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Found a few vintage sales ads from the 60s from UK distributor GD Mountfield

Well I bit off a big bite of 2019 already. Couldn’t let @Aldon have all the fun. Went out and traded in the 2011 on a 2018 F150 4x4. Wanted a V8 for towing stuff to NC when we move and something that could drag a little more of a load. So I stepped up. Love this thing already. Have to find out how to deactivate the auto start/stop. I’m already on it.👍

What is the thinking behind under seat tanks having a substantially large section where gas gets trapped and not used? On every tank that I have removed to clean, that area was full of crud and water. Every time you fill an empty tank , new gas is really getting contaminated by the sitting unused gas in that section, particularly if one is bouncing around while using tractor. It was puzzling me why in a perfectly clean tank I was always finding debris until I started taking them out to flush them properly. Has anyone ever thought of installing another outlet in that area and connect it to the main line? There is probably over 1/2 gallon in that section. I am about to do such modification.

Since Scottie started his new antibiotic on Wednesday there has been no relief. His bladder infection is causing him so much pain and discomfort. We have got everything that the doctors can give him for his pain and discomfort while we are at home. The next step is to go back to Rochester and start some IV pain medication and IV fluids. In talking to his medical team we know that Scottie should start having some relief come Monday. If Scottie and I are lucky we may get about 3 hours of sleep a night. Please continue to pray for us as we go through this. Lowell, Scottie, and I would like to say thank you for all the continued support and cards that are coming in for our family. Each day Scottie asks if there is anything in the mailbox for him. (That’s one of his highlights). Too see him light up when he gets a card or anything makes my heart smile.

As normal garage got some organizing and truck got some rear led lights 👀

Last year I built a shelf to hold 2 tractors on top and 2 under. This year I had to expand it to hold 3 on top and 3 the bottom. This frees up a bunch of prime garage space.

It changed here a bit... In last 8h...

Here you go. Just did it kind of quick and saved the first pics found. click to download. Stole June for one of mine own. Seasonal_2019 WH calander.pdf

I’m not so sure this monster will be wheelieing like @Achto Dan’s rat rod... but appreciate any and all input 👍 how’s this? The cardboard is starting to not want so much manipulation, but it is a general idea. You can see the curve of the seat spring on the side panel, it would have about an inch clearance minimum.

Got these yesterday, going to put them on today. Figured I’d share in case someone could get a use out of these too. ~35 bucks from Lowe’s, and they will fit 3/4 or 5/8ths axels. I got these for the Charger 10 for the time being, and they’ll eventually be used on a project that will show up here later this year. When they go on the tractor they’re intended for, we’ll replace the plastic bushings with metal. Ive never seen wheels that were sold with different bushings and what not. Either you got the right one or the wrong one, but like I’m doing, I figured these would be a nice “spare set” for people when you’ve gotta move or use a machine that’s got lame front feet.

Several years ago Oliver2-44 (Jim) replied to ebinmaine (Eric) in a post that a needle scaler would remove large rust scale for some project Eric was working on (when is Eric NOT working on a project, eh?). I have seen needle scalers used in welding shops to remove slag on non-critical welds. They don't do a bad job on heavy 7018 slag if you can handle the tiny indentations they can make. Being a tool guy and currently working to clean and paint the underside of the mower deck on my White GT1855, I started thinking about how to work smarter and not harder. Yesterday, I was looking through the most recent catalog from Harbor Fright and admiring their attempts to confuse me on their prices and prod me into parting with a few hard earned shekels. I saw two sizes of needle scalers and being just slightly less thrifty than my aforementioned friend in Maine, I decided to buy the less expensive of the two. With a 20% off coupon in hand I was able to bring the small HF needle scaler home for $25.43. They also gave me a free LED light to wear on my forehead when I have to go out in the dark to retrieve firewood. Nice folks at HF. Below is a representative video of the needle scaler doing what it does best. My attorney told me that I need to tell everyone that you must wear eye and ear protection when watching this video and be sure to read and understand the owners manual that comes with this tool. Also, be prepared to share the needle scaler if your neighbor comes home from work and sees you using it. He has a few mower decks that need cleaned up, too. Enjoy. Cheers and Happy New Year! Dave IMG_4876.MOV

She's running !!! Next step is to get some oil back in the engine and put some diesel in the transmission. Here's a few pics.

My C-121 (The Black Horse) and C-81 were originally supplied by Mountfield. Both being Belgium built.

I dug this project out of my "I'll get to it some day" pile and am gonna see if I remember how it goes back together. The bare frame had a little rust on it from sitting so I cleaned it up, welded a couple of cracks on the fenders and have all the tires mounted and the front rims painted.

One from British Royal family. princess Alexandra Ogilvy

Put the tool box and fenders back on Putt Putt and realized how dirty it is! Plus, how good it still looks “fully dressed”!

Now, that's a great idea Cas.

Hey there, Jojo, I was raised on the old adage that it's always 'ignition first'. That really doesn't apply in the age of microprocessors and today's complex engines but certainly does on these machines. Ah, the simple life. That engine is missing terribly. You adjusted the points but did you clean and file them? Is the capacitor good? The plug? The narrower gap gives the ignition some advance timing so you can ignore that fine tune at this time. Once you're absolutely sure of the health of the ignition, move to the fuel and carb adjustments. I read that you adjusted the exhaust valve back to spec so that's out of the consideration... Old machines, yes, so they can be a bother (unless you love to work on them like me) but the solutions are usually very simple. I'm nowhere near Kansas but would help if I could. Good luck!

Never fails does it? My daughters car just hit 100k and the water pump went out. Leaks coolant into the engine and you don’t know it till it’s too late. Needless to say I am glad we spent the 2k on the extended warranty. Had to put an engine in it. Would have cost over 5k to fix it without. Hopefully you have no more issues. Nice looking truck there also!

Spent 2 or 3 days catching up from page 27 of this thread... then took a ride on Putt Putt to clear my mind! something about that Tink Tink that soothes the mind!

Trim a little, trace a little... I think I like it! A mix of old and new, thankful to have a couple original pieces as guidelines!

Just checked in on your topic's and see the Stevasaurs made Moderator , I have not met Steve in person but his video on transmissions saved me when I rebuilt my 1054's transmission , now I just need correct tranny oil ! Seriously , I have had the pleasure in speaking with Steve on the phone ….I think he is Dr. Stevasaurus !!!

@formariz said, “I am going to modify a second one by eliminating that tank and setting a tank on the battery location like the older Cs. I will move battery to the usual position on the bottom which will also allow me to use a larger capacity battery with higher cranking amps rating.” That’s exactly what I did on Emory’s Work Horse and it helped starting tremendously since I got the new carb and have it running good. Almost instant starting like with an electric pump without the worry of failure with the electric pumps.

Of course! Need to get a 2.5" drive pulley for the engine, currently using an old C-160 pulley which is about 4" and spins a bit too quick. Certainly not as fun or easy to mount then the other implements, but I look forward to running it. Always wanted one of these things.

I believe I switch that cable, but through the solenoid. I make sure I do that tomorrow. That's a nice WH wagon. Going to a show this summer!? That will get attraction.

I like that truck you have. That's real nice build! Are you sitting on the motor?

A while back Jake Kuhn rebuilt my engine and tranny, they just need cleaned up a little and they're ready for paint. Thanks Jake!

I hope the best for him, that all of this suffering ends soon along with all the worrying and heartache for the family.

Got new shoes on the Charger 10. Once I got them on things looked a little wonky still, so after hemming and hawing between my FIL and myself, and @ebinmaine and myself we took the (left side as your sitting on it) tie rod off to give it a look see. Seems reseating it fixed our problem as it was loose at the wheel when I went at it. Since this one is in rougher shape than our 8horse, and I haven’t really looked it over much I was looking for visible things that could be issues. But I have a curiosity question: is this where the chokes supposed to be hooked in, or should it be at the hole where my finger is? Haven’t had any problems getting it fired up, I just happened to notice that there was a second hole marked “Choke”. *edit: The Misses finally got to drive it 99FF1B18-EA6A-466E-AB71-A68181FC8D40.MOV

I like the curved back Kevin. Go, go, go!

I'm digging your enclosed spring idea.

Enclosed, with fender in the mix. I don’t think it looks too bad being bigger.

Something like this would be nice.

If you want it, you got it... take a pic and work on my horse was a little strong.. not the best issue for my IPad, but i will hand over a pic. maybe next time i able to use gopro.

It’s in good hands now, for the most part!

https://myoldmachine.com/topic/2361-wheel-horse-sickle-bar/

here is a write up I did on it. Any questions, just ask.

Looking really good. Can you tell us about the eaton swap? I have a GT14 I am working on currently and this could be a good option.

I did put these in there but I got the idea from looking at some of the larger farm tractors that had headlights in the fender fronts. I though “I could do that” so I tried it. Came out pretty good I think. Pain in the butt to mount them. Had to cut the front out and build a mount. Like this👍

Steve, you and I have never met before but always enjoy your posts.You do seem like an Interesting character and it may be worth the 1000 mile round I trip to the BS just to meet you in person. Have two questions,now that you are a moderator will the pictures of you on a stick be avaiable on the RS store and is that really just spring water in that nice stainless steel mug with the WH logo on it ? Congrats and good luck in your new capacity. Jim.

@jebbear I used the picture you sent me of the harness that you built to make my own for the 867 tonight. @953 nut and @WHX21 I used the schematic that you folks posted a few months back to wire this thing up tonight. Mother Nature decided to give us some heavy wet nasty snow overnight so we had to spend some time today snow blowing and plowing which I guess I can't be too about in consideration that that was also Wheelhorse time....but because of that I wasn't able to get as much done on this tractor is I had desired. No worries.

We acquired this tractor about 2 months ago thanks to a very nice couple from New York State. @buckrancher thank you Brian and Jo. A few weeks ago Trina and I were shooting the breeze about what one of the projects we were going to work on and she mumbled something about... "My new tracta". Turns out she was talking about this 867 we've had sitting in the cellar. This isn't going to be a full disassembly and repaint at this point. Taking it apart enough to fix the issues that it has so that we can get it up and running and usable here on the property. It needs a generator lamp and an ignition switch. Drive belt. Fluid changes. Transmission needs seals. We had to change the gear at the base of the steering column because it was in three pieces. Throttle and choke cable. We will rewire it and get it back up and running and see how things go. @Mows4three @PeacemakerJack You boys'll be happy to know her hands were more greasy than mine at the end of this nights exercises. Here's a shot the day after we got it here. Took this tonight before we started disassembly.

And solve the hard starting problem caused be the fuel leaking back to the tank allowing the fuel pumps lose their prime.

boy am I glad to hear that. Can't have you guys that have been inundated with rain just drying up on us. Nasty rumor going around up here in Maine and Northern New Hampshire that we could get hit pretty hard with snow on Tuesday and Wednesday coming up

Your points also set the ignition timing so a little change can make a big diferance. The best way to set the points is to use "Static Timing". You will need to remove the S/G belt cover and belt as well as the flywheel cover shroud to do this job. Kohler static_timing.pdf

The wiring on the 310 is a bit less involved than a 312 and some changes were made from year to year there are few differences.

I first heard of the electrolysis process about 25 years ago from an article in The Gas Engine Magazine. I tried it following the article that suggested common table salt. I'm still using the same process today. Grocery stores still stock large bags in my area. The last 25# bag of salt I bought was $3.99 about a month ago. The ideal mixture is about a cup of salt per gallon of water, using just enough water to submerge your parts that you want to clean. Actually the scoop I use probably holds less than a cup. It came out of a large box of laundry detergent my wife finished. The brew can be reused several times. I usually skim off the brown, bubbly foam that forms on the surface of the water while the process is going on just to keep from getting in on the parts when getting them out or putting more parts in. I have sand blasted very few parts since discovering electrolysis. I find that the second setting on my battery charger, 10 amps I believe, and about 2 hours does the job. More salt , more amperage, or more time, doesn't seem to do any more for me. I have tried more of all, even leaving it cooking for 24 hours. All more amperage does is create more heat. More salt doesn't do anything except waste salt. I get great results as described. I recently bought a 275 gallon plastic tote to make a tank large enough for a complete frame or tractor hood or fender. I restored some hub caps for a fancy reel mower and forgot to install them on the mower. The hung on my garage wall for 15+ years and when I took them down the back sides were still clean, shiny unprimed metal. Don't be too worried about flash rusting. Evidently being treated will not cause rust any quicker than bare metal exposed. You do want to clean, dry, and prime any surfaces that will be painted as quickly as possible though.

Steve, we are all on your side here. I couldn't be more pleased with your appointment. However, we already knew you needed help!

This should work out just fine..