Leaderboard

Never saw one before so I had to build it. 200 lbs of rocks and gouged out an old stump. No fail. The little son-of-a-buck wouldnt quit. I love it. The little LR will never plow a field but dont ever say its not robust enough for ground engagement. Thats nonsense. Just another example of how they built lawn equipment in the 60's. I have a bone stock LR from '66 that I would never change. Great to have both a Jekyll and a Hyde.

hi men, just used this homemade hub puller to pull the hub on my son-in-laws C161. i also used my snap-on ball joint press tool to remove the stuck drawbar pin. worked great!! regards mike in mass.

hi all, here is my son-in-laws C160. i put new front tires on with the roller chain idea. brand new plow converted from the cable angling system (which did not work very well) back to the tried and true wh coat hanger system. if i can fab this anyone can. my SIL wanted a chrome skull somewhere on the tractor so on the angle control handle it went. removed the battery box, sandblast,prime and paint. new black pipe manifold for the exhaust with custom harley stack. i fabbed a bracket to add support for the manifold. my buddy harry fabbed the counterweight support for the gym weights. it fits great in the "Hitch guys" receiver. (they are a vendor on this site and make a great product!) i added some metal wheel weights that i had powder coated. new diamond style chains for the rear. i replaced both axle seals, the tranny drive pulley shaft seal, the brake band shaft seal and fresh gear oil in the tranny. fresh oil in the engine and new air filter with prefilter installed. greased all zerks. i put on a new brake band from maynard and it stops on a dime! my bud mark painted the floorboards and belt cover. i added a couple decals from terry (another great vendor and product) and new floor board mats from another vendor (classic kitchens, great product!) special thanks to my bud phil for the pics. regards mike in mass.

Might be one of those "lurkers" that will join up when they have technical questions or have something they want to show off!

https://www.aumannvintagepower.com/project/details/9592/

It's my understanding that you have to be a member of WHCC to sell or show at the Big Show, but I don't know if they enforce it. Attendance is open to everyone. I just sold an RJ58 trans to a collector who apparently wasn't aware of Red Square. He said he took his wife to the Big Show once, and "she was freaked out by it", so he hasn't been back since. Next year, the Show is on my wife's birthday, and I already told her that I'm going to the show. I know I'll have to make it up to her somehow. I don't know how anyone can restore an old WH without all of the help available from the Red Square members.

With the pto ON the seat switch controls the ignition on most models. Check the wiring to the seat switch and make sure the operator's weight in the seat is actuating the switch. Hard to be on both sides of the seat at the same time. May need help to check that part. The idea behind it is if the operator falls out of the seat with the pto/mower running the engine will quit. If that is not the problem post the model number and serial number so we can find a wiring diagram. 33 different models in 1991. Garry

One has to wonder, who would have such a unit and NOT be a member here? People these days geez !!!!

@roadapples beat me to the punch. The WHCC show is open to anyone, member or not. In order to sell there though, you must be a paid-up,card carrying member.

A lot of old guys say they don't use a computer.... And no, you don't have to be a member of WHCC to attend the show. Although, like being a support member here, small price to pay for what you get...

In a non-scientific poll of people milling around the WHCC show several years ago, I found that the majority of the folks there are not members of RedSquare, and many have not even heard of RedSquare.

I think that's thinking outside the box. I can see all kinds of use's for that and it could be used on any tractor. I would love to know how you did it. Maybe a tutorial on how it's made and the lifts you used for it. I would love to have one. Great job.

Hello, im new to this site. Just picked up a good running 75 C100 with a front end loader on it. Hoping i didnt pay to much lol. Will be great addition for work on my property. Let me know what you guys think.

What's to "make up??!!" It's the big show. .... Searching for online assistance was how I found this AWESOME site. ..And I couldn't agree more. VERY much to all the people on

You'd be surprised at how many young whipper-snappers have never even heard of a Wheel Horse tractor.I know,I know......hard to believe.

Welcome to the best wheel horse site in the world. As you can see by the other posts we love these red beasts. There like kids in a candy shop. But to own one of these well built machines really is a great feeling. I never owned one until 2 years ago now I have 7. And if you want to know how to repair and maintain them you came to the right place.

After an hour of figuring the cab out in the garage I got it all put together and on the 416 and it's very nice, seems to get pretty warm inside as well. Winter will be the true test of that though

Haven't had time to post anything . Some new stuff enjoy !

Another one down the road to an unlikely buyer

I never new you Nut's exsisted till some told me id fit in well cuz i'm a double nut he said ! Thanks a lot ole buddy whom i wont mention

That statement is correct. Connecting rod bolt tangs MUST be flattened just to give clearance.

I could see someone owning a (1) WH and never become a member . Wheel Horse manufactured alot of tractors in their years. In my travels, if I see someone using a Wheel Horse, I stop and "shop" talk to them about their WH. Some never heard of RedSquare. Which is odd because if you search Wheel Horse on the web: you get WHCC and RedSquare forum. BTW: Bob, I was of the understanding that you had to be a member of WHCC (I am) to attend the Big Show. Is that true?

Nut welded on should do it. If you have a bolt/stud broken off close to, or just below the face of a casting, etc, find a washer with a hole the size or slightly smaller than the bolt, hold it over the bolt, then hit it with the mig. The washer should stop you welding the bolt to the casting. Then hold a nut, a half / thin nut is best, over the washer / bolt and fill the centre of the nut with weld. This usually puts enough heat into the assembly to allow you to crack it free. Good luck

Thanks for the reply! HA! Well I didn't smack the speed control shaft and didn't have to. I went out to two different autoparts stores and rented/ purchased a couple of tools. A Bolt driven tie rod puller and two sizes of pitman arm pullers. I check to see which one would fit the best and the only one that fit was the larger pitman arm puller with a 1 5/16" opening. It was s snug fit but grabbed on. I shielded the fuel tank with some 16g sheet metal and heated the arm up for about 20-30 seconds between both sides. Sprayed some PB Blaster on it and let it sit for maybe 10 seconds. I Slipped the pitman arm puller on from the fuel tank side and had to work it in and then had to shift the control arm forward and then was able to wiggle the puller on enough to fully center the bolt and finger tightened it. Grabbed the wrench and started turning... It took about five 1/4 turns and when I let go and took a look..... PING! Popped right off. You can see jut how dirty the top of the 1100 is from the leak and that's after wiping a bit of grime off. So glad I got the seals. Now to pull the seal off, clean up the shaft and get it cleaned up and put back together so I can finish my Snow Thrower Restore! Well I hope this helps someone out when trying to figure out how to get this arm off. I'll put a link to the seal replacement thread that I have to update from the past winter.

@TBusch to . If you are good with the deal you made, then the price was right! Plenty of folks looking for loaders, so you are 1 up on them!

Love to see even more pictures in time: loading up the containers, securing them in there, the dock, and then when they get to Denmark and where they may be going. I really enjoy seeing the building & insides over there, new owners, the Danish countryside, homes, farms, workshops, tools and their new horses working . . . keep 'em coming g hopefully . . . Glen

Well Skipper (Tom) and his family finally showed up at my Mom's house yesterday...along with Tom Cornford. They have been very busy horse russeling in the Mid West. They showed up with 2 large trailers full of Wheel Horses that are headed to Denmark. He got my 1972 Raider 10 with a tiller. Here are a few pictures. It was very nice to meet Tom and his family...nice to see my friend Tom Cornford again also. tieing down the Raider 10 Tom and family

I thought I'd maybe talked about this before, but Andy has got me wanting to pull together all the Original Wheel Horse dealers and corresponding stickers/badges/letterheads. I thought this would be a good place to start and post them - I can then add them to my site, and the stickers to my collection. Here's one from down your way on Simons GT14 B.H. White & Son Agricultural Merchants Cannington Bridgwater

@Dan693 Please front on your FEL I think a lot of us would love to have something like that on one of our horses.

Thanks to all who replied. Your comments were very helpful. Bill

@ztnoo, you are correct. Derek and a friend of his are the ones helping Tom with this adventure. The main issue Tom had was finding a place to leave the container while he picked up all the stuff to fill it. Most of the horse stuff came from east of Lake Michigan, so it just made sense to find a place on that side of the lake. My part in it was knowing and finding people that wanted to sell things Tom was looking for, and getting them together. I hope Tom comes in here and tells the whole story at some point. @Skipper

Exactly....

Paddle can sit on either side - it will build up some snow/ice on it regardless and on the back it will work more efficiently . You could use carriage bolts - I used to cut the square hole using a triangle or 3 corner file but it's much easier to use a 4 corner or square file to do them . Just made two square holes in the mower deck to fasten the discharge adapter for a lawn vac yesterday on the 16 Auto's 48" deck - I prefer the Simonds files in double cut , makes short work of making round holes square to fit carriage bolts . Air saw and small fine tooth blade works also but it's harder to control it and not make the hole too big - I've done that on thicker metals at times . Read up on using a file properly and they will work faster and last much longer - never use them to "saw" the metal - files are intended to work on the push stroke , never on the pull stroke which will quickly dull them . I surf the big auction site for US , German and Swiss made files in various shapes for a lot of metal work in fabrication and such - it's tough to find good quality files that will last and do the work correctly . To square cut a 1/4" hole you need a file about 6" long - go to whatever maker's web site you prefer and look for the part number and specs on sizing - there are a lot of variations depending upon either American Pattern , Swiss Pattern , Rifflers and needle files . Learning what is what type/style helps a lot in buying the correct one for the job . #0 or #00 in Swiss pattern double cut will leave a good finish and cut pretty fast - hunt for Grobet part number 31.349 6" square file , that one will cut 1/4" square holes nicely . Grobet is Swiss made quality steel - should last a lifetime if taken care of - files made in China or India , ect are hit and miss and usually much lower quality . I think now I have 7 different square files alone - use them a lot more than you'd expect . I still have many of my grandfather's hand files - all US made and still sharp with many being well over 50yrs of service now . In comparison , I've had brand new India made ones that barely did the one task I needed before dulling.... Just an fyi - Nicholson's newer files are not hardened the same way they used to be done . The new ones are still US in many cases but they will not last like NOS US made ones from pre-80's era . Same deal with Channelock brand pliers - they now use laser hardening instead of fully forging/tempering their metal - it's why the teeth round off so easily as they are only surface hardened . On tools I've worn out or need new types I end up many times making orders from International sellers to buy direct from Germany and Switzerland - they do not tolerate low-quality tools . Knipex pliers are horribly expensive and sold widely across the US - you pay for their quality but once you use them you'll never go back . Old stock Nicholson , Swiss Grobet and US Pferd as well as US Simonds files are made to last a lifetime - just don't drop one ....lol . Don't discount old stock US made files - a lot of really good makers have gone by the way of the Dodo bird in tools - I've got quite a few that I can't even find the history of the original company and they are some seriously high quality tools . In the end , I probably own far too many tools - but , nah....no way . Sarge

TO !!!!!! Looks like a nice strong running tractor. Just remember to put weights on the wheels/rear-end. To truly identify your tractor, you need to look at the ID Tag, usually located on steering tower. This ID Tag will give the model number and serial number. If you post that, then we will be able to determine for you the year.

VERY NICE...I WOULD BE AFRAID TO USE ALSO..I WOULD JUST LEAVE IN THE GARAGE FOR SHOW..LOL

Is this the same shipment Derek Workman of Plymouth, IN is working on? I saw some pics posted yesterday on Wheel Horse Junkies FB page of a shipping container loaded for shipment to Denmark. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10155216220917545&set=pcb.10154890477315952&type=3&ifg=1 Skipper, is this your deal being put together??

A local upholstery shop can also help you.

Me too! This is somehow getting mounted where the fan gear sits now. I will be using the stock steering tower as the power steering shaft is the same diameter as the gt14. I will simply mount the valve, insert the shaft and cut it to length, weld the pieces back together and reinstall the steering tower. Sounds easy, hope it is. Then I will get all my hoses made.

Thanks Todd! Power steering cylinder mounted. Need to get another 90* hose when I get them made. Mounting valve is next.

I've been looking for a while. The bolt holes just line up and the wire is a little tight between the fender and light. No drilling though. They were at Rural King. I think about three bucks each. Optronics MC42RS RED Marker/Clearance.

In some of the older Hardware stores there is a selection of springs in small drawers - can't recall who made them now but I've relied on those springs ever since I started building/repairing things . They are common wire sizes , diameter lengths , coil count and such and easy to find an exact match in many cases . There are some odd ones that used harder spring steel but most are honestly off-the-shelf common components . There was no reason to have a spring manufacturer make a proprietary part (except really odd stuff , like the HY unit for round hoods) . Most times I do exactly what Garry listed - wire diameter/coil OD/coil length/# of coils/distance to attachment type/style points . With that information - you can find nearly any spring . Beware using any from overseas - their wire hardness/ductility is not the same and many times will not last , break right away or corrode into a pile of dust . Sarge

I've been watching what this guy has been doing for a few years now - I have friends in the cnc industry and have watched far too many close their doors , companies selling out US workers because they won't invest into doing things differently to not just compete - but to beat foreign manufacturing . History teaches many lessons that we continue to ignore - this country is capable of doing great things just by building on our biggest strength - our workers and our desire to make things far better than anyone . It's far too long that we've allowed politicians to pocket lobbying money to move American jobs overseas in the interest of making Corporations more money for their shareholders - those same companies could just as easily do it here , cheaper and far better than sending it over the pond - it's not like we haven't done that before if you look at it from a Historical point of view . I've been screaming about this stuff since I graduated High School - foreign policy and the move to close manufacturing in this country at that time cost us 9 very large local manufacturers , and enough jobs to practically destroy my home town and the local economy . No good paying jobs left - so I went into the US Marine Corps instead of getting a job that would in the end last a lousy 6 months before that plant closed and moved to Mexico . There is no excuse - vote based on what they do - not what they say and hold them accountable for their actions . I'm so sick and tired of trying to find quality tools and parts that aren't overpriced and total crap for the money - I've literally ordered high quality stuff from overseas because our manufacturers that are left have not changed their ways and learned how to do this stuff right . Guys like Mr. Gilroy are what we need in this country - but we need thousands like him to get the point across and change things for the better . I always prefer to buy American when I can - I'm not afraid of an extra cost if the quality is worth the price , but in many cases the quality is not there and foreign manufacturing is kicking our butt in so many fields because of that , we can evolve and Mr. Gilroy has proved that along with a lot of others like him . It just takes a push by the American workers - and especially American Consumers to change things . Otherwise, we lose and have been losing for a long time now . Rant off , Sarge

I did some research on this spring and found some say the toro 83-2820 spring replaces #1230 spring. They are a little expensive for a replacement.

Somebody had to do it.

Kohler states in the K-Series service manual that their engines should not idle below 1100 to 1200 rpm due to the slinger type of lubrication.

Some of the old manuals say you can shift gears while moving. I am a believer of not doing that. Put your transmission in the gear you want, and ease your foot off the clutch. Throttle at about 3/4 speed. Always come to a complete stop to shift gears.

I think Lars used a place in Tennessee, that one of the members (inactive now) collected the parts and crated them...delivered them and the Tennessee shipper took them to the coast and shipped them to Norway. We have a thread about that (about 3 or 4 years ago now) where all this happened. It might help, if you let us know all the stuff you are trying to put together and where you are finding it. You may have to ship all that stuff to a member, who has to crate this and deliver it to a shipper. You will probably not get any volunteers unless they know exactly what they are getting into. This will work, we have done this before for people across the pond. Shipping stuff over seas is never easy, I have shipped enough stuff over there to know that, but you can get through it if you do the paper work, the ship is not captured or sunk and global warming has not sunk the port you are shipping from. Other then that....Piece of Cake!!

Apologies for not posting for quite a while but various things have eaten up my time over the last year. Picked up a 1972 Raider 10, 8 Speed (AKA 6 speed) today. It's in very original unmolested condition. I'll post a few pics over the weekend but the one below of the back of the seat really belongs in this thread. Seems Bostrom Baltic seats had serial numbers - didn't know that. Andy

Hello Redsquare, haven't posted for quite a while, apologies. Quite by chance I met up with Neil the other day (nice chap) we got talking about wheel horses so my interest was sparked. I took some pictures of dealer stickers from my tractors that have them. So... PA TURNEY '86 512-D FRIAR CLIFF '68 Raider 10 ROCHFORD '93 312-8 So to answer Aussies question Rochfords were wheel horse dealers and still sell garden equipment, they're about eight miles from me.

Here's another UK dealer I'd forgotten about this one - it was on my first D-200. The dealer appears to still be in business though at a different Ingatestone address. Andy