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Starting my 57 rj 35 resto. Will post as I go along. Gonna do a gas monkey garage time schedule to try to have it done in 3 weeks in time for mentone 😂. Will finish full disassembly tommarow morning

I was looking around for some pictures of the D250 counterpart and came across these videos. This one is different - I've never seen one one run off the rear pto like this one with the 3 point used to raise and lower it. This looks like a club - Maybe someone can translate. http://gutbrod-schrauber.de/gutbrod treffen-2/gutbrod treffen 2016.html

Might as well post the entire collection. Available at Amazon or your local flea market! AND THE ONE THAT STARTED IT ALL!

I picked up an early 90s Wheel Horse 246H yesterday. It has a 38 inch deck on it. Looking for as much info as possible on it. Thanks.

Just purchased a 1987 312-8 I'm thinkin in pretty good shape--got a lil rattlin when clutch is out--kinda like an old Harley panhead I had--should I be concened--I'm thinkin not--this is a real informative site--bein kinda cyber dumb, I'm gonna do my best to learn what I can. Would like to confirm year--pix of model #'s included. 12 hp Kohler Magnum runs great. Any advice/help appreciated

The look that lady is giving you is priceless!

I picked this nice running little 603 up a few weeks ago from Fun Engineer. I added the back rest and some old wheel weight I had laying around. Had it out putting around and thought I would take a couple pics to post. I will probably blast the whole machine down piece by piece and give her a new coat some day. I have had just about every, sought after, model from one time to another, but this is my first 603. Glad I picked her up.

Really it is, deer and turkey especially, rabbits and ground hogs all roam the hills and of course the dang moles ... Then there's the 10+ acres of wooded land back in WV that I'll inherit, Jeff.

I was waiting for that pic Richard..... the second one is better tho ... looks to be a couple of big bad Bobs ther, Zeek and others! I sure do wish the BS was on my calendar!

The 417 8 is one of my favorites and my top twin Wheelhorse. You have to love the electric lift! I will say that finding good points for them is difficult!

I have every confidence in you. This will be great to follow. Good luck. Glenn

Takes most of us three weeks to decide where to start!

ok thank you Bob will head out the garage and clean those bolts up.

Pictures of the tube in an 8 speed. Look to me like the tube is sort of necessary or the cable will be rubbing on the shifter

The C-141 has a cradle mounted engine. The engine is grounded to the cradle through the bolts, and the cradle is grounded through a wire to the frame. The battery grounds to the frame. Make sure all grounds are clean and tight.

The lady said " Watch out I got a nut and his dirty looking friends sitting next to me , you got your gun I hope "

This is the rough draft.

If the gas in you tank was low, the slope may have caused some air to be sucked into your fuel line. I got a lot of air into my line one time, and had to re-prime the line and the filter to get the pump to pull the fuel up. Jim

A belt cross-section that seats really well and deep in the pulleys, combined with the new, grippy belt compound will grab like no tomorrow. Add in some great engine torque, and it's pretty easy to get a "surprise" launch. Definitely have to let the clutch out slow and gentle; you'll want to intentionally slip the belt a little to ease into the "bite" from the pulleys. Seat position has some to do with it, too. Harder to control the take-up with the pedal if your leg is fairly straight at the engagement point. Shift forward slightly to have more bend at the knee to control it. I'm short, and learned that lesson from driving various tractors and manual transmission vehicles over the years. (The harshest teacher was an old Ford pickup with a three-speed column shift and heavy-duty, fully manual clutch -- no hydraulic actuator, just straight manual linkage. If you didn't control the clutch take-up firmly and carefully, it could kick the pedal back and slam your knee into the steering wheel rim faster than you could say "Ouch!") I still love manual transmissions, but my 520 hydro has me spoiled now...

I like the way she is hanging on to hubby like ...save me from this freak! Priceless! Wasn't there a caption this on that pic?!?!?

This is the third horse purchased

Slopes like that will kill a splash lube engine in short order . Kohler limits the K-series singles to 25* and in my opinion 20* is nearly too much . I run mine just a tad overfilled on the stick due to a ditch line and haven't had an issue so far but prefer to do that with a pressurized 22hp Briggs on a green thing I have inherited . The rest of the property is too rough and the heavier old Horse handles that much better without beating up what's left of my spine , which isn't much anymore . On the slopes pictured previously , that would take some serious wheel weights to prevent wheel slip and a good open mole hole could also tip over a tractor easily - you need the lowest center of gravity possible for stuff like that , up and down or across the slope . Even the smaller SCUT tractors will still have a fairly high center - that could result in a bad day . Sarge

Tgtack Sounds like you have it covered. You off to a good start. I have always thought that these tractors are like a book. They have a story to tell. I know it is corny. You just don`t what you are getting till you use them. Enjoy the project.

On the older models with the tilting seat pan.there is not much metal at the rear mounting points causing the holes to have cracks in them. I used light gauge angle iron to form a U-shape that then bolts to the top of the seat pan tower/tool box. On the modern 3,4,500 series, the same can be said of the tower area. Even though the seat pan does not ilt in that area, the seat itself has cantilevered mount areas and mine was so cracked it nearly dumped me off he tractor because it was hanging by a thread. Mowing side ditches puts a lot of stress on this type of seat and my 520 has a lot of hours. All the blame does not belong on tractor design Some of us old guys put high backed seats on the early models of tractor for comfort When dismounting the tractor, we tend to lean on the seat back. On the tilting seat pan models, it is possible to lean back with enough force to have the seat pan latch to let go and dump you off the tractor. Either add a second latch or drill and bolt the fenders and add bolts through the top of the footrest assembly. i landed right on my tailbone. on a gravel driveway. I was half way up a ramp loading the Raider10 and probably dropped 4 feet. I was off work for two days. Again another example of operator error because i moved the seat higher and to the rear. On the newer tractors, be aware that the transmission belt vibrates the idler pulley and it puts side load on the bushing. It is out of sight behind the belt guard. The transmission tunnel is made of thin metal and the bushing can cut through and rapidly create an egg shaped hole and even cut into the pulley swing arm. Change the bushing and keep oil on it. How long has it been since you removed and cleaned the top hat bearing on the PTO engage clutch? It is a wonderful piece of engineering, but a bit of cleaning and fresh oil on the needle bearings will not hurt a thing.

Done; who said we were done? We have a time honored tradition of picking on Mike!

If the bowl of the carburetor has gas in it, the engine should fire on the first try. However, it is a problem with the gas running back toward the tank via gravity, maybe a small check valve in the fuel line between the pump and the tank might help. The check valves in the pump itself are supposed to keep that from happening, but as you said, after 18 years they may be weak. https://www.mcmaster.com/#check-valves/=17kvrf9

Here are some photos of the c160 that I found for sale.

Congrats on your new 603 purchase. That looks to be in pretty nice original shape. How does the Techy run? They are a fun little engine when they run good! I completely restored this 603 a few yrs. back. It looked even worse in person. There were at least a dozen 3/8 holes in the hood I had to repair. Its one of the tractors I wish I still had...

I did find a local c160 hydro with 42" deck and a GT14 so I might have to check them out.

The next thing I'm going to do on 875 is see if I can get the Kohler K181 to fire up. Going to use the wiring diagram 953 nut shared and use a solenoid in the start system. A solenoid came with all the parts in the C-120 deal .

I got my front and rear wheel weights on today and also my front weight mount. Then I decided to put the new stack on.

New to the red square site and the proud owner of a Raider 10. I have read some conflicting information on the internet but I thinks it's a 1969 or 70. Can anyone verify for me? The model# is 1 -6041 and serial # 571354. Engine is a Tecumseh hh100. Look forward to the new hobby and using this site. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks!!

hi, I must have the wheel horse bug now, but see a wheel horse 67 not sure what it is. Need output bearing the external one anyway. Are the parts for the older models still available? The asking is 225 for it. It did run when parked 5 years ago. extra parts for other WH As a side note the one I just bought got home, so far so good. Wife was away seeing family she didn't know I bought it. Anyway she came and I showed her how to run it and she was out there just going to town cutting the grass with a big smile. Also the 314 h people here use the ethanol gas at all? Just use the premium without ethanol? the 67 model would a person have to use lead added supplement to the gas for the engine or does the engine have hardened valve seats. Thanks Tim O

Garry

You need to to look at it with the idea that the only thing free in this world is bad advice. To think that we can get something for nothing is what we all want to so despertly believe, but we are lying to ourselves. When I restored antique cars and motorcycles, I dealt with camshafts that were not hardened properly and parts that were not sized correctly. To have to deal with an engine were the camshaft lobes turned to s--t in a few thousand miles, in an engine that I had thousands of dollars tied up in is a lesson that I will never forget. And then there are the parts that were simply machined the wrong size and would not fit. And, don't tell me it's the oil, or I didn't break it in properly, because I paid to have it hardness tested. It flunked a hardness test with flying colors. Do you even know the process used to harden a camshaft? You never dealt with automatic transmission aftermarket parts made backwards. And, I doubt you have personally experienced ebay manipulating feedback to keep sales up for high volume sellers selling questionable parts? I look at it as a job that I do not want to do twice. The bad part of this whole deal is that for a few bucks more, we could have aftermarket parts as good or better than OEM. But, the greed based sellers just don't give a rip, because they realize 1 cent is all it takes to loose a sale in America. You answer your own question when you question if I am able to determine the alloy type. Well, the odds are that the Kohler piston has the right alloy, and that we do not have a clue what the aftermarket piston alloy is. Also, regarding the weight of the aftermarket piston and connecting rod, weight is important due to the counterweight on the crankshaft and engine balance. The ideal situation for me me would be to have the cheap s--t for the tight wads, and for $10-50 more, the better parts that were put through some sort of quality control for people like me. Parts that were as good as OEM or better, and when I put a micrometer on them, they measured what the book says they should.

I've been getting a plan together for it for almost a year! Lol, I finally got started today lol

Have a model number and serial number off the data decal? Looks like it can be seen under the left side of the seat. Garry

Thanks for the pics , good to see the vintage show scene in Britain still going strong.

well I admit its not as nice as my C-120 but that's ok just want to get it for maybe a slow resto to do over the summer it does come with attachments a factory snowblower ...... rear grader blade and mowing deck hoping to find a plow for it by fall

Here is the picture that hangs in the guest bedroom.

Since I checked my Seat Switch and discovered that I had shorted it out with a staple and taped it with electrical tape probably in 1998. Well, The tape was partially worn and would short out on certain bumps and sometimes kill the engine. I attached a picture of my non Wheelhorse approved modification. So... I shorted the two wires together with a wire splice and the engine ran great. The Lawn grew and I mowed it. The mower did not back fire until I ran it out of fuel.. Do you think that I fixed it? Would that cause intermittent back firing if that switch was partially, intermittently shorted to ground by touching the Wheelhorse metal under the seat above the gas tank? Time will tell.

This is great info. Thanks so much. Are you saying I should not be doing side slopes with a K series motor? I have a pretty good 4:1 slope on one side of my lot. Would I need to mow up and down? Also, is the 1277 on a longer frame than the 877?

I thought about this thread last night after I got two miles away and the bike started running really rough. It limped home at about 30 miles an hour Simple things first included taking off the tank to for better access to the plug wires. I figured I might as well pull the fuel filter and test the beast with a little test tank Boom! She purred like a kitten. New fuel filter is gonna happen

Nice 603 @Dhodge ... I've kept the addiction under control for the last few months . Though I'm kicking myself for not buying that disc that was in Burton forsale on CL a few weeks back .

The C-160 and GT-14 are both very good choices. Depending on the size of your lawn and other factors like other things you want to do with it the GT-14 may be a bit bigger than needed, I have one with a front end loader and don't think I would want to mow with it because of all the tight turns and obstetrical I encounter. The C-160 is only slightly bigger than the 877 and will handle a 48" deck effortlessly. That being said, a test drive of each will tell you which one is for you. No mater what you buy,

Good showing by the Wheel Horse thugs! Mike....

I have been very busy trying to find something to work on these tractors with a single cylinder kohlers. I did find one that the manufacturer said would work.it has a adjustment for 1 to 10 cylinders. But don't hold me to it yet they will say anything for a sale. http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/2-Inch-Tachometers.aspx has a lot of tachometer's that they said will all change to single cylinder. But it will need a filter to help with the voltage fluctuation . http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/tachometer-signal-filter.aspx and I also found a site that's tell you how to build your own filter . http://www.camaros.net/techref/electrical/tachfilter/index.htm guys I'm still going to do this I will find a good working tach yet. I would like all the advice I can get from members here about what will and will not work.

This is the 2nd wheel horse purchased

Well the 875 got her wheels put back on tonight and moved out from behind the Horse Barn ready for her time in the spot light. I'm going to try and not get distracted by any other tractors that come up for sale..... Notice I said try......lol