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This situation opens up the opportunity for members to start manufacturing replacements themselves, as many of us have. The quantities will be small, much too small for the big boys to reproduce. Many of us may have special knowledges to do this, it does provide an opportunity to make a little extra money and "stay out of trouble" with the spouses. It does not take a big investment if we start small and conservative, utilizing just what we may have. Red Square and the Venders Section provides a great opportunity to advertise and we have a great community to help promote our replacements. From someone who has been happily doing this for 17 years now; start small, very small and listen to input. You're not going to get a lot of sales the next week, it takes time for people to start purchasing your items. Good Luck . . . .

Well the new to me 520 has pleasantly surprised me. No hidden issues and runs strong. Today after cutting it got another bath. I love getting on a clean machine.... specially in a neighborhood of cubs and craftsmen machines!

Boy! did I get abused in this thread Ahh the price of fame! Here's the 2nd place winner's award. Frame it up and I'll sign it!

I couldn't agree more. I've dealt with several of the vendors here and without exception every one is top notch.

What we have here is somewhat of a catch-22. I see posts all the time here on "what's a cheaper alternative to OEM parts", etc. Parts are by supply and demand. When demand is seemingly drying up (and when we buy aftermarket parts, the dealers are seeing a lack of demand), then the supply will dry up also. We all want to buy the least expensive part, which usually are the aftermarket parts, but we also want Toro to continue to make parts. Going aftermarket may save you a few bucks, but it also means that the manufacturer and the dealers aren't selling as many of the OEM parts, so they will discontinue the parts and the supply will go away. To them the demand isn't there, so why keep making parts that aren't in high demand. The other part of the problem is this, when the quality is high as it was with the Wheel Horses, things don't break, so parts aren't as needed as much if the parts break more often. The other part is, of course, companies aren't interested as much in making parts for 20-30 year machines as much as they're interested in selling new products.

Well I bought my first wheel horse back in November from a co worker. It is a 520h, and ever since I've been bitten. But that's not what the title said you may of told yourself. I bought a 1977 c160 auto this past weekend and I plan to do a restoration to it. I've been a lurker on the forum until now. Hopefully I can get some insight from you guys. I am a mechanic by trade so I feel pretty optimistic about the whole idea. I don't plan to break any speed records, and I do plan to do everything the right way.(at least my way😉) And some more pictures since I know everyone likes pictures

Hi all, I remember back into the mid 80's when my Dad had his first wheel horse...I wish I knew the model. That one eventually kept overheating so he purchased a brand new 314-H in 1998 and when he recently passed away, I took the tractor home and began using it around the yard for lugging heavy loads, and snow blowing. Seeing how much it coasts to get a comparable tractor these days, and the condition this one is currently in, I'm going to try to keep it forever. When I see the amount of guys on these forums with models as far back as the 60s ( I know things have changed since then) it just makes me want to hold on to this as long as I can. See everyone on the boards! -Chris-

thanks everybody!

Just remember if it's locked solid and you hit an immovable object there are a couple things that can happen like being flung up over/into the steering wheel or worse, bending the moldboard of the snow/dozer blade, twisting the plow frame ect, slow and easy does it and good luck, Jeff.

hey there been browsing the last couple of weeks finally decided to join. Recently acquired a C-121 and look forward to tinkering and being a member here!

Well gentlemen, rebuilding that carburetor solved the problem. She runs like brand new now and even with a load. I did change the oil also...we do think it had some gas in it. I've rebuilt single, double and 4 barrel carburetors before, but these Carter "N"s are way to easy to not do one yourself. Here are the pictures. Actually, I had bought a spare K181 8hp from @Shynon last year for parts, and it turns out to be a good thing I did. It also had a Carter "N" on it that looked pretty dirty, so I decided to rebuild both of them. That is why in the 1st picture, you are seeing double. Yep, that is all the parts in one of these carburetors. Here are some pictures of all the sides of this carb so it is easy to identify. The fuel idle screw (long one), the low idle screw (top right), the needle sut off valve and the brass fitting the shut off goes into. There are some holes in the long screw that you should poke a wire through along with some carb clean to make sure they are open. If you have a throttle that is hunting, one of these holes clogged could be the reason. Here is what comes in the kit. The needle shut off and brass fitting, the gasket for this brass fitting, the bar that holds the float in the carb, the gasket for the little bolt that holds the bowl on the carb, and the 2 gaskets that go between the carb and the bowl. The kits are Kohler and cost about $13 apiece on E-Bay. Here are the instructions, according to Mr. Chilton, Put in the brass piece that holds the seat...and the seat. Next is the float and check the measurement. Place the round gasket in the carb groove. Next is the bowl gasket baffle. Place bowl on and place and tighten holding bolt. Last, place the main fuel adjusting needle...gently turn in until it bottoms out...then back out 2 turns. Now the idle fuel adjusting needle...again, bottom out and then back out 1 1/4 turns. There you have it...mount on horse...start her up, and when warm do the final adjustments. Mine wanted to hunt when I 1st started it...turning out the main fuel adjusting needle about another 1/2 turn fixed that. 2 good carburetors.

Welcome to Red Square , nice to have someone else from Va. There are no dumb questions here just some so wise A$$ answers on occasion.

You're one of the best at it too Glen!

If you want to ensure that you have lights & lighter all of the time, I would run a fused wire from the battery side of the solenoid to those two items. I say a fused wire just because I prefer to have the protection. An in line fuse is what I use on mine. With the warning light, when power is not being produced by the Gen then it will back feed & act as a ground causing the light to come on. When the Gen produces power the back feed goes away and the light will go out. I usually fuse any accessories, (lights, lighter, etc). I do not fuse the ignition wire to the coil.

Jim if you're talking about that black part on the three point, that's a quick hitch... common for quick changing three point attachments. Saves time monkeying around with lining up the lift points.... just back up, hook it and go.

Mid mount blades do better at the kind of project you are describing. Pushing around relatively loose material dozer blades are fine . if you want to level harder stuff a mid mount or rear box blade will work better.

It takes more pressure to trip the blade if you move the top of the springs to the top holes in the blade. Garry

I went to get my building permit approved and was shot down a bit, government rules and regulations , anyways had to enlarge what I had already done so here's a shot with the eMax in action, Jeff.

Don't let the seat be a deal breaker, that can easily be changed....Rules is right 857 are the new round hoods..... I could be prejudiced tho!

Awe 1977 C160 the last of the truly great Wheel Horses.

1. park it on a level concrete or asphalt area with 5' of room on the right side 2. turn the wheels to the left 3. loosen the mule drive and take the deck drive belt off the deck pulley 4.raise the deck with the lift-a-matic 5. release the deck from the mid attach-a-matic 6. lower the lift-a-matic. 7. pull the deck out the right side. till the left deck carriage bar catches on the deck lift bar 8. you will have to lift the deck lift bar over the left deck carriage bar. 9. if the deck is not going back on, remove the belt from the PTO and unlatch the mule drive.... no need to take the belt off the mule drive. 20 minutes the first time , 5 minutes the 10th time

Sorry Mike ...guys just seemed like they wanted your pic rather than one of Glen's nice key chains .....go figure!?!?!

Pretty sure it replaces the OEM bracket to keep the muffler bearings in place. I just got one myself from Amazon. Coming from China...2-6 year delivery time .

This is on Dan's 1076 and I took this pic to plagurize his wiring & gas line routing but then spied the show battery hold in! I'll get some better pics up when my paint is dry. Will also put up some tips on how to weld new studs on that tray that always seem to be gone. I had made one out of flat steel like orginal but liked his better and took it off and put it on the 1257.... I told you fellas they are often missing! Trading tip here Dan Take a short piece of 3/8" gas line or tubeing and cut it to slip on the bottom end of the lift lever stop for a nice cushion. @Achto

Oh wow Scott that was really really close have to see what the judges say..... Ding .....we have a winner! Actually rjg was a little closer in battery hold IN not DOWN as Scott said but the judges rule battery securing device so Scott's the winner ....BUT since you live closer rjg854 and Michigan is such a beautiful state the judges are giving you the picture. @stevasaurus do you want to give him the one you got hanging in your bedroom or should I get him a new one? OH thaat was fun ....stay tuned for pictures of the finnished product. Hats off to @Achto for coming up with this & saving his tractor show circuit this year!

Plan on pulling that hub to see what's up, mine was cracked behind the right side bracket for the clutch lever. Cracked all the way around the two bolt fasteners. My belt shield tabs on the motor were cracked, and found cracks in the bottom of the tool box. Also found some nasty welding on the frame to tranny mount. I am sure her back was broke at one point. She has seen some hard use, but still going!

Here are some pics of the 1276 I picked up this weekend. Seems to run good, starts right up, blows just a little smoke right when it starts. Has a few minor issues, but overall seems pretty solid. Paid $400 for it and the deck.

I have my google set up that when anyone who posts a youtube video for "Wheel Horse" or "Wheelhorse", I get an email alert. Here is the one from today entitled, "Wheel Horse and My Dad". Wonder if it's anyone here? Here is one from a couple of days ago.

I'm thinking yes, it should have a fuel pump on it. My 76 B-80 did. Not that it wouldn't work on gravity but I'm wondering if the previous owner messed with it. Here's the pump. Your fuel line will be different because this is a 64 but the pump is in the same place.

I had a bottle of Carb Cleaner Gas Treatment that I soaked everything in. Used a wire tooth brush, rinsed with water and blew out with air hose. They are clean.

Yes matter of personal My personal preference is to not have my 60 yo back give out dragging heavy @$$ decks out from under tractors!

The iso mounts get cut in about half or whatever length you need. Chuck them up in your cordless and use a sharp utility knife to cut them. A couple of drops of motor oil and they will trim through slicker than cat scat on linoleum. Keep both halves to make another one. Again be careful with the knife, safety first cause I ain't sending my personal nurse over to poultice you. Tune in tomorrow for the next episode... Watching paint to dry!

I don't have experience of the Carlisle tru power tyre, but I would say that if you intend to use a plough in your garden, (say a 10" Brinley) go for 23x 8.50 -12 rears. Brand really doesn't make much difference, but width does.

Did you find and use the JB for Aluminum?? Inquiring minds need to know.

Especially if it will run at lower RPMs and not at high RPMs. Also check your fuel pump. Remove the fuel line from the carburetor and turn the engine over, you should get fairly steady spurts of gas out of the line.

Replace the condensor....the little shiny thingy with one wire to the coil. These go bad when warm over the years...40 or so in your case. About $5 bux

I have already found the bugger welds from PO, gonna grind it out, reweld, and add a gusset for strength. Have bare frame laying on the floor. Old girl has definately been a hard worker! This is what she looks like right now. We'll close, frame and wheels are off now as well.

Thanks everyone...especially for the compliments. This tractor means a lot to me since it was also the last one my dad owned! As for comparable, the same dealer that this WH came from now sells the Husqvarna line....we looked into the GT52XLSi or something similar, still didn't seem as well built as the 20 year old WH, but was in deed a garden tractor as opposed to the garbage the big dept stores sell. Coming in close to $4000, and almost $5000 for a JD that compared to the Husqvarna. I have a mild ticking sound in the Kohler and I'd much rather look into rebuilding it than buying a brand new garden tractor that still doesn't seem to match up to the WH! Not to mention there's just something about the look of the older tractors. It's like comparing a muscle car from the 60's to a Honda civic or something. haha

Its a toss up either way some guys just go the electric route but it is possible to rebuild them. I personally would rebuild it but I like to stay original. There are a couple of links in the parts supplier section to rebuild them.http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/56576-3-parts-suppliers/ You can also buy them new but they will be plastic which is definitely not for me.

"Seeing how much it coasts to get a comparable tractor these days" This got me thinking just what would be a "comparable tractor" From WHAT i SEE UNLESS YOU GO WITH KUBOTA or Husqvarna. and only top of the line have frames most have stamped pans.

Welcome, I am new myself, and everyone here has been a great help to me so far! Consider supporting the site with a 1 year membership, we'll worth it!

From what I could tell via the parts list, it looks like there is a belt drive under the engine to a jackshaft that goes up to the top of the front right in front of where the person sits. Then at the top of the front there is another belt drive that turns a shaft through the center of the chain driven steering mechanism. Then that shaft turns a gearbox which turns that chain drive for the wheel... At least I think that's how it works. Didn't look at it long enough to work out the variable speed part. I assume variable pulleys up top. Sure makes me appreciate the wheel horses, however, that would be seriously maneuverable.

I "intended" to give it a clean up and replace the wiring, and one thing led to another, and I think I got a little carried away!

Yep, actually the owner has an original seat pan, but no cushion, but am not a big fan of the look of the flat seat, but then again, have not set on one either. My 1276 has an aftermarket seat, and it is soooo comfy, I doubt I will change it. I really like the look of the mid to late 60's tractors the best. Actually I know where there is a really good deal on a clean 69/70 Raider 10 with a Tecumseh engine that has a bad starter. I might wind up picking it up if can get him down a little more. Owner is asking $300, but I can probably get it for $250. Looks clean except the starter and leaking axle seal.

to the If you need a mule drive with two pulleys, We got em.

I have used Lacquer thinner for years to clean all the carbs I've rebuilt Brian

Them short frame, square hoods... are quickly becoming the new round hoods.

Here are some photos of the c160 that I found for sale.

No, they're mostly for Category 1, 2, etc., but not for Category "0". But I did do a 3D model and drawing for a Category "0" quick hitch from a buddy of mine's original design. iMatch_DWG_03212013.pdf

Don't know if it will work in your situation, but a friend of mine used J B Weld on an old engine block to patch cracks in the block and put it in a home built dragster and took it to Bonneville salt flats to try for a world record at 200 mph in the class that he entered...I helped him get the car running and he took it, but never got over 180mph.. engine never failed tho...it was a four cylinder cast iron block from the 1930's...It was hard for me to believe that about using the J B Weld, but it worked fine...might not on aluminum - don't know..