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I have my reasons, cause I'm allowed to.. Will be 71 years "young" next month so.....I do whatever I like. This evening however I totally lost it. I think? Went into the corral with my doggie, and waxed (Turtle Wax) my '90 520-8 while the doggie sniffed around. This Stallion works hard! Deserves a rub down. Now I'm thinking, "Tire paint. Why not?" I have a gallon (haven't used any in a year or so ). Think I've gone too far, too far gone? Guess it's WHA (Wheel Horse Addiction). Could be worse. I guess? Goodnight Deere ().

Score! $200 for a blower, a nice plow and ACTUAL Wheel Horse wheel weights!!!!

OK Jim, but don't forget the mid mount disc, the heated cab, and the infamous "Mad Max " front mounted tiller.

Not really an implement, but the front permanently mounted ball hitch is probably the best thing I've bought for my tractor in the past few years. With two boats, a sailboat, and a 5x10 trailer I'm constantly moving them around. I have a cervical vertebrae issue with my neck, nothing bad but turning my head far enough around when backing up trailers can be painfully. The front hitch works great, much easier to put a trailer where you want it. I put a convert-a-ball on it, makes changing ball size a matter of seconds. The older you get, the more you have to work smarter not harder.

These days, not an implement, but a good sized umbrella seems to be necessary.

Front mount generator... Winch - front, rear or what the heck - both... Ball hitch - front and back - for moving trailer(s) around Cup holder - for when you just want to drive one around on a summer day...

didn't notice this was available. Just subscribed. thanks

Here's the factory version...

Bob Maynard,a vendor here has the exact nine pin plug set.The price is reasonable and he is a good guy to buy from.I have purchased several from him.

The regulator is in the front of the blower housing. You have to remove the plastic Air cleaner cover to see it

Hello all, Took my Mossberg 500 out and a box of slugs. Its that time of year and I added a scope to mine. Started smashing 1 ounce slugs at 1400 fps into 2 propane tanks I have out back. Man it caves in the side at a minimum and punches clear thru 50% of time. I hit both tanks and they go sailing and crash to ground. I pick em up to reset and this little guy is looking out all big eyed going WTF was that! Lmao... session over, Ill leave you alone (unless you move into one of my Kohlers!) Tony

Got these Suburban rims ready for assembly.

Cleaned the gas tank out. New fuel and no gas at the carb. Took fuel pump apart someone had it together wrong. Now it runs like a watch .Thanks for everyone's help !!! What a great forum.

Karate Kid Master say: "Wax on...Wax Off..." You are not losing it...you are becoming one with the ...

I'm not quite at your experience level yet but I'm the same way. No ! Ya aren't losing it. You like your stuff to look as good or better than it runs and works. More people should think like that.

My name is Paul and I am a WH addict.. I have a problem. I have more tractors than I have needed implements for. I do not swap implements anymore each implement has its own prime mover. So I need some new different implements. So the question what is the most useful non-common (mower deck, snow plow blower) implement that you have. i may need one like it!! (Note my wife's suggestion that I get rid of some excess tractors is a non starter.)

Picked this little gem up this morning. Can anyone tell me what model this might be? No other identifying marks on it but WHEEL HORSE.

Just want to add my thanks to all the members that are so willing to help keep these tractors running. This one is a prime example of two members taking a few minutes to point Tim in the correct direction and possible head off a bigger expensive problem.

Welcome to Red Square !! I going to go along with Garry about your horse being a 1969 Raider 10 1-6041. I have paper work that shows both 69 and 70, but I think the transmission really says what is going on. Your transmission, with your model number, is a #5071. This a 10 pinion limited slip differential that is a 6 speed transmission. The 1970's went to the #5073 transmissions. They are basically the same transmission, but the model number of the horse and transmission shout 1969. Question for the experts. If your engine was replaced, is it possible the replacement is not a stator type engine??? If you do not have 2 wires coming out from behind the fly wheel...would you have points and condensor?? For some reason, most horses look like they have front wheels that need alignment. We may have a vendor that has the tie rods that are adjustable to straighten out the look.

Welcome to our world. Don't worry we have tractors come in in worse shape than yours. The good news is most issues can be fixed with some (hopefully enjoyable) work. Another pic of that brake setup.

Thanks pfrederi and Achto Found a wire broken, Solider and heat shrink . All working great now.

The dash on my 1968 Raider 12 after installing a new decal on it. The light switch next to the lighter is an add on. The volt meter under the dash is also an add on. A good source for replacement decals https://www.redoyourhorse.com/. This is where I get all my decals from.

doh I missed it because it's painted over. guess part of the mistery is resolved, I have a 1970. Now just need to find out with the serial number if I have the early 70's or late 70's engine model

Sorry Paul... not uncommon but a tub...I have no clue how the missus ever got yard work done without one! Not to mention how she used to haul parts from shed to shed! This is where @Ed Kennell throws up his pic of his sun canopy with the fringe balls! Talk about uncommon!

I wasn't worried about onedrive as I'm paying for it, but already edited my post to add the pictures on the forum instead. thanks Simon

Okay guys, we have a better idea where this thing is going and how big it may be. If you are told to evacuate just do it, trust me there is not a damn thing you can save, fix or stop in 100+ mph wind and rain. The only thing worth saving is you and your family, please do not take this thing lightly, even if you are miles inshore! BE SAFE!

And that big stick would be a .405 Winchester ,Teddy's "Big Medicine" 🤕

I totally agree. That tractor looks great.

Update... As Ewan has been bogged down by his university work I though I had better put some more pics up of his fab work. we can't get RJ hubs in the UK, so best way is to make them... I gave Ewan a template, which he cut around and we made our own using taperlock sprockets. we welded the studs in to make it easier too... more painting and panel beating! The hood was still in pretty bad condition, but Ewan continued to work his magic!

Hi, lots of questions .... I just acquired a WH tractor I've pretty much narrowed the year/model to a few options but I could really use the community's knowledge to get a definite answer. my guesstimate is that this would be a raider 10 1970 or 1971 but I might be wrong. based on the pictures, it seems like the tractor has had a lot of DYI jobs done to it over the years, everything that needs to work does, but it clearly needs some TLC. few questions that comes to mind - the grill or shroud or mesh (whatever it's called, picture 20180912_090712.jpg) on the flywheel/fan is missing. I'd like to cover it so grass doesn't get in too easily. It seems like the screw holes might need to be tapped, someone knows the screw size (I looked at all diagrams but could not find any showing this grill) - are there aftermarket mesh that fits ? - there is a box with a heat shield top that is no longer hooked to anything (picture 20180912_090502.jpg) any idea what that is ? - idle seems pretty high, I'd love some pointers on how to adjust it properly - there is a tag for the engine, but I dont see any model/serial number tags anywhere else on the tractor (20180912_090607.jpg) I'll start with that this community looks great, looking forward to be the one helping out. thanks Simon

Most of the time I "use" grandsons for "detailing" the Stallions. Meet the grandsons.

Its been stored inside of a shed for 25 - 30 years. I have some parts from another similar model. Took a chance on it and we'll see what happens. Thanks for the input.

This change was done on my Raider also. The previous owner did a better job though, in fact I thought it to be factory with a Bendix style starter. The two Phillips head bolts to the left of the voltmeter hold my starter solenoid in place.

Yuh think??!!

As to the finned box ...voltage regulator. There should be three wires coming from the engine two carry AC voltage to the regulator where it is converted to DC and then to the ignition switch. There it feeds the battery as needed when the engine is running. The third wire is the kill for the solid state ignition. That goes to the M terminal on the ignition switch. BE VERY CAREFUL never apply any voltage to that wire it will fry your ignition module a very expensive mistake!!. The battery and the DC system only run the starter motor and any lights. The engine needs no juice to run. Hence you can charge up teh battery and start it many many time before the battery goes dead.

What you have there is the Starter solenoid. Power is sent from the key switch in the start position to a magnet in the solenoid. when powered up the magnet pulls a switch closed and sends power to the starter motor to turn it on. This takes the heavy power draw off of your ignition switch. I also found a picture of my parking brake. While stepping on the brake you move the silver lever to lock against the band to hold the brake on.

Before pulling the fly wheel, find the voltage regulator/rectifier. Unplug it & hook a tester to the two outside terminals of the plug. If you have AC voltage on the outside terminals with the engine running 1/2 throttle or above then your stator is fine. The center terminal on the plug to ground (batt - ) should show DC battery voltage with the key in the on position or engine running. If you do not show battery voltage here then there is a bad connection between the key switch and the regulator. If the above checks are correct then shut the engine off, plug the regulator back in & start the engine. At 1/2 throttle or above you should have 13-14 volts DC at the battery. If you do not then I would suspect a bad regulator/rectifier.

Might not be getting charged so keep an eye on that. I'm thinking this may be a repo Dan so does a Techy have a different charging system? Thanks for bringing your pics here Simon makes it much easier for us to help you.

I have to run the supply and drain lines for it

Me thinks he may have a slight hearing problem now, to go along with the new ventilation system in his house...

If the bearing is an open style (a shaft would go through the bearing if the bearing was out) something you can try. Find a solid shaft that will fit into the bearing with as little clearance as possible and expect the shaft to get damaged. Half to 3/4 fill the bearing with grease. Place gear/bearing assembly vertical on a solid surface. Insert shaft in bearing. Drive the shaft into the grease as hard as you can with a big hammer. The hydraulic pressure created on the grease may force the bearing out. If the bearing moves add more grease and repeat. Garry

Tntatro, I just finished rebuilding the six speed in my tractor, and also had trouble getting those bearings out. My solution was to chuck the gear up in a lathe and carefully reduce the thickness of the bearing until it fell out. I realize most people don’t have access to a lathe, and am curious how others got their bearings out. I too tried to press them out, but due to the fact that those bearings sit on a shoulder, I could not get enough purchase on them to do anything but destroy the bearing housing. I wish you luck!

Since I was 14 or so,I've been a great believer in whatever I own needs to run good and look good. I call it pride of ownership. I think it's the German in me. So no Tankman, I don't think your 'losing it'.

I'm at it again. As stated in a earlier post, I made it to Portland IN for the Tri State Gas Engine & Tractor Show. While there I got my Lawn Ranger dozer blade. But in route I stopped in Marengo OH and bought a 1964 Jacobsen Chief 800 w/36" deck. (Had to have a donkey in my herd.) Than from the show I went North to Ft Wayne/Leo, IN and bought my 704 w/36" deck. This was a 546 mile round trip. If you have never been to the Tri State Show, it is well worth the trip, lots of tractors, parts and crafts for the wife. A lot of WH's to see. But take a pair of boots; it gets muddy if it rains. This was the Aug show and am told the spring time show is more Lawn/Garden equipment. I plan to go next spring. This week I went to Somerset, VA to get my bucket list tractor, the 1964 1054. It was a 744 mile round trip. This tractor runs strong had no attachments but was well worth it.

Guess it's also a matter of what WH it should fit, but here are a few to consider Hydraulic tip trailer? Power rake grader? Backhoe? Boxblade? Spike Harrow?

Benny survived blast off.

If your aim was better you could have saved setting yourself a mousetrap later....

Faster now that I changed the pulley and soon to be more hp too lol and also new wheel e bar wheels too

Yikes the camp Nazi...no thanks .... we had a camp nazi at the Edgar show that same weekend that made this guy look like a pussycat tho!