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I may have found a much better alternative to any of the other spray can paints that everyone has been using. I had used it years ago, but forgot about it because I had only used black, white, and silver. While I was at my friends shop sandblasting this morning, I asked him if their spray paint came in bright red. He pulled out the color charts, and they make a myriad of shades of red. I brought home a can of gloss red to try, and while I have not used it yet, there were some tiny splatters on a can that looks to be very close. It is called IPC, Industrial Protective Coatings, manufactured by Applied Maintenance Supplies and Solutions in Cleveland Ohio. This stuff is extremely tough, they use it on propellers that they repair, boat stands, hoists etc., that they manufacture. It is also mirror glossy when applied. Will report back on how well it does.

Since no one has bought the 310-8 yet, I've decided to put it to work. I fixed the 36" SD deck with new blades, belts, idler pulley, and got the tractor running very nicely. I have to say that I am actually enjoying the 310 with the 36" SD deck. While mowing today, all of a sudden the left wheel decided to make a sharp left turn all by itself. The tie-rod popped off on the inside. That's never happened, so I popped it back in only for it to come out again. So time to talk to Lowell @wheelhorseman1000, he has some quality reproductions on his site WheelHorseMan1000.com

Where's the farmer in you? Get some bailing wire wrap it up and Git er Done!

If some would remember, I picked up 5 Wheel Horses from Steve @wh500special, about 3 weeks ago now. A GT-14, a Charger V8, a Lawn Ranger and two 953s. Below is the load. I'm glad to say that one of the 953 is now a running tractor. The one with the plywood back seat, pepper pot muffler runs. It also will start and run, and I also drove it around, and all the gears work. I don't think the hydraulic lift is working, but I think the belt is just hanging there. I will investigate that more later. There is also a short video of it running. The oil spill underneath the left foot rest is from the oil bath cleaner. IMG_1058.MOV

Or take it off and put the ball back in the socket on a bench and peen the edges of the socket so the ball won't pop out. I usually stick a dab of grease in the socket as well. Of course a brand new one will last much longer! Mike....

I have found that when oil comes from places that it's not supposed to come from, it's a problem with the crankcase breather. Check to make sure that the breather was assembled and installed properly.

I used the chrome plated drain pipe. Just cut it off at the elbow. I haven't had no issues and it was on one tractor for a year and got transfered to another for about 6 months now. But the stainless bath rails work even better I was told and also theres a guy in the classifieds who sells chrome tipped muffler stacks. Also depending on how big you make your stack and especially be aware of the weight. Cause a stack has been known to Crack a block if it's not braced up. So my advice definitely brace your stack with a good support.

I love this little C-101! Changed the seat over and installed the blade and played with it a little yesterday. Looking for a rock shaft for it though so I can play with the tiller.

I decided to bring home the infrared camera tonight and check out CEE245's findings I did a quick therma scan with pre set settings tonight after mowing. Approx one acre with 520H and 60" deck. Take a look at the attached file Wheel Horse Temps.pdf Disregard the time and date stamp we take the batteries out of the camera and I didn't take the time to reset it. The actual date is today around 7:00 PM EST

Thank you A to Z, for the great service, quality used parts, and quick shipping. We ordered a 3-speed trans complete. It was nicely crated, arrived FedEx so we didn't have to meet a truck, and it worked great. A+ HuntzNSam

This one was real easy to get started. It was missing the 2-prong key, so I bought a couple from ebay which arrived maybe Thursday. Put the key in, removed the oil bath cleaner, put a jump box on the battery, sprayed some starter fluid into the carb and it hit. So i put some gas in it, and chazaam, it runs on it's own. Put it into gear and drove around the yard a couple of times, shifting into each gear. It might need a new drive belt, but it actually runs pretty good for not running for years. It did smoke a lot when it first started, but it seems to be getting better the more it runs.

one of mine had been sitting in a ditch for years before @Ed Kennell rescued it and sold it to me. Only took a few minutes work to get it running. Those 953s just won't give up!

That's my understanding of the RJ pulley as well. I have a NOS one back in Alabama and recall a bearing co. name and number on the inner race.

the .020 point gap is just a reference static timing is the correct method also point push rod length does not mean anything ( does not matter if the push rod is worn .050 it will only push what the camshaft lobe height is ground at) Normally what happens is the camshaft wears and this shortens the stoke for the point rod so you end up with a smaller point gap like .018 . sounds to me that the engine has been apart before or assembled at the factory with the timing marks off one tooth or ether the crankshaft or camshaft were incorrectly orientated when they were machined originally With that being said how you are getting a larger point gap is because you are starting farther down on the shallow side of the camshaft points lobe when you static time if the timing marks are off . this increases the length of stroke for the points push rod. increasing the point gap Brian

Back in the early 1970's, I was terrible about changing oil in my car. I had a 1967 VW that I would change the oil about every 15,000 miles when 3,000 was recommended. Then came STP with their unheard-of "15,000 miles between changes" advertising. So when I did my "final" oil change, I used STP. I figured that I would never have to do an oil change again for as long as I had the car. Traded it in in 1971 and it was still running strong. I guess that says something about STP. FYI, I have changed. I now use Mobil 1 and change my oil every 7,500 miles as recommended. As far as the horses you might ask? Once a year with straight 30W non-detergent oil in all the slingers, and 10W-30 detergent oil in anything with a pump and filter. Given the choice, I would not hesitate to use STP oil in my Wheel Horses.

X-2 ^

Tractor supply sells them by the pound; as a rule they are less than half what others want.

He'd make you an offer you couldn't refuse!

If it is good enough for the King it is good enough for me!

Getting me some HD ones!

Our bus mechanics use the same brand only in "school bus yellow". Its good touch up for our Hustler mowers to. I to have used it and like it. I have not seen the red variety yet.

the bearings are NLA should be "NICE" bearing company if remember correctly I have had good luck cleaning these in solvent and blowing them out with compressed air then if you have a needle tip for a grease gun you should be able to inject some new grease inside the bearing and save it Brian

I am assuming that the M-series engines, like the K-series, use the S to designate electric start. The carburetor kit for the M12 fits.

Getting there...

Pretty simple stuff to fabricate! Hope this helps! They are a lot of fun to use! If you need sickle teeth for it Jari parts will fit on these.

I'm also in the "it really doesnt matter" camp - since these engines were manufactured some 30-50 years ago oils have changed dramatically. Just think of the recommended oil changes in the new vehicles how they have increased. I do use a straight 30 wt in the slinger engines and multi grade in the pumpers - as mentioned earlier.

Contact @jimkemp he makes some really nice exhaust stacks.

I misunderstood what you posted previously. It sounded to me like you were resetting the point gap.

the bearing and pulley are the same thing if I am remembering correctly the outer race of the bearing is the pulley Brian

at $ 700.00 aint going anywhere fast, wait 2 more weeks and go to the show and see what you might find. I'll be bringing several tractors for sale, and I know a lot of other people will also be there with tractors to sell eric j

Tonight I mounted the SMS425 to my 855. Seems a little noisy, I think in need to make a new pin to connect the wobble box to the sickle knives. Hoping to go and try it out tomorrow.

I have one to add here . I picked up this # # four today on CL for a little more than scrap. It has a surprisingly good set of Town&Countrys and the front wheels which look to be the longer hubs for my Suburban. The former owner found a carpenters solution to mounting a different engine.

Seat is on finally!

Would Andy Granatelli steer you wrong?

Welp... I came, I saw, I purchased. $1250 for the lot. I checked all I could and here's the basic scorecard: The good: - Fires up on the first crank - Runs strong and smoov, no noises, no smoke - Tires in fairly good shape, no dry rot, very solid - No heavy rust, no leaks and no wipes/obvious cleanups - No visible slop or play between engine and hydraulic pump - Pulls an F250 in neutral like it isn't even trying - when said F250 is in park it lights up the tires like race day - Hitch, middeck, lights, PTO all work properly (or as properly as I could figure, never having had a full sized tractor :P) - Accessories seem in good shape - can turn the tiller by cranking the stub w/ my hand and it turns smooth. No heavy rust other than normal - Manuals for everything The bad: - No grille - Front belt is a little sloppy (made much easier to witness thanks to no grille) - Parking brake does not appear to do anything - Did a compression test and got about 70-75ish on each cylinder. However it did not smoke at all and ran so strong that it made me suspect that I might have done the test improperly. I definitely did not have it at WOT which I just read is important, and also read that it may be as easy as exhaust valve adjustment. At any rate I used it as some leverage when negotiating. - There is a shaft where the steering linkage connects which seems to be deflecting, causing some play in the steering wheel (probably the same wear to which Caddy was referring in the above post). Tie rod ends and other linkage works and moves properly w/o play. I suspect (hope) it is a bushing or something of that nature and not a huge deal. - Was more or less a garage find so the risk of missing stuff bits and bobs is higher Hopefully it will work out well and I got a good deal. Thanks again for the help, and I guess you'll see me around a lot more now Thx, Sean

I can not believe the manufacturer of the oil in our machines is really going to matter. Oil being there sure. Regular oil changes maybe although I test that all the time. I do make sure the oil is full.

She's on her own feet now! And now with new meaty shoes!!

It's a little short on horse power.

It's when you start collecting 'em... that you've problems. Imagine this "what's in your mirror" pict.

I have a '74 B80 I picked up last fall . The exhaust I have is a "stack" made of the muffler from a late 70's 10-12 HP cub and a short piece of pipe to get it away from the hood. I like the tone and low noise level a lot and I need to make it taller to get the fumes out of my face when driving. Mine needs to be as light weight as possible and maybe another 2 feet long (tall). The only thing I can think of is maybe thin chrome sink drain pipe? How did you make the exhaust on yours? Thanks!

You know I was sure that Brian and Evanloock would be two of the folks to speak about this! And I am sure you guys know. I can read an imprint on one of my 2 inch pulleys that it was made in Philadelphia, PA. Thanks guys!

so this is the wiring diagram ive decided to go off of. the only thing im going to do to modify it is, off the key acessory have 2 wires come out of it. then they'll go to 2 inline 15amp fuses. 1 will go to the headlight switch the to my head lights and tail lights, the other will go to my electric pto switch. at least if the lights blow i can still cut grass or plow snow or whatever im doing. so i went out bought 2 inline 15 amp fuses and then a 30 amp fuse for the starter solenoid. i still need to go get a 4 post solenoid. in the event that someone or myself is wrong for having a 70 amp key, at least i know that ill blow a fuse to the starter before i burn my key up if we're wrong. i was going to run the lighter off acessory as well then to another fuse but i dont think i want to put it in. i wouldnt need it unless im charging my phone while driving. again ill post up progress pictures along the way. thank you to 953 nut for supplying the diagram and ideas n explanation this is the most simplistic you can get with wiring this.

Looking sharp!

Believe this is the info you need although there is no part number to identify this page. This is for 2004-2005 This is from an earlier manual but the 94-2190 part number not listed Garry

Higher blade tip speeds can help with modern mulching deck and blade combinations. The speed improves the ability for the clippings to be held under the deck and re-cut several times while they're suspended in the vacuum effect. But neither the decks nor blades from the last century were designed to work that way. The older decks were meant to snip off the clippings and throw them out of the way as quickly as possible. In fact, from reading Red Square, I've come across several reports that modern "gator" mulching blades don't work all that well on the old-school Wheel Horse deck design -- they work best with the OEM blade profile which is a "high-lift" design -- it creates a wind tunnel effect to stand the grass up straight so it can be snipped off in one swipe by the blade and then ejected. Trouble is, it's a little counter-intuitive but blade speed seems to reach a point of diminishing returns with the older high-lift design. You'd think that more speed = more lift because it will move the air faster. But grass blades will only stand up so quickly, particularly on a thick lawn. Not to mention that as the mower moves forward, there's a boundary effect as the moving wall of air hits the grass just ahead of the blade, which can flatten it down momentarily -- exactly what you don't want to happen. It'll just cause as many "misses" as it will "hits" between blade and grass at the front, and the back of the blade sweep (which is supposed to be set about 1/8" higher than the front of the sweep) will wind up doing more of the cutting. Since the back is 1/8" higher, the cut height will be off. In practical terms, some of your grass will get cut 1/8" higher than the rest, leading to an overall more uneven cut. The thicker the grass, the more noticeable it will be. If any of your blades are out of balance, higher speeds will increase vibration and shorten the life of spindles and bearings. That's not a big deal on modern "throwaway" equipment. But eating Wheel Horse spindles could get costly. You might get better results by leaving blade speed alone and stacking a second blade at a 90-degree angle on each spindle. Some folks have tried this and reported good results. The second blade does cut a bit taller than the one at the bottom of the stack, but it helps ensure that stubborn grass gets cut one way or another. The lower blade edge should have less work to do and just provides the "finished" cut height. Stacked blades do put more rotating weight on the spindles and bearings -- be sure to keep them greased. The starting load on the engine will be greater, but once the extra mass is rotating, it should have enough inertia that it ought to help keep the engine from bogging down on thick grass as long as you keep travel speed under control. It also goes without saying that keeping the blades properly balanced is critical, since a stacked configuration adds more potential balance problems. The short of it is, other folks have experimented along these lines and it keeps coming back that Wheel Horse's engineers did an outstanding job -- there's not a lot of room for any noticeable improvement if a deck is properly leveled and the blades are sharpened and balanced. There's a limit to how fine a non-mulching deck will leave clippings. Grass that likes to bend down when mowed or has too many stalks for seed heads doesn't cut well with either a mulching or non-mulching deck in a single pass -- problem lawns have to be mowed with only 2/3 to 1/2 of the deck over the uncut grass, and leave more of the blade sweep to clean up the edge of the cut swath. And you'll probably have to adjust travel speed. The real time-saver is a wider deck in those cases. Just my , but you'll probably have better luck working with the existing design rather than against it.

Ya eventually put her in a suburban or rj. And the shaft is normal. Same k91t I just put in this suburban in photo. Hours wise I'm not sure of. But it doesn't appear to have many on it. It fires up first pull and idles up and down amazing.

Jim, don't know what you just had for breakfast but I want some! That was goooood!

Fuses are a good thing, lots of older didn't have them and should have. Presuming you have a battery ignition system with points and a coil the following simple diagram should be helpful. The wire sizes are not Gospel, if you want to use a larger size (smaller number wire gauge) that is fine. The second and third are for reference for other systems.