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The state (PENDOT) is milling and repaving rt 74 so I managed to get 20 ton if the millings to repair the washed out road. So I took the deck off and put the dozer blade on to spread and roll the millings. Got about 6 hours of seat time yesterday.

Not sure how many members are from there but will be thinking of all you people out in Texas and Louisiana. Hurricanes are no fun but 20-30" of rain is even worse. Hope all of you stay safe and be careful out there. Praying for your safety!

With the help of the folks on Red Square I got my 68 Raider 12 running again. But I never figured that the guys would send a QA Inspector to evaluate my work

I think I can solve the problem Jay. 1. mow for 29 minutes 2. take a 30 minute break and have a cold beverage 3. repeat steps 1. & 2. till mowing is finished.

Considering that that is a juvenile praying mantis, maybe he's not inspecting the Raider, but praying that you finally get the K91 running on the Suburban.

Now I finally know why I prefer the Ks over the Ms. Who would want an engine with a DOO HINGUS hanging on it?

You can buy a cheap inline spark tester at Napa. It looks like a test light with a terminal the spark plug cable hooks to and a short spark plug cable on the other end. Carry it with you and when it quits plug it in and check the spark. It there's no spark replace the magnum spark making doo hingus. If there's spark, replace the fuel pump.

So, we are looking for a Guardian Angel. Had one of those in High School. That one is probably a run away...the Parents eat their young. You will probably see a picture of this guy on a carton of Soy Milk in the near future.

Driving to Athens Ohio tomorrow (3.5hrs) to pick up my new trailer to haul the tractors around on. My little 5'×10' Carry On is just too small and flexes too much. Picking up a new Diamond C, 7'×14' tandem axle utility trailer. Painted a nice bright red! Has black rims, so guess I will have to paint them the same as the tractor rims. Little more than I wanted to spend, but the extra $500 gets me a much sturdier trailer than getting another Carry On brand tandem, plus I get a bunch of adds on including the bifold gate and a PPG automotive paint finish.

Just wondering, Some of you know i have a 516H, whats different about the 518 other then 2hp diff ? Is it the same Hydro unit ? Bigger tires, just curious, had a call today from a Man who wants to unload a 518H, was his Dad's but he passed away, i told him i have my money tied up in braces for 2 kids at moment, he said he would hold it LOL, if it wasnt for the braces id have 4 to 5 more by sunday afternoon in my son's stable, here is my Son's 516H again, i know 953 & others like Pics

What's the part # on the DOO Hingus ? I can't find it in the parts manual.

my father in law past away 2 yrs ago was over there today and one of his old buddies stop by and we were trying to start the JD B but seems the mag no good and my mother in law told me that theses tractors are now mine .at the moment i have no where to store them so they will stay there for now the one is a 1937 JD B unstyled and the other is a 1938 JD L unstyled they both been sitting for about 20 yrs. the L will start and run but the B wont. my father in laws buddy wants me to get the B running for this fall a local club here has a plow day this fall and wants me to bring the B and plow. was looking on tractor data .com and this B is only rated at 12 horse at the draw bar hell that is what my wheel horse is but the B probably has a lot more torque to it. he says it will pull a 2 14" bottom plow the one picture is his old butt buggy he made to get around at the shows it is a choremaster i had to get it out and make a couple laps around the house he has a straight pipe no muffler and it is a little loud.

A few photo's from Rural Past Times. Home for the weekend. Not the luxury caravan. The little green tent. My Sears/Roper flexing it's muscles. Friday afternoon. Saturday. Fergie The Wonder Dog. Mini D and man with BRACES. Suspenders has a different meaning over here. Basil and Courtney on guard duty. Chris testing a towing attachment. Poor Bolens couldn't stand the pace. Various Bolens needed attention over the weekend. Sheepherds Hut with all mod cons. Sunday. Man Cave. Thresher. Fergie with reaper/binder. One way to pull a bird. Arena Parade. A very nice Ford. Finally My C-81 and finger bar got second in the horticultural class.

Ok. Waiting for parts but was able to modify the heat shield, fab up a battery tray that is strategically between the Gear reduction steering set up and the newly fabricated fuel tank support. Also got foot pedal set up welded and fitted into place for clutch and brake...the foot pedal took a lot of time as I decided to modify the pedal and married it to the GT14 style pedal. Lots of cutting, welding and grinding. But it will allow me to run the clutch rod in the tunnel.

@stevasaurus @Racinbob I finally had time last weekend and got my 3 piece Suburban tranny assembled last weekend. You could not turn the bare axle or input shaft by hand, but with the input pulley or a axle hub on it it turned nicely but a little snug. Everything was bead blasted and all new bearings and bushings. I had honed the axles bushing to a oiled just slide fit so I though I would run it in with an electric motor. Also thought the run in would help "wear" the gears from 3 different tranny's together. The axles were flipped and holes drilled for the axle gears. I also used the right side plate from an RJ tranny due to the side of the input bearing boss being heavily rusted. so here's it on the test run. IMG_4252[1].MOV Yes that's the tranny making that sound, not the electric motor or wash machine! I didn't expect this tranny to be the quietest. I went ahead and ran it in each gear for about an hour, so about 4 hours run in time. It got a little wardm as expected, but I could easily hold my hand on the case or side-plates in any place I then sampled the oil and saw lots of shinny metal glitter. I drained the oil, and rolled a strong magnet around in the drain pan. I got lots of very very fine metal dust, no shavings. The clumps in the pic or fine but stuck together with oil. the metal wear is almost the size of pencil lead dust. I decided to pull a side cover for a look, and didn't see much but some wearin gin on the large diff gear. As the pictures show, about a lot of the gears have pitted tooth faces, but all of them had fairly good tooth profile. In these gear pictures I've tried to show the worst area of each gear. Below id the diff gear with the new "Wearing-in areas. On all the other gears I saw a few tiny wearing-in spots but very little. If you look at the diff gear above, you can see a faint amount of "polish" wear where it rides with this gear, but really very very minor. Below is the left side plat which came from an RJ transmission. I had filed the inside edges of the axle tube smooth, but there is quite a raised edge on the inside and outside edge of the tube. So the first thought is the axle tubes are some how being pushed against the side of the axle gears inside the differential. i checked the "length" of the 2 inner axle tube and the left (RJ) is 1.540 and the right is 1.490. I then checked the other 2 side plates I have and the both measure around 1.490. Below is the right side plate which is original to this case. The axle tube hase some raised edges, but not as much as the left plate. below I checked and I have about 0.012 ths clearance between the 2 inner diff -axle gears. As I mentioned the axles were flipped and I took the to a friend and drilled them on his mill to get them straight and spaced from the ends just like the holes on the original ends. I measured the depth of the differential (where the axle tube goes in) and the length of each axle tube Diff Depth Axle tube length Right Side: 1450 1.510 Left Side : 1.450 1.495 So this looks like burred axle tubes can ride deep enough to rub on the ends of the axle tubes. The Case is 5,975 wide The Diff is 5.920 wide So there should be about 0.055 clearance (0.0275) per side between the side plates and the ends of the diff. Since I cannot get a measurement of the width of the 2 axle gears inside the case...... The cable guy just came to work on my slow internet speed so more late In the mean time give me your thoughts>>>>????? My thoughts are I'm going to

Thanks gents! I am not very patient but I do tend towards OCD/quality. It's amazing how slow things go when you only have handyman tools for the most part. If I had a cutting torch or plasma cutter and a large band saw, I'd be able to go much quicker. Oh well. They say the journey is as important as the destination.

If the valve clearance is to tight when the engine warms up the valves grow ( get longer) Then you loose your valve clearance and your compression. Wayne

Just for everyone'd info: Seafoam engine treatment in a can and Seafoam in the spray is the SAME STUFF. It will clean out passages in spray form if it gets to it. It will decarbon pistons and fog motors. I sold it for 10 yrs. I have personally stopped a ticking lifter in my old truck by adding to the oil. I have seen it stop a knock in my B-I-L's car. I have stopped my wife's Dodge Caravan from pinging by spraying it down a throttle body and fogging the engine. I add a little to the gas on my 520 and the surging problem at idle is almost completely gone. It works.

I'm hoping I don't lose it Eric. Maybe this recent investment will increase my "squatters rights".

Hope he doesn't get married when he grows up!

Gees Jim, that is one nasty transmission, but it should be OK for riding around and maybe mowing a lawn. For some reason, I can't play those MP-3 videos. That's OK...I now what one of those sounds like when it is tight. If it was me, I would hone the outer axle bushings a little more, you should be able to turn the axle by hand easily...you said you could turn it once the pulley and hubs were on...that means you are close. I also noticed that some of those bearings are maybe not seated to flush with the top of the rings...could be the pictures, pictures have a habit of making things look worse then they are. If any of those bearings are not flush in the race, it will make the trans tight and bind also. One other thing I would do...put about 1/2 qt of Lucas Oil Treatment (it's like STP) in there with the 90wt. You should be OK with that in Texas. Actually, I'd be more worried if that trans did not make any noise. You should hear me with my bad knees...I can't sneak up on anybody on stairs. The Lucas Oil treatment will quiet the trans a little and cushion the gears. One other thing...check the bottom of all those gears (between the teeth), if you see any little specs, file them out. It does not take much in the bottom between those teeth on the gears to make things mesh correctly, and quietly.

Wed. I received my new diff carrier & brake shaft in the mail. These are the upgraded set with finer teeth. Some rust on the parts but they look to be in good shape. After blasting them with glass bead they cleaned up nice. Some pitting but much better than what I had. Hopefully my bearings & bushings will be in today so I can button this back up this weekend.

Nice gift from your MIL. We have 2 Choremasters...1 with a "butt-buggy"

OK, the Eaton passed the pull test spinning both wheels while chained to the tree. She runs strong with no smoke. It's a KEEPER. So I stripped her down for a good washing. I was really surprised at how clean the smooth aluminum heads were compared to the rough cast iron block fins.

The coil is known for that. I had a car that did that and the coil would get hot and cut out. Also the condenser does the same thing.

That's one of the really cool things with this hobby--for those talented enough like you Aldon, you can have fun with the build, revell in the completion of a job well done, and when finished a totally functional, better than new, usable machine! With my affection for Gear Jammers, I'm riveted to this build. How many gallons is the fuel tank that you are installing?

Looking good Aldon. Top notch fab work . Your skill and patience show.

Where do you find all this time looking great!

If he was running ethanol free gas I wouldn't think it was the problem, but he isn't!

That is definitely for the vacuum listed above. The belt runs on the outer PTO pulley. Just one more genius Wheel Horse design.

I'm not cheap.

Volt meters are hooked parallel in any circuit, amp meters are hooked in series, in case anyone is not familiar with these circuit types.

Perfect Dan...a sight for sore eyes. That is about as good as you will find out there.

So good to see you all. It was HOT and we had a 5-minute power storm on Friday, but we survived. Ed came for the day on Friday. Buckrancher and Mrs. B and I set up together. ericj was up with some loyal Wheel Horse folks at the gate area. Taking a cruise Wheel Horses were represented at the pulling track. The "open class" had some crazy and LOUD stuff Enjoying the show . . . A new recruit! Yes, you can still buy a Confederate flag if you like . . . history is history . . . get over it already The End . . . time to go home . . . . My setup My luxury accommodations in the cargo trailer. Buckrancher winning the "Best Display" award I believe

heres my lazy solution - not broken a hub yet, but had to change bottle jack to a 6 ton one

Here's a few photos i took at the show.

Yep.... still chugging away every day, hauling cow poop and leveling off pathways. The HF engine surprisingly has never yet given us any grief. I might put one on this 953. There are some places that 856 just won't go, I'm hoping this 953 with some chains will. It'll have a long useful life again.

It's a B series tank. I'm guessing 2-2.5 gallons. Not certain though. I have a B100 with a 14hp 321 on it. I can mow for around 3-3.5 hours between refill. So I believe the tank should b sufficient.

Good catch there 953.. I made the mistaken assumption that everyone here knew NOT to run gas with ethanol in ANY small engine. Definitely part of the problem. I will gladly pay the .50 a gal extra to not purchase gas with ethanol in it. I am. I belong to the gun of the month club. I have wheel weight lead to buy and reloading components to purchase. I have to cut corners somehow. to feed my shooting obsession.

Try this free player Steve http://www.videolan.org/vlc/ That is pretty loud Jim. Is that chattering I hear? It was hard to tell with it being only 3 seconds long. Hopefully Steve can listen so we can get his 2¢ worth.

The hammer method? Well, I sat here and just couldnt think of a way to write a description, so I went to you tube and found this --- I would add to the method that I will do bolt holes the first thing and put a bolt in each one, the head of the bolt pressing down on the paper really helps in keeping every thing in place. I also like to use a really small ball peen hammer (I call it my gasket hammer) being small helps when you have small bolt holes or a tight corner to cut. Of course I have a exacto knife and small scissors handy to also give an assist sometimes.

Hi Pullstart, yep it should be safe to rev the engine up to 9650 rpm.. Cool indeed Don't worry, the fins will get a good combing Wow was it really January I last worked on MadTrax!! I have been a bit distracted by an RJ, a Burban, a lathe bench etc but I am back on MadTrax's case now In order to keep this in some kind of order, we had best start with a video with a rather silly start As hinted at the end of the video some "slight" changes were about to happen.. It was this photo that started the ball (or should it be quad) rolling The wheels came from the remain of a Quadziller quad that Nigel had stored away in a vast amount of brambles There was no way the bigger wheels would bolt onto the original front hubs and rear axle as the PCD's are nowhere near the same.. Making adaptors for the front wheels wouldn't be too bad of a job, but the rears would need at least an 8 inch wide adaptor plate each side which would do the axles bearings any good! Also the original rear axles internal brake wasn't working at all!! Sooooooooo... My brain started chewing an idea over.... Then out came the tape measure to check on the idea... Anyway... Quite a few months ago when MadTrax was being stripped down for paint I found that I couldn't get the exhaust off the engine! Something had closed up during welding and made the very small clearance there was too small to clear anything.. So, the only option was to put an extra flange in the system.. Almost finished here, just need the welding finished when it's unbolted. And on to todays main attraction Never being one to take the easy option and also having a history of making drastic changes when I'm most of the way through a build, I thought the best way to bolt the new wheels on is if I use the matching hubs..... And suspension.... And brakes....... And steering With a couple of bars cut out under the seat the Quadziller rear end could be rolled in place. The heavy duty sump guard came in handy, nice and flat for balancing on a widened wheel rim that was just the right height. With the front end stripped off, there was only one thing to do.. Slice off her nose To fit this, Quadzillers front end A little trimming later and both ends are near enough in the right places. Lot's of measuring later the front and middle sections lined up and were held together with some tempoary bracing. The first two new tube to on were the rear end, I just had to give her a slightly cheeky curvy rear No problems getting the exhaust back on, the battery box will be cut out as MadTrax has one already. Working out how to make the top shock mounts was interesting, but worth it as they look good. It's a shame that I ran out of welding gas as I was tack welding them on! I will put a bracing tube between the shock mounts. And that's where the build is up to for now... More to happen when I get more gas..... (No fart jokes please)

The guy digging is Stormin Norman with the Blackhorse

I used Duro and shoe-horned 10.5" 4ply HF255 TLs onto 7" wide rims (tubeless). Reduces outer diameter slightly, but no issues with clearance on a 74 C-120- As you're in the UK, here is an example retailer of this Brand (other available) and gives you an idea of the costs. TYRES

In the states we have a product called Seafoam that works well for cleaning crud out of fuel systems and keeping them operating properly. Hope you can find it or a similar product.

Here Ya go Eric.

Remove the set screw(s) and look in at the key. If the groove inside the hub wore so that the key is no longer in line with the keyway, you will not be able to pull it off. If you can rotate it with a hammer, that may be the problem, so then tap it to align it and try pulling again.

You could pull the pulley off and run it with a 1/2" drill. The lift lever should spring return to center, but lots of them have broken springs, no big deal. There is a plug on the pump near your gear shift lever, the pump should be filled to the plug. If the oil in it is amber use motor oil, if red use ATF.

Outstanding!!!! I have never messed with a hydro pump yet and have a couple to work on!! No I'm not so worried!!!!!! I vote to moved this to the most useful post area or have it pinned!!! Thanks Hodge71 (Jeff). :handgestures-thumbupright: