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I bought this tractor around october and did quit a bit to get it up and running. I took the blade off the c141 and let the 854 have a go. Even though I didn't put the chains on yet and add some more weight to the rear it did amazing well. I realize that it's a fluffy snow and not very deep but the heavy stuff up by the road was no issue. I amazed at how well this little 8 hp did.

753 & 1054 were both out playing in the snow yesterday. Already for the possible Big Snow we have coming to Michigan on Monday.

A job came up where I thought I have just the tool for the job. Despite it not being finished, I welded a makeshift drawbar on my project trailer... the job in question: move this 20ft telegraph pole up through the fields so we ended up with bogie that was strapped to the pole. and towed 500ft up the field, job done! video here:

Hey everyone. I have a all original rj58 and what I believe to be a original 701. I would love to protect the patina on them. I see some guys use oil. Some use clear coat. Ive never done either and am curious to learn about the different ways there are to preserve these tractors and how to do them successfully before I make any decisions.

We all have are limits but....... I think we should all agree that -26c (-14f) should be about it. After that my Jack Daniels starts to freeze.

My baby girls 1st birthday was last weekend (19th), but we pushed her party back because of the forecast (🙄). We decided on a Unicorn theme.... now isn’t this just the cutest “horse” you’ve ever seen?? Figured some baby pictures would brighten up this overcast day haha!

The transmission tunnel angle broke where the front of the seat attaches. I was going to weld some angle from a bed frame but it was too small and I didn’t trust my welding so I bolted some 2x2x1/8 angle to the tunnel. It worked pretty well and it was very simple. I just had to notch the left side to miss the parking brake mechanism.

When I seen Medowfied's long haul dolly axle made from WH from axles, it made me remember, I have a project out under a tarp that needs finished. I took two old frames butted together, welded, then cut a piece of pipe and connect the steering rods, made a tongue, steering linkage and viola......4 wheel, wheel horse cart. I need to paint it up an install some accessories, try to finish it this spring.

We accomplished a fair bit of assembly yesterday!!! I did something a little unconventional for a seat mount. The seat pan/fenders were/are in pretty tough shape. Dented up some. Cracked. Warped. Right full of rust surface pitting. It is however, still quite solid overall. There was a repair done in the distant past on 2 forward bolt holes to fix the issue of a cracked pan and possibly the bolts ripping up through it. Roughly 2" square pieces of metal were welded to the bottom to reinforce the holes. Due to my ummm... Stature... I need to have the seat back as far as it will go, and more. I used 1-1/2" square bar stock to be multiple things. It levels, evens, and strengthens the pan. It gave me a better place to put multiple bolts through. I used a 36" piece cut in half and left the ends sticking out the back so I can mount a small tool tray there later. Maybe 3" or 4" x 15" ?? Enough to hold a hitch ball mount or whatever. The mounting bolts on the bottom of the seat had pulled the square nut tabs clean out during disassembly so I had put (4) 1/2" carriage bolts in during the reupholstering. I also used (4) 3/8" bolts to hold the square bar stock to the pan so there's 8 fastening points now for stability. Note the sticker... We also attached the hood stand, fuel tank tray, and the hood. (Temporary pins). I just really wanted to see the tractor as a whole unit. Trina installed the wonderful custom hood sticker set I got from @Vinylguy Terry. I'm not sure which tractor will end up with this '79 Kenworth Flying Swan but it looks interesting setting there.

56

It's probably a fixed jet carb with no adjustment needle for the high speed. If you had "a bunch of junk" in the bowl then there's a bunch of junk in the carb. A thorough cleaning of the entire carb and you should be all set

If the previous owner of the 314 has anything else he wants to sell i.e. cars, trucks, livestock, furniture, boats ,etc., Please let us know. I have a handful of ten dollar bills and a big trailer. And Mo, to the

I had the same problem till I drilled mine out for a 1/4" Stainless Steel bolt and Nylock nut.

Hey welcome to the "Square"! First if the pulley is slipping on the clutch plate the clutch need tightened up. That is done by taking the R clip out of the clutch rod, unhook the rod from the clutch an turn the adjustment nut on to the rod. I like the adjust to be when the clutch is off and the rod is relaxed, there is about .0010 space or play in the clutch. Right now give it a turn or two, reinstall and see if that helps. That machine will more than run a tiller. I included a link of my neighbor breaking some ground with a 312-8 I had and it ran great.

Mothers mag and aluminum polish first, then a generous coat of Johnsons paste wax, buffed out to your liking will keep that thing glowing.

I actually had my short-chute pull the lift rod off the pin while in use because the washer I used was 3/4 instead of 5/8... the cotter pin was still in place, but mangled... apparently proper hardware is key at this connection!

Early morning pickup. Thanks @Rp.wh

We have 5 acres waiting for us. Just want to get a house situated first, then the arena 😂

Hi all, Please note, I am almost reluctant to post this- I hope it will be taken as it is intended: in good fun. To clarify, I adore Wheelhorse tractors, my first ever lawn tractor is the 1975 C-100 I bought when I was 14, I still own it and it is my number 1 most prized possession. I found this in a Westwood (a British lawn tractor make) brochure I own from the early 80s, and the tractor that Westwood is using as an example of a dated and useless machine is clearly a thinly-veiled parody of a Wheelhorse- in fact it is basically the same model as mine. That said, I like both Wheelhorse and Westwood, Westwood did make some tough and cool-looking tractors, however this is not good on their part, Wheelhorse is superior mechanically, which makes this all the more entertaining. I think I can like both but still have some fun at the farcical nature of this piece. I thought some of the folks here might enjoy debunking this

Personal preference, I do not like the shin that a clear coat will produce on patina. I have used WD-40, steel wool and some 400 Wet/Dry paper to restore some of the color without making it shiny.

It really comes down to your prefrence. I've always done the wet sand and clear coat or a good scrub down and clear coat. But have seen others use oil and different waxs and all looked great. I like the clear coat method mainly for the sake of storing themand use. Cause the dust and dirt doesnt stick to them. The oil method tends to gather the dust and dirt. I can't really speak of how the wax method holds up during storing or use. But either way we want pictures before and after please.

This the new '55 here Tom?

Flushed the gear oil today. I’m not sure how old the gunk in there was since the tractor is new to me. When I checked it I knew it was best to start with something fresh. Engine oil next on the list. The pic with the milk jug has a couple different liquids in it. On the left is my reward for the work. Unfortunately the milk jug isn’t the old gear oil, it is actually the diesel wash. Think I could have washed it twice, but I didn’t have enough diesel. The other pic is the gearbox gunk.

The smaller 5/8 washer will need to shear the pin instead of allowing it to bend like the 3/4 did.

I'm all rigged up. 5/8" washers, 3/16" Lynch pins, 3/16" pin, 3/16" bolts n locking nuts. I'll try them all! Bring on the snow! The old pin was smaller. I also used 3/4" washers prior to today. It was all I had at the time. Hopefully the new hardware will work!

You never know what has been living in there.

Smoke from the fins could be from something you might have spilled on the engine, or just general dirt. Good idea to remove the tins and clean out anything you can get to.

Very helpful... thank you It was my second oldest brother's tractor. He passed a few years ago and his daughter gave it to my oldest brother who is almost 82.. He has 13 garden tractors and can't keep up with all of them so he gave it to me his youngest brother ( I'm 73 ) So the WH has made it thru all three of us.. Just something special about that to me.. I'll end up giving it to my nieces son since my son isn't interested in this stuff..

@MIGHTYMO, I could hook you up with all of your Wheel Horse gardening needs, a tiller as well as the rare "tool bar" culivators disc and moldboard plow, BTW to fellow Virginian.

It's stuff like this that makes RedSquare interesting and more than just a Wheel Horse forum. When I saw that the K121 was built for G.H Tennant Co., I did a little digging into the company. They are a floor care company that started in 1870 and still exists today. They had walk-behind and ride-on, indoor and outdoor floor and sidewalk/road cleaners around the time that this engine would have been made. The outdoor machines were powered by gas engines. I can only assume that the Kohler K121 was made exclusively for one of their machines. https://www.tennantco.com/en_us/about-us/history.html

Naww....the guy that runs it is a real bozo... Employees are glad he's gonna sell out and retire in couple of years!

Hard to tell till the new paint is done?

First of all... to We don't run any implements here on the property so I will let others answer those questions. As to parts availability. Boy have you found the best place!! Take a few minutes... Or hours... And look around the site. You'll find a "Vendors" section that lists all the connections Redsquare has. Most of us have our favorite local Small Engine repair place too. The internet of course offers many. You can post an ad in the classifieds here on Redsquare. Please do post some pics of the tractor. We all do love us some pics... That Tractor is a good model and once running right will be a great addition for you.

Lost a few until I discovered the pin should be a 3/16" cotter pin used with a 5/8" SAE flat washer. Had to ream out the rust to get the 3/16" pin in but no more failures. A spring pin in this application gets pushed out too easy at the worst times. Garry

along the lines of a "patina" restoration here is a 701, I did all mechanicals and only painted the rims, all the metal was scuffed down and hand buffed with Johnsons paste wax, it really looks incredible in person, keeping all the original paint and scratches memories, etc.. something you might want to consider being you guys owned it since new. also I attached a picture of my 854 this was an ex pulling tractor I returned back to stock and I cut my grass weekly with it, all the red was buffed and polished and the wheels and seat were painted antique white

1974 C-120 Auto model 1-0495 - Tecumseh engine Garry

Preparation is the key to success. If the base coat is not made perfectly smooth the top coat will never be smooth. When wet sanding on flat surfaces like a hood top you need to use a long sanding block and long diagonal strokes. Use 600 Wet/Dry and lots of water. If you sand with your hand or in straight lines you will develop "Rail Road Tracks" in your finish. By making long diagonal passes from edge to edge and then going diagonally in the other direction you will achieve a smooth base primer coat. Once you are convinced it is perfect you can wet it and use a florescent light to examine it. If there are no wonky waves or other no-nos then it is ready for top coating.

I am sold on the Johnsons paste wax, I just washed/degreased, used a red scotch pad, then rubbed the wax in. I get more attention to that tractor than the other ones I repainted

I used 000 steel wool and windex and then I gave it a couple coats of satin clear. To me it’s the best way to replicate the original patina. Plus, it’s easy to touch up anytime you need to. Mine’s a couple years old and it looks just like the day I did it and it gets heavy use.

Hey everyone. I'm new to the site and have a few questions. First a little info on my tractor. Have a 1996 314-8 that I bought for $10. Yall read that right, $10. Everything worked other than the drive belt to the deck wouldn't fully engage and the battery was dead so we jumped it to load it up. Charged it up when I got home and it fired right up. I have tightened the belt with the tensioner but it still won't engage. The guy I got it from said he bought a generic belt so I'm thinking its too big but at the same time the pulley slips on the clutch plate. It will hesitate but not engage. Here are my questions, 1. Do yall think its the deck drive belt or the clutch? 2. Can a tiller be attached to a 314-8? If so, where is a good place to look for one? 3. Where is a good place to look for parts in general? Like new belts or possibly a clutch

From the same PTO that runs the deck, there's a belt (141") that runs back to the tiller, you need a rear axle bracket/hitch (that the snow plow also mounts into) as well a rear rockshaft and cable for rear attachment lift.

I think the wrong ignition switch was the main problem here. Thanks for help with that

My first . A 1974 C-120 Hydro with a HH 120 Tecumseh. And it still starts and runs perfect with no smoke.

it rained almost every weekend since July in nj, I so backed up on projects right now, for the house, tractors, cars. it stinks I need a month off! to get caught up

Almost sounds like the governor is out of adjustment to me. Might have been mentioned already and I didn’t see it. Check out an older thread “Kohler Governor Adjustment,” walks you through how to adjust the arm on the shaft. I’ve had this problem on a couple of the smaller Kohlers I’ve bought.

So...They riding RJ's or C Series or what??? Probably will need chains now...

Not sure if you still need these-I finally got to my parents' house in daylight so I could get a couple pics.

And here I thought we were just getting started 🐾🐾⛄❄⛄❄