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My local Battery Warehouse will make cables for me, any gauge, and length, any lug size. Usually around $5.00 each or less.

Rule # 1 Hillbilly is never wrong. Rule # 2 When Hillbilly is wrong see rule # 1

Hello everyone this is Brennan Bo, Steve Bo's son since I am 11 years old I told my dad that I wanted my own account so here I am.

I have my reasons, cause I'm allowed to.. Will be 71 years "young" next month so.....I do whatever I like. This evening however I totally lost it. I think? Went into the corral with my doggie, and waxed (Turtle Wax) my '90 520-8 while the doggie sniffed around. This Stallion works hard! Deserves a rub down. Now I'm thinking, "Tire paint. Why not?" I have a gallon (haven't used any in a year or so ). Think I've gone too far, too far gone? Guess it's WHA (Wheel Horse Addiction). Could be worse. I guess? Goodnight Deere ().

Hello all, Took my Mossberg 500 out and a box of slugs. Its that time of year and I added a scope to mine. Started smashing 1 ounce slugs at 1400 fps into 2 propane tanks I have out back. Man it caves in the side at a minimum and punches clear thru 50% of time. I hit both tanks and they go sailing and crash to ground. I pick em up to reset and this little guy is looking out all big eyed going WTF was that! Lmao... session over, Ill leave you alone (unless you move into one of my Kohlers!) Tony

Benny survived blast off.

Have been making my own for a few years now. I buy good quality mig ground cable from princess auto, the stuff with high silicone content in the jacket. Then clean the inside of the lug with a little wire brush and flux it. Strip the cable end so about 1/16 will stick out and flux the cable too. Set up in the vise with a 5/32 drill shank and the lug and squish it down with the wire in it. Heat and solder fill till it comes to the top. Then clean with alcohol and heat shrink. I've done them without solder and never had one come loose even though it's not a true toothed crimp. Works for me

Got the call to see if I was interested in a few signs. Couldn't get there quick enough. Plus some other parts.

Jim you now win the prize enjoy...

Cleaned the gas tank out. New fuel and no gas at the carb. Took fuel pump apart someone had it together wrong. Now it runs like a watch .Thanks for everyone's help !!! What a great forum.

Welcome @Brennanbo. It's nice to see young men doing something constructive with there lives and there's nothing better then working on something that you love doing. I think holding a wrench beats holding a cell phone any day.

Was told by the son of the original dealership owner that arrow sign was given to them from Wheel Horse when they started the dealership.

I have the luxury of working at a place that deals with heavy electrical cables. I can purchase material from work or bring in my own materials and use their crimper to make custom fit cables. This Panduit crimper produces 6tons of pressure.

My name is Paul and I am a WH addict.. I have a problem. I have more tractors than I have needed implements for. I do not swap implements anymore each implement has its own prime mover. So I need some new different implements. So the question what is the most useful non-common (mower deck, snow plow blower) implement that you have. i may need one like it!! (Note my wife's suggestion that I get rid of some excess tractors is a non starter.)

Doesn't need a puller, a couple of 1/4 X 20 bolts will push it out.. Looks like this.

Local parade photos

Make sure the regulator is well grounded. A regulator that has a bad ground can produce over 20 VDC when the grounds connection is broken.

My bad ...bit of American history here EB ...in 1900 Theodore Roosevelt said SPEAK softly and carry a big lunch bucket ....errr big stick! I had to it!

Been wanting to figure out a better way to move dead tractors around - some, just isn't cooperative at being towed - the AC 916H is a great example around here. Since the rear axle is a hydro, it does not disengage fully for some reason and the tires are really shot badly. The 16Auto dug some big holes the last time I tried to move it around, so the idea here is to use the D's 3pt lift and it's size/weight advantage to move other dead tractors. I also wanted a toolbar that could have adapters added for various tasks - such as cultivators, tines, rear blade, ect. I've wanted to build a wrecker for years, just never had the time to do it - this year, I decided I've had enough of my aching back and legs - this needs to get done before I end up in the hospital. Always seems there is no help available when I need it, so now is the time - here is where I'm at as of now... All built from 1/4" thick iron, except the hub mounting plate which 1/2" thick A50 steel. Trailer hub/stub shaft is a 1750lb rated unit. In hindsight, if I ever did it again I'd use a heavier DOM tubing and just turn it to accept bearing races, make the shaft on the lathe and be done with it. Not to mention, I could control the thickness of the assembly a lot better. There are "rear tire carrier builder" parts available out there to do just that with pre-built tubing, the correct bearings and shaft - you just weld it into the square tubing of choice. Still a lot to do - need to make a set of centering springs, locking pins (for toolbar use), tire carrier arms w/tie-down rings, rear blade adapters, ect.... Just thought I'd share a bit - need to some lift testing today, hopefully. Sarge

Thank you it is a pleasure to be here

I’ve had good luck crimping with a heavy old set of tile nippers.

I use my ACCEL spark plug wire crimper (vise and hammer style) on those bigger lugs, I don't use solder and so far for 30+ years nothing has failed me yet.

Picked this up today! Been wanting one for awhile.

The joystick, brake lever, and drive belt tension release look like a 1988 or 1989. The hood looks to be from a later 520H.

Some of the knock off carbs i have I found the float setting to be wildly off 11/64" is correct

Wouldn't want to be without a loader again...

If your aim was better you could have saved setting yourself a mousetrap later....

Heres the lower plate. Didn't turn out too bad either. Don't try this when you're tired or just waking up, make too many booboos.

Several types of crimpers. I go to my local Mennonite auto electric shop and tell them " Make this cable with these ends but go up a size on the gauge." They mount this tool in a vise and wail on it with a big hammer. Then shrink wrap the ends.

Now Jim @WHX20 , employee theft is not nice. Having permission to use a nice Panduit cordless crimper with 6tons of pressure is quite nice though. The cable ends are fairly cheap, the tool to crimp them is not so cheap.

Sorry for the delay I am traveling in California. Happy Birthday my Sipping Friend.

OK, guys, success at last! The temporary setup with the washers worked fine, I was not not completely thrilled with the solution. I feel like it is not addressing the cause, but treating a symptom. So I tried the belt that is 1” shorter. I could not get it on! So I decided to make the best of it, and machined a couple of guides to replace the washer stack. I installed them this evening, and the belt now stays on the pulley. I found in my Dad’s notes ( he bought the tractor new), the notation the main dive belt is 81 7/8” long. I guess the 5L-820 is as close as I will get. I also have no idea where Dad got those numbers... Bottom line is the tractor works as it should, and I am happy! Thanks again for everyone’s help! Danny

I dunno if Dan @Achto willing to give up his secrets EB....... or his employer who has the stuff to have them made professionally..... hey wasn't ther a president who once said walk softly and carry a big lunch bucket?!?!?!?

Just the nature of the Eaton 1100s. I have them in 312s,417s, and a 520 and they all act differently. Like Jeff said, the manual states they should all be warmed up before use. Some of mine require a 5-10 minute warm up before the lift will work and some lift immediately. I chained them all to a tree and they are all strong enough to dig holes.

I have two 520H's. My 1995 starts and the lift immediately works as it should. 320 hrs on that tractor. My 1988 takes a long time for the lift to work. 1000 hrs on this one. When I start it up, I get no lift at all. In about 3-5 minutes, the lift starts working and then continues to work normally for the rest of the day. Both tractors have 10W-30 Mobil One in them and Toro oil filters. Lots of posts on this issue over the years. General consensus - it's just the way Eaton 1100's are.

I have a sundstrand in my C160 and I use mobile1 10w30 and even in the cold of winter the response is immediate. No delay at anytime. I know the Eaton 1100 is bigger and better but it should be almost immediately able to lift and go in the summer time. I do let mine warm up some in the cold only because the manual says to.

Late to the party but still best wishes!

Best bet is clean the fuel tank and replace all the fuel lines and filter. any auto parts store will have 1/4" fuel hose and filters. Let us know how it works out.

EB, I heard and can understand your advice. What do you think of this video?

Not to jump on you or others. The inner or smaller race of the bearing mounts to the pulley #1 leaving the outer race to spin freely. The outer race contacts the thrust plate #2 thus taking the load off the inside where the crank contacts the block.

Quite often a digital voltmeter will read all over the place with the engine running. Use an analog meter and recheck. If you don't have one, TSC Lowes ect have them for about 20 bucks.

Your are looking for pulley # 109967. I have none.

Don't know what shape the bearing is in, but I would consider taking this off.

Been using 90 wt gear lube for over 40 years, never had a problem. Always new shift boots if needed. Horses indoors almost always if not, wearing a tractor cover. I seldom leave a Horse outdoors except on occasion if a (deep) snow is forecast; i.e.: late night. FYI. UPS's data base proved to them, gear boxes "survived" three (3) times longer using 85w90 Mobil 1 synthetic gear lube. That's all UPS uses.

After reading your statements of your fire, I contacted my insurance carrier, to make sure I did have replacement coverage. I do. Thank you for the reminder. I hope all works out for you soon.

Some of the Eaton 1100 are slower than others, but the operator's manual suggests that "the tractor be started up and transaxle allowed to warm up before using" some others on here have swapped over to synthetic 10w30 or even HyTran fluid vs standard dino oils, also I'm a firm believer in the O.E. Toro filters but Napa/Wix is top of most other hydro owners' list, also be sure that you have the correct level of oil in the transaxle, if you have recently drained and refilled and didn't "burp" it while refilling it could be low only check level when COLD before starting, I like to start tractor during refilling and run the lift ram through several cycles to help burp it, if I have missed anything I'm sure others will chime in...oh if you haven't already hitch it up to a tree or something solid after you get it warmed up to see if you can get the tires to break traction, if so the pump IS NOT weak, Jeff.

Never seen he lighted arrow sign..... .great haul, congrats.

We had lots of fun. I loved watching the girl throwing food to the "fishies" and she giggled a time or two, as well. I loved watching this girl interact with these fishies.

Next victim is on the stand👍 Getting a set of wider axles, new seals, gaskets and paint soon. This one is going in the 1054 project.

Sorry guys, new tires. Couldn't justify the price of ag tires for just a trailer, the tri ribs probably wouldn't be too good on the ground with heavy weight. So I just got regular small trailer/boat trailer tires.