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Tyler Your order will be in the mail tomorrow and should reach you by Saturday or Monday at the latest. Let me know if this shift pattern decal will work for you. Working late tonight and will be doing the Brushed Chrome decals for orders shipping tomorrow. Very sorry to hear about your Dad.

You better run, the posse lynches horse thieves.

Selling my original 550 suburban, @wheelhorseman1000 has agreed to transport it to the show. $800 includes the ride. PM me if you have questions.

The guy was listing this 115 with a cart in craigslist for $50. I went down to take a look and once I saw the cart i knew it had to be mine… the tractor is for sale.

Anything you can do to increase the air flow across that rear cyl can only help. Those Onans really throw off a lot of heat. That was one reason I designated my 520 a snow machine only. It was too hot to use for mowing. With the belt guard vented and a collector around the rear cyl., the cab stays about 35deg above outside temp. which is perfect for snow chucking.

A little progress is better than none at all!

Carlos, what you have is 1/8" pipe threads. That fitting is made by Parker-Hannifin. Part number is 68VL 3-2. It has 1/8" pipe threads, and hold a 3/16" tube. This fitting includes all three pieces, including the rubber gasket.

Nice Score! My 420 was in much worse shape than yours is now but it only had 300 or so hrs. on it. I took my time and spent months detailing it top and bottom with a little paint work also. It was my favorite tractor that I ever owned. Lots of fun to ride around on and a big time attention getter. Make sure you treat the leather with the best leather conditioner you can find, you really want to get some oils back into it...

She's on her own feet now! And now with new meaty shoes!!

She I in pieces now getting cleaned the rest of the way

Another one mile road trip today.

The belt guard is in the stock location. Unfortunately the tractor is at the family farm right now. However I have a pic of my 520 HC with 518 hood that may put a better perspective on the location of the parts in question. The belt cover was damaged so I just cut it off. Follow the belt and you can see it doesn't overlap the valves at all, in my opinion the belt guard bracket is more of an obstruction then the guard.

As much as I like my 314-8, I wanted another Hydro. I have a C160 Automatic which is really my favorite, but last year it got to where it was unreliable-nothing major but still issues that cost me an hour or two every time I used it. I lucked into this '96 416 H a couple weeks ago. I had bought another 48" deck last winter so I was all set!! It is a nice well maintained tractor with a little over 1000 hours on it. NIce smooth power but it wants to surge at idle sometimes but not always. Only issue I have is I really don't like the column mounted direction control as much as the lever on the C160 but I'm starting to get used to it. I guess if I don't like it after using it a couple more times I will get Matt's foot control kit. Is there any trick (besides duct tape) to keeping the gasket/seal around the oil filter/shroud in place?? This one doesn't want to stay in place for very long.

I bought a 416-H a few years ago that had a very loud tick to it. long story short the cap on the valve stem some how came off and was causing the tick.easy fix and tractor runs good now. good luck eric j

I have seen guys drill holes in the belt guard to allow hot air to pass thru instead of being obstructed. Best place to shoot with a laser heat gun is as close to the spark plug part of the head you can get to. That is where its usually the hottest, along with near the exhaust valve area of the jug. You can get a dual needle heat gauge for cylinder head temps(used for snowmobiles mostly) that has thermocouple probes that mount under each spark plug. Then you can monitor head temps on both cylinders the whole time you mow. Mike

Sorry for not posting any info, been busy. Weekend weather was not conducive to getting anything painted. Got a few items shot late yesterday. Decals have been shipped, thanks Terry! Need to get the frame back on the tranny by this weekend to be done for the show. Big issue is the hood. Need to get old decals removed and painted. I am thinking about taking it to a body shop to see if they can work it in next week so I can concentrate on the rest. It also has two small holes drilled in it for somekind of a non original hood ornament (next to factory holes), need them filled. Got the cracks in the seat box welded up, need to grind them down and get it painted. Have a couple other parts, dash, lift lever, engine, and wheel/tire cleanup to go. So this is what was painted over last couple days.

And yes, I'm driving my deck using the larger clutch pulley.

That's probably for a restricted air flow (dirty air filter) indicator.

From a 418A...I think it is the same

I booked last week. When I called the first time I had a hard time understanding the guy he sounded like he was from India and he said it was all booked up . So I called back the next day the woman said she had a room for $69.00 and I said yes I'll take it. But she told me Super 8 has acquired comfort inn's and now this comfort Inn will become Super 8 and the Super 8 down the road will become comfort inn.

Looking forward to it. Will have some b and c series sets for sure

Ha! Good eye on the fender. Actually, that came off a really beaten Horse I got a while ago because it was being scrapped... Saw some good parts on it and so I took it home. It was thrashed, but when I bolt that fender pan on top of a broken frame I have behind the house, and then weld the frame on top of a Farmall A wheel weight that's under that pan to make a nice weighted base, it'll make quite a fine mailbox and paper box mount out by the curb, I figure.

I bought a new battery, installed it and the everything is fine.... starter now turning the correct direction. The 1975 c-100 has been brought back to life. Regards c

Yep, just coincidence Ken. That golf cart actually belongs to Reeds 93 year old Great Grandfather.

Very nice! So, I'm taking it the tractor is for sale for 25 bucks?

Same here. Got a phone message. Called and was told our reservation was confirmed.

This is somewhat humorous and some will laugh at me but I can't help it. I want to mow in style. Now I live at a mile long dead end in the Adirondacks where you need 40 acres to have a building lot! Low population density! 2 neighbors on that mile long road! And I have NO neighbors that can see me mowing, no one passing by and no kids at home so other than the gal that is not at all fond of my herd there is no one to see me mow! Yet I want my ride to have nice hubcaps! I've already bought too many WHs and I refuse to buy a nice set of hubcaps by themselves! Now I will buy a whole WH with the only thing going for it is nice hubcaps but I'm NOT going to buy hubcaps separately! So I've got a WH hubcap fetish or something, I don't know, but DARN they look SO good all polished up! I'm sure the grass will appreciate my chopping more if I dress up! So when I see that someone has bought a full set, well, I feel a bit envious... Some day!

They were definitely out in 86 I can remember them in the showroom at Rolle Bros., Riverhead,L.I.,NY I spoke to the last of the Rolle brothers about 8 years ago and he told me that they sold at least four of them. I should have picked his brain a little more as far as our beloved tractors go. I remember buying my Work Horse GT-1800 in 84 and 2 years later out came the LSE. I can also remember thinking, I can't afford that!!!

Slow but sure! Here are some pictures of how I supported the muffler on my worker GT14. I repowered it with a predator, but the same idea would work with a kohler. Hope this idea helps!

The rear cylinder is shrouded and holds heat. Myself and other members have noticed that the belt guard bracket is up against the fins near the valves. The valve seat failures are a common problem like you said you read. I trimmed my belt guard and brace and can feel a noticeable increase in the hot air blowing out the side.

Looks great, the C-160 is my favorite model.

True in all three cases Jim.... 6'5", 5'8", and 5'4" respectively. Reed was supersized from the start weighing over 11 pounds at birth. With his interests in math, physics, robotics and love of the universe, It should be interesting following his journey . Thanks to you and the family for all the good wishes and being part of our "family".

I "make too much noise" while removing the dishes from the dishwasher; so I'm not allowed to do it anymore! There are lots of other tasks that I have learned annoy my wife; I do them while she is home so she will forbid me from doing them any more! She hasn't caught on yet.

Saw a nice one today.

I know it has been months....but finally, progress. . Now...i have 22 days... I think I can, I think I can, I think I can.

Hey everyone, I have a 97 416h with 800ish hrs. I've done little to motor other than regular oil changes/cleaning of tins and cleaning carb a few times and my Dad helped fixing wires near fuse block and rear cylinder. After reading all about the heat related problems of the (P216) 416 and (P220) 520 Onan engines over the years, I thought I'd see what the temperature was on the cylinders after mowing my little half acre property @ 70f outside temp. (This usually takes about 30-40 minutes as I have a lot of kid related objects in the way.) This was roughly five-ten minutes AFTER getting done mowing when the idea occurred. I got about 310f for the rear cylinder and about 235f for the front. The temps change a lot when going over the fins, but I used the highest temp I seen on the gauge. These aren't running temps, but after I got done. I used a laser temp gauge from harbor freight. I was wondering if anyone else has done this and was wondering what the temperature would be if I cut some holes in the right side drive belt cover like I think @Ed Kennell did on his snow machine to help keep warm. I plan on tracking this info and sharing results more accurately as the summer goes on. Thanks C

Well, I kept slightly quiet about this tractor on the forum, I put a pic in the "What's In Your Mirror" thread, but that was about it. I got a 92 520-H, It ran and drove great, had no real issues, except it was pretty dirty and needed a paint job, because the tractor paint was quite faded, and someone had painted something in the vicinity of it once, because it was covered in some overspray of something. I am going for more of a refresh, more than a full restore. My plan is to take every thing down as far as I can, E-tank any rusty parts which are reusable and get new parts of which were unusable, Power wash the frame and transaxle, do some sanding and painting without going to crazy on those parts, sanding and painting the tins and rims, and probably putting a new set of tires on it, because 2 of them leak and the rears are mis-matched. Here are two pics of the tractor before: And as of today, I have her about 95% disassembled. Just a few odd parts, like the steering parts, and brake pedal and such, but I am so excited to get this project started! I am really excited for the outcome! I mean, it took me about a month to take everything apart, and I can only imagine how fun putting everything back together will be after taking it apart , but I know that almost any tractor from here on out will be easier, because these just have so many parts. But just want to get it done for the show this year!

On modern Vtwins, I have seen around 300-350 when running full power no load other than the hydro pumps. This was on a big commecial ZTR. You want to try to keep the temps closer to each other as any unbalance can and does contribute to bad things happening.

Paul, On my 67 K301 it says the points should begin to break as the "S" is centered in the hole. Continue rotating the engine until the points reach maximum opening. Then set the gap to 0.020. I just did this and the motor runs like a watch.

I agree with Paul, but if the tractor is used in colder temps, I would tend to use the lighter 10W30 especially if your tractor has the hydraulic lift .... meaning it has the Eaton 1100 transmission. All the autos should be warmed before using, but some of these Eaton 1100s have a quirky requirement for an extremely long warm up time before the lift will work.

We could help you out better if you'd tell us what model you have and a picture would be great.

Nice score... is the fender yard art?

I'm still still a bit stunned even though I was pretty certain it would happen in time after I was reunited with it in 2014. Of all the Wheel Horses I've owned this one has always been very special to me. Listening to Luanne about how Larry felt about it really touched me. He will be in my thoughts every time I work on or do work with it. It never left Indiana. We moved to Florida in 2000 and left it. I guess the little thingy under my user name, 'back home again' has two meanings now.

A few years ago I found a deal on neon clocks and brought them to the show. Sold them all and last year had several people asking for them but said it was a one time deal. I found 13 this year and am making them into Wheel horse clocks. The neon tube casts a red glow when lit. The face is linen beige background. Price will be $60 this year instead of $50 due to the cost of the clocks and material to reface them. If any RS members have an interest please PM me and I will reserve one for you till noon Friday. I had 35 of them at the 2015 show and sold them all by noon Friday. Will only have 13 this year. As usual we will be selling tractor decal kits at up to 40% off website prices. And like always if we do not have your kit with us you can buy it there at show price and we will mail it to you ASAP when we get back home. Looking forward to seeing everyone at the Big Show.

Welcome to the square! Looks good. Decals will make it pop. Marv

Love to see fresh Red paint! Also like the high back seat.

This one from Harper isn't too shabby; Toro made one like it but I couldn't find a picture of it.

I hear you on that one. I have used bonds in the past and yes, I did go with a skim coat to start with. I know this will take a lot of patience to get it right, so I definitely will not rush it. I will post a pic of some work I did this evening between the hood and honing the axle shaft bearings. Thanks for the advice 953, as always much appreciated.

Unless you have used bondo before I would suggest you practice on a scrap piece of wood first. Also, you want to use several thin coats and pick up a "Surform" with a half round blade to do the rough forming. Don't put on the bondo and come back in a few days to try and sand it down, you will work yourself to death.

Well guys, I know I'm going a bit slow, but I've finally have it 98-100% torn down, of course, the tires will come off of course, just leaving them on just for moveability, and i MIGHT take off the steering components, but I'm not too sure, may, may not. Time will tell. But, I am pretty much at the power washing phase, but of course....its winter....gotta figure out how to get around this one.