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Took the plastic dash plate off my D and thought I would give it a try on painting the letters and symbols on it. 1st time doing it but it turned out ok for a worker. Half a dozen flaws but whos counting. I didn't take a before pic but there was no white color on it. Some one painted it black, I tried to clean the black paint off but not successful. So I just re sprayed it black satin and began the lettering. I found Rustoleum chisel tip marker and a off brand point marker. I will take the lower plastic plate off and do it too soon.

Couldn't get the Horse up there - just a day at work.... Sarge

Clean the carb, clean the carb, clean the carb. It actually took three carb cleanings to stop the surging on my 520.

I've been talking to the owner of this wheelhorse for about 3 weeks in an attempt to reach a good agreement for both of us. Well, this morning, he called and said, Come and get it. So, I did. The wife and I went for a 3 hour ride, to and from. The new to me C120 horse is home.

I'm not really sure why I feel compelled to post this, and my daughter might kill me, but she finally got on the horse. It is a rule in the family that you cannot get your learner's permit for driving until you get significant seat time mowing. My 3 older boys had no hesitation, my younger 14 year old twin daughters have been getting some time, but 16 year old daughter has been reluctant to say the least. This has not been one of the forced chores, but a lesson in "If I want to do X, I'll need to suffer with Y". Well, the other day I asked if she wanted to mow, same question as all summer, and I expected the same answer, "No thanks, dad, I'm good." But, finally, she agreed. Took instruction with great care, listened intently, and did a great job. The 416-8 is not the easiest thing to master, but she had no problems with the clutch, or keeping the tractor on a good mowing path. Got confident going around trees. It was awesome.

Pictures from the Argyle show on Labor Day weekend, in Colchester IL

Get a grade on this...

A few of my garden tractors at the show in Avon IL

Two weeks ago purchased what turns out to be a 1054 { 1964 } Wheel Horse tractor serial # 42654 . Transmission shifts poorly , currently locked into two gears . I plan to down load manuals for tractor this weekend .and clean and split the transmission to see what needs to be repaired . I can't thank WH members enough for getting back to me on " What Do I Have Here ? " and identifying it as a 1054 . Look forward learning more from all of you members who have shared conversations on your Wheel Horse tractors . Manny Bartek ...AKA "Skyliner"

@Manny Bartek ...your 1054 should have a #5047 transmission...that means you should have 1 1/8" axles...the (what is called the) Heavy Duty transmission. It also means that you have the bevel gear differential. There is nothing wrong with any of this. The fact that you are stuck between 2 gears is not uncommon with these early 3 speed transmissions. To fix what is going on...lift the shifter boot to expose the Allen head (dog point) set screw and lock nut...loosen the lock nut...the set screw will probably turn out with the lock nut. If it does not, use a 1/8" Allen wrench (coming in from under the frame to loosen the set screw enough to pull out the shifter). Pull out the shifter and take a look into the shifter hole...You should see 2 forks that are not in line (making a square)...use a long screw driver to position the forks so that you are looking at a square...welcome to neutral. You can now roll your horse...replace the shifter and drive your horse. If you end up opening the tranny, you will see that the way that the shift fork shafts are made can create a suction when shifted and actually get suck back into gear while you shift into one of the other gears. It is very important to come to a complete stop before shifting gears with your transmission. changes were made in later years to get rid of this suction thingy. We do have some threads on this subject in the Archives, that deal with this. If you do open your trans, it would be easy to solve the problem by taking a 4" grinder and putting a flat side on the shift fork shafts so that the oil has a place to go and thus not having any suction. If you are interested in knowing all of this and doing it...let us know and we will point you in the right direction. This is what neutral looks like.

Well, mine might have 800 miles since the rebuild...

The hardest part of the job may be removing the hubs from the axles. There are several posts on this site about hub removal, but on the 1054 you have the advantage of being able to split the case,split the differential and remove the roll pin then pull the axle. once that is done you can move the axle to a hydraulic press. There are several threads on here about hub removal. This thread from @stevasaurus is great and will guide you through the process.

Maybe not what I've done TO, but what I've done WITH my Wheel Horse today. No pictures, but me and my D-180 spent about 5 hours grooming a new cross country course for our local school district of which I am the middle school cross country coach. The land, which was a former strip mining operation, was donated to the park district. The course was bulldozed into shape, but it was rutted, rocky and hard. Grass would never grow. The parent's group raised the money to have dirt hauled in (probably 150 yards so far). It was strategically dumped on the course. Then, one of the parent's club dads borrowed his dad's Kubota to spread it out in small piles. Rather than hand raking those piles by hand over the 3.1 mile course, I loaded up my horse and graded every pile into submission using my mid mount grader blade, then dragging a couple of recycled plastic landscaping beams behind it across the route, smoothed out all the deviations and made it ready for grass seed. Still not quite done with the whole course, but my D made short work of what could have been a long, manual process of raking those piles by hand. I wish I had an odometer on the thing. I probably put 8 miles on it the last couple of days.

. I will be going down to Norman tomorrow and will go buy and see what it looks like and let you know if I see anything wrong. The car dealerships down in Norman on the mile of cars are pretty trust worthy. Would sure like to meet you. Have a safe trip. If you like BBQ try Swaldys BBQ in Okc.

You could use some old cub foot rest as I did. Then I just fabricated a bracket holding the rear of them up and bolted to the frame. I made the bracket to hold them at the position I wanted. I'm only around 185 pounds and they hold up to me pushing on them and all the abuse I put to them.

What parts ya lookin for Slider ... I got that motor but another member has got dibs on the crank. Hopefully get it off the tractor this weekend and see what's salvageable.

Nice tractor you have there. Be very careful, these things tend to multiply like rabbits. Which is why many of us are here trying to deal with these situations 😜😜😂😂

'Nuff said below, I know I like my 520 and deuce...

Thanks to both of you , great advice and video !! Mcgrew , you are right about our floor jacks , I just picked up a second jack that I will put into a future photo . I was really sweating this tear down , your video was detailed but I will definitely fallow your lead on a " Clean Table " with basic layout and labeling of all parts ! Thank all of you again ..Manny

The girls have been helping me expand the chicken yard. We just opened the back snow fence to let the birds roam... I want to build a wide gate between the chicken house and the barn, then have a small back door for the birds. I have enough chain link fence that I’ll be able to bury 2-3’ back around the perimeter to keep digging predators out. Still want to give them a netting roof of some sort too. Oh and work on siding the joint some day, too!

Jim I will remember that the next time you bring home another '67and you become @Whx21

To get a better view on whether or not it is charging, Take a battery reading after the tractor has sat overnight. Then take a reading with the key on. Then startthe tractor and take another reading. It just might be that the battery is about gone and will not take a charge. !2.15 is really weak for a resting battery. Never assume that a battery that isn't taking charge has a bad alternator. Dirty terminals or a poor ground need to be eliminated first..

One thing I've always had a lot of pride with my daughter - fearless when it comes to mechanical things/vehicles. She drove my lifted Samurai with her learner's permit, ceramic clutch and no power steering with 33x12.50 Swampers and all (albeit through the neighbor lady's front yard). At 14, we had her drive a buddy's Ma Duece 6x6 ('74 White 2.5ton) with no power steering in a field, that one did make her a bit nervous. I even had her back out a conventional Peterbuilt out of the shop once - she grinned the whole time. My rule was simple - from food to everything else, all that was required is you at least try - she was reluctant a lot but learned a lot of things in the end. I say it's a good thing, although the Demo Derby made Dad a bit nervous last weekend, lol....she wants to do that again! Sarge

I've worked on many vintage cars and full size tractors but have never worked on one so clean ...no rust !! Tractor was owned by a 98 year old who cleared all neighbors snow and dirt work as a favor to them . He was a city farmer for sure ...

Sorry guys and Karen I got more use for the tub....'sides I'm saving for the Holy Grail.... a Senior or a C-160!

My other project this winter besides the flood tractors was building a stainless steel sickle bar mower for my 854 I'll post some pic's with it on the tractor tomorrow Brian

Steve, I can understand how you can get Kevin and I confused, other than the 25 + years difference in age, the 100 + pounds weight difference and the color of the beard and hair, we could be twins.

Four heads are better than One! The next Mount Rushmore, @giddyap, @Achto, @Coulter Caleb & myself getting out of the rain @ the big show 2018. I think @PeacemakerJack is behind the camera.

My co pilot lol

I like that "family rule" you have there...it makes a lot of since, cents, sense. BTW, that is an excellent picture.

Big ol butts .... lol

28,000 MILES ON THE OLD GIRL NOW......

So Tail-End Thursday seemed a bit redundant since so many of us posted tail shots of our tractors for Wheels & Tires Wednesday. I think Thursday is gonna have a couple themes. Let's call this one Team Shots Thursday AND Tail-End Thursday! Post up pics of all your machines lined up (like a team). I know, it's a tall order with short notice but I also know we all have these kinds of pics stashed away...I know I do!! Of course we still want pics of your Tail End (tractors only guys! This includes you @squonk !) Got a cool rear? Maybe a nice 3 point? Custom hitch? Post em up!

I have the manual and have adjusted the governor accordingly (loosen governor arm, rotate governor shaft counterclockwise, pull governor arm and linkage away from carb, tighten governor arm bolt). Have done this on all of my other K181s as well, so am familiar with the procedure. Linkages are correctly in place, same as on 6+ other K181s I have. I have not rebuilt this engine. It came without a carb, fuel pump, starter, or coil, so I put those on mostly with replacements I had on hand (except for new carb). BUT.....as mentioned above, I have now put two different carbs on this engine and it runs virtually the same with both carbs. New gaskets, too. Based on that, I’m now of the opinion that having both carbs dysfunctional in exactly the same fashion is probably not likely. Your suggestions are well taken, though, so will go ahead and check for the leaks you suggest may exist. Earlier this evening, I did some more research into how incorrect valve clearances can and do cause some of the issues I am seeing here, including spitting fuel out the carb’s throat, lack of power, etc. I don’t mind pulling the carb again (have done it at least a half dozen times in the past two days) to readily access the valves for the purpose of checking clearance. If they are within specs and no broken parts (still want to figure out what the clangy noise is, too), then will go ahead and remove the head for further inspection. Having a valve out of spec by a couple of thousandths I don’t worry about. But, If one or both are out of spec considerably more, lets say ten thousandths, that will need to be fixed by taking the engine into the machine shop, as the K181 does not have adjusters on the valves. They must be machined or ground to spec using equipment I do not have. It’s the one feature of the K181 that Kohler skimped on, as the large block engines, beginning with K241 on up all had manually adjustable valves. Regardless, the K181 is a great engine, light and powerful, plus it sure makes for easier steering due to it’s relatively light weight. The plusses far outweigh the minuses on this engine, IMO.

Me and my filthy kids, they’ve been running me posts with ‘Barney helping me work on the “chicken coook”

Midnight farmer ? Just kidding, have fun with it. You get to find all the rocks and tree roots you never knew you had.

I ditched the original steering wheel today and shortened the shaft up to lower the new one down some. I added a quick release for a race car because it fits the build well. If anyone is interested in the original one pm me.

I think they had a 15x7 rim, but I am not sure as mine does not the original rims. You can squeeze those 10.50's on a 7" rim though. Randy

With proper spacing n brackets any engine is a possibility..... But you probably better go with The Predator.