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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/04/2018 in Posts

  1. 8 points
    Just a few of the signs.... Feel free to add yours to the list.
  2. 6 points
    Did this in 2009. Time flies. not a lot of pics but guys ask generic questions when building these. Used PK drawings but 3/16" steel instead of 1/4". Bucket is a scoop hybrid that the guy who welded everything recommended. Frame is a PK copy and clamps onto the tractor frame. Towers are the hydraulic tank. Arms are very heavy! Grease fittings in the pivot points. bucket: finished product First show Memorial Day 2009 Delivered a WH mower deck at the Steam Pageant.
  3. 6 points
  4. 5 points
    That’s just completely ridiculous and obnoxious. I like it!!!
  5. 5 points
    Always do that first. The issue may also be a bad starter relay or solenoid. The click sound is the coil in the relay or solenoid closing a switch to energize the starter. After time the contacts on these switches get burn spots on them & will no longer make a good contact. The starter relay should be mounted under your battery tray, when you turn the key this relay closes & sends power to the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid is mounted on the starter, when the solenoid closes it sends power to the starter motor. If you are not hearing / feeling the click at the starter motor, then I would investigate the relay under the battery tray. If you can hear / feel the click at the starter, then I would suspect that the solenoid on the starter may be bad.
  6. 5 points
    Primarily setting the depth of the plow in the soil. If your tractor is set up with a stop like a strong arm (manual lift) tractor does, then you can dial that to the exact height that works for your conditions and it keeps a consistent depth. If you have a tractor that doesn’t have an adjustable stop, then you find yourself constantly playing with the lift to get the right depth. A land wheel, lets you drop it and go! Dad’s Clyde has hydraulic lift with no provision for a depth stop...so he built a super cool adjustable land wheel that works great. It allows him to adjust for conditions yet drop the plow all the way at the beginning of each furrow. It works really well! Funny story about that—early on in my plowing experience, I had set up a CC682 for plowing. It was a hydro with a Magnum 18 and I used it with my first plow, an old style “flat beam” 10” Brinly. It didn’t take me long to get the hang of it because the soil conditions were nearly perfect on harvested wheat ground. I decided to open it up a bit and was doing about 5mph when I heard this loud BANG! The whole tractor jumped and lurched forward. I quickly looked behind me and saw a 50# rock sitting up beside my furrow. It did a number on my upper adjuster turning the threaded rod into an “S”! Lesson learned: Rocks, Suck points on plows, and speed don’t make a good cocktail!
  7. 4 points
    I bought an 857 at the big show that most guys said belonged to a set of stirrups originally but came with running boards... it doesn’t have the second round bar out back but considering her weight, I doubt that is a concern. The rear of the running board bolts to the front fender support/latch bar.
  8. 4 points
    I don’t have any pics of this bracket since the trans was rebuilt, but this pic may help. The bracket is a little hard to see, as WH had a habit of painting everything red! I will make some better pictures tomorrow, as it looks like I will be replacing the drive belt that came off twice tonight... The bracket clamps to the left side of the axle housing using the U bolt, and has a secondary attachment on the 3/4 inch diameter pin that holds the hitches.
  9. 4 points
  10. 3 points
    recently picking up a 312-8 ,in addition to wanting to recover a lot of areas of neglect, the main thing was the loose noise this rig made, like a rock in a garbage can. lower front hood pin, swing hinge, removed that and replaced with 2 5/16 x1x1/2" bolts with 2 fender washers on each bolt and elastic nuts , result ? silence. next rebuilt the pto lever rod assembly, I was going to replace the steering rod shaft bearing with a two bolt flange bearing , so I was there anyway. that pto set up was a rattling mess , made up some Teflon washers and spacers and that is smooth and silent, no noise. added a soft extension spring to the rattling clevis pin on the pto curved arm to bottom of arm mount pin, silence. I just love bringing this thing back . my old c-85 has been upgraded the same way, on to the next service area, pete
  11. 3 points
    This came in one of the totes of parts I recently purchased. Not exactly sure what it's for. So if anyone knows please fill me in.
  12. 3 points
    You shouldn't have any issues running wheel weights. Wheel weights are probably one of the best ways to add weight to your tractor and or filling the tires with liquid ballast. One of my tractors is over loaded with weight which hangs on the frame. That adds much more abuse than weight added directly to the tires. Never had it weighed but there's a FEL and a backhoe hanging on it since 2008.
  13. 3 points
  14. 3 points
    I went ahead and pinned this, but I think it should end up in the "Reference section" after it runs it's course.
  15. 3 points
    Did she raise your life insurance at the same time?😀 Looking good!
  16. 3 points
    Thank you. My wife made the decal. Has one on the engine too
  17. 3 points
    Can we have a bit more information please? Is this a new problem on a previously good working deck? Had the belt been tightened prior to the problem occurring? Had the deck or mule drive been removed or the belt replaced recently? Are the idler pulleys on the mule drive turning freely?
  18. 3 points
    Are you talking about the running boards that started being used in '68 or '69? If that is it all you need is a second piece of 3/4" round stock on each side near the back of the running boards to support them.
  19. 3 points
    The striped wire is positive.
  20. 3 points
    I chased a few issues on my GT14 at the weekend. Finally I thought solenoid... so ran a jumper from the battery to the starter - nothing! Undid and tightened a few engine bolts and voila! it was a poor earth, solenoid was clicking, but not a good enough ground for the starter to spin!
  21. 3 points
    Me and the misses dancing for our Family. I made my regalia. Lakota from Eagle Butte, S.D.
  22. 3 points
    I really enjoy this thread. A great way to enjoy the morning. Drinking coffee and watching wheel horse tractor turning over some dirt.
  23. 3 points
    Finally! A question I can answer! That is the bracket used to mount an electric lift mechanism to a six or eight speed transmission. I just cleaned mine up and mounted it on my Raider 10.
  24. 3 points
    It is one of the brackets for an electric lift for a clevis hitch
  25. 3 points
  26. 3 points
    Well it’s home. Meet “Hank”. Deck is as solid as it gets plus no dents or rust whatsoever. I have to find some way to get the hood and grille back to the original patina. I do have the side covers off of the 1054 that are original so they may get used on this one. I Want to keep it original at this point.
  27. 3 points
    It's been kind of hit and miss getting time to work on it but...... I did find a steering wheel for richmandred1that cleaned up really nice. Broke down the engine so I could send it out to the machine shop. The hobbs meter on it said 1823.7 but I found out it was broken so not sure how much time it has on the engine. It had a STD piston and like I said earlier it ran real nice without any smoke!?! The blast cabinet has been getting a workout. Lots of little parts and a couple of bigger ones. And a new set of drag links
  28. 3 points
    I changed the back rims/tires out for the ones off the Baby Farm tractor project so I get this one to roll. Fronts I think I'll have to buy a new cheap set of garden cart wheels/tires. I like the look of these 6/12 AG's much better than the 8.5 x 12 turfs that were on there.
  29. 3 points
    Made up a set of NHRA approved wheelie bars today.
  30. 2 points
    I just got an electric fuel pump for my 520-HC off eBay and didn't get ant instructions for the wiring. Which is positive and which is negative? One wire is all black and the other is blue with a white stripe. https://www.ebay.com/itm/141845126993
  31. 2 points
    @WHrookie all of us started the same way knowing nothing about these wheel horse tractors. I read a lot of the posts here just to learn from others problems. Great people here that's why I stayed.
  32. 2 points
    I can’t keep a thread on track to save my life. Guess it would be boring then wouldn’t it. I don’t know how I keep getting the multi colored ones. Guess you northern guys send all your rejects south and I end up with them somehow.
  33. 2 points
    I have several B and C series rigs here to compare. I'd like something flat but without the rear attachment point I'm going to be pretty limited I think... Main issue is. Well ... Me. EACH step needs to support over 250 pounds when I'm getting on/off the tractor.
  34. 2 points
    @ebinmaine, if my 1277 didn't have a loader on it, I would need something too. I have short legs plus "all gut, no but" syndrome so I can barely reach the pedal. Don't really need to since it doesn't have brakes anyway. I rest my foot on the loader mount.
  35. 2 points
  36. 2 points
    Many of us are young “Luke’s”. I’n the world of WH transmission with Stevasarus as our Yoda and Force combined. My self especially.
  37. 2 points
    Thanks, my first thought was grounding and then the cond. the cond. is NOS and it did have some discoloration to its casing. Ill let you know what I find out.
  38. 2 points
    All of the above switches are held closed for normal starting. If any of these were open you would not hear a click at the starter solenoid. Check your ground cable at the battery & where it bolts to the engine. The starter gets its ground through the block, so may be loosen the starter bolt & retighten them to try for a better ground. If all this fails then I would try a new start solenoid.
  39. 2 points
    Thank you @gwest_ca, looks like that will work!! Gonna put an 8 speed in it anyway! Randy
  40. 2 points
    The first good general service manual was about 1978-89 but much of the info applies to older and later models. Click on the picture. Garry
  41. 2 points
    Power Kings go where no man has gone before! I do have a PK chain on it now,
  42. 2 points
    Thanks for the photo's of the land wheel, Jack. We call them depth wheels. I've been thinking of one for my plough, as the electric lift I have is either up or down. Different ploughs of course, but the idea helps.
  43. 2 points
    That is great to see “Hank” finally at your place! PM @Achto if you get a chance or revisit his Rat Rod Suburban build. He has some really cool ways to patina metal for sure... i’ll continue To follow along and see what becomes of this very cool big wheel GT! Nice haul my friend...
  44. 2 points
    Never tried it.. Looks like fun, but where are the rock's? My place has more rocks than dirt...
  45. 2 points
    Yep I think I got stuck 3 times in the 1st pass
  46. 2 points
    Some of the Rigs: @Shynon‘s Machine @Achto‘s Raider @prondzy‘s Beast @WHX20‘s WHX1😉 My Dad’s Clyde GhostRider Here you can see how they are set up and in action. Most of these videos have been posted on the Forum before but in keeping with the topic, I feel it is good to have them all here in one place...
  47. 2 points
    Thanks guys for your input and the links already! Thanks @Stormin for checking in, not only with an informative post but also cool pics of your rig and a detailed explanation of some of the differences between plowing/ploughing for competition and plowing for “fun”. You guys do a great job over there and I love your plow tractor! 1. If everything is set as it should be, and you don’t ride out of the furrow at all, there shouldn’t be “missed spots”. One adjustment that I have found to be critical on keeping a straight line is the left hand bolt in the Brinly hitch. I adjust that out until it solidly contacts the hitch on the plow. Then I apply some pressure to the right side of the plow beam where it connects to the moldboard pushing it to the left which simulates the pressure of the ground working against it. While putting pressure on it, I eyeball the line of the beam to make sure it makes a straight line to the front of the tractor. Brinly’s website says to keep both bolts loose on each side of your hitch pin. I have not found this to work well in field plowing. 2. I suppose the holes make a little difference but I generally always use the middle one. Let’s see if our other plow dogs have a different take on this one. Brinly’s directions indicate which hole to use based on the spacing of your rear tires. From my “seat of the pants” testing, I generally stay with my hitch pin in the center hole. 3. Speed is dependent on conditions. I generally like 2nd gear while varying exact speed with the throttle. Sometimes it is necessary to plow in 1st. I’ve not personally ever tried to plow in Hi gear! 4. Above I listed what I was running on GhostRider for front weights. Maybe @Shynon or @Achto will check in with the amount of front weight they are using. I’ve been plowing with the CC100 in the above black and white photo for about 5 years now. It is a really good little plow tractor that holds its own well... however, I was at a big plow day in Iowa several years ago and Caleb was plowing on the Mule for about two hours. All the sudden I noticed that he was having trouble keeping the suck point in the ground. I had him get off the tractor and I took a round. I had to stand on the plow to get it in the ground. There was a clump of dirt that wasn’t coming off of the point and so I decided to investigate... Turns out that it had perfectly picked up a drag link on the point and it wasn’t allowing it to sink in the ground. This was the culprit! Who would think that little piece of metal would make such a big difference in the operation of the plow? I’m relating this story to let you know that sometimes the smallest thing out of whack can cause a big problem. Once the link was off, I was back in business! The adjustment of that suck point is a very important adjustment. I’ve seen many guys in hard ground (I.e. bad ground conditions) keep adjusting their point down without success. If the ground is too hard, you won’t get that point into the ground, and if you could—you likely wouldn’t have the power or traction to pull it! This is a close up of the three 22# weights I’m running. Here’s our favorite @stevasaurus getting some seat time on GhostRider a couple of years ago.
  48. 2 points
    Went grocery shopping Took nap Started dismantling my old washing machine after buying a new one Saturday morning . Never finished , took nap Played the guitar for about an hour Strained a tendon bending strings during a blues tune Took longer nap Took a shower Off to take a nap Happy Labor day everyone !
  49. 2 points
    Spending the weekend in Hemingford NE with the girlfriend at her sisters house...here for her brothers funeral tomorrow. Did get out of the house for a while this morning and drove over to Alliance...finally got to see Carhenge. Seen several pictures over the years but never thought I'd get to see it in person.
  50. 2 points
    Good one! Funny thing is, this summer I eliminated mowing the 1 ac "playing field", and it now takes half the time to mow. I'm not burned out of too much seat time, so having my chores taken is not a big deal. Same with plowing come winter. I love going out a midnight with only me and the snow and the 310-8. However, perhaps getting them the opportunity to appreciate that would be good for them!
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