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From another site, CCI -- this video and several following are small RC tractors doing work:

Go with it, just keep a little grease on the axle to keep corrosion at bay.

HOWWAAAARRRRRD!!!!!! I'll cut you a better deal! How about 4 of them (enough for BOTH front wheels, in a zip lock baggie for only $19.99!!! But wait! There's more!!! I'll deliver to you at the Big Show!! (limited time only...must call in the next 5 minutes).

Just some pictures of the lawn and garden extravaganza this weekend. Me and the kids went and just got home.. enjoy!

HHHOOWWWAAARRRDDD!!! I will buy a pair of cheapies at $ 2.99 ea. Seal them up in one those vacuum baggie things my wife uses for veggies and sell them to you for $32.50 !

I'd say go for it. I use sealed bearings on my non-workers and last summer I put them on one of my workers to see how they would last. So far so good.

I just finished research aluminum trailers. I like the Aluma brand because they have a heavy duty model that will carry more weight (4 tractors). I was going to get 72" wide deck, until I realized that some WHs are 37 to 38" wide (WITHOUT WHEEL WEIGHTS). If I want to carry 2 WHs side by side, it's going to be tight. So I started to look at 78" wide beds x 123" long with the side rails just like shown in your pictures. So it depends on how much you want to haul. I haven't decided to buy yet because of the $3000 price tag, and a tight budget right now. After talking to other owners of Aluminum trailers, I think it's the way to go. An older gentleman told me he can move his trailer more easily by hand. The Al. trailers tend to be about 300 lbs. lighter than a comparable size steel trailer. That leaves capacity for another Wheel Horse. Good trailers, and more expensive than steel, but will last longer. Jim

I do not remember how long I have been making the Dash decals but have always wanted to make them easier to line up and get a better installation. The problem spot is the dreaded rib in the center of the dash plate. It is difficult to get the thick decal to stay down in the grooves below and above the rib. 3m makes an adhesive primer called primer 94 available on line in pens or 8 oz. cans like the one pictured below. I bought a pen from a vinyl supplier but the 8 oz. can is actually less expensive and you can use a small artists brush to lay a thin coat in the grooves of the metal plate before applying your decal. Make sure you seal the can up immediately after use so it will be ready for your next project. 3m primer 94 can be applied to a painted surface. This will bond with the adhesive on the back of the decal and will make the decal stay down in the grooves much better and quicker. I made the decals a little larger than the plates to allow for a razor trim of the edges for a clean edge and easier alignment but it is still difficult to get the decal in place so the lettering is straight. I have changed the design of the decals contour cut so the bottom of the decal and the left bottom edge can be positioned exactly with the edge of the dash plate. There will still be a small over hang on the top left, top edge and right side of the dash plate to trim after application and of course use a new sharp exacto blade (#11) to trim out the ignition, lighter, bolt and choke holes before reinstalling your dash. Here are a couple pics with more to follow trying to illustrate. I am no writer so pictures may help me better explain my process. That is all I have for now but I will post more images of the process soon. As you can see my dash plate is not super smooth and could use some attention and a paint job but it will work fine for this post

If it's a tractor that I use, I put sealed bearing on it, not the cheapest ones, but not the most expensive either. I still pack a little bearing grease in them before installing them. Less maintenance, and less mess. Got a 25 year old JD GT, between the PO and me over 900hr on original front bearings. Last year pulled the front wheels to put new tires on, bearings look good with no play, axles looked good also. I think the dust caps help a lot. i

We sure aren't talkin any high speed action. And your right, the grease makes a mess. Keep your eyes on them and if one starts squeaking grease it or just pop it out and replace it. you can find them just about anywhere.

I have been changing front bearings to sealed bearings on my tractors since the greasing of them always creates a mess, takes lots of grease and Grand kids are always getting grease on their legs. With these bearings I see no reason for grease. I am wondering what are others opinion on this?

You know, the idea behind sealed bearings is the fact they are "pre-greased" and the seals keep out the dirt. Granted, if you are in a lot of dirt/mud you may need to check/repair/replace those sealed bearings.

On sale for $9.85 with free shipping, 11 left. Just ordered a set.

Applying adhesive primer using the too expensive but convenient tool from image one impact .com In this example I chose to use an imperfect piece of wrap vinyl because i am trying not to waste as much vinyl this year. LOL This will work with the brushed chrome thicker decals also. Line up the left edge and bottom of the decal with the left edge and bottom of your plate. Use a plastic squeegie to press the graphic into the bottom groove and use your thumb to rub the vinyl down over the rib then squeegie again down into the top groove and then finish appling the top portion which should lay down nicely using a back and forth motion with only your thumb to prevent scratching the laminate. The Brushed Chrome decals are thick and imperfections in the plate will not show through as easily as with the wrap vinyl. But of course the better you prep ypur dash plate the better the install. When finished with the install just turn it over and trim off the excess vinyl. Now you of course need to trim out all the holes and your ready to reinstall your dash. Use care when tightening your dash bolts to prevent twisting the decal. thin rubber or felt washers can help here. Just snug and the washers will stop the dash from rattling. HOPE THIS HELPS Time to head to the lake for supper now and a little bass fishing before dark. Back home in the morning to start working on more fun stuff for the show.

UPDATE... Just finished K91T #2 The rattling noise you may hear is coming from the WorkMate, not the engine, Here are both refreshed K91T's that I am bringing to the big show.

BINGO You were spot on with your post and thanks that saves me a lot of . The rebuilder installed that inner plate backwards. He had the gaskets well permatexed in. So I wound up having to make a run and get some gasket material and make my own gaskets. Cause believe it or not they don't stock them at Napa Ran the engine for a while, and no oil coming from behind the throttle disc now I think I have all the bugs worked out now, or at least I hope so. I bought the engine on ebay for a couple hundred from a guy who rebuilt it for someone else that never came to pick it up when he was done with it. All he wanted for the engine was what he had into it for parts. I think I made out pretty good, time will tell. I hope to have a good running 854 for many years to come. Thanks again, Robert and Bob!

If I was a high roller like you Sparks I'd already have one. In all seriousness (if that's even possible) I was going to save up and buy one just like you pictured. But between not needing a trailer no more than 4 times a year and and a good deal on a steel one that popped up on CL, I got a 6 X 10 for $900.

I was looking at them last year and for a little more I would get a bi fold gate.

14.1 is perfect for a running tractor. I have seen perfectly good batteries suddenly die within hours or a few days. I would make sure there isn't a parasitic draw on the battery. Grass clippings across a fuse is one way it can happen. To me it sounds like a plate in your old battery broke and shorted. Make sure your battery hold down is good.

I saw those doors in the background and at first I thought you were painting in your living room!!

Found it!

I'm in the market for a new trailer and my plan is to go all aluminum. I'm leaning towards the 6x12 version of the one in the pics. Anyone here have this brand? Pro's..cons?? How well do the aluminum floors hold up? Thanks for any input you can offer. Mike....

manual area is maintained by @gwest_ca who does an amazing job, and we don't thank him enough!

Garry

Well I didn't take a picture because I took a video of your horses lol. And I stood there for a minute but you were not around and only other time I was there I was trying to win a few things at silent auction. Only got the Hahn tiller tho... got it for my wife's birthday gift lol

Thanks Terry for your great products and knowledge!

I like the sealed bearing swap out. Glenn

Just an example. http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Sealed-Wheel-Bearings-Toro-Wheel-Horse-Garden-Lawn-Tractor-110513-25-1210-/271993019474?hash=item3f540c1c52:g:6aMAAOSwJ7RYW-wb

One other thought. Is you ignition switch working properly? The M terminal should read open during start and run but grounded when the switch is off

If you go with an aluminum deck be sure to put down some anti-slip tape, they get slicker than snot with the slightest amount of moisture.

Good point! My current trailer is 6'6" wide, So much to consider. Mine....

I have a set of Lowells tie rods. They are high quality

Getting me some HD ones!

Where's the farmer in you? Get some bailing wire wrap it up and Git er Done!

Since no one has bought the 310-8 yet, I've decided to put it to work. I fixed the 36" SD deck with new blades, belts, idler pulley, and got the tractor running very nicely. I have to say that I am actually enjoying the 310 with the 36" SD deck. While mowing today, all of a sudden the left wheel decided to make a sharp left turn all by itself. The tie-rod popped off on the inside. That's never happened, so I popped it back in only for it to come out again. So time to talk to Lowell @wheelhorseman1000, he has some quality reproductions on his site WheelHorseMan1000.com

Miller tire is a good supplier of just about any tire you could need for a horse.

Cas, did you have the sealed bearings on this one??? Jim

HHHOOWWWAAARRRDDD!!! I will buy a pair of cheapies at $ 2.99 ea. Seal them up in one those vacuum baggie things my wife uses for veggies and sell them to you for $32.50 ! HOWWAAAARRRRRD!!!!!! I'll cut you a better deal! How about 4 of them (enough for BOTH front wheels, in a zip lock baggie for only $19.99!!! But wait! There's more!!! I'll deliver to you at the Big Show!! (limited time only...must call in the next 5 minutes). The Free Market Entrepreneurs

I just took the last few hours to get this done but i wanted to share what it looks like now that i re-did everything.... Before... What i pulled out... after...!!!! I got it to turn over! I got the lights working and i got power to the pto switch!! The pto bearing is blown out (thats why theres no fuse in it. I was going to use the inline glass fuse but i dont like the considerinng there fragile. I went to a car show yesterday and a guy had these inline fuse holders for $2 a piece and i bought the solenoid from advanced auto for $10+tax. i mounted the solenoid behind the dash in a place where you wont be able to see it so unless you pull the tank you wont set it anyway. Thanks everyone for the help. I have another problem where i dont get spark to the plug. But i have friends that can help with that part. Im so happy with the outcome of the job. I hope everyone is happy with my work. I may have to modify a few things but at least the stuff work!

The little wire terminal that connects to the solenoid is pretty crappy. That's a good place to check and clean. The opposite end of that wire at the relay is another corrosion magnet and was the cause of the same problem I had on my 520

Thanks- I'm going to test them- back in the Day I remember on the Ford breakerless system- it meant something when you got a spark as you turned key off-I am getting that- it meant either the unit was good, and the trigger was bad-or something- have to look it up- thanks for your info- I will keep you posted on parts- Al

With any electrical problem the first step is to clean inspect and tighten ALL electrical connections including grounds. If the problem persists have the battery load tested.

These diagrams will have one for the starter circuit One of these should have you covered. Garry

You can test the coil and trigger before you go to a battery system. if you do change i would be interested on buying your breakerless parts...

That is one nice machine. Wish I had a way to haul it from the Big Show , would make a detour to its location.I can see "the Look " from the wife now and she is not even in the room. Tractor Porn has taken over.

I have double and single Hydro pulleys, on smooth bore the other splined or whatever it's called. A pic of NOS tires on set of rims. (I have a forum member interested in tires and rims who gets first chance to purchase but if interested let me know and once I confirm, I'll let whoever is second in line know if they are available etc., some GT14 Hubs, spindles and misc, also have C series hub sets, 1 each for 1/18 and 1 inch bore, GT14 main front axles, pretty most a large part of GT14 minus frame and Hydro pumps. I do have some Hydro transaxle misc parts from when I split a couple for the rear axles. Also remembered I have this hydro pump I'd let go of for 90. And a set of GT14 rims that were blasted, primed and painted last year but need a refresh on the paint. I believe I have a set or two of tie rods which will need new ball joints... As mentioned, pm me if you need something. I have no plan to bring stuff in hopes that it sells. If I don't pre-sell, it is not coming with me.

Or take it off and put the ball back in the socket on a bench and peen the edges of the socket so the ball won't pop out. I usually stick a dab of grease in the socket as well. Of course a brand new one will last much longer! Mike....

This is my first time plowing and tilling. 1991 520h has almost 2400hr on it. Garden is 30ft x 44ft. I know it's late but we plan on getting good sized plants to start off. I hit some gravel, layer of plastic and even some paver stone of some sort so I'm guessing this section that I hit them (toward the fence on the left at the end of the rows) was used for something in the past. I had top go back to the starting point of plowing and plow that up as I didn't drop the plow in the same spot the first few rows... Plow... Tiller...

I decided to bring home the infrared camera tonight and check out CEE245's findings I did a quick therma scan with pre set settings tonight after mowing. Approx one acre with 520H and 60" deck. Take a look at the attached file Wheel Horse Temps.pdf Disregard the time and date stamp we take the batteries out of the camera and I didn't take the time to reset it. The actual date is today around 7:00 PM EST

I'm bringing a good selection of items that are on my store including the new removable receiver hitches and headlight bezels and some stuff that is not listed yet like ------- Reproduction dual wheel spacers for 6 x 12 rims with new bolts Drag links and tie rod for 953/1054 Sickle mower parts -lift link,travel hook and bracket and skid shoe.