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Well on Super Bowl Sunday the boys went out to the barn put in a new battery and fired it up ! Now need some warmer weather so we can put some lipstick on her and pretty her up . This is my first video post so we'll see if it works . If so I have some with the RJ ploughing the garden. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ieb4IN3UDeo Sorry for the mess . My cousin and boy have been tearing apart and swapping engines on some Chevy trucks . The engine there using just won't die with over 360,000 miles.

I thought i'd post the restoration of my Cub Cadet 70 which is very rare in the UK, I finished her last year. I was very happy when I won the auction but a massive task was ahead of me, it was nice to get a tractor that came with all of the original manuals and although someone had badly painted her at some point it was in an original condition, complete condition. Here is how I got her One of the first jobs was fixing the steering box which didn't work very well. We could see straight away why, as parts are expensive to import to the UK we tried to fix everything we could. My dad (meadowfield) fixed the steering box using bicycle headset parts and the steering box works exceptionally now. Since the steering box had been fixed I went on to refurbishing the steering wheel. First I used a dremel to remove all the rust and also drilled small holes into the plastic so that the epoxy putty i used would hold. I was very happy and its not noticeable now. Below is how she was before i stripped her down. Rust was very bad as you can see. After years of use and no way of greasing the axle the pin had seized solid, we tried many methods to remove it but had to resort to drilling out the pin, when reassembling the axle i added a grease nipple and we turned a groove in the pin. We then worked on removing all the bad metal and fabricating new pieces. \ I like to do restorations properly and so I sandblasted 99% of the parts to remove all the rust. Some one had smashed the hood stand to but a larger battery in so we had to fix that as well. That was then sandblasted. After many hours of repair and sandblasting it was time to etch prime the parts and paint the parts. I managed to save the original rear tyres which was good. Every part was painted separately and then i assembled for the last coats. The hood was littered with rust holes and pitts but in an effort to keep the originality the holes were welded up and lots of filler was required. Back on all 4 wheels The light knob was missing so from a picture I turned one on the lathe. After a few more bits and pieces and decals from my dad she was finished. Here I am on the first test drive! I managed to save the original number plates which i was very happy with. This has been my most favourite restoration i have done so far and i have learnt many skills including painting with a spray gun, (i did all the painting myself) all these skills will be helpful with my up and coming RJ 58 restoration

Just a quick update on this machine. I found an NOS parts lot that I purchased off ebay which included an NOS seat and steering wheel. Here they are installed. The old seat I installed on my 520HC.

Just got this 701 home. Nice addition to my collection. Always wanted one.

This video was taken back in oct 2015 . I was amazed what that little 4hp kohler could do ! Think spring... https://youtu.be/pSnWliSydIU

Wow, 70 F here today, so I was able to work outside.

They made C-160s with Tecumsehs as well. As I have the story, there was a strike going on at Kohler, and engines were in short supply. Wheel Horse went to Tecumseh to get enough engines to keep production up. In '74, the C-120 Auto and 8-speed were available with the HH120 and the C-160 8-speed was available with the OH/HH 160 ohv engine. In '75 the C-120 auto and the C160 went back to all Kohler power and the C-120 8-speeds with the Tecumseh were given the C-120 Special labels. As you see in my picture, the front of the hood is raised up to clear the taller ohv engine. Unique hood hinges for the '74 C-160 with the Tecumseh.

Unless you have absolutely nothing else to do,why bother?? Both are great tractors just the way they are.Just my opinion.

The other day I was very fortunate to purchase a very rare to UK RJ58, I am currently at university but I am planning to do a full overhaul and restoration during the summer. She needs a hell of a lot of work but I can't wait to start. Since y'all like photos, here are some from when I bought her. Here's one on arrival, only way to move the pallet was with a digger .

Looks as if everything that needed to be done to every 4 or 5 hundred dollar tractor I've ever bought has already been done.Looks to be a no muss....no fuss tractor.Usually someone who takes all that time to write a detailed description of an item is a straight-shooter.Probably not a bad deal for that tractor.

It's not red, but that's me on a horse around 1946.

An old aircraft mechanic showed me a trick to keep fillings and shavings out. Take a can of "foamy" Barbasoll shaving cream (for yer whiskers) and shoot it into your hole or around the hole you want to drill/tap. When you're done making a mess, use a shop vac to suck it up, cream and all. I keep a can in my tool box and it has served me well. Mark.

There's only one piece of this trailer load I plan on keeping, but they wouldn't split it up!

Now you have!

That is my tractor and I have had it since the mid 80s. I used it to mow for 10 to 15 years untill it started knocking. I put it in shed for about 15 years. I then got it out and had it restored. I have since found out there were only 200 to 300 of these with the tecky engine made. I have not seen but a few at shows. I am very happy with mine it turned out very nice and runs great.

Looks like a nice setup and was well taken care of for sure... Odd looking angle adjust handle though.. C-120 with Deck and plow. A bunch of upgrades and repairs. But asking $950... They are in Cass City, MI. Not to far.

You guys up north of me can have my share.I am loving the 70s here in VA.JAinVA

We shall see ....

$200 worth of wheel weights alone!

WOW!! That's some fine work. Thanks for sharing.

Being a Clinton fan my self here's a link to some more Clinton info http://www.clintonengines.us/Home.html Parts lists & lot more good Clinton stuff there. I get my head gaskets & more from a guy in Idaho listed there. Interesting download there Steve...buck 98 for that "new" dry type air filter! They are a buck with four zeros after it now!

Just letting peeps know it's out there if you are in Michigan or regional area...

Hey guys! I've had this wheel horse of mine for about 6 years now and I've always been curious if it's a common model or if it's more of a not so common thing? I understand that the only difference is they came with a Tecumseh engine instead of the Koehler correct? When I got mine the Tecumseh was long gone and had a princess auto engine on it. I've since updated it back to a k301. Just curios if any other members got these tractors! And of course some pics

i would leave them both alone lol

LOL - I've been using Barbasol for years but never mentioned it , thought it would be a laughable subject for others . The stuff stays thick and lasts a long time , perfect for catching metal chips . I use high nickel anti-seize on the pipes and would not recommend using any type of pipe dope , especially anything like Durham's Rock Hard Putty - that would turn to concrete from the heat as it does with hot water pipes , making the joint nearly permanent . You can use teflon tape , but it will just mostly burn away and that joint isn't all that critical to start with . Best tip on a Sawzall - use a variable speed model and turn it's range adjustment all the way down . I had an old 2sp Dewalt and hated it - the newer Bosch is so much easier to control and a lot smoother . Sarge

Yes, those are the "Hey,honey, get me a beer " horns. The trouble is that when she brings the beer, she pours it on your head.....

Now that's some intresting info! I didn't think aside from the engine there was any differences. Tractors an amazing worker. Maybe this summer I'll give it some loving with some paint

I do believe that your just opening a case of troubles. Mounting it to the blower is gonna just cause all kinds of stress points that were never thought of or intended through the design of the blower or mounts. Just seems like a very costly mistake your contemplating.

I I think it might be time to go shopping for a front porch rocker...and get the key fob option....,,,makes it easier to find,, lolololo

Yes indeed! Very hard to find item around here locally in decent shape or for reasonable price. Closest decent one was asking $400 and the cheapest was 150 and totally rotted out. This one wasn't even for sale, it was just barely visible in the CL post, but I was able to get them to reconsider by taking the whole deal. The whole darn package tractor and all is really in quite good shape. Almost completely original, always stored inside and I bought it from the original owner's nephew. They sold it because "it wont go into gear, grinds every time you try"... And the belt cover was sitting in the storage area. The snow plow it pretty beat, but looks like it could be fixed.

Looks like you have a great project there. Keep us posted as you go.

My book says those numbers come from the earlier way Clinton identified their engines...prior to 1961. My book goes on to say...and I quote..." The early numbering system has no practical use to the consumer. It is useful only when ordering parts and only to one who has access to a parts manual. No other information can be gained from the model or serial number than what parts fit a particular engine." With that said, both the B1260 and the B1290 are listed as 3.6 hp. Check out this link in the Manuals Section. Weight difference was 6lbs...probably because the B1260 has a reduction gear...it looks like the B1260 also has a longer crankshaft...B1290 (13 13/16)...B1260 ( 16 41/64). The B1260 should work, but the longer crank could be an issue. Look at the 1960 page in the link.

The motorcycle clutch pack and chain drive is a unique feature. It looks like you have a good basic starting point though. I will be looking forward to seeing the resto.

Just slap one of these on there... and the Pine Bush cops might let it slide.

If I wanted both on the tractor at the same time I would think about adding a back blade. It would also balance the tractor.

Picked this up late this summer. Finally got time to post some picks and start on bringing her back to life. I started tearing it down today and couldn't resist trying to clean all the rust off the ID plate. I couldn't read anything on it in the beginning. Truthfully couldn't tell if it had anything stamped in it. But after a slow process of cleaning. I got it looking good. Serial number is faint but reads as 42388.

what paint did you use? aslo rattle can or airgun setup? I have a cub cadet 100 that i wish to restore to the same level as this, sometime soon, excellent work.

So are you asking if YOU should buy this or letting US know so someone can get it? ha ha Didn't this same thing happen to someone else last week? If it's sound and you have the cash then why don't you already have this tractor?

I'm rebuilding a 5 HP tech right now and I agree with this statement. I found a new replacement carb for 20$ about 30 with shipping. Or I could of got rebuild kit for 11$ and then be around 16 to 20$ with shipping.

The 4943 works excellent but you have to keep in mind it's designed for high silicate alloys - especially cast parts . The flow issue was due to the 1/2" rod stock - alloy unknown and I suspect the stuff is more of the imported garbage being dumped on the US market . If you buy any stainless steel that will be welded - same deal right now as the market is flooded and the stuff is junk - not worth it's weight in scrap . I had to send 35lbs of material back now to a supplier that substituted the imported crap for what I ordered followed up with a phone call - hope they got the message now . The point is - be very wary of what you buy in metals and where you get it . Never assume it's US made and always ask - the imported metals don't weld properly and can lead to odd failures at the worst times - especially in code work . It's gotten to the point of I'm buying half of my inventory out of the scrap yards if I can find what I need for material - ordering the rest from local shops when they do their bulk orders and specify US made only . Sarge

When I did mine a few years ago, I didn't have a sawsall, so I used a hacksaw, which though takes longer and requires more labor, it does provide greater control.

I see I'm not the only one here with Dyslexia!

I personally like the "estate" tractors, like the GT-14. One of the reasons why John Deere has been so successful in the L&G market is their larger GTs, like their 400 series. These and others brands in this size have been called Super Garden Tractors. Many here in the "red" world may not know this, but the John Deere 140, which is the same size as most GTs of that era, was designed to be an "estate" tractor. Deere had the Farmall Cub in mind when they designed the 140, but Deere wanted it to be a smaller size so it would appeal to a broader market. The 140 was an instant success. But, when Deere when back to the drawing board in the '70s, the 140 got replaced by the 300, but lost one spool of hydraulics, but at the same time, Deere introduced the Super GT, the 400 which had the triple hydraulics of the 140H3, but added power steering and the tractor gained some inches and some weight, about 200 to 300 pounds worth. In fact, the 400 has the heaviest frame built in a Deere Gt, including the 420 and 430 which came later. Cub Cadet didn't make a Super GT until years later. The GT-14 was probably more of an answer to the John Deere 140, while the D series was more of a Super GT inline with the JD 400 and other Super GTs of the '70s. Myself, I would like to have a 953/1054, but would also like to have a GT-14 or a D series. And since seeing a C-195 in person at @wh500specialSteve's father's house back in September, I wouldn't turn one of those down either.

I have that Harbor freight high position jack as well, and once considered how cool it would be to copy the geometry on the thing and make a big version of it using this larger 8 ton jack they sell as an upgrade to their engine crane. http://www.harborfreight.com/8-ton-long-ram-air-hydraulic-jack-94562.html Once i rebuilt the Southworth 42" lift height lift table, that idea died pretty quickly I have read reviews of people lifting loads close to the 1500 pound "capacity" of that lift, but I am not comfortable attempting it. Of course, an unbalanced load lifted up high and applying twist from horsing with a big wrench could lead to some Red Green style disasters. I do like your mods, Dennis. Using that add on or others you could make an engine stand of adjustable height, welding table, or any number of things

Just a caution on the front blade. I would be concerned using a front blade if it did not have the trip spring. You could be launched out over the tractor.

I have bought some hats from George last year on Facebook - I will say George is a great guy to deal with and has some nice stuff!

I have some used turning brake parts I may be willing to sell if you choose not to make all the parts. The parts shown in this picture is only a partial representation as I failed to include the discs from my collection. P.S. keep in mind that Wheel Horse not only offered the turning brakes on the D-200, but also offered a package for the prior year models: 18 Automatic, D-160 and D-180. There are two different model #s and some parts will swap though others may not. Also worth noting is Cub Cadet offered a system of disc brakes on some of their models that have some parts that can be used on Wheel Horse {see the yellowish colored parts in picture.}

Ok, what's the problem here?? I've seen many of those weights sell for over five hundred dollars. Yes it was on flea-bay. I do plan on doing some more weights. I'm sure there are some of you New to this hobby as I've been doing now for about 12 years maybe 13, and so as the story goes I've watched e-bay a lot, so yes I've seen expensive an then Not so expensive. It doesn't really matter if it is something you want or need to finish your project you'll either buy or you won't. The original weights are expensive Handle or No handle!!

The rebuild tools named are essential.If the cylinder needs boring,and the crank needs turning then a rebuild can get expensive.The cost of the deluxe rebuild kit on E-bay is reasonable but if you include the price of the tools you need it might be more cost effective to find a good used or alternate aftermarket replacement.If you plan on doing other engines in the future then you can spread the tool cost over more than one.Most of us that rebuild our own engines have the tools so the parts and machine work are the only expense.I'm not trying to talk you out of a rebuild but again the costs can add up quickly.JMHO,Luck,JAinVA