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Well it is green but it is not an off brand tractor rather a Polaris Ranger 2011 EV. All electric 30hp motor. I like this unit a lot. It is a 2011 with 199 hours.

The 551 is nearly ready for spring. Here's the before and after.

PLEASE put one of these on:

Along with my wheelchair project been throwing around the same idea ... l have a old hydro 18hp BS vert.twin mower (Ranchking or MTD) . Thinking of stuffing the hydro and engine in it . I know there would have some major metal fab to get the engine in but exhaust pipes coming out on each side would be along with the ease of hydro drive .

C'mon now Steve.... That is the LAST model you want for your bucket list? Once you find a 754 if I know you there will ALWAYS be a bucket list tractor....

I saw it also and recorded it. I believe it was in Portland, Maine. ==> Wheel Horse at 00:24

While watching the National News this evening, they were showing all the snow in the North-East. It was a quick shot, but I saw a Wheel Horse with a snow plow pushing snow! Maybe someone on Red Square just had their 15 (seconds) of fame!

Well, it is typical to have the auto trans units to have seal leaks after sitting outside and being 45 years old. Pulling the seals on one Horse went fine by using one of these "church keys" pictured here and in the link below.. The other Horse just would not give them up as the church key was too thin and kept bending when tapped with a hammer https://www.google.com/search?q=paint+can+opener&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi874TAlJDSAhXFRSYKHXi9Al0QsAQIrQE&biw=1177&bih=666 The trouble, is they are not strong enough for the stubborn ones.. First, cut a groove in a 5/16 or so Allen wrench long leg. Cut the groove with a mini grinder with a decently new wheel and quench it in oil if it starts getting hot while cutting. Then grind the profile that you see on the end of the paint can opener illustration. You have to leave a little more meat on your homemade seal puller, but be sure to generously round off the underside so it slips in the area of the seal that is just rubber. The hook portion needs to be pretty tight to the inside lip of the bearing lip to keep from tearing out the lip radius. I took the time to use a fine grit flap grinding wheel to really polish up the end of the seal puller so it would not scratch up the shaft.in the critical seal area When you use it, the groove you cut might bend the seal lip, but that is ok. If you made it correctly, all the pulling will happen higher up right where the lip bends internally. I hope i have written this well enough to state that all the force is applied inside the seal and nothing ever touches the bore of the axle housing.The fact that you used an Allen wrench is helpful in that the flat of the wrench keeps it square with everything and when you tap the short leg [or L part of the wrench] everything stays square and the tool pulls evenly. The force of the blow actually keeps the tool tight to the shaft and helps keep it square. The tough steel used on an Allen wrench is perfect for this application, but safety glasses are not a bad idea. After messing with the above pictured can opener above for maybe an hour yesterday. Ten minutes with the grinder making this tool and five more with tapping and out she came. When you insert the tool and tap it into the rubber, the metal capture ring flares out. After doing the first two, i discovered that it is best to just go around the metal ring and flaring the whole thing and then tapping it out. The tool rests tight against the shaft and makes a straight pull. That is why it works so well. You can see how rough the seal metal ring looks after pulling. it makes you nervous until you pull a few .

Was there a metal tab hook on the top of the motor. if so it gets the long bolt

If I remember right there should be two longer bolts to go where the S/G bracket sits...someone correct me if I am wrong.... according to the missus I usually am!

T.O. never under estimate the old Kohler i have pulled three wheel horses with Kohler engines out of the scrap and all three with a little time have run well. The only one that I gave up on had a Onan. Update. Had a little time before my shift and the super C runs and all the hydro works maybe have to keep it for snow blowing

I have been contemplating going after this C-175. It's down one cylinder according to the ad, but remembering @bowtieguy C-175 repowered with the 22 hp Predator engine has me thinking.

4:00 AM to 6:30 AM. Plow area, just a trace, some small drifts. Blow back what I plowed. 8 degrees, no wind, fresh and clean air. 1/2 gallon gas for both .

Another 8" of snow yesterday. Couldn't wait to get home and clear it. I used the 3/15 first, i have found in deeper heavy snow and going up hill the tractor performed-best in 2nd low range. First high slipped a bit going up the grade even with the chains and weight. I then widen the street in front of my house with the 3/12 dozer blade. Prior to that I got the wife's pathfinder stuck in the driveway, I got my 4Runner out at 5am in 2 wheel drive, thought I'd have no problem with that in all wheel. I was wrong and have another reason to dislike it! I was gonna just drag it out but good luck finding a tow hook on one of these

There are probably 2 notable issues with the "Big D" line-up -- The Sundstrand hydro drive and the steering box. with the tranny being the biggest. And I'm sure you know about other typical things to check --- The drive is very beefy and is a good unit --- when its not worn! and with the ages of these models they can be just that, worn. If the tractor runs/drives butt it up against a tree and apply power and see if the wheels will throw a rooster tail of dirt - check reverse for good movement. Parts for it are getting more and more scarce for them and repair is quite an undertaking, but there are lots of info and help for that here on the forum. The steering is prone to get a lot of slop in the box and even blow out the steer box (its called a Ross box) While a bit of a pain to remove, the repair is relatively simple. Theres a bit of a love/hate for the D's Some love them (me) and some think they are the ugliest of the horses! I have 3 of them and would fight a bear if somebody tries to take em away!!

Starter was frozen, cant repair just pondering a repower vs finding out the motor burns oil like crazy and being money into a lost cause. And i did buy it for the steering wheel..... but hmyou know how that goes jim.

Well, call me crazy but here is what i decided to do with the "Jay Bee" muffler on the Electro 12. It was not bought for it but it needed one so I decided to use it. There is no room in front of engine and behind hood for it. From the air filter to the hood everything interferes.If the muffler's body was about 3" shorter then with some clever plumbing it would work but still be tight. If hood was as wide on bottom as on top even better, but it is what it is on this model. When I got this tractor from Ken B. it had a long muffler mounted horizontally which is the best way for this model as you can see on first photo. The only draw back was that the outlet on long muffler was too close to operator and one winds up having some exhaust on the face area. So based on how it was then I mounted this one also horizontally. Since it has the outlet on the side with the long pipe exhaust is directed much lower than before. No interference with PTO or implement belt changes. I will also probably fabricate an extension and have it directly under foot board aimed away from tractor. Fabricated metal bracket to attach to mufflers bracket for additional support . The Electro was always a noisy tractor specially at full throttle. Although still a bit noisy compared to others now one notices engine noise rather than muffler. At idle it is very quite and at full throttle it has a nice "throaty" sound. Sounds really solid unlike before. The original muffler fell apart inside with the loose baffles actually plugging the exhaust outlet and I bought another one like it for about $35.00 only to have exactly the same thing happen after one year. This muffler is heavy at 3Lbs 9-1/2ounces compared to a tall stack muffler with the flap on top which is only 3Lbs 1-1/4 ounces. It should last forever now.

The 2 different input pulleys are because older tractors use small (2" +/-) engine pulleys. the Charger Electro Raider tractors had 4 " (+/-) engine pulleys.

Right...thanks Paul and Jim. Do not use that puller on that hub...it will break it. I bought my hardware from TSC, they sell their bolts, etc. by the pound. That puller should work on the brake drum though. Close that case up a little to get some room for the arms to catch. Take a wire wheel, file or Emory cloth to clean up the part of the shaft that does stick out. You could use a little heat on the brake drum and then melt some candle wax on it. The wax gets drawn in and works like penetrating oil. On my hub puller, you can tighten up the 1" bolt and then tighten up the 5/16" bolts a little at a time (working your way around). You may have to loosen everything and readjust as it comes off. My picture of that hub puller...I was using that on a 3 hole hub. Make sure you buy the 5 bolts and use all 5 when doing the puller thingy. It will work.

Thanks Jim, but this is a later K241, no S&G. No hook, but that sounds right. The hole on the corner near the intake valve is a thru hole probably going to put it there.

thank you. i am glad to help

@Dnorth I got your PM...going to answer here so this will help others and/or others may have another option. For the brake drum...1st, measure the diameter of the drum and the shaft size, I have an extra brake drum if the shaft and diameter are the same size. Take a real good look at that shaft...did you take of the "C" clip that holds it on. A 2' bar behind the drum and a puller like this...should work. As far as the hub...take your other hub and make a puller like this out of it...it will take a hub off... That is a 1" bolt with 1" washers and nut for the center. The other bolts are 5/16 with nuts and washers so as not to mess up the threads in the hub.

I'd keep it too.Super C's are a pretty desirable tractor.Have fun with your new toy.

I had a 110 I restored a while back... Super fun tractor and the variable drive is fun to use. Looks like you got a nice one!

Thanks Mark. It's great to be back. I watched many Wheel Horse videos on you tube while in the nursing facility. That helped me keep going somewhat. I just kept looking ahead and looking forward for the day to come that I'd be able to do the things that I enjoyed doing again. I believe if I hadn't had a positive outlook and things to look forward to, I probably wouldn't have made it. And, I'm still keeping that attitude. I plan on beating this one way or another. Thanks again!

Wow ,there is some serious modifications by previous owner , I'm sure that you have it looking like an original in no time Ewan, good luck with it

Frame and blade are coated. This was the 1st and 2nd coat. Just finished applying the 3rd and final coat a little bit ago.

Been meaning to congratulate you you on your epic find !!! DIBS... If nobody called it Did I beat Craig to it

Nice cab... Is that a heat collector on the right side? Is the belt guard vented? I just captured the heat behind the PTO and mine stays 30F warmer than outside temp.

Over the last few years I've added a couple more horses ('78 C-161 & '83 C-145) to the stable but they both were in need of new mufflers as well as a lot of TLC. A friend and fellow RS member was in the same situation with his little collection. After searching all the usual online sites and keeping a close eye on CL and here on RS for used mufflers, it seemed a losing battle. The new ones were just too expensive ($230-$300) and the used were almost non-existent, and if you did find one of them they were pretty pricey AND pretty used. We knew we wanted original equipment style. Something tucked under the hood and was not going to be so loud as to upset the neighbors or their dogs!!! With that in mind, we got together with a local custom exhaust manufacturer and showed him the factory mufflers and pipes from my '76 B-100 and my friend's '79 C-160 and asked him if he could duplicate that type system. He said he had never worked on anything that small but would give it a go. After three or four prototypes we finally got a final product that was well built and looked and sounded the way it should. The muffler is aluminized steel and has internal baffles. The exhaust pipe is made of 16 gauge aluminized steel also. The muffler has a tab welded on the lower side so it can be used on engines with or without the cradle mount. For us, it was well worth the time and effort to get the mufflers we wanted at an affordable price, and just a few bucks more than a used one!!! We now have O.E. Style mufflers that will work on my 10hp, 14hp and 16hp and also my friends 12hp and 16hp Kohler engines and a few extras on the shelf. I've included some pictures. Third pic is on my C-145, forth pic is on the C-161 and the last pic is of the plumbing.

This is my new hitch that I had Tom the hitch guy custom fab up for me. It's strong adjustable and looks good. Can't wait to get it and install it. Thank you again Tom.

Looking great!

I could tap holes.......just drill the signs........that might be a good idea !!!!

Be real careful with that puller you WILL break the hub. Sorry there is no easy way other than what Steve showed. Do not hammer on it, there is a retaining ring on the inside of the differential that hold s the axle in, you will break off. Most of us have a few hubs laying around with shot keyways. Might be a member willing to send you one for shipping cost.

two arm pullers can break the hub. Also you will notice on the older hubs with the web design for each bolt hole it is not possible to get both arms of the puller on a thick part. Steve's idea of using another hub is best

Thanks for the compliment 953 nut! Here is a link to the cable: http://www.wheelhorseman1000.com/product-p/repro-lift-cable-2814.htm

Well jellyghost every place has different rules but the yard i work for you just drive in check into the office and then you can walk around and shop all you want. Does anyone know if you need anything special to run all of my attachments from my 3 series tractors with this one.

Well folks, Our transmission cleanup is complete except for the differential. Taking a closer look at the axles we found damage!! See pictures below. (someone pointed out in an earlier thread that this can occur.) The outer ring of the bearing put in some shallow grooving - the axle is ok where the needles themselves had been running. Do I need to replace the axle?! Or is it ok since, I assume, the new needles will run on the area between the damage caused by the old bearing? Thanks for the much needed advice.

Hi Eric- I've got about the same situation. I've got less grass to cut (probably .75 acres) and a 700' driveway to keep clear of snow in winter. I've also got a 24HP Yanmar diesel with loader and box blade for the 'big' jobs. I found a 520H with 60" deck, 700 hours, and snow plow for $1000 about 2 years ago. I'm very pleased with it. It does a fine job mowing and handles the snow duties with joy. I added a tall-chute snow blower which has no problem keeping the driveway clear. I know nothing about the Xi, though I will say I wish the 520 were faster in both forward and reverse. A little extra speed for plowing snow and also when cutting grass would be nice. Even with the wide deck there's plenty of power to mow faster. My yard has lots of obstacles so higher speed isn't that big a deal. If the 520 is in good shape, I'm sure it will meet your needs. I like that implements aren't that hard to find. It is a bit thirsty but I really do like that it's gas. It starts right up in winter where as my 'big' tractor needs to be plugged in. Not the 520.

This is what the hour meters look like on the Xi series see pics...and as far as the 268h it's a really good "lawn" tractor (the forebearer of the Xi series "lawn and garden" tractors from the classics like the 520h) it has a vertical shaft engine vs the horizontal shaft and attachments/implements are rare/hard to find as well as the Xi series vs the classics(520h) if you had the money the package deal is well worth it vs buying it separately, then flipping what you don't want/need, I have 3 520H's all have under 800hrs (1 bought new), 1 520Xi and it does turn tighter than the other 3 (but limited attachments) and a 523Dxi (diesel) with a bad engine, I'm still kinda partial to my classics but only had the Xi's for a limited time, and a foot pedal motion control conversion kit can be had for the 520H like the Xi's, and Forest Road hit the high points there, Jeff.

It wouldn't take much to graft that blower on to your horse!

Well these may not be the best but they sure move some snow. On Friday with the no name I was plowing the street to keep it open with it because the city always plows side streets last. We have elderly people on this st. So I always try and keep it clear. What else am I going to do in a snow storm. We got over a foot on Friday. I hope you enjoy the vid.

Getting ready to start my LR resto and thought it would be nice to have a way to lift the wheels off of the ground. After thinking about several ideas like lift tables, hoists, etc I decided to keep it simple (and cheap). I had an extra 2x6 from a job and a piece of black pipe. This is what I came up with.......raises either end up 4 inches with a push of the handle and works great.

I have a complete rear end if you're interested (I have just the pump also) I need to travel to Des Moines in the next 2 to 4 weeks if you're interested I could meet you there with it.

and glad to have you here Jody! Always nice to see others around the world enjoying their Wheel Horse tractors.

Better check the show rules...I'm thinking... not without pre approval from the WHCC first. http://www.wheelhorsecc.com/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=26

About a dozen members of our local club, the South Jersey Gas Engine Club, are going up on Saturday. Went last year and really enjoyed it.