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So besides a little engine refreshing, I managed to put on wheel weights that I painted and threw on behind the wheels. Also put on the hubcaps finally.

This video was taken back in oct 2015 . I was amazed what that little 4hp kohler could do ! Think spring... https://youtu.be/pSnWliSydIU

I'm sure that the timing is a bit advanced. I need to pull the shroud to locate and hi light the timing mark. As tall as the stack is, I was surprised to see a flame at the tip. Mark.

They're mine, hence the recycled pictures and descriptions. I want them gone. I'll have to check, but I think I set these up as an auction. I'm losing money on each of them at the opening bid, but that's not really a big deal at this point. I just want the space back. Shipping can be an option if someone is interested. I can palletize (might take me a while) and either have picked up at work loading dock or dropped at a Fastenal store. But buyer needs to do all the legwork. The 520H/48 is actually already palletized (see pic). Hopefully they go. Steve

I thought i'd post the restoration of my Cub Cadet 70 which is very rare in the UK, I finished her last year. I was very happy when I won the auction but a massive task was ahead of me, it was nice to get a tractor that came with all of the original manuals and although someone had badly painted her at some point it was in an original condition, complete condition. Here is how I got her One of the first jobs was fixing the steering box which didn't work very well. We could see straight away why, as parts are expensive to import to the UK we tried to fix everything we could. My dad (meadowfield) fixed the steering box using bicycle headset parts and the steering box works exceptionally now. Since the steering box had been fixed I went on to refurbishing the steering wheel. First I used a dremel to remove all the rust and also drilled small holes into the plastic so that the epoxy putty i used would hold. I was very happy and its not noticeable now. Below is how she was before i stripped her down. Rust was very bad as you can see. After years of use and no way of greasing the axle the pin had seized solid, we tried many methods to remove it but had to resort to drilling out the pin, when reassembling the axle i added a grease nipple and we turned a groove in the pin. We then worked on removing all the bad metal and fabricating new pieces. \ I like to do restorations properly and so I sandblasted 99% of the parts to remove all the rust. Some one had smashed the hood stand to but a larger battery in so we had to fix that as well. That was then sandblasted. After many hours of repair and sandblasting it was time to etch prime the parts and paint the parts. I managed to save the original rear tyres which was good. Every part was painted separately and then i assembled for the last coats. The hood was littered with rust holes and pitts but in an effort to keep the originality the holes were welded up and lots of filler was required. Back on all 4 wheels The light knob was missing so from a picture I turned one on the lathe. After a few more bits and pieces and decals from my dad she was finished. Here I am on the first test drive! I managed to save the original number plates which i was very happy with. This has been my most favourite restoration i have done so far and i have learnt many skills including painting with a spray gun, (i did all the painting myself) all these skills will be helpful with my up and coming RJ 58 restoration

Finally got the Honda Horse dialed in! Even with the factory 6:1 gear reduction on the G300, this thing plows perfectly! Just it will actually plow at an idle in 3rd gear. Doesn't even sputter! Can't wait to hook the dozer blade up to see what it can push

Mine isn't cored out. I wanted it as quiet as I could get it. The muffler is from a 2015 Road King. Best of all, it was free. I'll try to get a video at night soon. Mark.

Just waiting for decals noeNoe

I would err on the side of caution Mike and go with the weather guy" 18" figure and just be ready with the equipment fueled up.

Hello all. Today it was ok enough outside to go out in the shed and replace one of the many things I bought from fleabay. I decided to replace the head gasket, (all original, never taken off.) I was really nervous, but surprisingly all 9 bolts came right off no problem. Also, I've definately seen worse. For 50 years old, this thing really surprised me. I also replaced the front breather cover filter and gaskets. Here's a couple before and after pics.

Gotta love it...night time plowing!

1964 953 and 1054 snowthrower 1965-66 953 1054 and 1054A snowthrower They brought out a kit to change the ST-375 to one that would fit the long frame tractors which is what the C-Series are but the C-Series has a front quick hitch. The long frame models prior to the C-Series did not have the front quick hitch unless it was added as an option later on. You can see the differences in this bulletin. Belt widths were 1/2" for these where later models used a 5/8". Belt length for the 953, 1054 and 1054A was different. Garry Did not answer your blade question - have had snowthrower on the brain lately.

That's the plan Jim....fill up my fuel tanks and my 4x4 truck. Mike......

They're incredible little machines... nothing better than seeing 'em still being worked.

Snow blowers were built to capture and direct the snow while the blower moves it. You NEED a second with a snow blade on it.

Well I found a 312-8 locally yesterday in good shape so I went to look at it with the wife. Long story short she dropped me off and I drove it 4 miles back home. It is a strong runner and only took almost an hour to get home after a few short cuts through the town park. The picture of her at home under the deck till I can get her inside.

Eastern PA, didn't push snow ... yet! Forecast soooooo, 416-8 and the 520-8 dressed. Wheel weights, chains, 48" blades. The Horses are happily excited. What's with that?

Electrical lock nuts come in steel and aluminum, you may need to go to an electrical sippl house to find the steel ones. I think I shared a picture of mine and contributed to @Hacksawhero123 delinquency!

to red square............. The first part sounds like a weak fuel pump - tank is under the seat and it takes a bit to get the fuel to the carb - had the same problem and put an electric pump on...problem solved..however...it could be something else entirely..others will chime in.. it won't turn over if the safety switches aren't made - make sure the pto is disengaged when starting ( has a seat switch too )

YUK!!!

A soft wire wheel on a cordless drill, brake cleaner, and a microfiber cloth. Used the kohler manual for torque spec and sequence. I really thought those bolts would give me a hard time I was prepared for the worse, but it was literally like butter. Will do, that actually slipped my mind about the retorque lol. I got the carb off and few other things too that I gotta take care of.

Remember to redo the torque on the head bolts after it has run for an hour or so.

Craig says it's OK.....if he was displaying a SMV sign.

You should be reading about 14.4 VDC. Not sure why you see VAC, but some some simple rectifiers can put out a pulsed signal that will look like VAC to some meters. Just a thought. For the Light Bulbs. The 520H bulbs are no. PAR36. There are LED bulbs available. See superbrightleds.com

1/2-13 x 2 inches for the bolts.

We need more details Wildman.

Still 65 F here this morning, but I just saw one forecast for 8-12" starting in 12 hours go figger ? I did fill the tanks, check the oil, and hook up the chargers on the snow team.

Thanks for posting the video. I embedded the video for you.

Napa RuGLYDE will clean and refresh the rubber, scrub them first and then apply this stuff and bag them up for a week and let it soak in.

Don't do that if you want snow. Sure-fire way to scare it off!

amazing little engine

Wow, 70 F here today, so I was able to work outside.

A case of "don't try to reinvent the wheel" (horse) for sure! Have blown heavy snow with our C-81 for years... Our C-141 has more power but the 81 is still my favorite.

Unless you have absolutely nothing else to do,why bother?? Both are great tractors just the way they are.Just my opinion.

Well tires are on and new exhaust made it's not quite finished in the picts

Years ago dad used to run a "stack" made from an old vacuum cleaner chrome tube on the CC original Kohler 7hp (no wonder he's deaf now), anyways after working it hard mowing it would blow flames too, we ran it that way for years till it finally dropped a valve, can't say it was the unbaffled straight exhaust but I'm sure it didn't help it, it's now on engine #3 since he bought it back in 1977,Jeff.

Fixed that

Me thinks you need a trail groomer Digger I'll second that!

The Original had the frame upside down, so yeah, I got it backwards. The 70 and 100 had the angle irons pointed up therefore it lower the engine to be inline with the transmission. Sorry, I just had it backwards. The Original had the angle irons pointed down so the engine was higher than the transmission and needed a pulley and belt to lower the driveshaft down to be inline with the transmission........

Well on Super Bowl Sunday the boys went out to the barn put in a new battery and fired it up ! Now need some warmer weather so we can put some lipstick on her and pretty her up . This is my first video post so we'll see if it works . If so I have some with the RJ ploughing the garden. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ieb4IN3UDeo Sorry for the mess . My cousin and boy have been tearing apart and swapping engines on some Chevy trucks . The engine there using just won't die with over 360,000 miles.

Love those Onans.

Great little tractors.

Then gobbled up by the snowblower.True story

they may be the same, but if the cub motor is a small base block, with a cast pan then it is possible that the bearing plate on the motor is smaller hence a smaller shroud. You would need to take them both off and check.

saw this on utube thought it was appropriate

I had one for 20 years ( 1961 original - no fenders / 7hp Kohler )...traded it in on a new 312-8 - they gave me next to nothing for it - should have kept it - hindsight being 20/20...lol..my wheel horses have been better machines, but I really liked the old cub.. you did a splendid job on yours..

WT = what's that for us old guys Howard.

I've had 2 Ts flappers fail on me a break

They will, but will be pinched in. You really need a 12" wide wheel if you want to pull it. Also, tuck the tire and wheel in as close to the frame as possible. Pulls a little straighter that way. If you want to go with steel wheels, this guy can make them with whatever backspacing you want. He is mainly a Cub guy, but the wheels are the same. http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/ Randy

Glen, the B series in the 80's was the stamped steel frame built for mowing only but the B series from the 70's (B-60, B-80 and B-100) were garden tractors with the angle iron frame and were definitly built for more than just mowing duty. I think the main diff between a B-100 and a C100 is a slightly shorter frame on the B. I'm pretty sure a B-100 and C-100 have the same 8 speed tranny. I had a B-100 a few years back with 1-1/8th" axles which makes me think it had the 8 pinion tranny. Mike........