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I may have found a much better alternative to any of the other spray can paints that everyone has been using. I had used it years ago, but forgot about it because I had only used black, white, and silver. While I was at my friends shop sandblasting this morning, I asked him if their spray paint came in bright red. He pulled out the color charts, and they make a myriad of shades of red. I brought home a can of gloss red to try, and while I have not used it yet, there were some tiny splatters on a can that looks to be very close. It is called IPC, Industrial Protective Coatings, manufactured by Applied Maintenance Supplies and Solutions in Cleveland Ohio. This stuff is extremely tough, they use it on propellers that they repair, boat stands, hoists etc., that they manufacture. It is also mirror glossy when applied. Will report back on how well it does.

Since no one has bought the 310-8 yet, I've decided to put it to work. I fixed the 36" SD deck with new blades, belts, idler pulley, and got the tractor running very nicely. I have to say that I am actually enjoying the 310 with the 36" SD deck. While mowing today, all of a sudden the left wheel decided to make a sharp left turn all by itself. The tie-rod popped off on the inside. That's never happened, so I popped it back in only for it to come out again. So time to talk to Lowell @wheelhorseman1000, he has some quality reproductions on his site WheelHorseMan1000.com

Where's the farmer in you? Get some bailing wire wrap it up and Git er Done!

If some would remember, I picked up 5 Wheel Horses from Steve @wh500special, about 3 weeks ago now. A GT-14, a Charger V8, a Lawn Ranger and two 953s. Below is the load. I'm glad to say that one of the 953 is now a running tractor. The one with the plywood back seat, pepper pot muffler runs. It also will start and run, and I also drove it around, and all the gears work. I don't think the hydraulic lift is working, but I think the belt is just hanging there. I will investigate that more later. There is also a short video of it running. The oil spill underneath the left foot rest is from the oil bath cleaner. IMG_1058.MOV

Or take it off and put the ball back in the socket on a bench and peen the edges of the socket so the ball won't pop out. I usually stick a dab of grease in the socket as well. Of course a brand new one will last much longer! Mike....

I have found that when oil comes from places that it's not supposed to come from, it's a problem with the crankcase breather. Check to make sure that the breather was assembled and installed properly.

I used the chrome plated drain pipe. Just cut it off at the elbow. I haven't had no issues and it was on one tractor for a year and got transfered to another for about 6 months now. But the stainless bath rails work even better I was told and also theres a guy in the classifieds who sells chrome tipped muffler stacks. Also depending on how big you make your stack and especially be aware of the weight. Cause a stack has been known to Crack a block if it's not braced up. So my advice definitely brace your stack with a good support.

I love this little C-101! Changed the seat over and installed the blade and played with it a little yesterday. Looking for a rock shaft for it though so I can play with the tiller.

I decided to bring home the infrared camera tonight and check out CEE245's findings I did a quick therma scan with pre set settings tonight after mowing. Approx one acre with 520H and 60" deck. Take a look at the attached file Wheel Horse Temps.pdf Disregard the time and date stamp we take the batteries out of the camera and I didn't take the time to reset it. The actual date is today around 7:00 PM EST

Thank you A to Z, for the great service, quality used parts, and quick shipping. We ordered a 3-speed trans complete. It was nicely crated, arrived FedEx so we didn't have to meet a truck, and it worked great. A+ HuntzNSam

This one was real easy to get started. It was missing the 2-prong key, so I bought a couple from ebay which arrived maybe Thursday. Put the key in, removed the oil bath cleaner, put a jump box on the battery, sprayed some starter fluid into the carb and it hit. So i put some gas in it, and chazaam, it runs on it's own. Put it into gear and drove around the yard a couple of times, shifting into each gear. It might need a new drive belt, but it actually runs pretty good for not running for years. It did smoke a lot when it first started, but it seems to be getting better the more it runs.

one of mine had been sitting in a ditch for years before @Ed Kennell rescued it and sold it to me. Only took a few minutes work to get it running. Those 953s just won't give up!

That's my understanding of the RJ pulley as well. I have a NOS one back in Alabama and recall a bearing co. name and number on the inner race.

the .020 point gap is just a reference static timing is the correct method also point push rod length does not mean anything ( does not matter if the push rod is worn .050 it will only push what the camshaft lobe height is ground at) Normally what happens is the camshaft wears and this shortens the stoke for the point rod so you end up with a smaller point gap like .018 . sounds to me that the engine has been apart before or assembled at the factory with the timing marks off one tooth or ether the crankshaft or camshaft were incorrectly orientated when they were machined originally With that being said how you are getting a larger point gap is because you are starting farther down on the shallow side of the camshaft points lobe when you static time if the timing marks are off . this increases the length of stroke for the points push rod. increasing the point gap Brian

Back in the early 1970's, I was terrible about changing oil in my car. I had a 1967 VW that I would change the oil about every 15,000 miles when 3,000 was recommended. Then came STP with their unheard-of "15,000 miles between changes" advertising. So when I did my "final" oil change, I used STP. I figured that I would never have to do an oil change again for as long as I had the car. Traded it in in 1971 and it was still running strong. I guess that says something about STP. FYI, I have changed. I now use Mobil 1 and change my oil every 7,500 miles as recommended. As far as the horses you might ask? Once a year with straight 30W non-detergent oil in all the slingers, and 10W-30 detergent oil in anything with a pump and filter. Given the choice, I would not hesitate to use STP oil in my Wheel Horses.

X-2 ^

Tractor supply sells them by the pound; as a rule they are less than half what others want.

He'd make you an offer you couldn't refuse!

If it is good enough for the King it is good enough for me!

Getting me some HD ones!

Our bus mechanics use the same brand only in "school bus yellow". Its good touch up for our Hustler mowers to. I to have used it and like it. I have not seen the red variety yet.

the bearings are NLA should be "NICE" bearing company if remember correctly I have had good luck cleaning these in solvent and blowing them out with compressed air then if you have a needle tip for a grease gun you should be able to inject some new grease inside the bearing and save it Brian

I am assuming that the M-series engines, like the K-series, use the S to designate electric start. The carburetor kit for the M12 fits.

Getting there...

Pretty simple stuff to fabricate! Hope this helps! They are a lot of fun to use! If you need sickle teeth for it Jari parts will fit on these.

I'm also in the "it really doesnt matter" camp - since these engines were manufactured some 30-50 years ago oils have changed dramatically. Just think of the recommended oil changes in the new vehicles how they have increased. I do use a straight 30 wt in the slinger engines and multi grade in the pumpers - as mentioned earlier.

Contact @jimkemp he makes some really nice exhaust stacks.

I misunderstood what you posted previously. It sounded to me like you were resetting the point gap.

the bearing and pulley are the same thing if I am remembering correctly the outer race of the bearing is the pulley Brian

at $ 700.00 aint going anywhere fast, wait 2 more weeks and go to the show and see what you might find. I'll be bringing several tractors for sale, and I know a lot of other people will also be there with tractors to sell eric j

Tonight I mounted the SMS425 to my 855. Seems a little noisy, I think in need to make a new pin to connect the wobble box to the sickle knives. Hoping to go and try it out tomorrow.

I have one to add here . I picked up this # # four today on CL for a little more than scrap. It has a surprisingly good set of Town&Countrys and the front wheels which look to be the longer hubs for my Suburban. The former owner found a carpenters solution to mounting a different engine.

Seat is on finally!

Would Andy Granatelli steer you wrong?

Welp... I came, I saw, I purchased. $1250 for the lot. I checked all I could and here's the basic scorecard: The good: - Fires up on the first crank - Runs strong and smoov, no noises, no smoke - Tires in fairly good shape, no dry rot, very solid - No heavy rust, no leaks and no wipes/obvious cleanups - No visible slop or play between engine and hydraulic pump - Pulls an F250 in neutral like it isn't even trying - when said F250 is in park it lights up the tires like race day - Hitch, middeck, lights, PTO all work properly (or as properly as I could figure, never having had a full sized tractor :P) - Accessories seem in good shape - can turn the tiller by cranking the stub w/ my hand and it turns smooth. No heavy rust other than normal - Manuals for everything The bad: - No grille - Front belt is a little sloppy (made much easier to witness thanks to no grille) - Parking brake does not appear to do anything - Did a compression test and got about 70-75ish on each cylinder. However it did not smoke at all and ran so strong that it made me suspect that I might have done the test improperly. I definitely did not have it at WOT which I just read is important, and also read that it may be as easy as exhaust valve adjustment. At any rate I used it as some leverage when negotiating. - There is a shaft where the steering linkage connects which seems to be deflecting, causing some play in the steering wheel (probably the same wear to which Caddy was referring in the above post). Tie rod ends and other linkage works and moves properly w/o play. I suspect (hope) it is a bushing or something of that nature and not a huge deal. - Was more or less a garage find so the risk of missing stuff bits and bobs is higher Hopefully it will work out well and I got a good deal. Thanks again for the help, and I guess you'll see me around a lot more now Thx, Sean

I can not believe the manufacturer of the oil in our machines is really going to matter. Oil being there sure. Regular oil changes maybe although I test that all the time. I do make sure the oil is full.

She's on her own feet now! And now with new meaty shoes!!

It's a little short on horse power.

It's when you start collecting 'em... that you've problems. Imagine this "what's in your mirror" pict.

Just picked up this SMS425 sickle mower. Looks like it may have to do a complete rebuild, not planning on painting it, just mechanical. Looks like a few parts may be missing, but overall I think I can bring it back to life. When I figure out what's missing will put an add in the classifieds.

The weight and vibration need to be compensated for by bracing the stack to the top of the engine or the tractor itself.

so this is the wiring diagram ive decided to go off of. the only thing im going to do to modify it is, off the key acessory have 2 wires come out of it. then they'll go to 2 inline 15amp fuses. 1 will go to the headlight switch the to my head lights and tail lights, the other will go to my electric pto switch. at least if the lights blow i can still cut grass or plow snow or whatever im doing. so i went out bought 2 inline 15 amp fuses and then a 30 amp fuse for the starter solenoid. i still need to go get a 4 post solenoid. in the event that someone or myself is wrong for having a 70 amp key, at least i know that ill blow a fuse to the starter before i burn my key up if we're wrong. i was going to run the lighter off acessory as well then to another fuse but i dont think i want to put it in. i wouldnt need it unless im charging my phone while driving. again ill post up progress pictures along the way. thank you to 953 nut for supplying the diagram and ideas n explanation this is the most simplistic you can get with wiring this.

All issues fixed and operates great. My brother made the bracket and rod to hold the sickle bar in the upright position. Will get a video hopefully tomorrow.

LOL! If it were a fact that they are using STP oil in NASCAR engines, then a lawn mower engine should be fine I would say!

Thanks... that was quick! Ok in absence of links I can post some descriptions (hopefully the names to pics come through) WH1 D200 FEL - asking 3200 for all - "Runs and drives great, tires hold air and have good tread. comes with wheel weights, 3 pt hitch, rear pto, and a mowing deck if i get asking price, deck has a few holes but cuts and works. Has rare turning brakes. Loader is strong, quick, and doesn't need anything. If you don't know what this machine is and want to low ball pass on, no need to get rid of it. I will separate the loader from the tractor and sell tractor separately. Give me 2800 and you get the tractor with no deck, no turning brakes and no rear pto. Again, runs and drives great, starts immeaditly, new carb kit, coil, switch, points, and condensor. Turn Key! everything works. Let me know. I will sell tractor with or without loader, but WILL NOT SELL LOADER WITHOUT TRACTOR. " My note - the only thing I don't like about this one is ags vs turf tires - trying to keep what's good on my lawn in tact lol WH2 D200 - asking 1500 for all - "My Aunt has finally decided to part with my Uncle's 1976 Wheel Horse D-200 Automatic Lawn & Garden Tractor. He purchased it new and it has not been used in many years. It does start, seems to run well and moves back and forth... Kohler 20hp engine. Comes with Owner's manual. Has Rear PTO, 3-point hitch and comes with the 48" mower deck, Transmission cooling fan, 56" Snow/Dozer Blade, and Tiller attachment. Pictures give you a good idea of what is there. Can be seen at my workplace in Berlin CT during business hours. $1500.00" WH3 D180 FEL (the one w/ the cab) - asking 4700 obo - Wheelhorse D180 garden tractor with cab. Heavy duty, beautiful, classic machine, very well cared for and always garaged. Also includes doors for cab that aren't shown. Great show piece or ready to work. Bucket loader, rear PTO, 3 pt hitch, new tires this year, with chains. Thanks again!!!

Anything you can do to increase the air flow across that rear cyl can only help. Those Onans really throw off a lot of heat. That was one reason I designated my 520 a snow machine only. It was too hot to use for mowing. With the belt guard vented and a collector around the rear cyl., the cab stays about 35deg above outside temp. which is perfect for snow chucking.

I "make too much noise" while removing the dishes from the dishwasher; so I'm not allowed to do it anymore! There are lots of other tasks that I have learned annoy my wife; I do them while she is home so she will forbid me from doing them any more! She hasn't caught on yet.

Jim, don't know what you just had for breakfast but I want some! That was goooood!