Leaderboard

This is the Template of the FRAME PLATE repair set of angle iron that I've used with great success. No welding required. You will need to replace the 4 original frame bolts with ones that are about 1/4 to 3/8" longer.

They can be any model:

Can't answer your question directly but.. The K90 is probably worth more than the K91 I've seen updraft oil bath filters sell for ridiculous money so that's something to look for. Most I see for sale don't have a recoil starter on them so that's always a plus. MORE so if it has a Schnake recoil. I buy them when I see them at $100-$150. running. Have bought some cheaper but they weren't running. Definitely don't see them for sale as often like they were in the past. When you say " regardless of what it was installed on or how it was used??? ", some had 6:1 reduction gears

Finished tacking it up!

well. I don't even know if I should tell you folks this here but I don't see any problem with the above vehicle. Hahahahahahha not only do you bunch of five-year-olds not help me with my supposed addiction to Wheelhorse that I'm still trying to deny but now you have me thinking about building crazy vehicles like that. seriously though. I think the chances are nearly 100% that both of us will be taught to weld by our mutual best friend. One of our fellow hikers. She is actually a professional fabricator.

My first snow machine was a Little Dipper with a front end loader great machine that made some very large piles of snow these huge piles lingered long after the natural fall had melted another problem is finding enough space. Second snow blower was a Kubota two stage front mount that I had modified onto a Grey Mkt Kubota as a 3 point rear mount,,with the rear mount was able to make short radius turns and the snow was spread out over a greater area eliminating the huge piles. My current snow blower is a front mount attached to a Simplicity 9020, this is a single stage blower often refereed to as a thrower, the radius on my turns is much wider and have to maneuver several times to make the same short turns that I once mastered easily with the rear mounted blower. The Simple blower is very well built on the downside it is not an easy implement to attach or remove from your tractor, so I have dedicated the 9020 as a snow machine then when a Allis 720 with a front end loader was offered to me I had purchased this as well. The trails are for the wife so she is able to walk the dog and our tag along cat, and all sorts of game coming onto the property also prefer using the trails.

The fuel tanks under the seat came about in 1978 I believe. My C141 has the plastic tank under the seat.

The first under the seat gas tanks and rubber motor mount tractors were the 1978-79 C-series.

In addition to the sheet metal changes to the "Cs" in 1980, I believe this was also when the fuel tanks were relocated under the seat. IMO, this was one of two poor design changes WH made. It causes hard starting due to fuel pumps losing prime and restricts cooling air flow around the hydros. The other was the rocker plate engine mounts. I could never see a difference in the vibration.

My father in-law stopped by last night, he said that work has been crazy busy with their move (where I got all the racking for my back barn) but he cleaned up the welds on the fuel tank and started welding it again. He said it’s welding pretty good! I hope it’s back on Frank soon!

Just a bit snow today morning....

Ed, Cleat, Sarge, Jeff, Pfrederi, John and Oiluj52: I just want to go on record to say that should anything come of this thread and Eric starts another "Terminator meets Transformers" project you guys will be held personally responsible for his mental stability and financial well-being! He's already half cracked and has an extremely well honed sense of frugality. Suggesting he build a modified front end loader/snowblower is like giving a kid a BB gun and sending him to the chickenhouse. You just know there's going to be blood! Trina: Let it be known that I did NOT encourage Eric, this time. I will, however, stand back and actively poke him with a stick while he noodles on how to build this self-propelled snow howitzer. Cheers to all...! Dave

I hooked up the wagon to the 312-8 went over to the farm and cut some fire wood from a downed tree. I didn't take any pictures so I know it didn't happen, but a load of fire wood appeared out side the basement door.

Then there is this guy with the Briggs twin. Mine does not have the Briggs anymore though.

The under-hood tank on the C-160 holds approximately 2.5 gallons.

With tapered cranks that don't accept an engine an engine pulley.

Nice. We have a bunch of deer here in the woods. The trails we've been clearing to use the tractors in there are partially deer highways.

If you check out the postings people are asking more than $400 for so called running k91's and around $150ish for ones that are less than complete. The last one that I bought I paid $140 for locally. It ran but... every mosquito for a 2 block radius was instantly killed or chased away by the cloud of smoke that spewed out of it when I started it. I have not found any rebuild kits for these so all the parts need to be purchased separately "if you can find them". After spending another $300+ I rebuilt mine and had it running like new. As a note Kohler has been continually discontinuing parts for these and the after market companies don't seem to be picking them up.

I have a C160 parts tractor that has this large overhead valve or ignition tecumseh on it. At least thats what l believe it is. I have been wrong once or twice. I had considered trying to mount it on the short frame that your picking up. That idea was short lived.

Until the Christmas break, my son and I have not had much time on our Wheelhorse’s. We wanted to get our D-160 running, which is a bit of a rare beast in the UK. Now that we have it running, we have started to think about returning the exhaust to a more standard configuration. A while back I was told that a B&S muffler part no. 291519 works well but sadly this part is no longer available. I also need to do the same for our D-200 so whatever solution I go for needs to be easily repeatable. Before I start to either make something or adapt a car muffler, I wondered what others have done for a D-Series and/or what advice people can offer. Thanks in advance. My son has created a video of our D-160 which I would like to share

Sort of. The frame, steering, motors and transmissions pretty much stayed the same. The sheetmetal and a few other things changed over the years. A) The first machines referred to as a “C” series and were the same each year were the 1974-1977 units. B) The 1978-1979 “C” series looked real close to the previous machines with a few changes. C) The 1980-1984 “C” series were very different looking (same mechanicals as previous years) . 1984 was the last year a “C” series was offered. Machines made after 1984 were called the 300, 400 and 500 series. There were also a couple of oddball “C” series machines produced after 1979 such as the Gt2500 Anniversary model and a couple others.

He has the seals and all the goodies you need. https://www.wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/hydraulics.html#!/Hydraulic/c/23548048/offset=12&sort=normal

I had one like that I got from my boss. That is an older model that doesn't have a way to put the tines out of gear. I tried using it once and didn't like how close the tine were to my feet and legs. Sold both tiller and blade and advised new owner not to use blade. I have one now that the tines can be put out of gear, but don't have the blade. Here is a picture of the later model with PTO engagement.

All done took about 15 mins finished

Scored a 9' long stainless steel table top for 60$ that'll get turned into a bench and replace a tired old benchtop.

I needed that part a few months ago, and found one on ebay. It wasn't worth the trouble of trying to fabricate one myself. I think that there is still one available, brand new, on ebay. Good luck. Jim

Yea, Eric need to be prodded along. He also needs to take a course in welding or Honey maybe both. I don't know how well he has been schooled on Redneck Thinking, and Getting The Job Done With What You Have On Hand. I'm sure a lot of us can help him along on those department. I can see it all now a "D Series with a Ford 300 cubic inch six cylinder with a Predicator carburetor " 10 speed truck transmission, with duel 20" tires in the rear with a 2 speed rear differential. Help me out here with more ideas!

I agree with cleaning it well. I chiseled off all the flakes and washed with detergent and degreaser. Folowed up with a poly abrasive brush and washed it again,-- but did leave some "smooth" rust on [i think it actually bonds better to tight rust than bare metal if I remember the application directions] Just for fun i did the pathetic little MTD motorcycle battery holder and it came back nicely. Even some spilled battery acid just beaded up and did not affect things. Not gonna say whether or not POR is better or not, but I am guessing the 2 products are in the same ballpark . But a mower deck is not the space shuttle, and I have a few extras. Not knocking POR at all as I am certain that it is a great product.

10 to 10:30 AM. Scrape with 1995 520H. 1/2 gallon gas.

I used POR-15 years ago on one of my 36 inch three blade, rear discharge mower decks.. it is cleaned off once in a while but not every year ( but I never mow in wet grass). It is still propelling water and rust. The deck must be cleaned well before applying POR-15.

Using a sweepster without an air cleaner on the engine is dumber than dumb. You are going to appreciate the cab. It only takes me an hour or so to do all my sweeping in the spring...but i may be spread out over several days waiting for the wind to die down or shift. You can't change the sweepster angle. you think a face full of snow from a snow blower is irritating try a face full of pebbles grass and dust.

That Agriguard does look good but I haven't used it. I used POR-15 under my deck and after three mowing seasons it's still in great shape. Although many products say you can just get the loose stuff off before applying it's just in me to get the surface as clean as possible.

I was putting a Piston to Piston Sundstrand into a transaxle that had previously had a hydro gear. Should have been straight forward..open the case swap out the #5964 33 tooth gear (#27 picture 1) for a # 101885 44 tooth gear (#4-31 picture 2). Close the case and slide in the piston unit. Not so fast. Couldn't get the case half's to close up. After a lot of screwing around found that the bigger 44 tooth gear hit the Left Hand case side. I am not sure where the transaxle came from but it had worked OK with the hydro gear. After a lot more head scratching I noticed the casting number on the left side was I think 5967 (it was a bit worn down). All the left sides I have or could look up are 8047. The 5967 looks exactly like the 8047 and mates up perfectly with a 8046 RH IF you have the hydro gear input 33 tooth gear. All I can figure is the casting is thicker in that area than the 8047. Any one Know where the 5967 might have been on originally???

Hi, been a while since I been on the forum, but I needed to log on to get some help with my "new" b-115 I picked up for $25! I saw this beauty sitting on the side of the road and I just needed to have it. only issue is it doesn't have a engine and the steering was all discombobulated. Last night I got that all welded up and now I am looking for help, I need to get the Briggs motor that came on it now, I have had 0 luck with finding the right motor for it but I have found almost every part I would need to build one from scratch. They are all over ebay and craigslist (the parts) and would be expensive but nice. Any help would be greatly appreciated! (also am looking for a snow blower and a bagger for it, dont know if the bagger for it exists but would be nice to have.

61-10K801 is a 1976. The Julian date (6351) indicates that your B-100 came off the assembly line on the 351st day of 1976, December 16.

Thanks Jim, its been 10 years for me, but certain things still drag me down. In many ways it sucks, but it lets you know just great he was. I just try to be to my kids and grandson, how he was to us. Sorry to hear about your Dad as well! Randy

Rod is 3/8" x 4-3/4" Inner tab is 1/2 x 2-3/8" Outer tab is 1/2 x 1-1/2"

Not the first time we've seen that. I got a few tractors with that welded. Might have one off a parts tractor for ya HC.

To anyone interested, here is the GE-3 Long Generator Interlock Kit National Ram Electronics (69.00) This is a nicely made kit right here in the good ol' USA I'm proud to say! (should be installed by a qualified electrician/electronics technician).

You're awesome Dave! Hahahahahahahaha

I had a Schumacher all in one booster with the light/compressor/usb. it worked fine for about a year then started flashing an error code. which could have been the battery pack or something else. I pulled the battery pack out and sold the unit on ebay for parts and almost got what I paid for it. I just use a regular plug in 110v charger.

My friend did some great work on the hood. He filled in seven "extra" holes and fixed a few cracks. I then used a DA with 40 grit and a wire brush on the lettering - I need to find something not too aggressive to clean up the rest.

Have you found any implements not to work as they should with that brace?

2009 , your memory is still working good Steve!

8 to 9:30 AM. Snowblow 2 1/2" , heavy some fluffy snow, driveway and around buildings. 1 gallon gas, 85 degrees in cab. Light mist, rain now.

Gotta watch those...

Fill your tank with French fry oil and come to Pa.

Yes It does, I checked the oil put in some gas hooked up a battery and LIFE. However the carb will have to come off and be cleaned. The float is stuck open and is flooding the engine. It has a brass float in it and I tried to move it up and down to see if it would clear but no joy. I just bought a 3 gallon size ultrasonic cleaner for the wife's jewelry.....lol...so it will go in the tank for 45 min should be good to go after that.

My gen is only to power my house, its not used to power up tools on a construction site. In my case if I lose power at my house its the overhead lines and I lose the two hots and the neutral not the ground. My ground wire from my breaker panel to ground rod is never impacted. So I don't run a separate ground from my gen to a ground rod or something along those lines. Oddly enough I was weed-whacking near my ground rod a couple years ago and for the heck of it I checked the acorn nut and it was nice and tight.