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Probably never get an opportunity to get this shot again. What s beautiful day.

Attended the Yesteryear Power Club show this past Saturday in Clay City. Was my second year attending the show. It is not a large event but fun. This also is the third time taking Horses to a show for me. Was able to get Best Lawn Tractor award with my 701 that has sickle bar, HL-5 lights, tombstone weight, and trailer hooked up . First time winning an award with my tractors. Was very surprised as there were over 35 garden tractors. Many of the garden tractors there were restored and very nice looking. My ole 701 is all original except the hood which someone painted before me. Wheel Horse had the biggest turn out having over half the quantity of garden tractors that attended. This was also the second year straight that a Putnam County Antique Tractor Club member has won the award

I've been dreaming of a new shop space to work on tractors and generally store things at my house. We already had a three car garage on the house and could only fit one vehicle in it due to the large space that kids toys, bikes, zero turn mower, shelving and a workbench already occupied. Well.. that stuff and a few or so little garden tractors... but they don't take up that much space, right? Anyway... we'd been talking about building my dream shop for several years. We live on a large in-town parcel, so there's plenty of room, but as with most things, it comes down to when it can fit in the budget. I drew it up several times on the building designer at Menards dreaming of when we could go forward. Well, in the early 2017 we decided to go ahead with it, and I came up with my final layout plan. We proceeded under the option of build the shell, and finish what we can later. We went over and over the list of things to do now and later. Things I wanted that had to be done now for sure were the rough in for the in-floor heat and the attic trusses. I had a contractor friend who would GC and frame it for me if I bought all the materials and he could do it on his own schedule. Yep, done. I figure I could have built it myself, but it would have taken most of the summer of every night and weekend, as well as the headaches of arranging the subs for the stuff I couldn't do, but if he could do it, and he has all the contacts/subs already... I'm money and time ahead to work some extra overtime and avoid the headaches. The previous owners of our place had a gravel RV parking next to the house. The old poorly done timber walls were deteriorating and leaning with age.It was convenient for parking the trailer, and nice when the kids were little that we could park off the driveway so they could play, but every year inevitably it was always a weedy mess by mid-summer. Step one, remove ugly timber wall. Lucky for me my neighbor had an chainsaw with a garbage blade on it. He came over and we were able to cut the wall into 12 ft sections that we loaded on the trailer for the dump. Next, met with our contractor friend to stake and mark it out. Since part of the goal was to reduce the amount of gravel, the equivalence of one car parking space was being removed and returned to grass on the left edge. Then just before the excavator was to start work, the kids and I did a little groundbreaking for the big project. Some gravel removed and sand base laid down and compacted. Concrete guys laid the forms for me on a Friday night so I could lay the insulation and pex for the in-floor heat. Like any kids, the call of the sand pile was irresistible. Next day I had help to lay the insulation boards and pex. Might seem silly to see two people carrying these boards that weigh all of 2 lbs each... but notice all the pavers? I'd been hoping for good weather to do the insulation and pex..... what I got was great temperature, bright, sunny......and 25 mph sustained winds with 40-50 mph gusts. So.... two guys to carry each flippin' board and weight it down. Ugh.... made the process much longer. Got the pex down, which went very smoothly. Three zones, stapled to the foam board. Monday morning I get a call.... inspector won't pass it because there's no pressure test on the pex. Ugh. Nothing about that in our building code, but what am I going to do? Project can't go on without his initials. So... I build a pressure manifold, tie all three zones into one long line and charge it up. Tues morning, concrete guys are onsite... inspector shows up and says ok. By the time I get home from work, I have a new slab. Lumber pack shows up the day before the family and I are leaving for a week at the cabin. When I pulled out of driveway, construction was underway. We got a few progress pics through the weeks from various friends. And I returned a week later to this. Totally the best way to build a shop! I was out of his way, he was out of mine... worked out perfectly. I installed the overhead doors, had the electrician come and trench the electric over. Got the gas line roughed in for the boiler as well while the trench was open. After that, the excavator came back with the final top dress for final grading. We bit the bullet and decided to go with sod right away. Even got the kids to help for a little while. Couple of neighbors (one of whom happens to be a professional landscaper) came over the chip in too, and three pallets later.... Now we're at slow progress time. I bought all the construction materials on a Menards 11% rebate, so once I got the rebate check I started to finish the interior. Got the vapor barrier up, and ceiling rocked with 12 foot 5/8" type x. 105 lbs each. Ugh. Thank God for drywall lifts, right!? More rebate checks allowed for the insulation and rock for the walls. Then we came to a complete standstill..... got enough stuff moved out of the house garage to get both the car and truck in for the winter, but with no heat and no ceiling insulation the shop was just a big storage box for winter. Spring this year rolled around and prioritizing shop work made it to the list. I realized it's going to be much easier to get the interior done before I move in. So... started back at it. I got the floors masked off and got tape and mud done... then the girls helped me paint. Did the floor with Rock Solid polycuramine kits from Menards... grey with flakes and a textured topcoat to make it less slippery if wet. This is a long and multi-stage process. First it required renting a diamond grinder and grinding off the curing sealer. Then powerwashing three times to remove all dust and debris. The base coat went on, cured for a few days, and topcoated three days later. Then I let that cure for a week before moving in. It's supposed to be cured in 24 hours, but why rush it if not necessary? Finally ready to move in. Got some used kitchen cabinet take outs and installed them for the workshop area. Really looking forward to getting stuff organized and cleaned up now. It's totally a dream come true. Still have to buy and install the boiler and get the ceiling insulated... but those are things that can be worked around. Up until this point it's been much easier to have minimal stuff in the way. If you made it all the way to the bottom, thanks for taking the time to read it. Get more done, have more fun!!

Still waiting on word back on the charger 12....... Then this popped up. Just couldn't pass it by sooooooo. I pick it up tonite. Comes with a snow blower. Tranny pops out of gear. That's fine with me. I've rebuilt two 8 speeds an a 3 speed. Think I'm getting the hang of them. And yes my wife still loves me. She's even coming for the ride

I finally got the 8" front wheels on the 312. Maybe over the winter I can find tine to paint the 42" deck. Mowed with it tonight and it mows great. I still need to add a little toe in on the front since switching out the front. Here are a couple of before and after pics with the new wheels and deck.

Taking a “bathroom break” for a couple days, on account of good behavior I suppose. My German kid Jil is in town for 3 weeks and she hasn’t been on the buggy for a couple years, since the suspension and Subaru upgrades. Well, I thought I had a couple cracks to take care of, ends up after I took the side panels off and started looking around, I don’t know how the front end hasn’t broken off the car! Doing a bunch of repairs this week, along with reinforcement to transfer power and suspension shock through the chassis a little better. After all, the car was built for about 40 horsepower, now there’s about 165 ponies out back. Everywhere that has green tape, along with some other prepped areas, need repairs. We are also prepping for the replacement front seats, going from fiberglass molded seats to suspension seats and 5 point harnesses. It’s good to have help in the shop this week!

My friend Rodney Burger just bought two pair of Carlisle 6/12 Farm Specialist rear tires for his Wheel Horses. First time I ever saw these. Sold on Ebay!

I'll let you know if it works or kills me. The logging mule has received its latest mod.

I inherited my first Wheel Horse, an 312-8, from my brother, who happened upon it in his travels. It didn't appear to have been run in some time as it sat outside with weeds growing over it. After about 30 minutes we had it running. Needed a new fuel pump ($17), fresh gas, and a little WD40. We spent a good couple hours freeing things up and putting tubes in back wheels and she runs like a top. More to come...

Rotate the arm supporting the cable counter clock wise to speed her up

Rick Give me a call if you have issues or mess one up. I will send a replacement if needed. Terry aka(Vinylguy)

Wow. That is just what I have been dreaming of for the last twenty years. However, whenever the idea is floated, the wife always gives it a thumbs down with a "why don't you just get rid of some of your junk? Building a bigger building will just encourage you to get more". Well duh!? Anyway, great building Jason.

Instead of watching paint dry, I go outside to “clean up”.

More pics of my project.

Runs great. Can't wait to get her to work.

Nothing better than NEW TIRE DAY !

I put a pair of those on Skonk. Bought them down the street at my tire store.

I've always thought that would be the best rototilling tractor, with an 8-speed and electric lift seems like it would be a great combination!

That Magnum 18 is a nice power plant smooth and powerful

Here's a couple pics from the top of Big Spencer Mountain

As a side note, I somehow manage to keep finding myself more projects to do. Especially when I already have too many projects and not enough time! But this followed me home the other day, Im not sure what I want to do with it yet. I believe its a 1077.

W/H made the Charger 12 from 1968-72... That's 45-50 yrs old. The Sundstrand auto is model 90-2046 (if original) and actually not too difficult to service, if needed. The tuffest part is just refinishing the internal parts of the pump to restore the hyd pressure. Not difficult, but time consuming to do it right. I've done 8 or 10 of them over the years and have the same 90-2046 unit in my '72 Bronco 14. To do it yourself...with new bearings & seals...probably < a C note. Here is a pic or two of the guts of the 90-2046 unit: I have SOME spare parts, if needed.

Ok, got this tractor home and began tearing it down for restoration.

Terry customized my order for Putt Putt, for a rediculously cheap price... not that I’m complaining. I feel though, like us as customers get the better end of dealing with @Vinylguy every time! It must be that he just enjoys what he does

My wife wants to have chickens. We can't have them where we live. As a joke a while back I bought a couple of metal chicken lawn decorations and planted them in a flower bed and waited for my wife to see them. Took a while but she got a good laugh out of it and named them after a couple of neighbor's that moved away that we miss. I found another one and didn't tell her again and she finally found it and joked they were multiplying. I named it Ralph after my retired next door neighbor engineer. Picked up a big ceramic Rooster on my way home the show. She named him Homer as he's what you see when you get home. It's our 30th Anniversary this weekend so I got her a coop and we made a little display in hope that someone sees it and turns us in for having chickens. @stevasaurus thought of The Dead Chicken Society but since these were never alive in the first place I un gruesomed it a bit. Hope to get some good laughs out of it. We'll do more landscaping after it cools off!

If you need to remove the steering wheel then you will have to remove the roll pin as Cleat stated,Keep in mind that the steering shaft is located by thin metal and any heavy hammering can cause serious damage.I have had more than one that in order to get the roll pin out I had to take the upper hood stand off and remove the steering shaft.Take the assembly to a solid surface,support the shaft and use a BFH to get the pin out.If you are doing a full resto then it may be worth the effort but if you want to use the machine then you may want to think about opening up a can of worms for things you really don't need.A tach on a governed engine tells you what? I honesty believe the gauges WH mounted on the 520 were to add to curb appeal.

Find some 6/12 wheels and bolt them on

Ok so correct me if I am wrong, the clutch needs to be let out fully and then check the belt tension to ensure it is snug or would need slight force to flex it, correct?

I would use low range on that for safety and easier gear reduction movement. if you can, also reduce the entire log dragging on ground, with a curved metal skid up front , that would help a lot. I have used old wheel barrel shell as a sliding skid on front of log, also used a car hood, either of those would give you the mechanical advantage, good luck ,pete

That's great! Just shows that sometimes nice originals can outshine a restoration paintjob!

Or go custom

With the clutch feeling full spring pressure it should take slight force to flex the belt. The belt guard is your friend in keeping the belt in place and allowing you to clutch it without grinding gears.

Been really busy lately, but I managed to find some time and get a mower deck I have mounted today. Just waiting for a new pulley to get in, and ill try it out!

Hello there! As @953 nut and @wallfish mentioned, the electrical system needs troubleshooting. A $20 volt/ohm meter will bring you a long way in electrical. Using the continuity setting, like an arrow againt a wall, you can test to see if a switch is making a connection or not. Voltage is just looking for a channel to run through, you are making sure the gates are in the correct position to allow the voltage through.

This is gonna be one COOL machine when finished! I really like what I’m seeing so far Richie. Very good call on relocating the front axle, I know that it is extra work but worth it in the long run.

Beautiful garage! I haven't figured out how to get enough 11% rebate money from MENARDS to make my next trip free! You put a lot of thought and time into figuring out what you wanted and did an excellent job!

Barry, You can refinish one yourself. It is tedious and time consuming, but it can turnout well if you have patience. I know because I refreshed my GT 14 dash and hydro panels. Check out the following thread for tips: http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/57298-raised-letter-dashboard-restoration-technique/?tab=comments#comment-582635

Looking awesome! How are finding time to work on this with your honey do's as well?? Randy

24x36 can't believe I forgot to mention size! It will be. Gotta wait a little while to afford that. Ceiling was supposed to be 10' but I got 10' 6". Lower cost ladders stop at 10' 3". Yep... Plumbed in a condensate drain right next to the pex stubs. It ties into the floor drain.

Could be a money pit. You would be smart to have it running so the tranny can be tested before putting any money out. If the seller is not willing to work with you, walk away.

I just got a set for my tractor and I couldn't have been happier! Terry was so great to deal with and I would do it again ! 👍

I have been a little static on the forum lately because we have been getting ready to relocate. I retired from my job on June 30th, put the house on the market July 1st and it sold July 2nd. Specifically, we are going from 2,500 square feet to an RV for a while. So the tractors are packed away in storage for now, because I couldn't part with them. We'll see where we end up. We settle on our house in southcentral PA on 8/22. Jump in the RV and head to northern PA for a few weeks to see family, then work our way south stopping at the following for a couple weeks at a time: Ashland, VA Shawboro, NC Myrtle Beach, SC St. Mary's, GA Zephyrhills, FL (November-April) Tractor packed and headed to storage Everything else we are keeping has to fit in this trailer. Bought the trailer and will get our stuff to where end up and then maybe sell the trailer (at least that's what a told my wife Then we live in this for a while . . .

Agreed Jason....Therin lies the problem, say you are just idling the floor or space at say 40 or 50 deg. but want to go out and putz for a couple hours after work and crank it up to 60. Forget it, by the time it even gets close to comfy it will be bed time. On the other hand say the kids are off at the friends for the weekend , mommas got plans and you got the whole weekend to putz, crank it up Friday nite and enjoy laying on that floor the whole weekend looking up at the underside of a to find out where that pesky leak is. i'm sure this was all part of that 50/50 split but exactly what I tell my customers .. you can't put it in later. I pretty much do the same thing with my gas forced air on week nites and then shift to wood fire on the weekends where I am sweating in a t shirt and it's -20 out. With gas forced air my shop is 65 in a matter of 15 minutes from a balmy 35 deg. at any outside temp. My shop idles at 35 deg. regardless...just enough to keep water, paints, beverages etc from freezing. Awful handy for thawing out the snow blower when she throws a bearing. So it's a learning curve...till propane, like I have, spikes up to 90 bucks a gallon (exageration yes but you get my drift). Then it's good to have the wood lot stocked and a whole new curve ready. Yes you can put in antifreeze in Sparkeye but I call it a neccesary evil.... even the smallest leak out of the system will quicky corrode pumps, valves and fittings. Often times even when there is no leak. Insulation in a building such as this is a key factor but not nowhere as key as infiltration, keeping those overhead doors sealed up, unless you like paying gas bills, is a biggy especially as the structure ages.Weather stripping between the panels and wind restistant energy star panel hinges, yes there is such a thing! BTW @CasualObserver ther are two types of floors in buildings like this, concrete that isn't cracked and concrete that is gonna crack!

It may be that the Sundstrand Hydro-gear 90-2046 pump and such is in good working order. Once you get the engine running, the way to test is: 1) run it around the yard for 20 min or so...until it gets to operating temp. 2.) chain it to a tree and see if it has the power to spin both back wheels. 3) if both spin (has a 10-pinion LSD) it is probably good to go, without a rebuild. 4) Change fluid (ATF is pink) or oil and use OEM filter.

Looks like it ought to do the job. But at 90+ degrees here today, I don't think you're going to get much seat time with it

That doesn't fit the horizontal shaft garden tractors but the vertical shaft lawn mowers instead you really need to find one that looks like what @1995 520H+96+97 posted above any long frame plow frame will work as long you also get the extention kit, 42" will work but when angled it will allow snow to fall back under that side tires, 48" is recommended, but if you can find a 54" even better, I originally bought a 42" and modded it to 50" then found myself a 54" ,Jeff.

My 67 doesn't look nothing like that. But i wish it did. Almost looks like a dragster with those wheels.

Yes Farmer, you are right. Built for a Ransomes crawler. Balances fine but the plough share is very close to the ground. If you look at the second picture, you will see, behind the wheel, half way up a bar with notches in. One of those ropes is tied to a rod. Pull that out and then release it and that bar drops down and engages with pegs protruding from the back of the wheel hub. As the wheel goes round, the pegs lift that bar and that raises that side of the plough till it locks. To lower it, you pull the same rope and that side will drop. Anyone standing at the side should keep fingers well clear. (Don't ask how I know) The handle on the left, looking from the rear, controls the depth wheel which is the wheel on the opposite side. The other handle controls the small trailing wheel at the end. That tilts the plough down or up. Lining it up behind the tractor is done by altering the position of the draw bar. It's in three pieces. There's a cross bar with several holes in which you can move left or right. Another bar again with holes in, goes to the tractor and one more from plough to that bar with a pin in the end. The pin can be fitted in any of the holes in the tow bar. That lot adjust plough left or right to suit the tractor. You can see them in the first picture. I hope that description is understandable.

@Vinylguy, on his redoyourhorse site, He has videos on how to apply on his decals, but soapy water or Windex sprayed on the hood and/or the adhesive side of the decal that way there's a lubricant to position the decal exactly where you want it then using a "squeegee" start in the middle and work the air/water bubbles outward, Jeff