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I have a 42 SD Deck to repair. Two of the pulleys released one did not. The center two pulley drive spindle was cut off and removed with great force. Cutting the spindle as well. I never made a pulley before so it was a good project. The critical spacing for the pulley was the lower one ( smaller) with the deck belt so it would line up with the other two pulleys. The top side was less critical as it just just to the PTO side alone. Dimensions were copied from the existing spindles and the original mangled pulley. The double small same size pulley on right is for the bagger unit. Curious to see how the now heavier Steel pulley runs on the deck, Comments and Questions Always Welcome.

Don't do that! Unless you want to rebuild your transmission soon it is important to NOT shift while in motion. I suppose the added traction of duals would be able to contribute to this, but the best advice I can offer is to add more front weight.

I understand that Lowell, @wheelhorseman has lots of these and will be glad to keep you supplied! https://www.wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/transmissions.html#!/3523-3rd-gear/p/84932562/category=23548039

I recently picked up a 1970 Charger 12 to bring back to life. The engine sounded real good and didn't smoke. The hydro didn't have any problems but the mower deck looked like it took a direct hit from a RPG. I had restored a 42" deck for my Raider so the deck was not a real problem. I also had a 1968 Charger 12 that the guy said I had to take when I picked up a 74 C-120 (I wanted the engine for a spare) Now I had a "donor" for the 1970Charger In the process of taking the 70 Charger down to the frame I found that a mouse had made a nest on the box for the motion lever and associated parts. I found nuts, a fair amount of bedding material and what was left of the mouse. As I started to put everything back together I needed a part from the 68. When I took the cover off - this is what I found. This guy worked REALLY hard building a nice warm place to spend the winter My Charger project despite a setback or two is coming along.....one piece at a time

70 incher then Red and Kevlar. I'll have to verify the WH number on mine and cross it to a length to see what size I am running. I would guess your pulleys are well worn in and burnished?? Looks like a 70 fits the IPL ...#81 I was going to mention that Dick but I want to make sure @wheelhorseman continues to make an honest living!

Weird but i think the fluid drain back / burping may have been it. Driveway is at a slant and rear was lower.. I lifted seat to pull dipstick only to see fluid near top so It seems like it was spilling out from there. I started it, raised deck, drove it over to other driveway, parked sidways and re-checked dipstick.. Now the oil is not visible inside the tube. Thanks a lot brothers!

The transmission oil fill (dipstick) tube is loose, it is threaded into case. Remove rear fender pan and put thread tape on oil fill tube.

Here's my rules for using Loctite - If you can use heat to break the bond and remove the fastener - use red If you can only use light heat to break the bond and remove the fastener - use blue If you can use no heat - use anti-seize . Sarge

Is there a need to fabricate these mufflers , or at least some sort of a market ? I may be open to a winter project if I can get caught up... Sarge

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Not aimed at any particular member, just a general statement on the topic of shift on the fly. How you spend you next $ 100 bill is up to you.

Looks like 'Nut is "geared" up for a little at RedRanger.........

Here’s what I found in the manual for my 701. It just says to make sure to use the clutch while moving and shifting.

sounds like fun... Now I gotta go see if I can get my 702 to do wheelies! Trade ya belts?? ...not up a hill heavens no...lets get the right tombstone!

It pops the front a foot off the ground just doing that. Heaven help you if you're pointed up hill at the time! Got to be the belt. Time for a tombstone.

Be VERY careful WHO you ask to sit on the front of the tractor....

You would become very popular with RJ and Suburban owners as well as lots of other brands from the '50s.

My 702 is almost identical to yours Red with 6/12 duals and I don't have problems unless I try to get stupid with it. My belt seems to have a good deal of slip tho and I'm thinking the belt is wearing and/or the clutch idler spring is too weak or some linkage adjustment is required as once in awhile it will throw the belt off the idler. I might try a size smaller belt too. Which leads me to my next question what brand/size of belt are you running? I have noticed the blue Huskys from TSC seem to really be grabby and all the tractors I have them on seem to be a little light in the front on takeoff! The one on my 702 is a WH belt 9291 I think but not sure on that number! Like I said it will climb stall walls when I get stupid!

Hey! That's my hand!

I didn't really get a chance to run my 854 with duals. I put the duals on another tractor that was a long frame and a diesel so had weight to keep the front down. Might need to adjust belt tension, shouldn't do that

You could retire...selling these things. Especially, once you list them on Ebay.

Yes both red go together. They have joined them at the ignition switch for convenience. If you look at the wiring diagram they show them joined just before the switch and after the fuse. Same thing. When wires cross each other in the illustrations they pass each other. When you see a black dot it means they are joined. Garry

Thanks I am self taught machinist. Books , You Tube and the Web are my sources. Picked up my South Bend 10K Lathe off Craigslist maybe 6 years ago. $300 bucks from a local Retired Locksmith. Trust me , i had had quite a few of those **** moments while using it. The new pulley is made from C1018 5 inch round Steel.

The 312 414 diagram Bob posted shows battery ignition which will not be correct with the ground wires on the side of the switch indicating you have magneto ignition. This one may be a closer guess. The tractor identification decal was most often on the rear fender pan below the left side of the seat. Just click on the photos below to get to the index pages. You can download the files from there. The 78346 model number you posted is for the mower deck. Garry

Mine are all gone as well. I have 2 good used ones and a new one but none are installed. When I disengage the PTO when running a deck or snow blower, they stop very quickly anyways.

Start a thread in other brands Jeff and I'm sure the fellas will be along to help out. Be ready to have model nos & pics of what you might be working on. Good luck.

That's why I wasn't sure which way to go. I don't like anything seized. Change of plans. No Loctite...apply anti-seize. Get it adjusted and locked, then add grease or anti-seize to the exterior threads to protect. Check periodically to confirm everything is the way it should be. I'm a snowmobiler, and that's how I put my sled suspension together. No Loctite, ant seize and check after every ride. Hasn't failed me in 30 years.

I'm not sure that I would use LocTite for this procedure. Those set screws are hardened and are a bear to get out if they are stuck. They are also very hard to drill out. Usually, when they break, if something is sticking out, you can turn them with your fingers. That will not happen with Loctite, and you will have to drop your trans to take care of the issue.

I've got to ask....on my 702, I'm running duals 6-12 ags. Taking off from a standstill in 3rd is nearly impossible. You have to ride/slip the clutch a lot and keep the throttle nearly at idle. No matter how soft you let off the clutch, the front wants to climb in the air. I generally have to take off in 2nd at low throttle and shift to 3rd on the fly to get moving and then throttle up. I'm running a K181 up front as well as front Wheel Horse wheel weights. Without the weights, it was deadly. Taking off in 2nd is ok, but will still pull the front off the ground if not careful, even with the front weights. Taking off in 1st is no issue. Do any of you running duals have this same issue? It's annoying as hell. I've got no other tractor that does this. Honestly, if I were to take off in 3rd at high throttle from a stop, it would flip over backwards. (which it did when I first bought it) Do you have to slip your clutch to get moving? Do your rear tires hook in the sod like a gear on a chain? Do you have to take off at idle and throttle up once moving? Is any gear over 1st deadly? This little stallion is a hand full!

I have this same issue with my K282 on an automatic 10 with a bored out engine. That thing will dump you hard and my buddies have all found that out on their own by not listening. I am the only one that hasn't been thrown from it. Is that machine a standard?

Bahh... no guilt... Just idle waayy down and start in 3rd.

I do have to do that as well... I remembered part of my problem at the time.... rusty pulleys.

got green with sickness cause he couldn't handle his liquor!

And here to think us swabbies always just thought the jarheads were green with sea sickness .... I remember we invited this Marine to a party once and he ...never mind don't want to steal Red's thread! Good idea on saving the belt sleeve and write on it what tractor it's on

I'd have to look at the brand. I forget what it was. I know it's blue or green and I believe it was Kevlar. On-line purchase from a belt wholesaler. It was cross referenced to the OEM WH number. Maybe my belt is just too grippy? Weird thing is it did the same when I bought it and it had a worn out 40 year old rubber belt that was super loose. I thought maybe it was just too much traction. EDIT Just found this.... This is the belt.

Thank you everyone. It was a simple thing and what I believed in the end but as it was my first go at this I am glad I consulted you all. Now to get started on the loose choke cable and throttle! While you are all here, does anywhere know where you can get decal designs to replace old ones that faded etc. Even if you can get pdfs of them etc.

I run the 5 ribs. I don't like the look of the tri rib firestones with the center rib that is higher. I do have deestone tri ribs on my pullers

In regards to me I believe most folks would say the correct word is phycho

to the I am not familiar with a 46" deck. Could it be 42" or 48"? Pictures of the hardware needed would help.

Hey Didn't @Racinbob live in Deltona?!?!? ...No wonder he is so psychic about !

Thanks to Boomer, I am all set

Tri-ribs were originally designed for farm field use in dirt. The center rib or ridge was there to provide bite when turning sharp when coming to the end of the field to be able flip around and head back the other direction. They provided bite so the tractor had less tendency to slide or skip. That’s the reason they are tough on turf. If you turn hard and fast like in a field, the rib will dig in and can cut like a knife peeling up turf. Now on a small garden tractor maybe not as bad. With th the advent over the years in large field implements the need to be able to turn sharp in a field had drop dramatically. That’s why your seeing larger wider tires on two drive farm tractors. Plus the wider tires offer less soil compaction, and that’s a good thing. Out in the garden I have yet to need tri-ribs on any of my garden tractors. I did put the V61’s 6 ply on my loader tractor. Made all the difference in the world. So I guess it’s up to you. Both are nice tires.

You might want to be a little more specific when trying to describe your problems. First post should have said something like the engine starts most of the time and when it doesn't start right up it will if I jump the solenoid. This would have hastened up the advice and type of advice given to solve your problem. Just a thought. Soldering components on a circuit boar is childs play. First, use a iron/pencil type soldering iron less than 40 watts to limit damage to circuit boards. Sometimes its easier to snip the component leads next to the component and this allows you to use a pair of needle nose plyers to remove the lead once you have the solder heated up. The best method is to use a desoldering station to heat the solder and remove it completely with the use of a vacuum pump.

That's a dandy Adams...... anything that comes from Scott's is top notch!

Back to the front axle, need to get a mount done before starting the chassis. a small piece of ply made the template and gave me a centre point for the pivot. Two pieces of steel tube were repurposed for the mount. a quick zap with the welder - that 1" hole was a pain to drill and how the cradle sites with a cat 3 pin for the pivot.

Check out heywheel.com

Thanks Jim for the offer. Fastenal is just a walk across the parking lot from my office. That's fast and easy. Now some of those more difficult parts I might be looking for in the future I might need to ask for some assistance from my Wheel Horse friends south of the border. Thanks for the tip about the blue loctite. I was thinking I should use some. The threads in the trans were perfectly clean. The set screw was actually broken off on the external side. Nut and part of the set screw missing. I was able to just wind remaining piece out with my fingers. How did you know I was power shifting? I guess mentioning using the dozer blade gave it away...forward, reverse, forward, reverse...and continue to repeat a few dozen more times....

I have thought about this twin for a 520 diesel conversion , before all the nay sayers, a Briggs or Honda replacement would be about the same price, and this engine has an 1 1/8" shaft and probably won't ever run out of torque, Jeff.

That Wisconsin should provide plenty of nose weight. I think you probably need to add a piece of angle iron under the bottom of the drive belt to allow the clutch to work better.