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Then, a quick polish using Mothers mag&aluminum polish... will keep 'em looking that way for the long term. Here's the before, and afters...

After an hour of figuring the cab out in the garage I got it all put together and on the 416 and it's very nice, seems to get pretty warm inside as well. Winter will be the true test of that though

@Terry M and I went for an early morning horse rustle. She's tight and rusty but will stay as original as I can make it.

I'm in NY between Rochester and Buffalo and I see them listed for a average of about 150-175. But there has been several times i've seen them listed for almost double that. But at the end of the day id say the value is in how bad you need or want them.

Well, the procedure has been scheduled for November 10th. See you all on the flip side.

Hi ( for those not familiar with the title it translates as 'Here in Sunny Devon') Thought I'd better join being as I've just rescued a wheelhorse complete with rotavator/tiller attached that has been left in a field for the past 5 years!. When I get my head around this forum I'll upload some pics. It's in a bit of a sorry state but looks all there. This is my first Toro but have read that it has a good solid reputation - plus I like to find knackered old agricultural stuff to bring back to life. ( I'll introduce my wife later 😳 We we have a Smallholding near Crediton where we live an organic, self sufficient lifestyle. Being closer to 70 than 60 I really appreciate machinery on the farm. righto, my find is: Toro Wheelhorse 416-8 8 Speed model 73440 serial 3900125 engine Power Plus 16, pressure lubrication obviously I don't have any manuals so would love a dialogue with anyone who can help with this aspect.

The market demand/or lack thereof, and seasonal/regional circumstances will determine the value and price. The seller is free to find where those thresholds are established at any given time. Seller perception of value is one thing, selling price reality maybe be entirely different.

@JAinVA here are pictures of my $40.00 vice , love the flea market in Blair Co Pa. Don't look at the mess on the workbench. I think the bench is there under the piles.

Used to be $1 a pound. Now 125-150 is considered reasonable. Always seems to be one unscrupulous out there trying to get $300 for them. Hope ya haven't run into that guy.

I guess this would fit into the "Tips & Tricks" section too but I'll post it here . ( Mods can move if they see fit ) Anyone who knows me knows little things drive me up a tree . A Zip - Tie with the end still on it , People not using their turn signal ...etc .. Here's another : Fall is fluid change time for the 4 wheeler and differentials and gearbox refills are especially difficult as a length of tube has to be added for access . With a fresh bottle , there are no problems but with an opened one that's oily , the hose just won't stay on the tapered nipple of the plastic cap !!!!! Here's my solution : Cut the tapered part off leaving a hole . Insert a barbed end fitting ( I think this one is 3/8 NPT ) Screw the summon-a-gun in and PRESTO ! No more hose squeezing off as you squash the bottle !!!

The spring in the first photo is for the PTO arm and lever just like mine in the photo

1. Yes, the clip is attached to that bolt and nut. 2. The spring (as far as I know) is to keep the arm from rattling. 3. Someone else will have to answer that one as I don't have that model tractor.

Welcome to the forum. Click on each picture below to take you to the file descriptions. You can also download the files from there. Garry

C-121 1978 Norway

A long long time ago there was a thread here about which wheel horse would be on your "wanted hit list". One of them was a GT-14 which thanks to Neil, one came my way.. A great machine which has now moved to pastures new.. The other I'm sure you can guess from the title was a D-200 Nigel bought this machine from Harry with the thought of changing the engine (which had a knock according to the bloke Harry bought it from), to something a bit different.. Then Nigel made the mistake of saying something along the lines of "I expect you will end up owning the D eventually". Which got me thinking A bit of a play with the wiring (The PTO switch had been badly by-passed) and the engine had a spark, and a temporary gravity fed fuel tank sorted out the fuel side of things.. Much to Nigel and my surprise the engine fired right up and sounded good with sign of any knocking sounds! The trans is a bit noisy but that may sort it's self out with a bit of use as the Big D hadn't been used in a very long time.. A few photo's for you.. And of course a video.... I hope to get an engine running and driving vid edited today, but for now here's an intro vid.. The D gets better each time she is driven. The engine always starts first time every time Speaking of the engine, a new vacum fuel pump was fitted so I could get rid of the "tank on a plank" that was clamped on the front and use the D's original tank.. The engine was also missing a cover, so I quickly folded one up from a bit of sheet steel.. Not pretty but does the job. The D's first official duty, carting some steel panels up from the scrap pile

My wife bought this for me last Christmas. After finishing a C121 I thought this would be a fun project. Little did I know at the time it would take 11 sometimes extremely frustrating months. This one was truly an education but I had lots of help from the folks here at Red Square, Stevasaurus in particular. My neighbors father who is now 92 came to my rescue when I "couldn't see the forest for the trees" with the ignition. So...... Here she is!

Happy SVS I Had My Only 3 Horse’s Out Today A RJ59 A 1968 500 Speical & My 1989 312-8 For My Lawn Care Services & Snow Removel Buisness & Of Couse Dirt Work Also Lol The RJ Will Be Plowing My Driveway In The Winter Times Only

Thank you!!!!

It’s not in my opinion unscrupulous to list them for sale for what ever value seller places on them. If it’s too high, then don’t buy. 175.00 is getting to be the average buying them ala Carte in these parts. but if you try and get them in late fall/winter the price will be inflated. i find getting them in a package deal with a tractor I need or one I plan to pull parts for is most cost effective. I agree with @953 nut on cost for 953/1054/GT14 Weights. Usually well into 200plus range. and if that seems high, don’t even look for the C195/Case style 15 inch weights

After I got the wiring done...then came time for new rear tires. I opted to go with Hi-Run 23x10.50-12 ag tires for the rear. Picked them up at Tractor Supply for $89.99 a piece. Here is one of the new tires beside the tractor, and one beside the old rotted original 23x8.50-12 turf tires It turned out to be quite a chore discounting the old tires from the wheels. They were rusted on so badly I ended up having to cut them off. These pictures are from that fun filled afternoon. After all the trouble I went through getting the old ones off I decided to go ahead and have our local tire shop mount the new ones. Charged me $20 for both of them, money well spent in my opinion. I them loaded them with 6.5 gallons of winter blend windshield washer fluid per tire. Did this step myself, started with one of those little inline pumps that runs off a drill. Burnt it up on the first tire, ended up using an old RV water pump I had laying around to finish them. A couple after the first one was on the tractor to compare it with what was on there. And finally with both new tires on. Haven't got to really work her yet but I think I'm going to be really happy with these

Looks good . Definitely a plus in wet windy weather. I actually have to open the door once in awhile to cool it off. I have a flexible dryer pipe coming off of the cylinder block fins near the exhaust valve area for heat. Kohler 16 model. Nice and toasty. You will like it.

Same idea as most, but I put my chain block on a 10 foot trolley. Back saver. When I build my new shop I will probably get an electric hoist.

This pic should explain the piece your talking about.

Does it stall out when it gets hot? Is it getting gas at carb? Thinking maybe starved for fuel? Vent cap plugged on gas tank?

Welcome to the forum. First thing I would do is try a new pair of spark plugs designed for this engine and properly gap the electrodes. Spark plugs can fire out of the engine but fail when in the engine under compression. Spark plug gap is critical in magneto ignition systems. Too small a gap results in weak spark. Too wide a gap can compromise the insulation on/in the ignition coil because it will release that energy somewhere if it can not fire the plug. If new plugs don't make it run remove them and save for the next time Garry

They do make pumps for the qaurt sized bottles Gear oil pump (walmart link)

After looking for a suitable steering wheel on the internet without success, one was made up. Lots of ready made wheels but too large, too small, near enough the correct diameter but with a rim much too thick for scale etc. A local metal fabricator advertised various scroll work items for gates, garden furniture and so on. A visit was made expecting them to have a ring rolling machine. "Never heard of one" was the reply from one staff member. He called another older person, same answer. When I asked how they made the scroll work they advertised, "We don't, we buy it in ready made from China". Chris, Mr Showman, Sutton had previously mentioned that a friend might be able to roll a ring up. Within a few days I had a 7:1/2" ring x 3/8" section. The hub is a previously drilled cap screw with the spokes from flat strip jammed between two nuts after having a bend made at the inner ends. After trimming the spokes to length and clamping down Chris welded all the joints up. Thanks Chris. I keep thinking I ought to buy a welder but it probably wouldn't get much use. Grinding the welds down was easier than expected, especially around the hub, using a Dremel. A slot was cut in the cap screw head for a roll pin which together with a nut held the wheel onto the column. Two short pieces of tube were pressed / hammered over the nuts and all the joints blended in with filler. The last photo shows the pin resting on the head of the cap screw which is the column bush. This still needs a sleeve over it to finish off. Also a cap made for the wheel center. I should have made the spokes with a steeper angle but too late now. My great grandson, pictured above, liked it anyway.

I bought this years ago on the big auction site - have never seen another one since and seller had it listed as out of the WH factory in South Bend . Unfortunately , old dead fingers dropped it once too often and it's cracked badly . There is a process to weld with special filler rod and the tig , but I don't want to damage the logo on it and keep it original . Sarge

I asked Terry @Vinylguy if he could reproduce a dealer advertisment from one of my Dealer Binders into a decal, this is what i sent him And this is what he came up with ! Not only did he make the decals like i wanted he made them into his awesome aluminum signs too! Cant wait to hang it up! Again THANKS TERRY!

Some ideas here... always loved these old classics Terry.

Here's a fun trick. Take an empty antifreeze jug. Drill a hole in the cap and install a male air hose fitting into it and put a nut on the inside of the cap to keep it together. Connect an air line to the jug and wait for an unsuspecting friend, wife or brother-in -law to come in the shop. Plug the opposite end of the air line in, wait like 10 seconds and then BOOOM!!! For even more fun. Put a quart of water in the jug. Amaze your friends, Loads of laughs.

I'm working on something for all support members. Time to upgrade your mugs and tumblers. I'll see what I can come up with.

I suare... I'm due for a new one too Terry.

Jim wishing you the best! My father had a bout w cancer if the bile duct 7 years ago. Duct was removed and intestine tied directly into the liver. Liver had some cerosis, this is all due to having Hepatitis c. About 30 days post op he began collecting fluid on his abdomen. Approx 10 liters were removed every 10-15 days for 4-8 weeks via a shunt. Finally the surgeon recommended a procedure. A line was run from low pressure side of heart to the abdomen. A "primer" was used inline and installed by his hip. He would "prime" just like a small engine 2x a day while lying flat in bed. He pushed the button 10x to prime. Then the fluid would get pulled from abdomen thru heart and give his kidneys a chance to get nutrients from fluid and filter it out via urine. Crazy as it sounds worked! The pump was left in between 30-60 days. Dr said it could've been romeved aroubd 30 days. It gave the liver enough time to heal from surgery and chemo. I really thought my father was going to die. A year later they came w a cure for hepatitis c. $35000 month for 6 months. There were grants in place to cover the costs, we didn't have the $$$$. Today he's hepatitis free. His liver hasn't been this good in 20 years. And he's still here. I hope you're as lucky as my father was!

I remove all the paint on mine. Gas will remove almost all paint if it gets on it. I would clean off the paint that's on it. I think bare aluminum looks good Just me I guess. Or you can paint it . I have seen them painted and they look fine.

I would like to send out a big Thank You to @gwest_ca for all of the excellent responses he makes and the great job he does with our Manuals section.

More Photos. Making progress and switching paint choices up a tad... I know it's the factory paint scheme butt I think that it will look pretty good. Along with being freshly painted I also like contrasting colors. I got the auger all straighten up and a couple of breaks in the chute paddles fixed. The helix's had some dents, bends and sharp edges. I went through the whole thing and straightened everything the best I could. I wire wheeled everything that I could reach my 4.5" grinder and then hit the inner portion of the helix's with 80grit and that did a decent job. The rest, I slopped some navel jelly on and that did the best I cold ask for the condition. I washed it down thoroughly with some warm water and dawn dish soap and called it day. Last step before self-etching primer was to hit it was rust stop and I'm sure that took care of the rest of any left over rust I couldn't get. After all, it's going to take abuse anyhow and I'm sure this wont be the last time I pull it off and take care of it again. This was the best I got without hitting the housing with 5 cans of filler primer... This was the area of concern when I was curious about sanding and applying some filler over to create a better finish. The top section of the chute turned out pretty good. Definitely better than it was. Some urethane clear coat and some silicone should allow the snow to fly right out without issues. As you'll see there are a few pits on the tip and sides. This was where there wasn't any paint and covered in rust when I went to go just replace bearings... I could stand to look at it for another winter. Once again... BEFORE: AFTER: And Finally.... Here is where I decided to change the course of action for paint scheme. This is primed but will be black.... As the pulley's and drive shaft, bearing flanges and skids will all be...

He lives in many places.... Quite a few of him here too...

I don't know... I see listings from "that guy" in a bunch of different states.

That's a great find right there!

You will find that this is a very easy site to work with and great people too. Photos are very easy to post, as you make an entry just click on the choose files--- at the lower left side and it will take you to your pictures file on the computer, make your selection and click on it then click on open. The photo will be downloaded to the bottom of your text, click on the + (which will be over the photo) and the photo will be added to the text. Most questions about the site have been answered here; http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/forum/56-finding-your-way-around-in-redsquare/

I have used a fine wire wheel on my grinder to clean them up, makes the aluminum shine pretty good and the brass adjustment needles almost look polished.

You can do coffee cups ? That is one thing very near and dear to my crusty old heart , Terry... Sarge

Terry does great work . Wonder what he could do on Wife for sale sign ?

Jim, I wish you the best. Praying the Lord's hands will be directing the surgeons and nurses as they perform your procedure. I pray for your recovery and hope you have plenty of rest and little pain. Take care my friend! Here is a blue thumbs up for you!

Haven't noticed this one before, but we will say a special prayer for you and wish you a speedy recovery along with the others.

1960 Suburban Model 400... & 1961 Suburban Model 401.

Prayers for a successful outcome of the surgical procedure. Hopefully it will allow life for you and your family to get back to normal.

I keep my running horses in my shop, with the thermostat set at 40f, the results of to many years of chasing no starts in the winter. probably one of the best economical ways to preheat a cold horse is to put an incadesant light bulb under the engine/battery for 45min or so prior to trying to start. oops you can't buy them any more, try a little 1 or 1.5k ceramic brick heater under the tractor and throw a couple of blankets over the tractor like Glenn described above, preheating the oil will allow it to flow better for proper lube on startup and warming the battery will help it work better. I don't remember the specific details but batteries lose efficiency fast when they are cold. another quick easy way to preheat a horse is with a torpedo heater pointed at the tractor be careful the heat is intense enough to melt plastic parts etc