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Adding workshop to back of garage. Moving dirt from digging footers for stem walls. Also putting carport(corral) for horse parking. Retiring from Fire dept. in about 6 months and need some space to "create". Working around daily thunderstorms and It's only 1000 degrees with 400% humidity here so going slow!

I wouldn’t know where to start. An easier topic for me would be “what have you left stock and why” Overall I think the Eaton 1100 transmission swap in the gt14 would be my favorite. Mainly because I pulled it off and it kinda looks factory. Second would be the aluminum fuel tank just because my son welded it up for me. Makes it special to me. I don’t think I could ever sell this tractor.

Definitely lug bolts and lugnuts!

Doing some adjustments on the 50 and 42 inch Wheel Horse Sickle Bar Mowers on the blades and lift handles. These things needs to be well greased in storage and operating! Changing the wobble box plug from recessed Allen type plug to external pipe plug for easier access to fill.

Got blasted with rain the first day. Only took a few pics and left early. Better weather ahead. HHHOOOWWWAAARRRDDD!!! made a nice puddle jumper.

This little guy has been neglected for a long time. Not sure what I'm gonna do with him yet.

Stacks for sure, get that exhaust up in the air and out of my face.

Picked up a parts 856! What better way to move it around the yard then use my other 856

I suspect most of us have modified our Wheel Horse's in some way or another. What is your favorite mod and why? I have installed 15 inch, 3 spoke, soft touch steering wheels on all my tractors along pedals from a late 80's eight speed on my GT 1642 as I like that style better than what it came with. I have also insalled LED light under the floor boards of my primary mower in case is starts to get dark as I am finishing the lawn. Bill

Stacks, lighting and anything else that doesn't require drilling holes in 60 year old sheet metal!

I’ve scraped and wire brushed plus used carb cleaner for the heavy crusty stuff. Then a final rinse down with CRC red brakekleen or acetone.

Dodged some rain at the Steam Pageant..

I have found that retirement is the best career choice I ever made! Enjoy!

@RandyLittrell i used JB Weld metal epoxy and two brass pipe plugs. I took a file and cleaned/ruffed up the inside of the holes, then flapped wheeled the outside to get all the paint off. Applied the the epoxy to the threaded part of the plug and the hole. I held the plug where I wanted it till it set up. Once they had set up, I took a cutoff wheel and cut the square head off and drilled another small hole through the middle of the plug. This let the second coat of epoxy flow through the plug and made it solid front and back. After it dried for a day or so, I filed, sanded and primed. Pretty simple actually. Any other questions, ask away. Hope this helped.

Here's a couple pics from the top of Big Spencer Mountain

rotation in removal is not relevant Installation is

NEW seat

Glad it wasn’t ground up into scrap. I’d rather put it in a landscaping bed and just look at rather than know it was turned into a toaster or a Prius

@jabelman Sorry it took so long. Here are some more shots of the Economy race car.

Some where in my garage is a set of those extinct Firestone 23 degree 23 x 8.50 - 12 tires that have never been mounted and one Carlisle 6 x 12 AG tire marked WHEEL HORSE that is N.O.S. , these were made in the mid to late 60's . Any body have another one that they might want to sell ? Carlisle has made many of the tires for Wheel Horse but it is interesting to note that you could get a tractor from Wheel Horse with rims made by Firestone that had Goodyear tires mounted on them ! Wild Bill in Richmond, VA

My son moved to New Jersey last month, started a new job and will be marrying s wonderful young lady he met 2 years ago while serving as a college. Student Missionary. He sent me this picture of what I believe is a 1966/67 Sears tractor with a snowplow. He said it looked operational and was stored in a Post Office building they were doing some work at. Zoom in and notice the “US Mail” decal on the side of the hood. Now or that I’ve got him spying tractors for me I just need to hone his skills to spot the “Red” ones. Yes I can see some New Jersey to Texas wrangling in my future 🐎 Of course this will be “Plow horse“ wrangling since I grew up on a “Farm” with lots of tractors, cattle and hay hauling, but no horses

Better weather today. Brian & Jo stopped by for a bit then Bud Andrews surprised me and made the trip from PA. Managed to get some pics for @elcamino/wheelhorse & @Achto HHHOOOWWWAAARRRDDD!!! a bit muddy from yesterday.

Someone's doin' some horse wranglin' in my neck of the woods! No clue who it is though lol

http://www.wheelhorse.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=7483, added heim joints to smooth out function and remove sloppy fit. also added springs to my snow plow to follow the blade, I will get picture soon. just regularly try to improve on problems as they show up, pete

OK, guys, while I was waiting for my new seals to come in, I took a close look at the input shaft and pulley. The ID of the pulley was not horrible, but even with a new woodruff key, it was sloppier than I liked. The .625" long woodruff key had worn a groove in the center of the pulley hub. So, I filled the missing part with JB Weld, and recut the keyway. I was really pleased with how it came out. I filled the original woodruff key slot in the input shaft with JB Weld, then machined it for a full length square 5/32" key. The key slot in the shaft was in really good shape. Now I know many of you are not a fan of JB Weld, but in this case, I feel it was a good option. This new full length key has more contact area with the undamaged part of the hub than the design had when new. Plus, if the JB Weld adds any strength to the mix, I have more than twice the contact area... Let me know what you think.

Seat springs on my late 60s models. A little gentler ride and slightly longer reach for the clutch pedal are nice.

I have washed engine blocks and other oarts with crc red brakekleen and it evaporates leaving no residue. On an engine block getting in the cracks and crevices will be challenging. Thats why I use that to flush the stuff out. Never had an issue. Also on metal parts than can be heated safely, i use a small hand torch to heat the meatl before spraying anything on it. You can see the moisture leave the metal. Then I paint or prime it.

Hope they don't rust, patina on a Wheel Horse is good, on a fake chicken; not so much.

Nice! Regardless of what you decide to do with it... sometimes you just gotta grab it because at minimum you can get some salvage parts and/or landscape decoration out of it.

Looks like what I usually start with when I do a resto. Could be a fun project.

Added stack from Jim!

Looks like a diamond in the rough to me.

Got my wheel horse out of the old shed. Got to do alot more painting

@19richie66, why don't you tell us how you filled in the two holes in the dash stand? I think I know how I would do it in cast iron but I would like to know how you did it. Randy

If you find a machine that is in pristine condition and you have a desire to preserve it then you are doing it right.Some years back I found a really nice 416H with a like new 48" deck.The original owner kept in a garage and waxed it,The Onan runs clean and smooth.When I got it I realized it was in to good condition to use as intended.I don't show it but use it only to blow snow and tow a cart.It sounds as if your 520 has found a good home.I would like to think mine have too.Luck,JAinVA

The little lady and the boys bought one of Mike Castagno's seats for my birthday and I put that on the 68 Commando 8, nice touch!

Safe Travles Zeek. While you are in Florida you need to check this out. http://www.floridaflywheelers.org/show-dates/

This evening I spent some time getting the belt guard installed and I made a rebentified belt guide. See the pic. Notice that the front of the engine is nearly clean in the upper picture and that in the next picture it is covered with belt dust. Also noticed that in the upper picture of the pulley is probably 3/8" away from the end of the crankshaft and now it is closer to the end. The belt was just touching the bolt head of the lower guide screw and that has been relocated and hopefully solved. I also removed the throttle cable and clipped about 6 inches off of the casing and reinstalled and rerouted that. I tightened up the base of it so that it will actually stay in the dashboard and lock and unlock as it should. Tomorrow's Adventures are scheduled to include the installation of the relocated air cleaner housing assembly. I'll be making an extension pipe 4 or 5 inches Long to go between the carburetor and the air cleaner assembly and then a couple pieces of strap steel to hold it in place. These modifications are necessary so that the air filter will clear the hood.

Sand

Jumbo tron here ...too big to turn....

My B80 has quite a few changes. All tires bigger. Added fluid weight. Smaller engine pulley. Exhaust stack. ALL our tractors get rear lugs. Lotsa cool stuff !!!

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/martin-wheel-6x1-3-8-plastic-deck-wheel-1-2-in-bushing-1-3-8-in-offset-hub-1128205

Lug bolts and nuts,15" 3 spoke steering wheels when I can get them and 520 gear reduction steering.Lug bolts make mounting rear wheels easier,15 inch three spoke steering wheels fit my hand better and 520 gear reduction steering with 4 lug hubs for ease of steering.

Might have to trade them in on some ducks.

I have a set of True Powers on one of my tractors & like 'em, no complaints. The Farm Specialties look like they have a deeper tread and the angle of the lug looks different. To me they look closer to a Firestone 23degree lug tire. I think either one would serve well.

I would pull the steering wheel then the plastic may lift enough. Not too difficult so long as wheel is not rusted to shaft, just use a 1/4" pin punch to remove roll pin then just lift off wheel. I have only had one rusted badly to the shaft of a dozen or more I have removed. If plastic will not lift enough now then you need to remove levers. I work on my gauges during restorations so everything is apart. Do the fuel and hour meters work ? If not you might just need to check wiring and tach and volt meters might be OK.

Hello and welcome to the best WH site anywhere.I own three 520 tractors and am no help at all with your gauge issues.To be honest I find most of them of no help.Why do I need a fuel gauge or worse a vacuum gauge?The only instrument I monitor is the hour meter.With that said I will comment on what I think is the main issue on any WH Onan powered machine.You need to monitor grass buildup in the rear cylinder tins.This subject has been discussed many,many times on this site.The Onan is a good engine but in the WH application they are hindered by a reduced airflow on the rear cylinder. Owners who neglect cleaning and routine maintenance,such as valve lash setting scratch there heads when the engine pukes a valve seat. JMHO,Luck,JAinVA

I am very happy for you but a little jealous at the same time. Can not wait to retire myself. Things seemed to move along fast for you with the sale of the house. Enjoy every minute👍

Here's the Iowa 80 truck museum!

Made more progress today. Still lots more to go