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Well.... the sickle bar is on the 701. Still have some minor issues. Right side foot rest is siezed in place and currently hitting the sickle bar which is preventing it from being lifted. Ordered the new belts but drive belt for motor is way to long. Missing the bar and bracket that holds the sickle in upright position. Will need those dimensions if anyone has them. The skid plate won't go on as I think someone has replaced the drive pulley which is slightly larger. But, overall it looks very cool. Doubt I'll ever use it though..... Was able to get the new seat and back rest on as well that came from David Rice . The seat patina doesn't quite match but the back rest frame and pad match almost perfectly.

...seen this one before, just noticed, it's for sale again. Search Boston's C/L, "Wheelhorse" one word.

I thought I would post some pics of a welding table I fabricated a couple years ago. I built it with 4, locking casters, so I could roll it around (outside) if I wanted to and still have air and electrical outlets to run my grinders and die grinders anywhere in the shop or outside if I want. I mounted me chop saw so that it sits flush with the table so I can feed stock into it. I also mounted a vise to it that's pinched on the table and it can be moved around the table. I mounted a pipe vise at one end also that can be moved if desired. The top is 1/2" thick and I left gaps to accommodate moving things around and clamping material down during set up. I have all my clamps and grinders hung on a rail on one end and I have my plasma cutter sitting in the center with a catch pan above that slides out for cleaning off slag, but also serves as a protector above my plasma cutter. I plan on building in a drawer only tool box on the other end to store my die grinders and accessories, along with some common tooling needed when welding and fabricating. Below you can see my pvc 36" tig rod storage containers that fit nicely on the bottom rack. They are all marked for size and filler rod type. Note. I have my HF Minnie tire changer temporarily mounted to the top because I have been mounting and un mounting tires during the RJ restoration project I have been working on. It is mounted using pinch type hold downs between the table top slots.

Changed out the exhaust on my C-125 a while back. Not only was the muffler the previous owner installed ugly, it also had a nasty habit of blowing exhaust fumes directly in the operator's face. Looks, sounds, and functions much better now

A starting circuit draws more than 25 amps so the fuse that's blowing is un-realted to the starter itself. You have a short. Could be in the solenoid if it only happens when the key is turned to start. Most likely the wire from the key switch that runs thru the safety switches to the solenoid is chafed somewhere. A bad ground will not blow a fuse unless what's badly grounded ends up grounding thru something else that's connected to the fuse. The diagram Gary provided shows a 15 amp fuse in the circuit. If the diagram is correct someone put a bigger fuse in trying to solve a problem. The starter current is all handled by the battery cables. They are capable of handling 200 amps so I think you have a starter motor problem (noise) and a starter control (small wire from switch blowing the fuse) problem.

I guess I now "officially" own a 1968 Raider 9/10 (some had "9" and some had "10" decals?), while digging through the boxes of piece parts, I found the ID tag for it. Since I have the tag, it moved from parts donor to future restore. It will take some work, the head stand has major stress cracks, and is missing the lower mounting plate on the left side (broken off). The original engine is in a box of parts, and the solid state ignition is shot. No steering wheel, no seat, none of the dash components. Broken hub welded to the left rear axle 😡. Does have fully functioning 6 speed transaxle, decent fender pan with the correct tail light, original dash panel plate, best fitting hood I have seen yet, 0 play front axle and steering gear, and what appears to be the complete speed attachment plates and bell crank assembly for a 1968 42"SD deck (no deck). So, Model # 1-6931, Serial # 466813 (decal marked as a Raider 10) is back from the dead. As a side note, I bought this whole collection of parts (mix of Raider 10 and Commando 8 stuff and three engines, for $150 primarily for the set of vintage General Tire AG tires in the picture for my 854 restore.

My wife couldn't believe I actually bought a that had paint on it and didn't need to be rebuilt! It came with a 42" RD deck and will become my go-to mower.

Garry, that diagram doesn't have a 25 amp fuse in it Mike, The bendix drive on your starter could be in need of cleaning and a bit of graphite lubrication (don't use oil)! When looking for for a short I use a 12 volt test light in place of the fuse. As long as the short is present the light will continue to be illuminated, when you clear it the light will go out. There was a 314-8 in 1993, here is the manual

Made the three hour trip to Knoxville TN to pick up a beautiful 310-8 from @Ken_in_TN, nice and a great guy too.

The B-100 is probably the most simple wiring of all the battery ignition tractors out there. First, as has already been said, check your wires connected to the battery, the regulator/rectifier, ammeter, and ignition switch. Start with the ground wire and make sure that it's clean and tight to the (-) lug of the battery, and to the connection at the engine bolt/frame. Then check the positive cable. Clean and tight at the battery, then check where it hooks to the starter solenoid. At this junction, you will also find a smaller red wire going to one side of the ammeter. From the other side of the ammeter, a green wire goes to the B (battery) terminal of the ignition switch. Now, find the regulator/rectifier. That's the ribbed aluminum device sticking partially out of the hood stand as you are sitting on the seat. On the back of that is a connector with three wires, one orange (if original) and two white, which are coming from under the flywheel of the engine. The orange wire is where the 13.5 to 14.5 VDC comes from to charge the battery. The two white wires (marked AC on the R/R) are from the stator (alternator) under the flywheel. They should read approximately 38 to 48 VAC when the engine is running a half to full throttle. But you only need to check that if you don't have the correct DC voltage needed to charge the battery coming from the orange wire. AFTERTHOUGHT... needless to say, if the battery has a bad cell, you can charge it until next week and it still won't hold a charge.

Hi all! First I want to say thanks for letting me join this forum, it's helped me many times before. I've had a long love for wheelhorses, ever since riding on my uncles 71 commando 800 as a kid. Now I own that tractor, and a 75 B-100, which I use regularly. I look forward to learning a lot more from you guys!

I finally got one. 😀It looks to be a 1997 520H with 630 hrs on it. Back fins were clean and free of any gunk no leaking from underneath, haydro oil was full and clean. Also came with a 44 in two stage blower. just two spots with surface rust on the tractor. Pictures below I am excited to get my kwik way on it but first I want to do a full comprehensive maintenance on it and mow a few times just to make sure all is well. I am excited to join the group now what to get next 🤔 It also came with most of the manuals, front plastics not chrome hub caps as well below are a few more pictures

I just picked up an '86, 417-8 that was having the same problem. the PO had put in a new solenoid, and key switch and gave up trying to fix it. I looked and found the solenoid was just sitting there kind of loose on one bolt and the battery cables were not all that tight either. snugged everything down and problem solved! I would check all the grounds

@onanparts.com I for one like the Onan, if the only damage is the piston and rod, I would fix the engine.

Sometimes, one really wonders "why" would someone do that? Here are some recent examples, let's see yours! 1 & 2, let's add plates inside the head stand gas tank mount, for no apprent reason! 3, let's drill holes in the frame for a motormount, don't use them, and weld it down instead! 4, not quite sure where the motor mount holes should be, so let's just cut slots in the frame! 5 & 6, dang it, I hate throwing away that broken wheel hub, let's just weld it to the end of the axle (who cares if it is straight)!

Definitely a bad cable! This is the (new toro replacement) of the #108144 cable - WOW -- they looked cheaply made online and now this confirms it and notice the unprotected ball end - the cable will eventually start to fray/break by the clevis from wear/ vibration - for comparison here is a picture of the one I make (just like wheel horse did)!!!!!

That is a very good looking tractor, congrats!

Uh oh..

this may help.

Does your B-100 have an ammeter...some do. If so what does it show while running? If no meter then follow Ed's advice on clean connections and making sure the regulator is grounded. Still no go... follow the wiring harness from the rectifier towards the engine. There will be a connector, open it find the two white wires from the engine. Use your multimeter on AC and check voltage on those wires while engine is running should have at least 30 volts. If not come back for more tests

Check and clean all the connections on the ignition switch, the reg/ rectifier, fuse blocks, battery cables, and grounds. Make sure the R/R has a good ground where bolted to the tractor. Oh, to the

Certainly check all the wiring and grounds as stated above. If you have suspicions there is something catching and rubbing the flywheel and / or starter, I would pull the starter and tin off to check this out before attempting to start it.

Gee, nobody recommends a cheap steering wheel puller. Pulls the bearing plate off in a few seconds without screwing up anything. Also, if you can scrape off a piece of the old gasket, measure its thickness, you will know what the thickness of the new gasket/shim package will most likely be. You still need to check, but usually it is the same.

I responded to a CL ad for WH parts over near Pittsburgh PA. This is what he had - "Wheel Horse Raider10 10 hp Tecumseh engine torn down cleaned and ready to rebuild. Also another 10hp Techumseh torn down for parts, and an 8 hp Tecumseh that runs. Also a whole other tractor I believe to be a Commander 8. The only thing missing is the rear end". Besides the two tractors and engines, he is including everything in the pictures. Besides the Raider 10 with the high/low tranny, the number of tires and rims included caught my eye. Plus, the Raider 10 is sitting on a nice looking set of AG tires and rims. Got the whole lot for $150, supposed to drive over and pick everything up this Saturday. The Commando 8 does have the rear end, he said someone tried to open up the case, but I am going to pick it up as well just to see if any usable parts left in it. It also looks like someone cut slots in the Commando 8 frame for some reason. If I decide to salvage the frame, I will weld in a backer piece and fill the slots and redrill the mounting holes. Thought it was a pretty good deal for the money.

if you have any starter drag at all it takes that much more juice to move it creating heat and friction and resistance and resulting overloading the circuit and blowing fuses in a lot of cases......but anyways check all your wiring back to the starter and solenoid and battery check all connections thoroughly start at the ignition and check for anything bare or chaffed showing through then if you can't find anything from there take the starter right out and bench test take apart clean it up if you can take some emery cloth clean up the armature or the area where the brushes rub make it shine also check the bearing too make sure its not binding

While I was digging through the boxes of piece parts last night, this is what I came across. The ID plate for a Model 1-6931, Serial #466813, which is a 1968 Raider 9 (odd because they had a 10hp Tecumseh and some they had either Raider 9 or Raider 10 decals). So, I guess this means that I am obligated to do a restore for this one since it made it into my possesion. So, once I finish the repair on the other frame to use for it, it will stand in the corner until my 854 is finished this fall. Now I guess I am going to have to rebuild that Tecumseh! I also did find what appears to be the complete speed attachment plates AND the complete bell crank assembly used for the belt drive to the 42"SD deck for that year.

Thank you all for the warm welcome and for pointing out some things to fix. I am going to replace that pin asap and will need to look at that plug at the rear cylinder to keep it cool. I am glad I took some close ups since it's my first Horse I was hoping if anything was amiss someone would notice. I know I will have questions in the near future but I know I am in good hands on this site. Rod

Hmmm, Mrs K uses a "New Math" equation. + + +gun + boat = cruise/year I think I'll take her to an Island this year.....I hear TMI has a nice tour, and it's only a 30 mile drive and not too expensive.

Whenever I say I like Onan's I'm accused of being biased! That's OK, cuz I am!

That is a very nice first Horse...while they are fun to collect, your first one will always have that special place. fofor all the

Not true, mine keeps count, something to do with the Kohls card!

to I met a very nice couple in battle creek last june when I was there for my daughters wedding, they own a small engine/lawn tractor repair shop but I forget the name of it. I just looked it up they are called urbandale repair and are very nice people.

@Shynon that worked out great! I used a dental pick I have in my toolbox yesterday and was able to remove the black connector and feed the wires through! I reinstalled the flywheel and shroud then ran out of time. All I need to do now is put the coil and ignition switch on and finish the wiring and the electrical part is done. Then on to the fuel system and put a battery in it then I can start it.

I will probably never do another one again. I haven't touched a sewing machine in about 10 years and even then I wasn't very good at it. This took way longer than I expected. (About 12 hours) but it also came out better than expected. It's even comfy with new foam. (About an inch more than originally)

I have to admit I really like the smoothness and power of an Onan.If you only need a piston and rod it will be worth repairing.With that many hours why the rod failure?I would examine all the internal parts carefully.You will need to flush the fuel tank and replace all the lines and filters.There are a lot of electrical connections that will need to be checked if it has been sitting for that many years.I ran into the same issues with my last 416h and to check out the transaxle,lift system and general shape of the machine I put a cheap Honda clone on in place of the Onan.While I'm checking the Onan out I can use the machine and the price was reasonable.You have many options.Once you get the machine up and running you will really like it.

Couple of weeks ago, I picked up a bunch of stuff. One of them was a 310-8 and a 36" SD deck. The deck had no belts, blades, nuts for the blades, or idler pulley. The deck is solid, spindles seemed pretty good so I bought blades, belts and nuts. I just finished putting it together now and took it for a little mow. I am quite impressed with this little deck, it's super quiet (the spindles are perfect) cuts pretty nicely too, and it can get into places which my larger decks just can't. I need to do some serious tuning on the 310 though to run such a big deck!

I hate when people buy these old tractors just for the money to make on them. It's like basicly selling to a scrap yard because they tear them down and part Them out and in my opinion that's not being in the hobby or a collector. What really kills me is when a guy also has a bunch of cool old tractors and just buys them and packs them away in a trailer or barn and does absolutely not one thing with them. No shows, no restores, nothing. Let's them sit and rust away more. Shame but oh well in the end not my business what someone else does with their stuff.

Got the front mower hooked up to the c121 today. Worked great. Just have to get it a little more level but I don't use it to mow the yard so it doesn't matter

Yeah, I was wondering about the bushing thingy too. I've had this since the 80's (2nd owner), so it's probably from the factory like that. It sure looks like a bushing or sleeve, but then again, it also looks like an outer lip on the casting that just looks like a bushing. But . . . it makes me wonder: what if someone wanted to bore out a hub and insert a sleeve/bushing, then it would be like new again. A simple and effective way to reman a hub! How do you make a hub puller out of an old hub? I haven't run across any stubborn hubs yet, but when the time comes I sure would like to have one handy. j

That is one sweet set up. Everything you need is right there!

RJC1965 A fine start for you enjoy the ride.

Nice 1st one, you will see what I mean. Glenn

Mowed the yard today I love it.

Here ya go: An excellent book: http://wheelhorsestory.com/home/8-straight-from-the-horse-s-mouth-the-wheel-horse-story.html

Up here in the Northeast, $300 to $400 would be about it, but they're probably harder to find in Texas, and might go for more. The Ag tires help it, but the overall rust and steering wheel hurt it. I'd fix the steering wheel so that potential buyers could drive it. Nice Chevy pick up. What year? Jim

There's a reason folks here are partial to Wheel Horses. After all, this IS www.wheelhorseforum.com. There are forums for green thingys, yellow thingys, and about any other thingy and you'll find that the folks on those forums are as partial to their respective thingys as we are to red. I think the best thing to do is read up on the threads here and learn more about Wheel Horses. There's a wealth of information here as well as folks willing to share their knowledge. Get an understanding of the history of Wheel Horse and how the tractors have evolved over the years without a major redesign, just keep tweaking a proven design. Oh, but they quite making them in 2007? Yes, they did but we live in a disposable world these days. People look at all the bells and whistles and big horsepower thingys at the big box stores and won't justify the cost of what it takes to build a machine like a Wheel Horse. Bells, whistles and a limited life win out over decades of service. Excellent write up @EricF

Here ya go. Try to ignore that fuel line, I know it's not routed correctly, but it works.

I just got the new cooling fan in today. Need new oil filter, oil, and the decals! There's a show in late may hopefully I'll have it ready. Of course we are getting into the busy season for me, grass is growing and spring sports are full steam at work. I also do 10 lawns on the side so spring cleanups then mulch for a few ohhh and we are moving at the start of may AND the alternator on my other '84 ( 3500 GMC) decided to quit after 33 years of service (pretty sure its original since it's a Delco-remy and made in USA). But I will get it done👍🇺🇸

I sold a vintage Walker Turner band saw on CL a week or so ago, I had it listed for all most 2 weeks, I don't put my phone no. in the ad, only after they send a email I give out my no., I had no joke about 30 emails saying "I want it can you hold it?" I sent my phone no. to them and got about 15 return calls, most of them said on the phone I want it, well after the near 2 weeks I finally had one guy show up just as he said and bought it, and he was very happy said it was the nicest vintage band saw he had seen in a long time, well I get fed up with all the no shows, they piss me off.