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I bought another project tractor about a month ago and I made a new flag to make it easier to swap out my snow blower from my other tractor. Not because it is hard to do but just for something to do.

I would also run Seafoam through the gas as well...

If ethanol blended fuel was ever used in that tractor it is highly likely the fuel lines have rotted internally and deposited small particles in the carb and may have plugged up the check valves in the fuel pump - that is really common, the stuff is evil. Not only use ethanol-free fuel, but replace every inch of fuel line, clean/inspect the pump if it's possible and rebuild the carb along with a deep cleaning. Might want to do the spark plug as mentioned too - ethanol will damage them over time. Welcome aboard...btw. Sarge

When draining the transaxle it is important to jack up the front of your to get complete draining. Also, a new rubber boot on the shifter is a good idea. Ethanol free gas should be used to protect the fuel system from damage. As suggested above, Seafoam will do a good job of cleaning the fuel system. https://www.pure-gas.org/

I have no problem painting the wheels on a patina tractor. Whatever you decide it will look fine.

Note: When you clean a starter shaft (that goes out to engage the gear-flywheel, then retracts), WD-40 is great for cleaning it to dissolve the oil, grease & crud, BUT, WD-40 is not a lubricate, it will not stay on the shaft and does not protect it, actually leaving it unprotected. Always use a heavy grease (I like to use white lithium grease, but there are probably are even better lubricates). That starter shaft is exposed and in a very dirty environment and must be cleaned at least annually, then lubricated, otherwise it will continue to stick and wear more and more often.

At that point I'd just start over with a new piece of metal, lol...hard telling why previous do what they do but it does make you scratch your head at times. I honestly believe that to own tools you need an exam and a proper license . Sarge

If you had one of these type of blades. I got this with the 520h and the guy said he used it to plow snow. So I did connect it to the front and it worked like a champ.i even posted it here to see if anyone ever seen this type setup. but I sold the 520h and kept this very heavy blade. But the one thing that you would have to overcome is the lift for both on the cylinder. You would have to put a winch on front for the blade and use the tractor cylinder to lift the tiller. To bad your so far away or I'd sell it to ya

I don't listen to music while working. Call me crazy but I find it annoying.

Based on the serial number sequence it would be a 1963 model 753. Your tractor would have left the factory with a Kohler K 161S spec # 28626E and a rating of seven horse power.

Virus-free. www.avast.com

64's are my favorite model of the lawn ranger...and for sure it's priced right..IMO.

Are you saying this extra pair of 1" five holes I have are like hen's teeth Steve? I may be able to part with the set pending an upcoming build I have.

Many thanks to you all for the help and information. The specification of my motor is as suggested above so now I know what I need. I have just had a delivery of parts from A-Z Tractors so I guess there may need to be another as parts over here are in very short supply. The killer is the shipping costs which are very high but we have to keep these great machines running! I have been mowing with mine for 29 years so I guess a little investment is fair enough. All the best from the UK

You can also hover your mouse over the "Browse" tab at the top left of the page, you'll see a link to the calendar in the list that appears there.

I thought I would try to make a tiller idler using an old deck hitch as a starting point. I used a little piece of 3/4" pipe to couple on a cut down 3/4" bolt. I think I used schedule 80 pipe but use whatever is basically a press fit. I then drilled and installed spring pins for added security. A 'V' pulley from a deck mule drive goes on the bolt. Two spacers are also made from pieces of 3/4 pipe but drilled or filed out until they are a slip fit. One has also been pinned into place. I added teflon washers for smooth operation but this is optional. This is the finished product. Here are the plans I drew up. Tiller idler plans 1.pdf Tiller idler plans 2.pdf I used a hydraulic press and 'V' block to bend the flat bar but I imagine you could heat and bend it in a vise as well. Cleat

You are good. The ball wasn't under the shift fork though it was in the oil. I'm thinking that whoever assembled this last tried to do it upside down with the wider case half on the bottom. When they put the other case on, the shift fork came out and so did one of the balls, but they slapped it together anyway. I will measure the overall axle width soon.

Thanks guys, Left him a message. Bout an hr drive for me. I'm going to go look like you've said can't hurt.

The Wheel Horse factory never used silicone or gasket sealer and neither do I. Really no need if you get everything clean. Yes you can pop out the seals and tap the new ones back in...I use a tool for pulling carter pins. The seals should be flush with the outside of the casting. As far as axle length, I am thinking that the Commando might have had the longest 1" axles that Wheel Horse used. Your axles are 1"...how long is your axle?

I am working on a couple decals for a customer who is re-powering a 62 lawn ranger with a HF predator 6.5 to make it look a bit more Wheel Horse. Can someone tell me the dimensions of the two factory decals on this engine? Thanks

You could do a winch to raise the tiller. Mounting the plow forward 3-6” should be ok. Might need to weld a new lift point onto plow. Personally I’d get another horse.

@Tankman I tried that once but she grabbed the stick and chased me around the yard giving me a wack ever step I took.

You might try this.......

@giddyap I think it's looking great so far. Looking forward to seeing the finished product!! Here's a pic of my Rat Rod to help keep you motivated.

Apple trees from an orchard are going to yield relatively short logs and probably not more than 12" in diameter. When you cut the trees and look at the top and bottom of log you can first determine if it has heart rot which is very common . If it doesn't it will probably have some decent board material in it. I would right away paint the ends on them with a couple of coats of any paint you have laying around to prevent checking enamel paint preferably.I use paraffin but not everyone has that around. It should then be milled as soon as possible. 6/4 or 8/4 would be ideal for initial drying. There is going to be a lot of waste since apple will warp and twist like no other. Even if it has heart rot it will have great pieces that can be used to turn small items such as furniture knobs and small bowls. Since logs will be short and not too thick it can be milled with a re saw band saw if available.One would have to devise a cradle to mill the round log.I use a vintage Makita with a 3" blade.

Any of the promoters have a schedule yet?????

Hello enthusiasts! I never knew much about Wheel horses or any tractor of any kind or much else besides. But over the last couple years of browsing Craigslist I got the itch to get my hands on one of these red machines. They look cool(at least the older ones with ag wheels) and they seemed rugg d and they have attachemnts which justify t hem far beyond simple riding mowers. I just got one the other day with tiller and plow and deck for $300. I’m excited cause it seems like a good deal! But the things been sitting for five or six years and has some problems: I drained old fuel and spray cleaned carb and replaced some of the fuel line and filter but motor still won’t stay running longer than eight or ten minutes. Should I replace all the fuel lines? I did try running with gas cap siting loose. Gas flows free from fuel cock. Gear oil in rear end/ tranny was thick and foamy. I drained it and drove it around a bit with two qts kerosene instead,as I saw suggested somewhere here. Will that clean it out well enough? Also wondered if there was a thread on hitching up tiller attachement with pics? Cant wait to get it going and trying it out! Thanks in advance.

I have the opertunity to buy either a model 607 or a 656. Each of them are $300. First of all is this a good price for either of them? The 656 comes with a deck and the 607 is just the tractor its self. Both are in good shape and both run good (so I’ve been told, don’t know for a fact) Second which one is better for farm use/plowing snow? Farm work would just consist of pulling around a yard cart with horse manure. I haven’t seen much about these models so that’s why I’m asking.

Yes! I have. They are a good resource for parts. Ships fast.

I often thought about this myself, I used to till the hard ground, switch attachments and put the plow on to move the material around. I have found that the easiest way to solve this is to just have a tractor for each implement. This way you can just jump from one tractor to another!!!

Nice job.Looks better than original equipment.

They came off a 1055 Dino You talking 'bout this Crazy?? http://www.atltf.com/ Note they got a on the home page but color is somewhat sacrilegious!

Visit Glen in this post: GlenPettit 1,513 #3 Posted December 11, 2013 Indicator Gas Gauge LENS CAP Replaces the original 113/16"OD clear indicator Gas Gauge Lens of your Kelch or Bemis 6" gauge that has probably yellowed and cracked over time to the point where you cannot see the dial. Simply remove your old lens and glue in this new one with 2-3 drops of glue. The small Vent Hole is located out the side of the small raised center dome, going out horizontal, to almost eliminate the chance of any dust or water from getting in. If your float is still OK, why spend $15 for an entire new gauge. This offer is for the Epoxy lenses only, not the gauges shown. The lenses are 98+% translucent and will fit any Kelch, Bemis or similar (21/2"OD cap) with any length stem and many other brands of Garden Tractors use this same indicator gas cap lens. These Lenses are $5 each, plus $3.50 first class shipping (for up to six lenses). (Dec. '17) Prefer personal check or m.o. over PayPal (or just add their 5% service fee): Orders may be combined. -GlenPettit@WheelHorseForum.com . . . for PayPal transfers, use: GlenPettit@WheelHorseForum.com Glen Pettit * 1541 N. Michigan Road * Eaton Rapids, MI 48827-9225 Edited February 2 by GlenPettit

Using the old noggin & on-hand pieces. A man after my own thoughts

someone had way too much time on thier hands but it’s so cool.

All right...am I good or what!!!

Had that problem before and it occasionally happens with some.It happens more with tractors that sit for a while. Removing starter disassembling Bendix and cleaning all old dry oily residue, and then lubricating with graphite always fixed the problem. I found that any other lubricant eventually dries out and creates that problem.

That answers the question, thanks! I'll take a look at the link. I'm into other old equipment other than tractors (hit & miss engines, antique Maytag engines, etc.) I have some stuff to post there when I'm done restoring them.

I would replace the spark plug while you're at it, it's easy and can't hurt, might help. Replacing all the old fuel line might help too, it's likely there's junk in there too from sitting for so long. And

@oliver2-44, yes I believe the xi hitch is the same width but a bit pricey $130 (shipped)new, and hard to find used, @BOB ELLISON, that front blade you have looks to be originally from a PowerKing as that was my first attempt on my Kioti before I went 4way hydraulic, Jeff.

I had a lot of Jay Cutler memes in PB

Well, you just saved me from trudging through knee deep snow tomorrow As the guys mentioned, the springs are the same and it's just the stop pin that's different in the 5060. The center detent is the neutral. See the difference in these. The one on the right is in your transmission. The left will be the 5060 but they could also look like the picture I posted earlier with the grooves all the way around. No matter. You can use the 11/16" stop pin with any rails but if you have the equal, shallow detents you have to use the 11/16". The 3/4" can only be used with the deeper neutral detent rails. Your gears look very useable but I'd be more concerned about the inner teeth of the 3523 gear. Here's a shot of a NOS and a worn gear (but probably OK in a non-worker)

Right Richard, but he needs to verify the numbers before he can pursue that. I'm guessing that he has Kohler K 181 S spec # 30461D...if that is true, looks like 2 starters might work. The number should be on the starter. It is kind of fun to go through this manual and try to figure out what you really have.

Might be time Zeek... to let that one go too.

What do you think... how's it look?

Obtaining usable wood form an apple tree is pretty much like panning for gold. Lots of work, time, and patience. In the end, the reward is all worth the effort. Apple trees have usually lots of defects and it is a highly unstable wood rather hard to dry properly. Once you get past all the difficulties the result is often a beautiful wood similar to cherry but with distinctive character and personality most of that from the defects on the tree. Usually the largest boards obtainable are only large enough to use as panels on small cabinet doors. If you were closer I would definitely would get a trailer load from you.

Did another 4" yesterday and about wore out the Shepherd again - man has he gotten fat and out of shape, lol. He enjoyed the exercise and getting outside for awhile... QUESTION - Anyone else with a D ran into the rear side of the blade, sector and linkage getting full of ice from the engine melting any snow that comes over the top of the blade ?? By the end of the day it was almost 1-1/2" thick and the blade was cutting ferociously from the extra weight - which it doesn't need as it's gotten quite a lot heavier during the "rebuild" . I think it's just the heat coming off the big Kohler - it blows out the front of the grill and heats up the back surface of the blade - had to use a big wooden block to knock it all loose before putting the old girl away. I have some snow plow rubber strip just for the top of the blades - plan to install those this week when it warms up and may give it a set of wings as well. Sarge

@cpete1 just remember, anyone can have A reputation, but a good reputation is priceless. As for templates, I destroy most of my cardboard during the process of making what it is I have a template of. they get grease, silicone or spray on them and then they are worthless. I usually burn them in the trash. If I need another, I just take the part off and retrace it. For the dash, I just used the original plate. I cut a groove with a cut off wheel to match the original(got it straight the first time) and then cleaned it up. @953 nutThe chrome decal looks nice. I might trace out the holes and send Terry a template to make a decal for it. I have to get some engine decals made anyways. I appreciate the comments guys.

So yes, the newer head was a dead ringer for the older head! She is all back together now and seems to be running great. I wasn’t a fan of the chrome stack on a “patina” machine so before I fired it up it got a light sanding and a few coats of hi-temp black paint....much better !