn't get their work. This man loves his work and will make sure it is done right. As for what is behind door #2, that is about average! Chances are the valve guides are going to be OK. Overhead valve guides are known to wear because the rocker arm exerts side thrust on the valve stem, these flat head engines with tappets don't.

British Colombia but also fool around with urban waste, the blue thingy is a small centrifuge that I built to learn about various density's the heavier gold, silver and platinum is the first to be recovered then when the copper shows up in the bowel it's time to quit. The test tubes a bit if wet chemistry double checking my work for loss. Plastic tub above test tubes contains the concentrates if you look close you'll see the fine gold.