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Starting my 57 rj 35 resto. Will post as I go along. Gonna do a gas monkey garage time schedule to try to have it done in 3 weeks in time for mentone 😂. Will finish full disassembly tommarow morning

I was looking around for some pictures of the D250 counterpart and came across these videos. This one is different - I've never seen one one run off the rear pto like this one with the 3 point used to raise and lower it. This looks like a club - Maybe someone can translate. http://gutbrod-schrauber.de/gutbrod treffen-2/gutbrod treffen 2016.html

Might as well post the entire collection. Available at Amazon or your local flea market! AND THE ONE THAT STARTED IT ALL!

I picked up an early 90s Wheel Horse 246H yesterday. It has a 38 inch deck on it. Looking for as much info as possible on it. Thanks.

Just purchased a 1987 312-8 I'm thinkin in pretty good shape--got a lil rattlin when clutch is out--kinda like an old Harley panhead I had--should I be concened--I'm thinkin not--this is a real informative site--bein kinda cyber dumb, I'm gonna do my best to learn what I can. Would like to confirm year--pix of model #'s included. 12 hp Kohler Magnum runs great. Any advice/help appreciated

The look that lady is giving you is priceless!

I picked this nice running little 603 up a few weeks ago from Fun Engineer. I added the back rest and some old wheel weight I had laying around. Had it out putting around and thought I would take a couple pics to post. I will probably blast the whole machine down piece by piece and give her a new coat some day. I have had just about every, sought after, model from one time to another, but this is my first 603. Glad I picked her up.

Really it is, deer and turkey especially, rabbits and ground hogs all roam the hills and of course the dang moles ... Then there's the 10+ acres of wooded land back in WV that I'll inherit, Jeff.

I was waiting for that pic Richard..... the second one is better tho ... looks to be a couple of big bad Bobs ther, Zeek and others! I sure do wish the BS was on my calendar!

The 417 8 is one of my favorites and my top twin Wheelhorse. You have to love the electric lift! I will say that finding good points for them is difficult!

I have every confidence in you. This will be great to follow. Good luck. Glenn

Takes most of us three weeks to decide where to start!

ok thank you Bob will head out the garage and clean those bolts up.

Pictures of the tube in an 8 speed. Look to me like the tube is sort of necessary or the cable will be rubbing on the shifter

The C-141 has a cradle mounted engine. The engine is grounded to the cradle through the bolts, and the cradle is grounded through a wire to the frame. The battery grounds to the frame. Make sure all grounds are clean and tight.

The lady said " Watch out I got a nut and his dirty looking friends sitting next to me , you got your gun I hope "

This is the rough draft.

If the gas in you tank was low, the slope may have caused some air to be sucked into your fuel line. I got a lot of air into my line one time, and had to re-prime the line and the filter to get the pump to pull the fuel up. Jim

A belt cross-section that seats really well and deep in the pulleys, combined with the new, grippy belt compound will grab like no tomorrow. Add in some great engine torque, and it's pretty easy to get a "surprise" launch. Definitely have to let the clutch out slow and gentle; you'll want to intentionally slip the belt a little to ease into the "bite" from the pulleys. Seat position has some to do with it, too. Harder to control the take-up with the pedal if your leg is fairly straight at the engagement point. Shift forward slightly to have more bend at the knee to control it. I'm short, and learned that lesson from driving various tractors and manual transmission vehicles over the years. (The harshest teacher was an old Ford pickup with a three-speed column shift and heavy-duty, fully manual clutch -- no hydraulic actuator, just straight manual linkage. If you didn't control the clutch take-up firmly and carefully, it could kick the pedal back and slam your knee into the steering wheel rim faster than you could say "Ouch!") I still love manual transmissions, but my 520 hydro has me spoiled now...

I like the way she is hanging on to hubby like ...save me from this freak! Priceless! Wasn't there a caption this on that pic?!?!?

This is the third horse purchased

Slopes like that will kill a splash lube engine in short order . Kohler limits the K-series singles to 25* and in my opinion 20* is nearly too much . I run mine just a tad overfilled on the stick due to a ditch line and haven't had an issue so far but prefer to do that with a pressurized 22hp Briggs on a green thing I have inherited . The rest of the property is too rough and the heavier old Horse handles that much better without beating up what's left of my spine , which isn't much anymore . On the slopes pictured previously , that would take some serious wheel weights to prevent wheel slip and a good open mole hole could also tip over a tractor easily - you need the lowest center of gravity possible for stuff like that , up and down or across the slope . Even the smaller SCUT tractors will still have a fairly high center - that could result in a bad day . Sarge

Tgtack Sounds like you have it covered. You off to a good start. I have always thought that these tractors are like a book. They have a story to tell. I know it is corny. You just don`t what you are getting till you use them. Enjoy the project.

On the older models with the tilting seat pan.there is not much metal at the rear mounting points causing the holes to have cracks in them. I used light gauge angle iron to form a U-shape that then bolts to the top of the seat pan tower/tool box. On the modern 3,4,500 series, the same can be said of the tower area. Even though the seat pan does not ilt in that area, the seat itself has cantilevered mount areas and mine was so cracked it nearly dumped me off he tractor because it was hanging by a thread. Mowing side ditches puts a lot of stress on this type of seat and my 520 has a lot of hours. All the blame does not belong on tractor design Some of us old guys put high backed seats on the early models of tractor for comfort When dismounting the tractor, we tend to lean on the seat back. On the tilting seat pan models, it is possible to lean back with enough force to have the seat pan latch to let go and dump you off the tractor. Either add a second latch or drill and bolt the fenders and add bolts through the top of the footrest assembly. i landed right on my tailbone. on a gravel driveway. I was half way up a ramp loading the Raider10 and probably dropped 4 feet. I was off work for two days. Again another example of operator error because i moved the seat higher and to the rear. On the newer tractors, be aware that the transmission belt vibrates the idler pulley and it puts side load on the bushing. It is out of sight behind the belt guard. The transmission tunnel is made of thin metal and the bushing can cut through and rapidly create an egg shaped hole and even cut into the pulley swing arm. Change the bushing and keep oil on it. How long has it been since you removed and cleaned the top hat bearing on the PTO engage clutch? It is a wonderful piece of engineering, but a bit of cleaning and fresh oil on the needle bearings will not hurt a thing.

Done; who said we were done? We have a time honored tradition of picking on Mike!

If the bowl of the carburetor has gas in it, the engine should fire on the first try. However, it is a problem with the gas running back toward the tank via gravity, maybe a small check valve in the fuel line between the pump and the tank might help. The check valves in the pump itself are supposed to keep that from happening, but as you said, after 18 years they may be weak. https://www.mcmaster.com/#check-valves/=17kvrf9

Here are some photos of the c160 that I found for sale.

Congrats on your new 603 purchase. That looks to be in pretty nice original shape. How does the Techy run? They are a fun little engine when they run good! I completely restored this 603 a few yrs. back. It looked even worse in person. There were at least a dozen 3/8 holes in the hood I had to repair. Its one of the tractors I wish I still had...

I did find a local c160 hydro with 42" deck and a GT14 so I might have to check them out.

The next thing I'm going to do on 875 is see if I can get the Kohler K181 to fire up. Going to use the wiring diagram 953 nut shared and use a solenoid in the start system. A solenoid came with all the parts in the C-120 deal .

Pictures added to the original post above

Had that a couple of days ago.

I don't have pictures of a manual trans all mine are hydro but where the frame (4) bolts to the trans there's a small hole (maybe 5/16" diameter) about dead center at the top where the cable goes through (its kinda a PITA but not all that bad approximately where the orange wire with silver clip is hanging in my pic) then the cable is attached via a clevis to the mower/mid rockshaft (where the snow blower lift link is in my pic) and the guide tube really is a necessity as the cable will wear through the trans case without it as well as the rear under seat rock shaft and the snow plow axle quick hitch to fit the tiller up, Jeff.

I finally got a chance to work on this between monsoons it came right apart right now this is the donor engine if the repairs to the original don't work it appears to be a compatible block to transplant the internals from 418 engine in should the jb weld repairs to the block not hold.I am close to the test run on that this weekend. If it holds up I will probably find a way to mothball the spare and keep it for future emergency Many thanks for the input and links to the manual. This is truly the best forum of any sort. Ernie

Thanks How are the parts, engine, bearings, and etc to get for these, I hate to buy it and not be able to get parts or pay a fortune. Maybe a 1257? For a 67 looks in nice shape.

Here are some pictures

My 857 does that and now with a new TSC belt the 1257 can really rear up. I get her up hill I can do some nice wheelies! It went from slipping city to grab & go. I just learned to clutch out easy.

There have been quite a few 1277's show up in the last few years despite them being a bit rare in overall numbers . If nothing else , I've seen 3 in the last year show up on FB tractor and general buy/sell groups - might want to join a few in your area and keep an eye open . There was a really nice one that got parted up in Michigan - it was just too far to go after for me at the time . Sarge

Ohiofarmer, Thanks for sharing and adding to the list!

Worked on her a little this morning looks like the deck got ran into something, but nothing a little heat and persuasion can't fix Also removed the carb and breather for cleaning and also going to perform a valve adjustment upon reassembly. Pretty sure none of this has been done in a very long time.

Well my friend, I hope you don't ever lose that cents, since, sense of humor. Laughter keeps you young. Thank God, the bus is always late in Ardentsville.

I was hoping for the master bath! but I'll take what I can get nowadays

My 310-8 has done this (exactly as you described) for years. Mine might need 3 attempts to start on occasion. This is surely the fuel issue as described by Bob. One thing you might try immediately is to use the shut-off valve at the bottom of the fuel tank. (Remember to open the valve the next time you want to use your tractor!!!!!) I personally have not tried any of the 'corrective' fixes, I just run the starter until the fuel system is filled. The downside of this practice is the additional wear and tear on the starter.

My 96 does the same thing if it sets more than a couple days. These fuel pumps take a while to pick up fuel especially when there is not much fuel in the tank. Mine does better if I fill it up before I park it. I've seen where some people put primer bulbs (like an outboard has) in the fuel line.

The 417's are my favorite work tractor. Any 417 I've ever seen has had the Series 2 engine in it. They are a great engine and one of the best sounding engines Kohler ever made in my opinion. If the one one you are looking at has only 800 hours on it and if it was at all taken care of then in most cases it has a long life ahead of it. I had one that had 2200 hours on it, it ran so nice that I treated it to an 8 hr. refurb.. If the price is right I'd grab it.

Something like this.

http://www.navioneer.org/riprelay/The Navion Files/Delco_Remy_Generator_Regulators.pdf According to this book by Delco Remy, page 16. The L term works as such.... When load is increased on the L terminal the output of the generator is increased & this power is sent to the accessories pulling the load but not the battery. Hence providing extra power for the accessories with out over charging the battery. The 1445 bulb is a 2.7watt 14v bulb, it should be available at most automotive stores.

I took the liberty of eliminating the amp meter and added the Generator light for you.

Hydro Motor to Transaxle / Transaxle to Frame 177.) Transaxle motor gasket area taped off 178.) Tape removed/cleaned 179.) Comparing different gaskets, notice the second one would leak!!! 180.) Strainer 181.) Installed 182.) Gasket placed on transaxle with guide bolt 183.) Hex bolts/washers 184.) Motor installed 185.) "I.D." Tag 186.) Installed 187.) Transaxle mounted to frame with Dipstick and Chrome oil fill nipple 188.) Hex bolts/washers {These are not all O.E.M. correct as I did not have the 3/8" x16 -7/8" on hand. I will replace them later.} It is also worth noting that I am adding the hydro cooling fan and the bracket, that the fan mounts to, should be bolted on here above the frame; however, I purposely left it off and will install it later. Next the rear hubs

Well I got the tachometer installed . I had to move the volt meter down on the plate and cut a hole in it . The tachometer was to long to mount on the plate. Not yet wired but what a job working in cramped space and on my knees. I will hurt for 2 days. Tomorrow I will fire it up after I double check all the wires are correctly installed.