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For those of you you don't have one... get one!. 30 years ago when I worked on farms I happened by a traveling salesman who had a press, a engine hoist and a small standing bandsaw all in the back of a pickup. For 350 he let me have all three. I eventually traded the band saw for I don't remember but the press and the hoist I traded to a buddy for my current drill press. I never really had the use for a shop press till I caught the bug. Steering wheels, and other stuck things being such. So my buddy still has the press and never uses it, same thing with that lathe he refuses to part with! He would let me use the press whenever he is at his shop but catching him ther is a PITA. So in watching for the coupon at HF I went and got my own...hey the steering wheels are piling up! $185 regular and armed with a coupon I got one for 130. Yeah it's a over seas cheapy but I figure for a hobbyist. Pros: Fairly heavy and came with a heavier set of multi cut out arbor plates. Paint was fairly decent and resistant to chips. Some assembly required but 10 minutes.... took me alot longer to clear out the junk to place it! Fairly compact but good work space. They offer a 12 ton version that is really compact but I feared 12 might not cut it. Easily removable jack with handle case you need to take it out for that under the apple tree work! Cons: Jack is very slow ... pump to piston displacement means you have have to really work it to get it move a 1/2"to get it to the work piece. Stand ....While the frame is heavy enough the legs are small angle and are held on by four cheesy bolts allowing it to wobble a bit. Would be worse on uneven floors. The ticket will be to weld them solid, shim and anchor it to the floor. Jack handle was two piece and fell apart when you looked at it . Drilled it and put in a roll pin. Rather narrow apron ...might not let you get steering gear or other work pieces throught it. All in all pleased with it so far but will see how it does other work Handled two steering wheels easily. Feel free to show what you might have.

Harvest time in SC Pa. Shot this one at 4PM this afternoon on the way to my Grandsons football game.

Here ya go fellas feast on this.... 20 clams to have them mounted but since I couldn't find stems local they put in some choice ones figuring I might want to load them. Total bill with the show stems 30 + change .....flipped the guy 40 and told him to grease the guy that mounted them. NOT a speck of fresh paint off the rims!

The tobacco grown by the Amish in PA has a lower nicotine content. It is mixed with southern tobacco to balance the nicotine in cigarettes. Just another piece of useless information stuck in my brain, but where did I leave my keys? Jim

Thanks for thinking of us Mike.

Workin on one of the GT2500s today. Started by cleaning some electrical connections and swapping a battery out to troubleshoot the charging system. Then I took the brake band off, cleaned it and relined it with one of Bob Maynard's new liners. That's sitting to cure the adhesive now. Got a new magnetron could coming for it soon so I can get rid of the points. Eventually gonna flush the rear end on it. Took the fender pan off and cleaned out more dirt from around the transmission. Wondering what these wires are for. Red and orange nutted together and two greens twisted together. Just laying there.

I had the 12 ton worked fine. and was able to move it around. Finally sold it to my b-i-l.I really didn't need it. you want a slow moving jack for power. If it moves fast you end up doing more work pumping than you think and if somethings really stuck you'll be "hanging off the handle. Slow jack means more mechanical advantage. Look at the "rapid pump" floor jacks. They are 2 stage. with no load they raise fast then when the load hits they slow down.

The gear drive “Big Wheels” are in a class all their own. It makes me really surprised that WH didn’t continue to make them especially since Hydrostatic tractors were just starting in 1965. I love Dad’s Clyde the more that I use it and likely will get one of my own someday. Glad you found one...er...two...one...or whatever it is that you are telling Cindy

I will need to have my Duluth long tail t shirt on for that pic

Not to be confused with hoobie doobie which you'll find in the transmission section.

Well I went out to the Greencastle Airport today and spent the $75 to take a fifteen minute ride and it was worth every penny. Amazing plane for the 1920's! The ten passengers and two up front (pilot and co-pilot) flew around Greencastle . I was on the sixth flight of the day around 2 PM. There were 199 of these Ford TriMotors , (also known as the Tin Goose) made and only 18 survive with just 8 having FAA air worthiness certificates ! So not many chances left to fly in one of these so I said lets go! I sat behind the pilot up front . The take off was a bit loud but I have to say the landing was the smoothest I ever had in an airplane of any size. If one of these comes to your town I highly recommend taking a flight in this airplane! A thrill a minute! Here is more information about the Ford Tri-Motor passenger airplane. Photos to follow.

I had no idea that tobacco was grown in PA, always considered it a southern crop.

I'm with @pfrederi Paul on this one. Those breaker less ignition systems are well known to a $$$$ problem when they fail. They're also known to last 40 years or more and... Not fail. If your system is still working... I'd not " fix it " until it's broken. That might be ummm..... Pointless. I've saved a thread done by @Aldon so I know how to fix one I have here that actually is not working.

The 417A should have the Eaton 1100. One of the best hydros made. My 417s feel and sound as strong as the 520s.

417-A is a great machine. Chances are the voltage regulator is bad. You can download a kohler manual if you get it. Good luck. I love mine.

A usual watch out is checking the strength of the transmission. If allowed see if you can make the tires spin when the fromt wheels are stopped against an immovable object.

Oooooo, both of you guys are now on my insult radar!

I think the other two might be the clutch interlock switch, now that I've studied the schematic more. EDIT: They are. I can see that switch is disconnected up inside.

Seat switch on schematic shows two black wires. Maybe the green ones are black further back.

I'm thinking you're correct in your train of thought towards turfs because ... 1. You use that mainly as a mowing tractor. 2. Because you are not sure if you are going to use it for snow removal. If you decide to use your tractor for snow removal and you have an asphalt driveway, you should get a set of the rubber cross link chains. I've never used them but several of us really like them. I would recommend fluid filling your tires no matter what you do with them. Extra traction is a good thing.

Adding some extra leaf springs to the rear and looking into some hack job wiring today. As far as I’m concerned, those quick splice connectors are only meant for one thing... the trash can. They’re are a corrosion supporting mistake.

There are some test in the Kohler manual for the breakerless ignition you have. No need to put in points if it still works...

Take off air cleaner and squirt some gas or carb cleaner into the carb then crank does it sputter or pop, try to run? if so you have a fuel problem. No noise a spark issue. Plugs may show a spark lying on the head but not fire under compression they are cheap replace it,

May help Garry

Thankyou all for the birthday wishes, lads. Had a quiet day. Just me and my dog. SWMBO was away on a day trip and the kids were conspicuous by their absence. Sister phoned from Oz and sister in Virginia sent an e-mail. Got some seat time in mowing green and verges. Just another day really.

Most auto supplies rent tools and they dhould have what you need to pull those needle bearings out, which is a slide hammer puller. It comes with several different sizes of adjustable jaws which grab the bearing Harbor Freight also sells a set that works

The big thing with manual tire changing it to get the bead down into the center of the rim. I have no problems just using tire spuds but I have a shop that did two 23 - 10.50 tires for a paltry 10.34 including some for the governor. You can bet tbey are gonna do this pair of 6 ply skid steer tires I got. Best part was not a scratch or mark on fresh paint rims. In HF with @Achto this weekend and he pointed out their changer for 40 bucks... Shoulda bought one right then.

I only loaded it because I didn't think I would be able to out run you or the PO with it. Other wise I may have tried to make an escape with it.

Hopefully he continues to recover, he's a great guy!

The one without a seat doesn't run and might be just a parts donor. Can't count those only ones that run and drive. Sides I am over my count limit even with taking my shoes off. ....knew I shouldn't have cut off those extra toes! 😂 Rained out all day here so didn't get pics. 😐 Did run one around abit today to get it in a shed. I always thought Richard was a nut for liking 953's but now that I had seat time I get it. Steering was kind of sloppy and belt brake was a little bit to be desired but things that can be sorted out. Dan loaded it on the trailer so I didn't get any seat time when we picked it up! Thats ok I'll make up for it!

I have been monkeying with my rj58 today.....looks like im going to have to replace the brass bushing in the left rear axle, cause the new oil seal did not fix the leak. Dang it!!! So then i putz around the yard on it, brought it back in......then i notice it was grinding gears when i would shift from neutral to any gear, didnt do that before. FOUR FOX SAKE!! now what. So i messed around with the clutch adjustment nuts in the back..still grinding. Was starting to get frustrated. Came inside and google searched my problem, naturally it brought me to this site. Did some reading. Well my belt guard is homemade. Read that the belt guard helps to slow/stop the belt from spinning when is clutch engaged. To keep from grinding gears. Went back out, installed guard, and could see how that would help rub on the belt when clutched. Bada boom, bada bing...no more grindind!!! And actually in the process of adjust my clutch, i can now take off at higher rpm, and not pop a wheelie!! Lol...so thats what i did to my wheel horse today.....thanks wheel horse forum..., mike

Here's Glen's quote from the Wheel Horse Junkies FB page about 4 days ago: "Since my stroke last March, I’m not 100%, memory & coordination are still off ( stroke was due to stress, not heart - right side of head = left limbs paralyzed ). cannot drive anything yet, no WH’s, no car, can’t walk yet nor make parts. Last Winter I was making a good supply of parts for the WH show last June so I have. Good supply of most parts today. Expect to be at the big WH Show in June, 2019, and at Mentone, IN in late Spring. Got a really nice new item this year—a Wheel Horse tractor cover (it’s on eBay right now)$60 via mail or only $50 at the shows, be sure to touch it when your at a show, superior quality."

Glen is a great guy and I pray he will recover fully.

I saw a post on FB from Glen about 2-3 days ago. He said he was not allowed to drive (auto or Wheel Horse's) and was still on the mend. He had made a lot of items last fall getting ready for "The Big Show" in June, but his stroke fouled that plan. He is selling on Ebay. I know everyone on here is hoping Glen gets well enough to get out and about and make it to shows again so we can visit with him and buy his fine WH goodies

Welcome to Redsqure I also have a C160 and I like it the most of all my tractors. Here is a diagram I doctored to help me with mine. This is a basic wiring diagram. The colors may be different from yours but it makes it a lot easer to trace a problem.

I take them and have them demounted, but always put the new ones on myself. After you get the first side on, make sure you push the next one down to the center of the wheel. Thats the only way it will go on. Thats why the center of the wheel is smaller. Glad you got them on, the older I get, the harder this crap gets!! Randy

Those are some good prices for those pumps.

When I was about 14 we went on spring break to Manning, SC to help a bachelor clean out his mess of a house, in exchange for flying lessons and a boat trip all the way to Charleston, through the enormous locks and all that were up river. He was a family family friend, his brother died in an airplane wreck drop dusting a few years before locally here in MI. I imagine it was a Cessna or the like, but Mike taught my brother and I how to take off, fly “the pattern” and land. My 16 year old brother wasn’t too fond or being in the front, so I was able to get a lot of seat time that week. By the end, I could take off and land, with Mike the pilot quiet and his hands and feet off the controls. There were some cross winds, so we learned what it meant to crab walk into a landing too. That was probably the most fun of it all! I’ve always had an interest in flying, but haven’t ever been in a cockpit since that week. Thanks for sharing, Lane!

Here is a manual covering the decks that fit the GT-1800 back in the day. Click on the pictures The last deck they produced that would fit is this one. May show the installation procedure differently that may help. The mower lift is illustrated in the tractor parts list Keep us posted on your progress. Garry

Got one and it works great.

I finally got my transmission together. I actually did two. One has new bearings and a new circular spring and the other I just put a limited slip and new seals. I haven't had a chance to run the one with new bearings and spring yet but the other does have much better traction than the regular 8 pinion but it still doesn't want to climb this one steep trail on the property where a root sticks out into the path. One tire will spin on the root while the other looks like it wants to spin but doesn't. Is this because the circular spring is worn out or is it likely that I'm pushing it beyond its limit? I tried in 1st and 2nd and it wouldn't climb but it did go up if I used 3rd and got some speed. I didn't think to try the low gears. The other transmission is on a mower at a different property so I can't drive up the same hill for comparison.

Hey, stay away from Lowell and the Mrs. Nasty people! They have the nerve to make stuff we all need and charge reasonable prices for it. Customer service is terrible - for example, that crabby wife of his had the nerve to call me to let me know an order was on the way. When it got here, it wasn't even the wrong stuff! Quality was excellent to boot! So, like I say, stay away if you're not looking for good stuff, fair prices, and great service!😂 Thanks fir everything Lowell!

I mounted most of the fuel system today. Just waiting on a few more fitting to put it all together and clean it up.

She's nothing special, just a 318-8, going on almost 30 years old, with almost 2800 hrs, and has hardly given me any grief since we bought it new. To say its' been very reliable would be an understatement. It's cut a LOT of grass over the years,and I've never had the engine apart. Here's a few mods/repairs I've made. Since the original deck linkage and rubbing parts all have wear, it was cutting the grass too short, even on it's highest setting. So I figured one way to get it higher(without having to go through all the linkages and parts) was the create a 6th stop, or hole for the deck height setting. So I took off the deck height adjuster,and figured where the next hole would go. Drilled out the ends of the slot and removed the center with a carbide on my die grinder. Works great! The hood hood stop that sat on the top of the dash was a mickey mouse affair, so I make up a couple hood rests out of some thinner angle iron,and bolted them to the sides. They hold the hood firmly,and it no longer flops back and forth. The seat strut crapped out, so I just took part of a broom stick, measured from the bottom of the fender bracket to a bolt under the seat. found an unused hole in the fender bracket and just put a screw to hold it loosely in place. When I need gas, I flip up the seat and just place the handle under a nut,and that holds it nicely. Otherwise it just lays there. The steering was something terrible loose. So I looked under the hood, and there was a thin piece of metal there behind the dash that held the bushing in place for the steering shaft. Someone must have caught one of the wheels on a turn,and jammed it, taking that force back to the steering shaft and bending it up, thereby making the steering gears skip. So took that top panel off,and got a nice piece of 14 gauge steel, make a proper shaped (flat sided) hole for the bushing to sit in,and bolted it UNDER the piece of metal, tightening up the steering shaft very nicely. The steering block at the bottom of the steering shaft still needs to be repaired, but this made it much better, til I get to that job. She's taught both my sons how to drive using a clutch and gear shift. What better way to do it. After that the could drive our older 8 sp tractors and standard trans cars and trucks. The old 312 is in her work clothes, but it's one machine we never regret buying,and it will stay around here with us for a long time yet. Thanks. Frank

Remind me not to buy any Fords..

No problem glad I could help you. I actually wired my C160 with these colors and it is so easy to trace a wire by the color.

Back when Radio Equipment out of Indy was supplying the tractors to the speedway, matter of fact they also supplied them to us as a dealer and we were in northwest Indiana. We had a couple of tractors that had Whitewalls that they had sent a message to us wanting them down at the speedway. Seems the tractors got sent to us by mistake. They told us we would have to send them back down at are cost ! Plus it was up to us to replenish them. We offered to just send the wheels a and tire's, they wanted the whole shooting match. Needless to say they never made their way back down to Indy. I do remember the Whitewalls being only on one side, because on one tractor they were mounted wrong way on the front rims.