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I picked up a second Farmall Cub, a 1950, to go along with my 1947 one I bought last summer. This one runs good, but has some unique modifications that I have been addressing. It came from a buddy of mine's neighbor. He had passed away recently and his son wanted John to sell it for him. John already has 3 Cubs so he put this one up for sale. The previous owner, before he passed, had a bit of dementia, which is perhaps why the odd modifications. The generator, which is supposed to go under the hood, was relocated to the right side of the hood, and there was wires spliced everywhere. The 6V battery was connected backwards - in the Cub 6V system, the positive terminal is the ground. The front seal was leaking and there were a few other issues. I left it at John's place, and with his help, we have been working on it. First relocating the generator to it's proper place, plus a new voltage regulator, a new starter to negative terminal cable, the correct fuel strainer bowl, and are rewire the whole tractor. A new fuse holder and another light switch, was also added. I ordered a free safety gas cap from IHC and will need to still address the Woods mower issues. Here are some pictures, first the way I bought it.

Thought i'd share these with you folks . Not something you see every day . The Canadian Flagged Manitoulin left one of Buffalo's grain elevators today . It's the same elevator our mill gets all their grain to make flour from . To put this in perspective : This ship visits 2 times a year . We have 3 grain men running 40 foot bottom-drop grain trailers 6 days a week . They dump 12 / 20 loads each ..PER DAY ! Das - a - lotta grain !

A few more. I will be removing the deck, even though it has new blades, I don't need this one to cut grass.

Next, the work in progress. We should finish her up today and I will be taking it home. Hopefully, that is, and will include more pictures of it "fixed" then.

After looking near and far, I finally picked up a 312 8 that was found close by to me. It seems to be in good shape, with 300hrs on it, and it fit my budget. Now I need to figure out how to put a sleeve hitch on the back so I can start turning over some ground. Any advice on that or maintenance would be appreciated.

Made more progress today. Still lots more to go

This is the photo of my tractors that I will put in classified

Are you talking about the outer brg? The Napa #'s are: P204RR6 cheapie version PP204RR6 Primeline # 704250

Another thought. The pin that actuates the parking brake (circled in yellow) will wear. The parking brake arm (blue) it moves will wear a deep groove in the pin thus the brake arm may not move enough to completely disengage the parking pawl

The Villa Grove Ag Days Show is on!

Happy Coast Guard Day! Chicago is probably not thought of as a Maritime port but actually has 52 movable with 43 still operable bridges. A part of Chicago history was the infamous Medusa Challeger (built 1906 and 562 feet long) that was legendary for snarling traffic and having bridges fail to open or close while transiting the Chicago River and its branches. I can remember a time being on the wrong side of the river while grabbing lunch when I worked downtown. Back then it was the oldest freighter on the Great Lakes until converted to a barge in 2013.

Ok so let the guy throw out the first price. Has he got replacements for the tractors ? If so a cheap price is what you throw back but if he still might need them he might need a higher price to help him let go of the tractors. It is very hard to give price evaluations with out seeing of looking over detailed photos of the Wheel Horses. Market value, depending on where you live can easily determine price, a Wheel Horse Pennsylvania is worth more then one is southern Arizona. Are the tractors running and have you taken them for a test drive ? Any hydrostatic Wheel Horse should be driven for at least 10 minutes to see if the transmission is in good working order. Check the engine oil and look them over to see what kind of maintenance they have gotten over the years. Remember it's your name that is on the line when making deals, you get a tractor cheap because you fast talked some little old lady and she finds out .........she just might not tell you about her friend who has a perfect condition RJ-58 with all the attachments for sale. Sorry for the rambling on but see what the guy wants for them and if your willing to pay the price then you both should be happy. Wild Bill in Richmond, VA

Happy Birthday @GlenPettit, we are all glad you were born and pray your recovery is going well!

Way to go ...gotta love the Onan sound, wait till you get it in snow up on the governor.

Just a 1/4 turn and she now holds the speed

Mowed the back yard... with the new REO skiff this afternoon. Not a bad cut, considering it rained all night, and today until noon. Then snatched up the high rise tub cart, just because it was there.

My new '67 REO skiff (#36)... followed me home today. Was successful in my rescue of another ... across the Connecticut state border.

THANK YOU!

The one near center slightly right with the 1"+ diameter flat washer that has a 9/16" nut (but first I would take the it completely apart degrease/clean the cam plate and friction washer then put back together, then start your adjustments while you are there you can fix neutral creep speed up forward and/or reverse the procedure is in the downloadable owners manual here on RS) the only lube I would use on all other joints besides the friction washer is dry graphite powder so it doesn't attract dust/chaffe ect, Jeff.

When they are running right they don't make much more noise than a sewing machine.Nice tractors you got there.

Gorgeous original patina on that one.

The parking pawl in the later C models and others from '73 onward used a set of teeth to engage the main gear - these were much stronger but could still be stripped if someone put it in park while moving. That series Sundstrand piston to piston type was the best hydro made, in my opinion. I'm not much of a fan of the Eaton system, they take far too long to warm up and don't seem to have the hydraulic grunt of the Sundstrand. As to the grinding noise when engaging the hydro unit - that is from a very badly worn linkage arm. That arm does two things at once - it engages the tension pulley on the drive belt, plus it also releases the parking pawl. On those later model piston to piston units there is a lever on the pawl shaft that actuates the internal part. On the linkage arm there is a stud that moves the lever down to engage the pawl with a spring to return it to an open position to allow the internal gears to move. If the spring is missing, the thing will ratchet loudly until it breaks the teeth off inside, which is a bad amount of damage. It's all in the manual for the B & C series tractors, also showing all the parts in the illustrated parts list. I've rebuilt the teeth on one pawl by welding them up, then grinding them to fit again - another I had just ordered a new park pawl. Sarge

I also had to run a shorter belt. I think the eaton pump sits a little closer forward than the sunstrand. Also the brake pedal linkage took a little shortening/rethreading but I have full braking abiltity and it returns to neutral like it should. It took some work and head scratching but well worth it. There will be an eaton 1100 going in my wife’s 1054 too. Gathering parts at the moment. I plan on doing a small write up with pictures when I do it. (After looking at the pictures above, I believe the pump drive pulley may be a tad smaller diameter on the eaton. I’ll try to get a measurement )

If I mow damp grass I lower the tailgate on my truck, put the ramps on it and pull the front of the onto the ramps. I wash it down and use a brush to remove hard packed grass. Each winter the deck gets a good cleaning and a coating of Plasti-dip.

I think enhancing the moisture level on a deck ( with a flush down ) and then thinking you are done ,and then leave it soaking wet till your next cut , is begging for a rotted deck and bearing failure. I don't know what horse you have, but it takes minutes to drop a deck on a horse,( excluding a 60 in deck ). my 42 r/d., is very simple, I regularly drop mine, regularly to clean out and get it in the sun to dry out and oil spray it down. unless you want mushrooms under your deck, you have to break the moisture / grunge cycle. most of the decks I see are junk , rotted, spider cracks, impact dents, zero maintenance, they are also expensive, its up to you, pete

As if we don't live far enough out in the sticks already. We're going to go a few hours North and hang around rough camping with the moose for a few days. Can't even begin to tell you how much I'm looking forward to it!!

Craig- Nice patina on that baby. Bring it to the pull tomorrow in Montgomery. I will be there with the 953 and Economy. Meeting Kyle and Bill .

That's funny Russell Glad you're here. Please don't run her without the engine blower cover! It will over heat

Today I went out to my shed and looked at my old tractor. And joined. She is a 1277 Runs and has all the goods.

Not really sure exactly where it comes from . I believe western Canada via the upper great lakes . It's going to the flour mill I work at to be made into different blends of white & wheat flour . We load it there in bulk tankers 50,000 lbs per tanker and blow it into the silos at various bakeries around Western NY / Camp Hill ,Pittsburgh ad Altoona PA and Cleveland OH .

It's definitely "bare bones" just like dinosaur skeleton...

It's dang near a 90 degree bend . They back her up the river under the Michigan St. bridge then the Ohio St bridge . She has to go past the black bridge in the pic to dock behind the grain silos on the left in the first pic .

Looks more like a bathroom every day! With the tub set, I’ll be able to install the drain, the finish all my supply lines and test my fittings before I finish ceiling and walls.

He has every thing you need. I suggest the rock shaft under the seat also, your 312 probably doesn't have it. You don't need it for a breaking plow, but it helps. Anything heavier like a tiller it definitely helps. He sells the rock shaft also, all of his stuff is new and well made.

Check out "Wheelhorse Parts and More" in the Vendors section below. He makes one better than the original from Wheel horse.

Hope ya have good weather, it’s raining like heck here in Connecticut ⛈

Suspect this is the air filter 6" OD x 4-3/4" ID x 4" HT Kohler 277138, 277138-S Napa 7-02225 Stens 100-057 Wix 42298 Garry

pics of the old B 100 transmission. No pic right now of replacement available. I will get by Sunday and post.

I wanted to stop in and say hello to everyone, over a period of many years, I have owned just about all the big 3 brands of garden tractors. They have all been traded or sold. I am back trying to find the one I enjoyed and miss the most. Looking for a C160. Hopefully with a tiller. I'm glad to be back to RED.

PM Sent. There are new ones on Ebay but we are not supposed to attach links.

I recently finished my GT-1800 it was a slow almost two year restoration. I bought this tractor new in August 1984. Here is a before during and after picture.

Ship bigger. Ship wins.

Decent sized ship there, eh?

Thought I would share the latest work on the 551 Rat Horse. I picked this up from @dells68 at the PA show in June. It is a Rat Rod based on a 1961 model 551. It is powered with a 6.5 hp Predator engine. When I picked it up it was in a clear coat over rust. Pulled it apart and sandblasted it and repainted in flat black with blasted cast iron sheet metal. Repaired the head stand and restored it to it's original upright orientation which allowed the hood and fuel tank to mount in their original positions. Shortened the steering shaft to mount a three spoke deep dish lawn ranger steering wheel (hub bored to 3/4" dia), and shortened the shift lever. Fabricated a heat shield to cover the top of the engine and direct the hot air from the blower housing away from your right leg, and installed the Predator performance intake and carb jet. This past weekend it was pin striped by Rudy (out of Sandusky) at the New London Ohio FARM show. Am contemplating installing a flipped front axle to drop the front, and may drop the trans mount to lower the whole tractor, and replacing the black wheelie bar rollers with a new pair of red hub WH deck wheels. This fall will get a custom fabricated polished stainless steel exhaust pipe and muffler and a set of retro headlights. Looks a lot different from when it came home in June!

The 42" single stage is the simplest, lightest and works well. One from 1973 up is plug and play. DNA 1977 model 76-42ST01 replaces 1966-67 model ST-376, 1968 model 6-1211, 1969 6-6211 plus 6-9111, 1970-72 model 6-6212 plus 6-9112, 1973-74 model 6-6212 plus 6-9113, 1974 model 6-6213, 1975 model 6-6214, 1976 model 6-6215, 1976 model 66-42ST01 1977 model 76-42ST01 replaced by 86-42ST01, 96-42ST01, 1980 model 06-42ST01, 1981-82 model 06-42ST02, 1983 model 06-42ST03, 1984-87 model 06-42ST04, 1987-89 model 06-42ST05, 1990 model 06-42ST06, 1991-93 model 06-42ST07, 1993-2001 model 79360, 2002-07 model 79362 Garry

Having built a few dozen of those sets here is how I went about it. I start with 5/8" round stock 36" long. I have a plywood template (photo somewhere here in another post) made from an original set. Template is designed to fit inside finished frame. I mark center of bar and then the two bend points. Using a heavy duty metal vise, I clamp the bar on the vise with the bend point on the edge of the vise jaw. I place it so when I bend it i pull it towards me. I then heat that point until it is about cherry red. I then slip a long piece of black pipe over rod and bend it it. I test that first bend against template. If it is close i leave it for now if not adjust it. Then the same for the other side. You have to make sure both bends are oriented correctly. Placement on vise is critical for that. Once both sides are bent I proceed to test again with template and make sure it fits precisely inside of frame. It should also lay flat on a surface. Once bar is bent and adjusted I then cut both legs to length. I have a few originals and some have the exhaust side a little shorter to allow for exhaust. Some do not.The ones I built I cut both sides the same. Next step is drilling and tapping ends. I use a drill press with the table vertical and a vise attached to it. Then you need to grind flat spots on top of bar for bolt heads which attach it to tractor frame, the same but longer on the bottom of bar where it meets frame. Accuracy here is also necessary so bar sits correctly on frame. Last you need to make the spacers which go inside the mounting flange of lights. I use the cut off pieces from bar and drill a clearance hole for bolt through them. As for switch mounting I devised a bracket that attaches to already existing holes on side of tower. It is bent at a compound angle that matches angle of tower and places switch in the most convenient area.