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we all know what deck spindles look like after 30 years. finding replacements is easy on line,but most look just what we are replacing. i have been through 3 in the past 2 years ,had another one fall apart the first mowing of the year and found another hanging on by 2 bolts,corrosion had removed the other two. so what to do ? well, first make some molds, next melt some metal and finally machine the castings. make them fit perfectly and make sure they wont break again. these run so smooth and quiet,shouldnt have wasted time or money on the other ones i replaced over the years...

Well the new to me 520 has pleasantly surprised me. No hidden issues and runs strong. Today after cutting it got another bath. I love getting on a clean machine.... specially in a neighborhood of cubs and craftsmen machines!

If you wish to post a lot of pics you may want to consider becoming a supporter. This would remove your picture limitations and help keep the lights on here. Trust me, it don't take long to get your money back in information and help.

Well, she's on all fours, and she runs!! Just gotta fix a problem of gas not getting to the carb. The rims and tires are temporary till I find a correct set, I also noticed that the steering wheel has never been cracked before which is a plus!!

If that tag is unreadable, and the numbers were stamped in (pressed in), use the old "tombstone rubbing" method: lightly clean it first, lay a piece of thin paper over it and rub lightly back & forth with the side of a pencil lead, the depressed area with the numbers should appear white on a dark background now.

So now we need a contest to find out the best use for a picture of Squonk 1. Your child has the hiccups and you flash the picture at him to scare the hiccups away 2 3 4 Or...The second place prize is a picture of Squonk. The first place prize is no picture of Squonk. Don't feel bad, because my wife is the only person on Earth who thinks i am good lookin'

I'm just going to use this for a photo dump and ask questions as I bring some glory back into my C-121 Decided to dive into it last night. By no means will this be a super in depth resto. More along the lines of cleaning (a lot of it) and some minor painting. I will be leaving the panels the way they are as it is original and I like the look. Main concern is it being mechanically sound. The motor will be coming out tonight.

Here is some stuff I have up for sale on the classified and CL that I'd be willing to bring to the show if paid for prior..... Prices are in the classifieds and may change and since one cant edit posts in this thread, seek the pricing there or PM me.

Here is the picture that hangs in the guest bedroom.

Appears to be an id tag under the twin decal.

This is on Dan's 1076 and I took this pic to plagurize his wiring & gas line routing but then spied the show battery hold in! I'll get some better pics up when my paint is dry. Will also put up some tips on how to weld new studs on that tray that always seem to be gone. I had made one out of flat steel like orginal but liked his better and took it off and put it on the 1257.... I told you fellas they are often missing! Trading tip here Dan Take a short piece of 3/8" gas line or tubeing and cut it to slip on the bottom end of the lift lever stop for a nice cushion. @Achto

This situation opens up the opportunity for members to start manufacturing replacements themselves, as many of us have. The quantities will be small, much too small for the big boys to reproduce. Many of us may have special knowledges to do this, it does provide an opportunity to make a little extra money and "stay out of trouble" with the spouses. It does not take a big investment if we start small and conservative, utilizing just what we may have. Red Square and the Venders Section provides a great opportunity to advertise and we have a great community to help promote our replacements. From someone who has been happily doing this for 17 years now; start small, very small and listen to input. You're not going to get a lot of sales the next week, it takes time for people to start purchasing your items. Good Luck . . . .

Sorry to hear this. Personally I wouldn't trust anything to those quick lube places. Not impressed with the concept of trusting my vehicle to people who are payed minimal wages and poorly trained. The maintenance intervals called for in Kohler and manuals have proven to be very successful, Lots of us are working forty and fifty year old equipment.

Mine has 16x6.50-8 fronts and 23x8.50-12 on the rear

I'll second the quality and workmanship of Mrs Buckrancher's seat covers!

I bought one for my 854 and about buy another for my modified project.

Wellllll! I guess I won't have to beg you to sell me that extremely hard to find steering wheel. Don't remember what boat manufacturer used that same wheel but I do remember seeing one like it on a '60s vintage boat, it was white too.

You can dump your on us anytime then!

Not sure about that wheel @953 nut, it definitely was not painted but sure looks like an original. Was white through and through. I'm thinkin it maybe came off a Cub & made by the same supplier to WH? Weren't Cub wheels white? It was stuck on so bad I had to cut the spokes off, melt, the plastic off and then go at it with big pullers & lots of heat wrench. Didn't care if I trashed it I was goig to get the correct color anyway and can't tell from the pic but was way out of round. I did get a real nice original replacement from A-Z Maybe I shouldn't have trashed it as maybe it was a fluke factory original?!?!?

Depends on the model year. Earlier C175 used Series 1 KT17s The oiling system was weak and if run low on oil or run on hill they had a tendency tp throw a rod. The Series 2 used on later models had much improved oil pressure systems and are excellent engines. Just finished mowing a neighbors yard (Hadn't been mowed yer 8-10 inches tall) the C175 with a Series 2 did a great job. no power issues. That said I also have a Series 1 with well over 2000 hours it still runs well smokes a bit on start up. Keep a series 1 full up (or a little over) avoid runnng long periods on hills they will probably work just fine. Spec #24300 and up are Series 2

Check with buckrancher.

Well did a little tinkering. installed a battery. Cleaned the contacts in the ignition switch, and she fired right up and even idled. Mowed a little hastily but not too bad Performed a compression test after test run, seems a little low got 90 psi not sure what spec is. All in all not bad for original 40 year old engine. Transmission seems to operate smoothly in forward and reverse. One of the lines from the front of the lift cylinder to the valve is leaking I will have to address as well.

Probably because a lot of people couldn't justify the electric start at the initial purchase... these machines were comparatively expensive to purchase new, even back in the day. So I would imagine that some people opted for the most economical model they could, and perhaps just upgraded to electric after the first one blew up, when they could afford it, or when they got tired of pulling the rope! I'm sure the dealers didn't mind having a couple spare take-off or trade-in engines around to sell for those people who couldn't afford a new one.

Yes Dan that is a good piece even tho it looks to be older than 953 nut! He probably remembers back in the day when there was one under every car hood. It's refreshing to see that guys here are keeping the old school technology alive. Really explains the operation of those regs in detail for us morethanwereallywantedtoknow guys. Maybe @gwest_ca could put that in the files if not already there. Will pick some up, bet the one on the 857 is bad too. I suspected it never worked hence the hole in the dash for an ammeter that I scrounged out of an old abandoned corn picker! . Can just see it under the wheel. Guess I have to leave it out since Dick took it out of the diagram! Thanks I really didn't want to have to cut a hole in that nice polished dash. Thanks for the help guys I have a pretty good idea on how to proceed now!

Well, after working on it a little more, found out it is the early SMS-425. This was for the Round Hoods....so....may be trying to mount it on the 701. OH..... additionally, if anyone has pics of yhe engagement pedal setup I wpuld greatly appreciate it

It may take a few days to find you!

Wonder if it isn't a WorkHorse in disguise but think the 8-speed was 16hp. Garry

To make sliding the deck under the tractor even easier and to avoid scuffing the wheels and rollers on my rough asphalt driveway, I use four of these 6" dollies: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004YOKC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Just lift the corners of the deck and slip one under each gauge wheel and the outer two anti-scalp rollers. Makes it really easy to line it up.

http://www.navioneer.org/riprelay/The Navion Files/Delco_Remy_Generator_Regulators.pdf According to this book by Delco Remy, page 16. The L term works as such.... When load is increased on the L terminal the output of the generator is increased & this power is sent to the accessories pulling the load but not the battery. Hence providing extra power for the accessories with out over charging the battery. The 1445 bulb is a 2.7watt 14v bulb, it should be available at most automotive stores.

@squonk How did you photo shop Dino's gut on me in that photo? Where is Waldo?

1. park it on a level concrete or asphalt area with 5' of room on the right side 2. turn the wheels to the left 3. loosen the mule drive and take the deck drive belt off the deck pulley 4.raise the deck with the lift-a-matic 5. release the deck from the mid attach-a-matic 6. lower the lift-a-matic. 7. pull the deck out the right side. till the left deck carriage bar catches on the deck lift bar 8. you will have to lift the deck lift bar over the left deck carriage bar. 9. if the deck is not going back on, remove the belt from the PTO and unlatch the mule drive.... no need to take the belt off the mule drive. 20 minutes the first time , 5 minutes the 10th time

I'm getting ready to make myself one of those factory style weight brackets for mowing steep banks, but for garden plowing I made up this with suitcase weights gives it the big farm tractor look, Jeff.

Boy! did I get abused in this thread Ahh the price of fame! Here's the 2nd place winner's award. Frame it up and I'll sign it!

Well lots of guys would Jimbo.... case the Mrs wants to hang it over the mantle, wall paper the dog house, line the cat box...lots of uses!

Picked this up today and I'm very happy with it!! Early 1956 RJ35 with cast iron steering wheel. Down the road I will be tiring this into a 1955 RJ! Thanks Shawn!! What does everyone think? Definitely a project but definitely a restoreable one!

So here is a bracket I am making for a project. Gotta be the easiest I have ever made. Anybody care to guess what it is for? There is one guy here who knows what it's for so he is excluded from this contest and if he spills the beans no adult beverages for him for the whole '17 tractor show season! Contest winner gets the usual famous autographed pic of @squonk looking like a vagrant at the bus stop. By the way this is not an original design, I stole it from the aforementioned member who is in grave danger of having a very dry tractor show season. Also by the way most of us horse heads have needed this as it is ALWAYs missing, broken, busted or rotted out on a new to me tractor. If there is one it is usually affixed to tractor with baling wire, coat hanger or some other type of PO nonsense. I have been know to go years with out one but this is a special project. Starts out with these three simple pieces. A short length of 1 or 3/4 inch angle & two rubber isolation mounts. These mounts are pretty common and can be had just about anywhere online. I had a few on the shelf from bike builds where they are used quite a bit. They are 1/4-20 threads and can be had male/male, female/male, female/female. Round the corners of the angle off as much or little as desired. Sharp edges are to be avoided as well as lawsuits for a bad design and avoidance of workman's comps claims.

I've been reading countless posts here and elsewhere on the care of the 417-A. I'm concentrating at this point on oils and hydrostatic oil and filter and I'm just all turned around. Mostly the turned around part is because a mechanic I work with insists that if I change the hydrostatic fluid it will never work the same. He means in a bad way. I have some experience with this phenomenon as well and wonder what you guys think? I once had a Honda CRX that used 30W oil in the manual transmission. I had it changed out at Jiffy Lube at around 60,000 miles, and within 1000 miles the trans went. Bad throwout bearings and some other internal damage. I did some research and talked to some trans guys and they all said the new oil "shocked" the system. They claimed that the old oil had varnished up a bit in places and when the new oil hit it, it dissolved and changed clearances and such, just enough to cause trans failure. My new to me Wheel Horse 417-A seems pristine and the hour meter reads 595 hours. It has no visible oil leaks anywhere, runs like a top and doesn't smoke or show any signs of failure I can see. The fellow I got it from had just bought it and decided he wanted to stick to collecting Sears Surburban Tractors. He claimed the fellow that sold the WH to him was meticulous with upkeep and only used the tractor during the winter to push snow with a blade. Other than that I know nothing about how often the fluids were changed or what was used. Interestingly enough, this tractor has a missing right headlight bezel and I found a post I think on here that talks about a missing right headlight bezel. I wonder if this is the same 417-A? Anyway, I plan to use her for mowing in the warm months and pushing snow during the winter. I live in north central Illinois, where the temp gets down so sub zero temps during the winter and 90's during the summer. I was wondering what you guys do? What would you change the engine oil to? Straight 30W? Rotella Diesel Synthetic 10W30? Any other thoughts? Would you change the trans oil and if so with what? Should a phased approach be used, where I slowly change over the fluid over a season? Should I use Rotella HD? What do you do? Also the lights don't work. It seems that the wires are broken off on the bulb side, so I'll be hunting for bulbs. It sure would be great to find that bezel too. I can get a new pair for $40. Is that what you would do? Are there any resources for parts that I should know about? Thanks again, and sorry if these questions are asked over and over. It's been a long time since I've had to care for a garden tractor, and have never owned a hydrostatic drive ever. Ron

Heck, she paid for my account! I'm one of the lucky ones!

I bought one from him for my 753 and it was perfect!

Hood stand bracket and pump bracket welded on and fittings welded in. The sides are welded up. Now I have a lot of grinding to do before final assembly. Hood mounting bracket. Valve mounted. And I finally found a good place for the hydraulic filter.

Thanks for being the test subject and for this documentary thread. I need to do same to a couple of mine so this will be helpful to at least me. Not able to help with with your latest question but will post the pics I sent you so anyone reading this thread at later point has reference... Inside and outside pictures of the c channel upright that the valve attaches internally to. Note the two holes at slight diagonal.

I was going to suggest same. I think his his wife sells them. @buckrancher

Awesome job!!! Looks like it may be time for you to join the vender section here, selling deck spindles.

It looks like it might be primer tho? Hard to tell. Either way nice score & save!

I think Garry nailed it too. The "TWIN" decal, no height adjuster and the B&S engine all point to a Work Horse.

Yer my hero Richard..howdyoudothat??? In talking with Achto his tractor works with the key off and will still charge his cell thru the L term with the key switch off.... yah we gab alot but only about tractors! So the question still stands should I wire the L term up to the ig switch Batt term and let power flow when the ign switch is ON or in the ACC position? This switch does have the turn far CCW position that I assumes runs the Bat to ACC term. Kinda like a car. I probably should read thru this switch and see exactly what it does. By the way a quick ohm check of the bulb shows indeed is is toast, I get Taiwain 1445 off the bulb so is there a special bulb? Thanks for your help.

I took the liberty of eliminating the amp meter and added the Generator light for you.

Giving me the picture What can I do to get out of this

The 8363 uses the screw because it has a (float or detent) position - notice the Allen head screw that is where the spring and ball for the detent is - notice the 6629 is not drilled and tapped.

The 8363 does not have a snap ring as far as I know however the 6621 does - here is a picture...