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I tested my new generator tonight. It works!

I just wanted to share with everyone that I was able to replace the original bearing that was 3/4" ID and 2" OD with one from Tractor Supply. The only thing I had to do was locate a replacement housing for the bearing, which happened to be located right next to the bearing. The holes line right up with the existing and the total cost was $20.The bearing was almost impossible to locate since I didn't want to spend $70+ for the wheel horse branded one. Part numbers are 11-95125(bearing) and 11-98409(housing). See the attached pictures for more information. Let me know if you have any questions or concerns. The bearing being replaced was the upper on on the shaft that runs the chain.

I've never really felt applying decals was that much of a challenge. Might just be all the experience I've acquired applying the old water slide decals during my scale model building days... that gives me the confidence? I typically only like to use factory originals whenever available...regardless of their age. To my eye, new vinyl, and the modern printing process just can't compare to the originals. I remember taking a chance on Ebay auction, obtaining an over 30 year old NOS factory original T-stripe for the hood of my AMX. Everyone told me there is no way it would ever work, don't waste your money...let me tell you, that thing turned out sooo nice.

Hood hinge almost done. So I decided to try my hand at multitasking. So I have this foot pedal assy from an un-named green tractor that I am going to try and use on this. It mounted below the foot rest. How ever the gt14’s footrest is too wide for this to sit right. So I figured if I cut it right down the middle, sleeve the rods and weld a wider backing plate to it, I can mount it right to the bottom of the frame and bring the pedals right up through the right foot rest. This tractor will never mow anyways. After the paint that was put on it and the abuse it was put through, Skittles will have nice life. More to come as it progresses. The picture with the red background I borrowed but this is the same assembly I will be using.

@WV Hillbilly, That sure is a cool tractor. Looks like a good way to spend A LOT of money, I count about $4800 in IH suitcase weights alone. The best way to become a millionaire pulling tractors is to start with 3 million.

Ok so while you guys are showing off your rears here's my method. First I take a big swig off the bottle of Wild Turkey just to get up the gumption up for a eleven thumbed idiot like me to even attempt ruining a $40 decal. Nobody ever told me I was supposed to clean the SURFACE with alcohol. Then I take the decal and crumble it up and rip it in a couple of places. Hey it's gonna happen so I may as well just get it over with. Then I peel the backing off and just slap it on like I was wackin the wife's bottom. I get about the same results from the decal. After a couple more pulls off the turkey it looks fine. Did I mention I usually buy two sets & I am on Vinyl Guy's Christmas card list? When I sober up and see how it really looks I take the second set over to @Achto's place and let him put it on! Seriously Richard @953 nut your rear looks great, you get that one from Terry? Never mind found it! Gotta have one! Speaking of @Vinylguy get some popcorn there's a movie https://www.redoyourhorse.com/installation-tips/

Jim maybe the problem is your trying to use Delta parts on a Kohler ...

Yes you can use this method. When you wet it with (dish) soapy water, the soap helps keep the decal suspended on the liquid till you get it where you want it. Squeegee the water out from under the decal getting all the bubbles out and then park it in the sun for a couple hours.

I was thinking more like this, go big or go home I was told...

Yes it it should go to a good home with someone who has the time to do it right.

Any body remember these beauties? Laying the wood grain down on these was always a joy!! The wheel openings were a major PITA. Back when I worked as an auto body tech, we had one customer that drove their Caravan by feel.. I replaced 4 fenders, + other damage on that van alone, in about a years time. ( Didn't like seeing that van pull in the yard ) It did give opportunity to acquired a little bit skill with vinyl. Luckily my current job allows me to lay down some vinyl once and a while, so I keep me in practice.

Oh I know, I have buddies my age playing in the truck pulling game spending way too much $ to earn a $20 plastic trophy, I drove one time in my buddies $5k "street legal" 400 Pontiac powered GMC and got the truck a best distance ever of 262' for 2cd place, the other buddy has $50k in a short bed Chevy with about 10 trophies on the bookcase that was 7 years ago...I'll stick with my "street legal" car playing on the streets scaring old women and young children ...

More my style.... Mean Ole Allis was one of the tractors to beat in the 70’s and 80’s .

Soooo true!

Sorry Josh ...couldn't resist! Actually I do see some possibilities .... a bracket something like these, clean it up, figure out what those gator clips might be for, some rewiring, Biggest problem might be getting that pulley off for internal work & to get it spinning at the correct rpm per Dan's specifications. I'd take a crack at you get that pulley off. Any nameplate for research on it?

.....That’s way to nice to part out . Save a horse , this one of course !

Cool setup there for sure My son picked up a "home built" generator with his JackRabbit. Once we have the tractor running, I want to test it and do some organization of the external box, gauge, and wiring. I'm hoping that my local expert @Achto will be able to guide us through this process. I can see a lot of possibilities with it....

How much you want for it as it sets? without attempting to fix it...

These are some great historical photos... click anywhere on the right side of each photo to move to the next one RareHistoricalPhotos.pps - Google Slides

The right side bearing should be a simple fix because the right 1/2 of the case can be removed with transmission staying in the tractor. That would leave the differential free to slide out so the left bearing could be changed. Garry

Grandson needed a stack for “his” Horse.

Got this one in a tractor package deal... sold the tractor then, kept all it's free attachments. Original owner claimed to have only ever used it one time.

Looks like the seller has provided plenty of pictures and isn't trying to hide anything. Even let a buyer know that the gear box shaft is loose and would need repair. He has a 100% rating and deals in outdoor power equipment. Looks like it just needs a few repairs and a good oiling as the patina is already there. Would I give his asking price, no but if I were to put mine up for sale on a worldwide auction I would start a lot higher.

can’t wait to see this come together—I may have to copy on Blackbeard since it will be 10 years before Zach is old enough to restore it to original with me. I have access to some parts that I can modify for now and yet keep the original parts for installation During the restore. YOU—> ME—->

I might add, before removing the old decals take pictures and measurements to aid in getting the new ones to being put back as close to original and possible, with that you could also lay down blue/green painter's tape as guide to help keep them straight and use dish soap and water or get window tint film application solution sold at Walmart or a car parts store to help aid in keeping the air bubbles out, Jeff.

It's good to have an expert like Dan close by, isn't Jim! When it comes to the letters for the JackRabbit, I'll have to give him a shout...

Good safety tips and suggestions on wall finishes. When I insulated mine I put Hard Board on the bottom 4 ft and peg board to the ceiling. Not fire proof, but saved on my back as it's lighter to manage than drywall, and gave me lots of places to hang tools and other stuff. Now if I could just get around to cleaning it up every once and a while......

A good clean up, an addition of some exterior out let boxes ( instead of loose cord hanging out of the bottom ), get your mounting figured out. It already has a volt meter, but I would also like to see a frequency meter on it. With these changes I think you'll have a right nice set up Josh

You have an amazing way with words Eric! It’s a 5KW generator made by WINPOWER. I’m guessing by looking at it that it is more than 30 years old. Not pictured is long pieces of angle iron that bolt to the frame to hold it on. I would like to fabricate a hitch though that works with the front attach-a-matic with a support strut like the factory setup. It has a residential exterior Square D box. I want to reorganize all the exterior wiring and make it durable and streamlined... I’m open to thoughts and ideas from the electrician’s here to make it the best, convenient setup possible since I’m not bound to keep it original...

I'll get some from my phone--I'm at the computer now. It was marketed as a factory setup but I knew as soon as I saw pics it wasn't. I was initially disapointed but when I realized that it was a 5KW unit and it didn't matter how much I use it, I'm not wearing out a rare piece--I realized it likely was a good find. It isn't pretty right now but I'm confident that we can make a nice looking, functional piece out of it...One of my local cirle buddies told me that I shoul use it at plow days for some front end weight

Well, now that the workshop is in usable condition... I hope to start taking apart this c - 160 tomorrow. I suppose probably I'm going to have to make up a new thread and include some cool photos to keep everybody happy.

Someone either has wicked patience or way too much time on their hands, but on a more serious note @AMC RULESsuper sweet realistic modeling right there, Jeff.

That's what I used when I built the little SBC in my Malibu, and it did NOT stick to any of the clean parts...

Good to know... as I just set up another mini-plow Horse here today. Can't wait to get some seat time on this little guy before the season ends.

Put the lights on the cab, linear actuator on the chute deflector, little heat and a chute crank extension. Motorized chute rotator later. Predicting about 10" of wet and heavy Monday.

Here is one suggestion that is not the cleanest but works extremely well and is low price. Every time that you change your oil, take your waste oil and spray it into known problem spots. Example: get it up between the inner and outer wheel wells, inside the door bottoms, in the rear quarter lowers, inside the rockers, and any other places known to rust. Oiled metal resists rust very well, oil will even soak into existing rust and hold it at bay. Oil will work its way to the out side where it can, but it's easy to wipe up and usually stops seeping out after a couple of weeks. Like I said this is not the cleanest method but it does work exceptionally well.

Well my old van is finally being replaced. For the last several years I have drove my 2005 Ford E-150. The van has never done me wrong and has hauled what ever I really needed to with no issues. But it has 384000 miles on it now and the new York weather has tooking it's toll on the lower sides of the sheet metal. So since summer I been searching for a replacement and last week Thursday I found one. Just went and picked it up today. 2006 Chevy Silverado LS 1500. No rust and super low mileage. The price was amazing so i jumped on the deal.

Just looked up an intake for my 06 Tundra. $162 for a red filter and $159 for a blue one. I've heard of "Retail Red" but not "Go Faster Red"!

That one with the 4.8L 5spd manual knocked down solid 18mpg with 3.73 gears on 265/16 tires, the intake kit is "Spectre" or Speed by Spectre sold at Advance and AutoZone I think like $120 or so, definitely less than K&N if anything it definitely sounded like opening the secondaries on a Quadrajet back in the day when pedalling hard, getting ready to add something similar to the '14 5.3 and the '06 5sd with 4.3 V6, Jeff.

I just received my decals for the 314-A and after reading this thread I’m a little confused. It seems the preferred method is used Windex or soapy water to apply the vinyl decal to windows but would this be the same process for applying the logos to the hood of the tractor?

That's baaadddd... I'm shocked you went there. Oh yeah you are! Agreed! There's a silver lining. ... and a very "original & interesting" style of weight.

Thanks Dan for weighing in here! This is your “current” (pun intended) livelihood after all! This is a small potatoes piece compared to the monsters that you are used to dealing with on a daily basis. I can’t wait to brainstorm on this piece with you and I’ll be sure to do a thread elsewhere to follow the progress... regarding age—If I can get the necessary parts to keep it going—I’d rather have something old and reliable than something new that will need to be thrown away in about 5-7 years! If I can’t get parts—I have about a 120# front end weight for plowing!

Can't beat the LS lineup in today's world.. unless you go diesel but that's a whole different story. We've got a '99 extended cab Silverado with 76k on the 5.3, an 01 2500HD with 185k on the 6.0, an 02 Suburban with 190-ish k on the 5.3, and an 11 Suburban with 165k on that 5.3. None get the best fuel mileage, but they sure do get the work done! Hey what intake is that? Looks like it'll move more air than the stocker for sure!

I'm on my phone which only has about a two and a half inch wide screen on it so I can't really see those pictures very well until later on today. But I was kind of thinking it was a lot more than 30 years old myself. Not that I'm any kind of an expert on generators. Or alternators. Nope. Not at all. Not even close.

Go pick it up and take lots and lots of

I paid 300 for this one last year. This was how it looked before I redid it. In working order too. I feel that 750 for an unrestored possibly not functioning sickle bar is crazy.

I paid $1400 for mine. '96 3/12-8 with 1-1/8" axles, magnum 12, 850 hours when I got it. Came with the 37" deck, bagger, 44" snowblower, cast iron weights and chains. Like others have said in the northeast they hold their value. Even the beaters command $500. Its incredible what 12hp can do. I've pushed and pulled way more than I thought a garden tractor could and I don't feel I've gone anywhere near the limit of the machine. Also mows as good as any commercial mower I've ever used.

Here is my method - I place a piece of masking tape along the top of the new decal. Use the tape to position the decal in place. After you have it measured out and are sure that it is where you want it, press the tape down tight. Then using the tape as a hinge, fold the decal up and remove the backing, at this time you may spray soapy water on if you wish. Bring the decal back down and squeegee the air / soapy water out. Always start in the middle and work the bubbles to the out side.

You know how it goes @squonk start messing with fuel lines and all the crud shakes loose! Them boys at NAPA want you to step behind the counter just for old times sake? Worked a little on the 12 hp tonite again then figured out what I forgot and promptly threw in the towel. Can you spot it (hint this is a magneto motor).