Leaderboard

Just picked up this 417-8. Plan on tearing it down, cleaning it up, and painting it.

I was going to add something to this thread........................but I forgot what it was. It was important too...dang it.

Well as some of you know this is my last true build form the frame up. I hope you enjoy the video.

Wait until you guys hit the late 60's , you make notes on stuff lose the notes , walk in to your work shop and have not idea of what you wanted to or why and my all time favorite ( it happens a lot ) write down a list of things you need to buy , walk into where you are shopping , can not find the list. Buy a bunch of stuff which you hope was on the list. Get the "stare " about losing the list only to find it 3 hours later in your shirt pocket.

Now that I'm able to post more pics, here are some from the sickle I did last month.

Finally got a new shed! Thanks to T-Mo, who posted about his shed, I went with the same company. Derksen sheds. http://www.derksenbuildings.com/ I bought a 12'x24' side lofted building with 8' walls. I thought a was getting a color close to my shop, but I see I really need to paint the shop now. Here is another pic or 2. Ya, its been raining! Can't wait till it dries up and I can fix the grass I tore up and get things in order. I looks pretty crappy right now, but it will get better soon. Randy

So last year I bought a transmission for my dads 502 from a guy on facebook. Afterwords i needed a hitch for it. I knew we had one. Problem is where was it we have 4 sheds where it could be and 2 leantos. I cleaned out one shed a bit and nothing and i could of swore thats where it was. i hunted for 2 weeks for it. and i gave up looking for it. well this past weekend i was redoing my sheds floor so i wanted to organize my shed. so i thought well ill pull 2 cabinates out of parts shed. unloading the one cabinat look what i found. i went through that cabinat over and over thing was i didnt pull out gas tanks. it was behind them lol. now dads 502 will have both hitches on it.

not sure why but pics I have shrink real low but anyway the ornament is off from a 1962 mercury monterey

That's when you leave and go back to the house, remember what it was, go back out to the shed and forget what it was you went out there for because you got sidetracked on the way.

Got the 753 running this evening, I didn't get it driving yet because I have to get a belt guard and gear oil but the engine runs great, started up third pull and idles very clean.

Well from those two pictures someone's on the right lines, a little more detail and I'll share, are farmers really that black and white? when I took the pics I wasn't thinking about what was in the background, so l have to jump about a bit..you lot with your sharp eyes. Here's a few more, l'm pretty sure there are big enough clues to give it away....

When I have issues like, I usually find what ever it was after I buy a different one.

Happens to me too, will find what I was looking for 3 days later while looking for something else, I chalk it up to a sub-paragraph of Murphy's Law... The lost item loop.

If you have a way to check battery voltage, see how far the volts are dropping when you try to start the engine. If they drop below 10v, your battery is probably bad. It could also be a bad connection some place. Clean all of the connections between the battery and the starter ( including any switches & relays )and make sure that they are all tight.

Dennis, To your point, yes all batteries degrade with time, it's inevitable. One of the keys to long battery life is keep the battery as close as possible to it's recommended float voltage, for the sake of this discussion a flooded lead acid battery would have a float voltage of 13.4 volts, and avoiding extended discharges below 12.6 volts, the point at which sulfation begins. In the case of leaving the key on, I think I can safely say that we have all done it. If it's been left on all winter you will probably never recover the capacity of the battery due to sulfate crystallization (hard sulfation). If left on overnight a trickle charge over the course of several days will usually bring it back to life. On a side note, battery tenders are not created equal, you usually get what you pay for, do your research before laying down your hard earned money. Another topic is "smart chargers", most of which will not charge a discharged battery. This is when it's nice to have an analog 1 amp battery charger to raise the voltage to the point that the "smart charger" recognizes the battery and completes the charge. I personally use an old Schumacher 2-10-50 charger to which I've added filter capacitors and a 35 amp 15kHz pulse width modulator on the output but that is another story. Sorry for the rambling and hope some of this info is helpful.

I agree as I used to be in the Bigger-is-Better bandwagon for battery CCA. But I have found that the key is using a battery tender to maintain the charge and not allow the sulfation to deteriorate the plates. A good battery tender may cost as much as a battery but is amortized over the years. I have also found a solar panel that is sold to charge batteries to be beneficial for the tractors outside. But you do need to get the correct recommended size as a twin requires a larger battery than a single.

Nice stable. And it is great you got pictures of the floor....once those horses start to breed, you may never see the floor again.

I know it's not high tech Duke, but here is my REDNECK heater. It does keep the cab (measured at the windshield) 30-35 degrees above outside temp. The right leg is a few clicks warmer.

YIIIKES!!! Oh well, at least you are an equal opportunity collector. And we all love collectors because most of us are. Jim

Nope ... whole tractor is shot .....I better come get it... Naww just kidding ! Sparkeye's got it

UUUHHHMMM....There's this thing about green and yellow tractors on this site...you're gonna need to provide some kinda protective glasses for us if you keep showing pictures of that stuff... Red, black and white are acceptable colors for tractors among refined WH gentlemen (and ladies)...

Welllll seems my problem was a bad torque wrench. Got me another and everything goes together well and torqued to spec. Just hoping my over torque didn't damage anything. Thanks for every ones input. As usual this is the best site for WH info AND expertise. Thanks guys.

i do that already. i even forget what i am doing ill walk intro shed and ask myself why did i come in here again lol

Is a 1962 Suburban 400 right? shouldn't the model be 402 ?

" D O N ' T F O R G E T T O D R I N K Y O U R O V A L T I N E " !

Ahh yes, organized chaos. Sounds a lil like my shop. Sept I can't always remember.

With any electrical problem you should start by cleaning and tightening all electrical connections including grounds. If this didn't change your results then have the battery load tested.

The farmer across the road from my parent's farm had a workshop that was a sight to behold, everything was a mess. On occasion I would need to barrow something and he would pick it out of the clutter without hesitation; when I returned it he would toss it wherever it landed. You could go back a month later and ask Bob for that item and he would retrieve it as if he had cataloged the location in his mind; perhaps he had!

Tis a small world Jeff. My Mother still lives in Cumberland today. After high school, I started my college studies at the WVU local campus in Keyser WVa. While still living in Wellersburg, Pa, at the time, I commuted thru Cumberland, Md. to Keyser, WVa. every day ....about 20 mile. When I was about 10 years old, we built a new stone home about half way up the mountain above Wellersburg where I experienced many runaway truck accidents. Our house was right at the drivers decision point ....ditch the truck or try to ride it out to the bottom. The experienced ones bailed out and ditched the truck into the woods. One of the more memorable ones involved a Heinz Food truck from Pittsburg. My dad was a scavenger and we had a pantry full of all 57 varieties of mustard, ketchup, and pickle relish that lasted for years.

The red/geen felts are nice in that I am sure which terminal I am putting the charger on. Tthe cast in black + and - on the case are getting harder to see

It was prolly the RUSSIANS!

Terminal grease works great!

Jim, I use them on my top post car batteries but not the garden tractor batteries, it does help and also the terminal grease or dielectric grease on the actual connections helps keep the corrosion at bay, Jeff.

Nope, made my own!

Just my opinion, but if you're going to do the conversion to battery/points ignition, you should upgrade to the 15 amp stator and regulator. Used stators and regulators are easy to find and not that expensive. The 15 amp system will give you more capacity if adding additional electrical components to the tractor at a later date.

That is indeed the thread 953nut is referencing. The relative scarcity of the breakerless parts will leave you most likely spending same or more than you would for conversion. Although there are proponents on the forum for using the original set up. But the electronic parts even if found new are very old. That era electronics was not as robust as today's designs. Spontaneous or arbitrary failure is very real possibility. Just depends on what you want out of the tractor once it's running.

Time to tighten the tension on the pto lever....but before you do that I would pull the clutch bell and check it and the clutch face for scoring, then give the inside a smear of hi speed bearing grease and re-assemble. Mike....

Wish i could say its my first tractor but....

Agree...It only gets worse...

The attachment list shows the ST-326 as compatible with the 655 Garry

Is his name Trump?

You mean to say I get to do my late 60's over again, I think I remember them!

Years ago a truck driver fell asleep and went off the road and went thru an Amish house. In one side and out the other. Left a big hole but the walls and roof stayed up. About 10 years after that an Amish fellow came into the Napa store I was working at. He paid with a check and I read the check. The address was about the same location of that house. I asked him about it and he says, " That was my house. I was sleeping on my couch and awoke to a tractor trailer going thru my living room! "

OK Guys, the bids are in. 4-5 guys bid it up to $1000, and it appeared it would be sold, then #7208 jumped in and ran it up to $1400 and left it go for $1450. This same rig sold here 3 years ago for $3600, and was sold again 2 years ago for $1800, and now for $1450. Maybe next year. The winner...the auctioneer that sold it three times and made close to 2 grand.

1960 model 400

My '79 CJ-5 in winter mode Summer mode Let's keep these Jeeps going, like our Wheel Horses! C-85

Maybe Richard @953 nut would want this one:

Neighbors were asking, "When's that TIGman going to take his Stallion out and clean his property up?" All know. "That Horse can handle any chore."

So I just got done assembling the transmission. Everything went together nicely. The bew bronze bearings are in. I chopped up an extra $2 harbor freight hammer I had to get the axle tube bearings all the way seated. I ground the hammer face down flat so the chamfer wouldn't flare the bearing outward. Worked pretty well. The hone worked well, but I'm with you steve, I'm too impatient to do that again. It took about an hour to get all 4 to fit nicely. My EE6 bearings and the unground bearings went in without a hassle. And the thrust washer seems to be doing its job. It lifted the bearing up on the mushroom side just enough to clear the cluster gear bearing on the same side.. so no more grinding on that! I dry fit it before final assembly and everything fit nicely. I did, however have to grind down some of the machinist's work on the hooby dooby on the mushroom side. The mushroom gear was touching it ever so slightly. I told him he could build it up a bit more on the left side but not the right because of that gear... he got the sides confused. No biggy though. I dressed the gaskets, tapped in some new seals on the input shaft and brake shaft, and got the trans put back together. **TADA** All seems well with one exception. I dry fit this thing 6-7 times when honing the bearings and everything turned nicely. It even turned nicely when I dry fit it before installing the gaskets (I torqued side plates to about 7 ft lbs). Now that I have the gaskets dressed and installed and torqued all the way down things seem a little bound up. It has to be the bearings. The gears are turning smoothly and I don't hear or feel any gears rubbing or ginding against anything. To give you an idea of the amount of force necessary to turn the trans while it's in gear... I put the pully back on the input shaft to give me some leverage and I can turn it in all 4 gears with slight force. But I can not turn it by hand without the pully. My intuition tells me that I will probably be okay with it like this. It may just take a ride or two to let those bronze bearings wear in. But I'd like some opinions before I move on to painting. Any thoughts? And yes, I'm going to paint everything in. I know this may not be the popular approach, or the easiest to deal with if I have an issue down the road. But I do it because it was painted after assembly originally. Well, I can at least say with certainty that it was painted like this before I began the restoration. So, in the interest of maintaining it's originality! And I personally really like the way it looks.

Because I had had spinal fusion surgery 7 months earlier, I stayed at the Hampton Inn Gettysburg last year, which is only about 15 minutes away. Past years I have camped on site, and plan to do so again this year.