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Oil is Oil!

Finally had a chance to bolt the fresh K-341 on my 76. I'm probably not going to get it going until after the big show. There's a few things I want to find for it. An ammeter or voltmeter, an OE style muffler, headlight lens, an OE style rectifier/regulator, brake liner, drawbar hitch (works great with the old tub cart) and probably a few other things. I installed a hourmeter in the shifter plate so I can track the hours on the 'new' motor.

If you have a bottle jack, some 3/8" all-thread and an old hub you can do this.

They made a blower that fit on the Ranger's which were only 6hp. I don't think that you will have any trouble running one with a 10hp. Unless you want an excuse to buy another tractor, then don't disclose the above info to your significant other.

My newly acquired 1981 C-105 that I picked up in a trade with @Chris T ... and MY first time mowing with it ( my dad already used it). Ran great and cut great! Very impressed with this 37 year old machine.

I picked this one up late last fall so I never was able to try the mower deck. Today I did. Mowed really well.

Let me go through this again. The C-Series has a 45.5" WB. The 74-75 B-Series had a 43.5" WB. The 76-77 B-Series had a 45.5" WB and were identical to the C-series save for the following. Horsepower, low back seat vs high back, 13" steering wheel vs 15", 22.750 rear tires vs 23-8.50, headlights optional vs standard and a couple other minor things but you get the picture. Download the brochures and check the specs. I have a 1976 B-80 that I bought new and then converted it to a C-160. The only thing that didn't get converted is the steering wheel because I preferred the 13". Measuring the 74-75 B-Series as 3" shorter is probably because the overall length is about that with the smaller rear tires. The WB is axle to axle and they are 2" shorter. Again, the 76-77 B and C series share the exact same frame. In 1978 the B's became lawn tractors and were entirely different.

What Malmac said. More HP is better but 10hp beats the heck out of 1 Manpower! You can drop speed to a crawl. Take smaller cuts. Try to divide the storm and blow during the storm. I'd want more than 10hp but it would certainly help!

A few of the views here... from my office window this week. Can you say, Trees? Or, the damage they sustained, has been the word of the week here, this week. So, for now, the crisis is over... the power grid has been restored... and, my happy little life can pick up where it left off.

Dead Dinosaurs are dead dinosaurs...

The other thing to consider is if is a hydro, the effective HP available is decreased some, just how much is not clear to me. I have used a single stage on a 10hp, a 14hp and a 20hp. There is definitely a difference. The lower hp does not have the oomph to barrel thru the snow at the end of the drive. But as one member said, 10 hp beats one manpower any day.

If you have a Lawn Ranger and a Lawn Ranger Snowblower a 6 HP motor will do just fine for blowing snow! Get a Horse , a Wheel Horse of Course~!

I've got one of those on my ebay watch list Jim but I'm kinda wondering about durability and if it would be visible in the sunlight. Nothing too fancy for this old girl. With the history of this tractor some may wonder why I'm not restoring it. In my little way it's a tribute to the late gentleman that had it for the 17 years we were living in Florida. He did do some painting on it and it could use some freshening up but he took such good care of it I've decided to leave it physically as is and work the snot out of it like I always did. His wifes words that I was the only person Larry would want to see with this tractor goes through my mind every time I look at it.

any spec over 24300 Series 2 Full pressure oiling system. Good engine...But even a good engine can be damaged by abuse, neglect or oaer use....

Yes the B-80 that Eric has from me was a 1976 8-speed. I ran it for many years until I got a princess of a 1974 B-80 4-speed. I then made the 76 a parts tractor. Same frame, known as a mid-frame. I just picked up a 77 C-160 (pictured) last weekend that I would like to restore with another long frame as well.

It is a foot pedal for engaging the deck on alot of 60's model WH.

My C-105 says "HI!" to his cousin... GREAT tractor! Cheers!

Mixing Oil Brands, You're real rebel Sparky!

You guys made me laugh!! Mixed it is! Has to be better that what came out .

Sorta related: My Power King transmission takes a 1/2 pint. It has a mix of 90 Wt., STP and Lucas oil stabilizer. Been in there for 5 yrs.

Yes. Other users specified oil filters. Why WH did not is anybodies guess. Look throughte Kohler engine parts website fo rKT17s. look at spec #s for cub cadet or others Some had filters. That will show what parts you have to round up.

Greyghost, The 417-As to the best of my knowledge all had the series II. The C-175 for example would have had the bad series one. Others will confirm for sure.

I may be spoiled on this, but to quote Homer: More power is more better! Basically you can only have to little power, no such thing as too much. Just my

Snowblower was used once.Paint isn't scratched on the pulley.

I had a blower on a 12hp Charger worked just great. I had one my 6hp Ranger...not so great. Problem is your first pass you have to take full width and depending on the type snow it may choke. You have to go very slowly and yet have engine RPM maxed. With a 3 speed that requires a lot of clutch slipping. If you have an 8 speed you can use low range for the first pass. Subsequent passes are not an issue as you can control how much snow you are taking.on

Morning Karl just saw the above, (still no power running on Wheel Horse Gen power)...… no damage to house MULTIPLE trees down, when this is over don't want to see a chainsaw for like 6 months!

I'm stealing both of your ideas!

Your seat back takes a pair of 1 3/4" 1/4-20 round head machine screws that will go into a pair of "T Nuts" in the seat back. I made up a devise that attaches to the plywood of seat cushion which does a good job of holding it down. you can make one up using any heavy wire and attach it to the seat bottom where it will go into the gas fill opening of the seat base. Mine is made of 1/8" spring wire and the screw eye bent in it is one inch from a 90* bend that positions it. There is one thing we request of all new members,

Type of snow is the biggest factor. Wet snow VS Dry powdery snow. Also I am assuming the snowblower in question here is a single stage. If we’re a 2 stage Blower then a 10hp would be severely under powered.

got an old hub...if so, try this setup

All this work to get this fan on here and it was pointed out to me I have the wrong direction fan. Thanks @wallfish. I was looking at it spinning from the wrong way. Back to the drawing board

The machine was a trade in and is being sold as is. It is in good shape otherwise but isn't something I really need. I thought about using the motor for parts for my other Onan if needed. These things are addictive. Bill

I spent some time during off season and restored the old girl she will out last me. I have a 416-8 and I love this one. I don't see many around well not here in Va.

Another thing to remember is that putting an 8 speed on a 74-75 mid frame does not change the wheelbase. It's still a 43.5" mid frame.

The way I would test it is to wire it in series with a load like the headlights. It should deflect some. Reverse the polarity and it should deflect in the opposite direction. I agree with the voltmeter but it's not a big deal to me. I just want something that works. My original ammeter was stuck on 0 but, even though I never checked the system, I know it was charging since I used it all winter.

Bob, I have an ammeter that came out of my 1974 c-160. I have no idea if my ammeter works because the wiring harness was basically a butchered up bag of shaken spaghetti inside the tractor. I didn't put it back in because I am a fan of a voltmeter instead. If you can tell me how to bench test this thing I'll do it. Throw me a few bucks for postage and you can have the gauge. I'll never use it and there's no sense just letting it sit on my shelf.

The old predator generator. It's a good buy for the money

Gentlemen, I want to thank you ALL for your input! What I found was that I had applied some Vasoline to the terminals to keep moisture out and some must have gotten between the cable and battery post. Cleaned it with some light sand paper and all-is well... Thanks Again

Thanx so much ! Have some issues that have came up so may be a while b4 I can get back on this project but the information is very helpful , thanx again!

as shown on my 854, good part to keep on hand.

Met up with several Red Square members st the Tri-State Engine Association Spring Swap Meet yesterday and today . Here is a pick of (left to right) Keith Dunn from Ontario , Canada a, Mike Wall from Ohio and Lane Ralph from Indiana. Plus a few other pics from the swap meet. I also visisted with Joe Bob from Minnesota, Billy Orr from Indiana and Chris Lee from Indiana. I had a great time at Portland this Spring!

I got a message yesterday from an amplifier, tube audio specialist who has worked on audio gear for me who lives in New Milford, CT........the home of one of our mods, I believe. @stevebo??? Here's his statement: "WEATHER UPDATE: A tornado blew through here about 4:42 this afternoon. There is widespread damage across much of Connecticut. The high school down the road lost part of its roof. We are fine here, but there is no power, no internet and no phone service. Lines are down *everywhere*. About every 50' there is a tree down across power lines. This is not the sort of outage that will be fixed in a few days. Could be a month, based on past experience. We are on generator power and will continue to work on amplifiers as usual. I'm using limited cellular data to post right now."

Still no sprockets, so I thought I'd continue with the rear light.. Starting with this not quite flat steel sheet. By not quite flat I mean the sheet has had a big cross pattern pressed into it which I though would be good for the back of the light box.. Marked out ready for cutting. Lot's of chopping, welding and weld dressing later I had this. The cut out at the base is so the box can fit over the anit roll bar tube. These are the buld holders I will be using.. This ally plate is the right thickness to hold the er.. holders nice and tight, so five holes and a bit of cleaning up later.. To mount the bulb holder plate to the inside of the light box but leave enough space behind for wiring etc I made one of these.. Captive nuts welded on the back. A quick bulb test fit. Curved panel made to fit the anti roll bar hole.. But before it was welded on the bulb holder plate was plug welded in.. Checking the bulb holder still fit.. They do A view inside. Lot's of welding and weld dressing to do.. That looks better Best check it still fit's MadTrax!! It does Some of the welds down the sides needed a few extra blobs of weld to tidy them up.. The front edges needed a bead of weld to fuse metal together.. To make life easier I clamped on a flat brass bar to weld against as welds will not stick to the brass.. As you will of noticed on the above photo the longest which is also the top panel is a little on the wonky side.. A big thank you to Rob for the square which came in handy for showing how wonky wonky is.. As the metal is too stretched to hammer flat some extra straight strength needs to be added.. Starting with a strip of double skinned steel. Most of one skin was cut away leaving only a small rolled edge sort of thing. A quick trip to the sheet metal folder which I should use more than I do! Plug welded inside.. The bit of black box section is only to make sure everything clamps down flat.. Can you spot a slight problem here? Yep, the box is such a good tight fit it won't come back out again! The next step was to make some mounts for the rear light, but a parcel turned up containing these sprockets The rear light is going to have to wait, getting the drive train finally finished needs to come first.. Soooooo, the first sprocket on the lathe being bored out to a larger ID..

Hi Jim, I can see a few scrap pile trips coming up on MadTrax, a tow ball will be going on the back, ideal for a small trailer Hi CountryRock, there is quite a big update to come so watch this space.. "Quite a project" might be a tad of an understatement... It's what happens when you get carried away and things evolve Hi all, sorry for the total lack of updates of late. I knew I was a bit behind but didn't realise Feb 21st was my last posting! I'd best get on with an update.. While digging through the Quadzilla wiring loom for connectors to pilage I found something that would most certainly be a good upgrade.. So this small bracket was made.. It was welded onto the frame just under the seat. If you hadn't guessed it holds up a modern fuse block, much better than the old Honda one With the 4 wheel drive bit wired in, the time had come to think about lights starting with the er.. headlamp.. Not having the correct bulb holder (which would of been for a really old style bulb anyway) I had this problem to overcome! I had an idea on how to solve the er..gap problem but not the materials until Nigel found me this old pully.. Thank Nigel No photo's of all the lathe stages (plenty of that in the next video) but the pulley ending up looking like this.. The shallow slots were done with a milling bit in my pillar drill. Not ideal as the bed does try to move sideways! The bulb pokes through like this. Then the whole thing drops into the back of the lamp bowl. The little black slot through the bowl is a handy bolt hole, as is the one the other side Now something to hold the bulb to the holder. Starting with this.. Thanks again Nigel It was turned into this.. Which of course fits here.. I found some nice small bolts to use but I didn't have a tap to cut a thread..... So I made one Best test it.. Yep it works... Lots of drilling, thread cutting and countersinking and bolt shortening later.. Tad-Daaa A lot of work for something that won't be seen

A friend of mine asked me to come over and plow her rather large garden. I’m really busy right now, BUT not too busy for some seat time on GhostRider with a Brinly in tow! I gave a shout out to my local circle buddies and Dan @Achto decided to bring out his newly restored Raider. We had a great time turning earth! I had added the front wheel weights and decided to plow with the Punisher which may have been a little ambitious given the damp soil and plowing uphill one direction! However, GhostRider handled it fine. spun a little here and there but —MAN—did it feel good to be back in the saddle! So thankful to Dan for coming out and playing in the dirt with me, we finished just ahead of the rain. Can’t wait to do more plowing with all my plowing buddies. More story, pics and video in Dan’s resto thread for his Raider...

Was far too pretty outdoors... to leave your indoors today.

Try warming the area that the bearing sets in. then hit the case behind the bearing with a mallet or dead blow hammer. They may pop out. Or get a blind hole bearing puller set. https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary/hand-tools-and-tool-sets/pid=93989053 Another way is to pack the bearing with grease and use a shaft in the hole and force it out with hydraulic pressure

Prior to 1960 there was a model DP-118 with eight 11" discs making a 32" width. Garry

Yes it is wheel horse. I can't remember the model number for them. But they are Wheel Horse.

I'd been wondering how you were getting on with this project Mark, looks like your on to a cracking start