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We'll, I finally got around to tackling my 953 project. If you remember a member of my local tractor club approached me about some Wheel Horse tractors he needed to sell. I went to look at them and one was a CG8 and the other was a 953 that had a busted transmission and was in parts. I ended up with both for $175! Well, with the help of Buckrancher's machining skills (thanks a lot Brian!) I now have the trans back together. I worked on the original Kohler for a while and now it is running great. The wiring is trashed and I had to jump from the battery to the coil, but she is going good, drives, and works great in all gears. Next comes rewiring and getting the deck mounted. She ain't pretty, but she's mine! I'll probably break her back down and do a full repainted, but she's all original in her work clothes for now.

Dear Lord, Jay Paxton has an exploratory procedure scheduled tomorrow that needs your divine intercession. Please guide the surgeon's hands to be steady and effective to do the task at hand, and not create any further damage We pray against any infection or complications. Calm the heart of his family. Give Jay your peace so his body can heal under the best conditions. In the name of Jesus, bless him to be healthier after this procedure than before. Lord allow this temporary trial to bring this family closer to you and each other. When Jay is coming out of surgery, let the side effects be minimal. Work a miracle in this whole situation and bless it from beginning to end. Thank you Lord for your blessing on this family. We praise you as we know we are in good hands- the very hands of God. In Jesus name, we thank you for each day. Amen.

I'm bringing a good selection of items that are on my store including the new removable receiver hitches and headlight bezels and some stuff that is not listed yet like ------- Reproduction dual wheel spacers for 6 x 12 rims with new bolts Drag links and tie rod for 953/1054 Sickle mower parts -lift link,travel hook and bracket and skid shoe.

Thanks again evryone. Just left the hospital. All is good. No further surgery required.

Seat is on finally!

For anyone wondering what the inside of the original backrests looks like.... I've made a new plywood insert, transferred the T nuts, reapplied the factory foam and put it back together. My cover split on the backside under the metal bracket so I think we can sew the bottom back together and with some staples and duct tape, I can make it work. 99% of the cover damage will be hidden behind the back brace.

hi guys and gals im new to this forum and a new owner to a used 1970 wheelhorse electro 12 model # 1-7255 i paid 20$ for it off some guy knew nothing about it nor did i try and see if it ran. what caught my attention was the hydraulic deck lift and i wanted it!!! so i brought it home cleaned everything up to find out mickey mouse had a nest behind the gas tank and a few wires were chewed. i also noticed a few switches and a flasher relay in there. I think someone hacked it all up. and i dont think this tractor had any of them but i want to get rid of the useless garbage and re wire this whole thing the way its suppose to be. ive searched everywhere and cant find a wiring diagram anywhere!!! also maybe someone can tell me what these controls do? i know the big white switch is head lights and obviously the key is ignition and start and the big knob to the left is the choke but thats all i know. the little metal switch is an on/off switch to what i dont know and the one next to it is a 3 position switch in to i dont know. and the white in the top right has a flasher relay connected to it. If someone can tel me what belongs there and what doesnt i think it will make more sence. Like if there doesnt need to be a fuse in the circuit like the 69 charger diagram ive been seeing then ill re wire it accordingly. But then i see brake lights in a diagram its all a mess! I dont know what belongs and what doesnt im also missing misc. parts like the mule drive which i know, boogey wheels and im missing a cover that goes ontop of where the shifter would go if it was a 3-4 speed. can anyone tell me what the plate is called so i can try and find it on ebay? thanks for your help i will answer any questions oupload any pictures you want to help better your response by the way!!!! this has a foot throttle conversion before anyone says anything about the trottle missing. it does have the electric pto. and i know the fuse holder is broken.

Sunday i leave my home with my trailer in tow to buy a non running C series tractor, 42 inch deck & Plow for 700 dollars,its a 18 horse twin Kohler. i'm a NEWBIE on here but not to Garden tractors, i have a chance now to buy a 516H, which way should a 57 year old Horse nut go, i can only get 1 this week, be easy on ole Fred

I have one to add here . I picked up this # # four today on CL for a little more than scrap. It has a surprisingly good set of Town&Countrys and the front wheels which look to be the longer hubs for my Suburban. The former owner found a carpenters solution to mounting a different engine.

Would Andy Granatelli steer you wrong?

Since you are not using hardener in your paint you need to give it a few days to cure, put them on too soon and the paint may loose adhesion. Those days of delay are working in your favor!

If you have a cap on the outside you may not see it come out but in any case it's going to take the path of least resistance once the cavity is full. I've had it come out the inside, the outside and both and it's never been consistent. As long as you grease them regularly you'll be fine. I'm sorta in the middle of a test right now. On a non-worker I've always used sealed bearings so I didn't mess things up with grease. Last summer I got a great price on quality sealed bearings in bulk. My main mowing tractor needed them so I cleaned the cavity out and used them it that one. I'll see how long they last. I just got my 1976 "B-160" I purchased new back and I'm going to put them in that too. I only had a half acre in Florida but now I mow something over 2 acres so it will really be a test.

God is the best surgeon there is. Prayers sent, get well.

Hey Richard! Yup, Emory says she is his favorite horse so far. I'm sure that will change once I get one of his lawn rangers going though!

I'm uncomfortable pushing the absolute maximum with a vehicle nearing 150k miles even though I try to keep up with maintenance. For instance I proactively changed out all front brake lines but have not yet done that on rear. They may be fine but I don't want to break pushing maximums. From several sources the amounts for my vehicle runs from 7,700-8,700 So I feel this one allows me to haul several round hoods or what have you comfortably.

Here's the rest of the pics from the ad for WH2 BTW:

He will Ole Red..if he gets rid of that crusty tractor someone wants him to haul out out ther for him! Have fun fellas

Well, I bit the bullet and bought a dedicated horse hauler. I have not seen it mentioned in this thread so I'll tag my experience in on this for others to compare. I am planning on using U-POL Raptor. I'll post up pics of before and after but for now, just the trailer as noted in the WIMM "what's in my mirror" thread.

You kind of gave us half the information on both of them. Is the non running "C" an eight speed or hydro? Is the Kohler just not running or has it thrown a rod. I would bring some jumper cables and some starter fluid and expect to have good compression on both cylinders and perhaps an attempt to fire. Is the 516 H running? A non running Onan can be a money pit and if it won"t run you can't test the transmission. I would be hard pressed to pay more than $ 300 for a non running Hydro because you have no idea what the condition of the transmission is.

almost to stopping point lol

The best way to check out the transmission is to drive it around until warmed up then chain it to a tree and see if it will dig in in both directions. The fact that it has been setting for a while shouldn't have hurt it, looks like it was well cared for and stored inside. The fact that it hasn't had a loader on it is a plus in my book, lots of loader tractors are worked hard and will require more parts replacement.

Thank you for the prayer Richard. Jay

Unless you ABSOLUTELY have to have the FEL right now I would jump on #2 in a hurry! The Kohler engine is worth the $ 1500, you get the rest for free! You should be able to pick up a loader for around $ 1500 later on.

OK.... less than 2 weeks to go until the big show!! Let's see some more good stuff up for grabs here all!

All issues fixed and operates great. My brother made the bracket and rod to hold the sickle bar in the upright position. Will get a video hopefully tomorrow.

I don't even know who makes oil for STP. I know Napa sells 30W oil as Napa oil but it's made by the same company that makes Valvoline. (Ashland Oil) Personally I use Shell Rotella 30W when I can find it on sale. I stock up when I do. I do use STP Oil treatment cut with a little Lucas Oil supplement and a little gear oil in my Power King transmission.

If it is good enough for the King it is good enough for me!

yea i thought of that. its been sitting in shed apart for few days anyway lol

I have a 2000 1500 Silverado with a little over 264,000 that I pull an 18' flatbed and a 30' RV.

Here is the upgrade that I made to my "Wheel Horse Wrench"... The top is the section that kept getting torqued outwards. So I figured that would be the best place to weld this piece on especially considering that my more beefier wrenches this size had extra support in that area.

Well now that's good news... rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy!

The one zerk takes care of both sides.

There we go. Thats what i like. Now i got a few diagrams to work with. I can make this work now. Basically im retrofitting a newer style motor with an old school wiring system. I did something like this on an 80' jeep cj7. But went the other way. Went from points to electronic ignition. Thanks you everyone i will reply when it is finished what ive done to resolve this issue. Im pretty good with wiring. I can figure out how this going to get wired now. I will report any issues along the way. but for the most part sounds like its a full custom wiring job. It makes me beat my self in the head a little bit but thats the fun of electrical

Prayers sent, In Jesus name. Amen

Welcome to the forum. The 1970 Electro 12 originally had breakerless magneto ignition and it appears your engine has been replaced with one using battery ignition so we need to do some searching for an appropriate wiring diagram. See if you can find the identification letters on the back of the ignition switch for each terminal. The Kohler spec number on the engine would also help to determine what charging system you have.

It's a Ez Hauler. Aluma or Alco in Maine makes them for 3-4 trailer companies who brand them but all made at same locale. EDIT (Actually it is manufactured by "ALCOM ") 17 seems to be popular these days. At least out this way. With the blunted vnose it adds another foot or so. So you could get away with saying it's 18 but it's a stretch. All metal, aluminum, chrome and most stainless is attacked by the chemicals they use these days. i plan to undercoat the underside but also plan to use a protectant wax on the exposed aluminum. See pic. It gets pretty good reviews. If the dealer had had spares of those upgraded wheels like yours I'd likely have bought that upgrade. Mine are powder coated steel with bearing buddies. So they should be ok in the salt/snow at least for a while. It is not a case for aluminum vs steel in my case. Ultimately it might be but in my case with a 1500 my truck hits its recommend limit well before either designed trailer's max. As such, a 1000 pounds lighter trailer means 1000 pounds of more tractor and parts I can haul. Also. Axles as spring 3500's And I would note that it is what I deem my 2006 tired 1500's limit is. Ordinarily new fresh 1500 may haul it at max load....

Sorry, didn't mention too much about its history. Poor tractor had been used at a marina to move boats. That's how the trans was busted. It had a hitch booted to the sheet metal with a tow ball in the back and a chai on the front, not to mention that ugly muffler setup. My guess is the chain was used to pull stuff at the marina. I'll be glad to get rid of the chain and the muffler!

Better yet lets see it this fall at our little plow day. Don't remember if that one still has the bevel gear. I'm going to pull mine out of the 1054 and put in an 8 pinion.

I know these pictures are horrible, because I'm upside down underneath the tractor trying to take them, but I see the guides that I think you are talking about, but all they do is keep the belt from falling off, there is nothing to pull the belt away from the engine?

I can hardly wait for the winter episode where he gangs a bunch of walk behind snow blowers and pulls them down the road.

Wondering what a C 120 Auto would be worth? It is my second WH but I don't want to keep this one. I bought it in a package deal with a nice Tiller, blade and 36" SD deck. It has the Tecumseh HH120 12hp motor and it has a terrible knock and smokes pretty good. Going to pull the head off and see if I can figure out what it is for sure. The hydro seems okay on it. The right axle seal is leaking. I have a 36" SD deck or a 36" RD deck I could include with it. Both in very good condition. The seat that is in the pic does not go with it. I am switching it out with the one off my C 101 I originally was going to part it out but some of you talked me out of it. I would rather sell it whole and see someone get her going good.

I painted the timing marks while i had the head off and the T mark coincided with TDC. I used the ohm meter approach to determine the point at which the points opened. With a .020 setting they opened after TDC. I had to keep opening them to over.030 to get it to open at the S mark. I have ordered the 47 411 04 plunger, will be interesting to see if it is a different length than the one in the tractor. The points on the points on the tractor were opening after TDC that is why i put on new ones. Still had to open them way up. My supposition is that at some point a PO replaced the points with the newer ones but not the plunger.. if you look the original points 47 150 01 show as NLA and replaced by 47 150 03. There is no mention there about the need to replace the plunger on older engines (pre 1983). (Only the little note I found in the K241 parts manual.) When the new plunger arrives I will measure the two and report back... I wonder if the same issue impacts 12-16 hp singles???l

Here she is waiting for the new tires. I got the bagger working last week and rigged up a new cable to hold the chute to the mower deck. I could use another one of these plastic hub caps. Dealer said it's part number 109154 and is discontinued. Anyone know where I can buy one?

If you have a few issues from painting the finish coat outside, do not despair. If your paint has some decent build, you can easily remove orange peel and dirt specks with color sanding. What you do is start with 1000 grit and Windex to lightly massage some of the defects away. The sanded areas will appear dull and the little pits or low spots will appear as shiny areas. Do not stay with the 1000 grit very long. Then take out the scratches left from the 1000 grit with 1500 and then 2000. Leave some of the low spots alone. After all, even cars have a bit of orange peel. Then, it is on to the Meguiars. fine cut cleaner https://www.harborfreight.com/16-oz-meguiars-fine-cut-cleaner-62561.html Then make it shine with this https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Swirl-Remover/dp/B0002SQVX0. The advantage to using Mequiars abrasives is you can paint after using them in case you burn through.These pictures show the different stages of sanding and buffing. Te key thing is to sand lightly and let the paper do the cutting and CHANGE the paper before you think you need to. BTW, I am not super experienced at this as this is my first attempt. The one showing the most low spots is a motorcycle fender with maybe a half hour total [with 800 grit] constantly checking by drying it off and checking for progress. The tank is after 2000 grit starting to polish. and of course the completed fender. Paint is Rustoleum with hardener out of a Harbor Freight $29.00 HVLP gun You can do all this by hand with slightly damp T-shirts and they need to be CLEAN. You could always practice on a hidden area like behind the belt guard to get a feel for things.

im getting a shed hopefully this week. Considered building one but this time of year extra time is scarce and we are still unpacking from the move 3 weeks ago. Anyway I had to get 2 1/2 yards (just under 5k lbs) of 3/4 stone. I'd heard these tractors move material very well, I knew it pushed snow great. So I dumped half the load out and graded it out with my 3/12. Made short work of it pushed the heavy pile with ease, impressive.

Used the C-141 for grading my carport project this spring. 's move dirt well.

I would still fill it with diesel fuel as 953 nut said and let it sit for a week or more, drain and refill with fresh diesel fuel and let sit for a couple more weeks. You will be amazed at what soaking things in diesel fuel will accomplish in a few weeks.

Jeff, I scrounged up some inside weights and painted them to match my 606 wheels. This is a very slick set up.

@wheelhorseman