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Dear Frank, You know this blade looks awesome on ya. Love, Pullstart

OK - after giving it quite a bit of thought and then reading all the replies, which happens to be the direction I was leaning towards - I've decided to go ahead and tear this tractor all the way down and completely restore it. It may take me a year or two and I seriously doubt I'd ever get all the money I'll have in it, especially not counting the time, but I'm at a point in my life where I could use a good "project". Might as well go ahead & go through everything else while I've got the motor off. The tranny was working good 10yrs ago, but, so was the motor. Haha! We'll find out later. As for the engine, I'd prefer rebuilding rather than replacing because I'm a bit of a stickler about keeping as much of the tractor "original" as possible. Thanks for the exhaust removal & thread cleaning tips. Discovering the piston not moving after a long day of replacing parts, cleaning flywheel/stator, etc..., was quite disheartening, as I'm sure many of ya'll can relate. It's about as much of a let-down as when my high school sweetheart broke up with me. Yeah, my heart's already in it & so is 100 bucks. What's another 900 bucks?! Thanks, folks! I appreciate you all. Later! HH

The Cinnamon Horse as my new snow rig!!

As already said - the C-160 is a highly sought after machine and not just by WH collectors. When others see the brute strength and simplicity of this model - they buy it. It is not uncommon to see restored C-160 models go well above $1,000 if things are done correctly. Yes, that can be at or even slightly higher than what it takes to restore/rebuild one. I highly doubt anything serious could be wrong in that transmission - that model has about the toughest hydro ever made in it and nearly bulletproof. There is nothing on that tractor - inside or out, that has not been covered on this forum including the inside of the hydro unit. A good engine rebuilder and quality parts will put that monster back into service again and let it live another 30-50yrs easily if you use clean fuel (non-ethanol) and quality air-cooled engine oil. The one and only thing that can kill that engine permanently is running it on a side hill at a high angle - those engines are splash lube and that will starve the rod enough to cause it to break and knock a hole in the block. Some have been repaired, even after a catastrophic rod failure and live again - these engines are that tough. The torque curve on the large bore 16hp engine is extremely hard to replace - these are cast iron and use a very heavy rotating mass, no modern engines made today will match the K341's raw torque and grunt unless you swap to a larger diesel engine. The one biggest draw to the C-160 is this model's simplicity - no attachment takes more than a few minutes to install or remove. Minimal wiring, easy ignition system and easy to obtain parts - tough to beat it. The hydro drive unit will tow far more than the tractor can stop and with simple oil/filter changes will last a very, very long time. Even if parts break internally - the Sundstrand is not that hard to work on and there are excellent sources for replacement parts and rebuild services. Modern equipment in this size category is designed to be thrown away - the Wheel Horse can easily replace 10+ modern tractors over its lifetime and still be easily rebuilt. This is the reason you'll see so many restored/patina examples here that have been handed down through several generations - they outlive their owners easily. Considering that one belonged to your Dad - yeah, that's an easy decision and glad to hear you are going to put the effort into it. You won't regret it, and we're here to help. Welcome aboard, btw. Sarge

Happy birthday Sparky! I hope you have a great day... you made one young man’s birthday unforgettable last June... I wish the same special kind of a day for you today!

Found the elusive 2 stage on the 'list' earlier this year. Let me just say the rumors are true, it's a beast! I can't believe how well it works, and also how heavy it is. Prolly pushing 1500lbs the way it sits. As a bonus, the 18 horse Briggs sure sounds sweet loaded down! I need to make a clutch adjustment, it was squealing trying to keep up!

Really glad to hear you're gonna 'jump in' and restore it. I agree that that the C160 is one of the top most desirable horses - and that 'tough as a boot' 16hp Kohler has to be one of the best single cyl out there! And, you are right in saying its unlikely to get your money back. I usually keep a rough count of what I put into a refurb and of the 8-10 that I have done, on ONE I actually made about $50!! But, this is my 'hobby' - I dont fish, play golf, etc I just love to get out in my shop and 'get dirty' and my time does not come into the equation.

It was fun plowing with the C81 at my uncles, still need those chains though. (there on order) still what a little tank, and a good pusher when she hooks up. had a lot of ice under the snow. But at home. I have to say, I'm lovin my 520XI, what a beast, foot controls and lift lever next to the steering wheel. For just getting the job done a hurry, this is my new go to for plowing.

It went well last night. The plow is a 48. It's just the angle of the picture... Boy that 16hp is a bit of a beeaast.

All the Best, Sparky.

As long as you paint it RED!

Sweet set up you have there...only thing I would change is having a cab... I see you are running the OTR R1s on the front as well .

On time? Dude was on the tarmac playing video games on the plane while I'm waiting to get my VCR programmed!!! Happy Birthday Sparky!

Mike

Here is my version. Works great but it does squeak a bit. And here are the plans. Snow blade stabilizer.pdf Cleat

That’s too cool Eric! A “Mainar” with a restored working horse, a big blade, and a smile indicative of future fun to be had with this machine. BRING ON THE SNOW! Don’t lose your camera...can’t wait to see this thing working

Almost there! I'm amazed at the size of battery in this thing by the way!

Tri ribs won't help Cas.. I went to V61s thinking that would be the cats's meow but they still just skid on well packed snow or ice. I can't run chains due to driveway damage. Just lift a bit on the blower and things straiten out. My kid had the cab off on his 416 and was whining about the visibilty. I have no idea what you guys are talkin about as I have no problem with vis even when the front gets covered with blow but somtimes could see the usefulness of the hard front and wiper. Just remember when in the cab keep your head on a swivel. Especially with that beast in tight quarters. Good topside lighting is a must after dark. Do you have Matts pedal kit? Another must as it leaves a hand free for othe duties and a wheel spinner is a must. I have been long hooked on blowing with these rigs! Have fun!

This is the snow blower I've been using this winter a 1973 16 Auto, I must say I do enjoy that hydro lift

Working on the air j58 today just got it apart shall see what we run into

Finally there was enough snow to use newly acquired 520 with blower and snow cab. A little intimidating at first specially by being enclosed and not having lot of visibility since its a little tight around here. It absolutely awesome. Makes plowing afterwards so much easier since I get rid of most of snow rather than just pile it on the sides. It looks like the big Ariens is going to be retired. IMG_5831.MOV

That's why I built the pole style trailer. Carry 8 or 9 foot long wood up to 1000 lbs or so. Manual loading. We like to burn calories, then burn the Wood. This past season we learned that it's easier for us to cut and split the wood IN THE FOREST. Then bring the pieces up and out and stack them nearer to the house. The pole trailer will be reengineered to have a flat deck to carry split wood instead of logs.

Jeff, I agree,sometimes you have to go bigger.

Yes, and a heck of a lot of counterweight! Did you notice the didn't show the rear end of the tractor while lifting.

Happy Birthday Mike!

I see your below the Mason Dixon Line. Down here those C160 auto are hard to come by, a running one in fair condition goes for $600.00 to 800.00. so if you end up putting $900 in it you got yourself a nice tractor, go for it. All the help you need is right here,and if you would like some information in person, your just over the hill from Richard in Franklin, he's one of the best.

I don't think you can see the piston through the spark plug hole? Are you sure it is not moving? If it is lacking compression you may have a valve that is not closing. Garry

My latest experiment was AG type tires on the front of my 520 Snowchucker...does better than turfs...you could go tri-ribs but you'll have to drop a size and shell out lots of 💰...https://www.millertire.com/products/lawn-garden-tires/16x6-50-8/16x6-50-8-firestone-3-rib-front-4-ply/... what I bought.. .https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F332272998410.... @WHX22, Jim so far the weighted and fluid filled OTR R1s have excellent traction without chains on my asphalt driveway vs the Nancos and old turfs with chains.

Yah Kev these guys got the monster automotive type batteries in them. Tow valve is through the tool box ... wipe some snot off that decal right behind the hydro and you'll see it. That one is about as grimy as 1077 I once scored....mismatched fronts... everthing jury rigged.....hey maybe I better go check my herd...

Good eyes. I did replace the 6" with the 8" wheels mainly because I thought the 6"ers looked too small. I don't think it handles any different, but what I found was I get 1-2 more inches of lift on the plow before it hits the front axle. This is a real advantage when backing away from stacked snow and pulling up on snow to back drag it away from garage doors and vehicles. I also put the front tiller on this plow frame in the spring and the larger wheels give me the much needed extra lift range I need for the tiller.

Don’t tell my wife I used her laundry tub to wash out Frank’s tank!

Laid down the keel for a short frame and started up fitting. Bonus points if you can spot my screw up in the 2ND pic I corrected in the 1st...

You could always build a frame like mine and just back up over the log. Built for my quad but usable on a Wheel Horse. It’s a tremendous force multiplier when towing large logs. Weight of log is directed onto rear axle resulting in increased down pressure onto rear wheels. This equates to more traction. Cheers! Dave EC899CFD-32FD-4D41-BC66-F7D60201BBD7.mov

Ha, you're like me, "That can be used for somth'n." so save it.

That JD tractor is bigger and beefier that our WHs. Doubt you'd be able to steer on a Wh or the steering fan gear is going break. But how hard could it be to back up and grapple a log? A selector valve allows 2 circuits with 1 control valve. Just pull or push the knob and it changes which hoses get the juice

You should definitely pull the head and do a dicarbon of the chamber. At the same time pull the breather assembly to access the valve stems. I have had valves simply stick in the guide and a simple spray of PB blaster and a few taps with a mallet fixed the problem. I also have had valve spring keepers fall off causing a valve to hang open. These are easy inexpensive repairs. When you are ready, just shout and the experts will come to help.

Chris, I guess you have never driven from Murphy to Franklin. More like a couple of mountains, but if Mike needs a hand I could see taking an afternoon trip over.

You can see how tight the chain is by the curve of the tire around the chain. Another style tire beside the Ag is walk behind snowblower tires which seem to do fairly well too. Had them on the FEL tractor when that was a snow removing machine. (Now has tri ribs). But my preference is the roller chain since it works best for my situation. It appears from the video you're not scraping the driveway with the blower scrape bar and have the skids down low, so you can raise the blower just a little bit and steering is vastly improved because of the weight.

Nice! Spent plenty of time working on the dive-n-drive trainers.

Thanks for all the welcome messages! Glad to be a part of such a nice group. I really don't have any fear of tearing that transmission apart. I've had 6 speed Tuff Torqs apart, Peerless 700, 820, 900, 2300 and MST, Dana 4360, Roper 633A, I've been inside a lot of them. I did end up swapping the trans last night with the new one I got but haven't seen it drive yet as the wiring is all torn out of the tractor at the moment. It shifts into all gears and hi/lo perfectly, though. I will change the oil as I do whenever I get a new tractor. Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe these take somewhere around 2 quarts of 80w-90 gear lube. I thought at first this was a C-120 but I'm noticing a lot of differences between this one and the C-120 we removed my new transmission from. Maybe this is, maybe this isn't, or maybe it's just an older model. Any way to definitively tell (like a model tag, castings or stampings, etc?) looking for something more than just the model stickers since those have obviously been painted over. Steve - Thank you for your response and link to the manual. I believe I may have the service manual for the Wheel Horse transaxles somewhere. I'll probably tear this one apart this weekend and post an update. Also all you military vets, thank you for your service. Your sacrifice, hard work and determination protecting our country and freedom doesn't go unnoticed. Thanks for all the help!

I have a fan off a gt14. If it’s the same, you can have it.

Yes it is. I am so glad that "some" guy had it so close to me. As I was using it and enormous chunks of snow were falling from the trees above on top of it I was literally thanking that "guy" out loud. After all of these years I am not too concerned with marking pavers. Of course I try to avoid it,but after a month or two scratches oxidize and are not visible anymore. I am going to remove yet another link from chains and try it again. It is extremely important that I have traction in the front specially with this one heavy blower. Up front the driveway is very steep and not being able to steer in a thigh area with a car there is not a good feeling. I think I will give Matts pedal kit also a try. I love the hand control on the Electro since it is so easy and precise, but this one on the 520 is a bit awkward and insensitive. I still have not gotten used to it to the point where i am not making jerky starts and stops like on the Electro. Having a free hand with all of the things to operate here will also be good. Not really a good thing. Always worried about scratching it.

As mentioned, we have a section dedicated to literature, ads, articles, etc. For instance, we have articles posted from Popular Mechanics from the early 70s here: Here are a couple of ads.

Rims look great!! Patients is a must with Rustoleum, a good paint just takes for ever to set up. Looks like your making some good progress.

Eric, you have the same look on your face as that grandson had while hauling firewood.Be carefull plowing with that tomorrow, cold temps tonight snow will be haaaaaaaaad by monin.Dont want you to stove that thing up. By the way ,that plow is HUGE. Good luck with it.

I will be back to the place where the National Geographic’s are tomorrow and will take some pictures of the ads. I will post the year and month. As Jabelman said there are a lot of cool garden tractor ads in them.

You may want an xi series version...

I got my project complete 520H, Matt's hydro pedal and front end loader! Got to use it in the last snow and it worked great! I had to change the hydraulic lines around the controls worked backwards to what I'm used to, but the was no big deal. I can't wait to use it this spring on different projects.

Can't use metric ones. Wouldn't work on an American machine.