Leaderboard

Well I found a 312-8 locally yesterday in good shape so I went to look at it with the wife. Long story short she dropped me off and I drove it 4 miles back home. It is a strong runner and only took almost an hour to get home after a few short cuts through the town park. The picture of her at home under the deck till I can get her inside.

So 2 Saturday's or so ago I posted that I had retrieved the GT14 that Russ @SALTYWRIGHT let go to a new home. To keep the Provinence documented it came to Russ from Fireman. The reason this is the second haul is that earlier that morning I had delivered a D250 to @fast88pu So after pondering this tractors positives and negative(not many) ive decided to tear into it a bit and do focused restore. I'll swap out anything along the way that is marginal but mostly just assure everything is tight and in ship shape. I will be using the independent 3 point as template to make a couple more set ups. As I was pulling this out I have noted the cam assembly on front of Hydro is loose which helped me make the decision to do a limited deep dive. This thing looked good. Hopefully by late spring it will look even a bit better. One thing I noted right away is that it had a stock style Nelson Muffler. So I managed to get it off without damage and hit it lightly with sandblaster to remove rust and hit it with 1200 degree paint. I seriously need a bigger trailer so I can bring these tractors to the Sow for "Show & Tell". Lol I wasn't going to post on this tractor but figured a few updates along the way rather than a detailed day to day would be nice compromise. not to mention these Nelsons are cool. And muffle sound way better than the pepper pots or whatever are common replacements these days. a few pics....

I have to say I never hoped to find a 520h and now another followed me home. 550 hours on the clock.Owner was asking $350.

Don't be one of "those guys" who's always worried about resale value... If you make it a labor of love, you simply can't go wrong.

Here's a little inspiration.

With all this talk of 520-Hs lately and the numerous threads currently on them, I went out yesterday to the garage and started my 1995 520-H. It started right up with no problem. But, then I went out and bladed the gravel in the driveway with the '88 416-8 and my Brinly box blade. Life is good when you get a decent day, a couple of hours of "ME" time and running, working tractors with implements. I also have a 416-8 with a Kohler Magnum with over 3600 hours on the meter. See my comment earlier in this post about using it to blade the driveway. At $100, you stole yours.......

I bought this wheel horse 704 for $250. I have plans to restore it back to original the closest I can. Was it a good buy and what would it be worth after I get done restoring it?

Well, it's little, but for some reason, I just felt that it absolutley had to happen. So 40 bucks later after visiting a tractor supply and a home depot, I came up with this! JUST KIDDING and if you have a keen eye, you'll notice the zip tie holding the flapper on(Only did that for the picture). I mounted it and it only lasted 5 minutes. Cheap chinese junk....just gotta find someone with a welder, and it will be as good as new. I like the stack. Sounds cool, and about the same volume as the old muffler that was on it. Now I just gotta get both headlights working and mounted again, and then I need the dash tower welded because it's been broken from years and years of only plowing. It was ordered with no mower deck, and has been that way since new. Just got a new float for the carb the other day, because the 50 year old one finally failed, but probably my most reliable tractor. Starts every time (except for when the float went bad)

I would call that joy riding and you didn't have to steal it to go for the ride. ......You didn't steal it right???

Found an Xi single stage snow thrower still attached to a 520xi for sale as a package, contacted the owner asked if he would separate and sell and sure enough I brought home a "gently" 3 or 4 season used single, paint faded from setting out under roof only but looks solid and sounded quiet when engaged, PO left it attached to his tractor drove it up on my trailer unhitched and backed away couldn't have been easier on my back, Jeff.

Impossible to give a restored value without seeing the finished product. Everyone's definition of restored is different. You do have the wrong motor, wrong steering wheel and the hood is cut. Looks like you have an extra idler pulley for some reason. A full honest to goodness nuts and bolts restore generally costs more that what you can sell them for in my opinion. Mike.....

I changed some tires the other day on my oldest Wheel Horse RJ. When removing the tires I noticed that the hubs were a little loose and wobbled a bit after the wheel was removed with the older tire. I tightened up the set screw bolt on the hub but noticed it was still moving a bit on the axle. More than I thought was normal. So I decided to remove the hub and check the key and keyway. I thought the keyway might have been chewed out. However, after removing and cleaning off the grease from the axle and Woodruff key I found that the key itself had been damaged. Looks like it had been squeezed together right under the top of the 1/4 by 1 inch keyway. Well I think they were the original - ( 58 years old) keys so time to change. $1.20 each for two Woodruff keys and back together again. No wobble and hub is tight on the RJ axle again!

58 years ago, thay was probably a 3 cent part! It has served you well.

T-Mo, this one only has 1400 on the clock. MANY years left to go!

Jim, my buddy and I were down your way yesterday and snagged a well kept 416-8 with a Kohler magnum. Right outta your back yard...Urbana. Oh yeah, $100. Came with a 48" deck too. $100.

This is a similar Wheelhorse trans I opened a few years ago. Lots of crud and rust. Surprised it all clean up easily with kerosene and a rotary wire brush and some coarse steel wool.

oh heck no i wont lol. besides i am 26 years old still live with my parents (due to medical and cant get full time job) but i obay the rules dads one rule is nothing green and yellow allowed in the yard.

Is this better??

I'm thinking those 2 boys you have there want you to take it all apart and do it right. You have already done the hard part, and like Scott said, "You could just scrape and wipe it clean." I think it is too easy to just take the rest of it apart, clean it and make sure you don't have anything in the bearings that should not be there. Check out this thread...while not your transmission, it is close enough to get you through tearing it down and putting it back together.

I would say if it is Red and it has the name Wheel Horse on it that is my pick.

this can go in the "Most unique" category. 90% Wheel Horse parts

@stevasaurus well started on wheels and bearings today. ordered the Timken #LM 11949 and received them yesterday from rock auto for $3.07 each and national #204005 seal for $3.50 each . It is amazing the seal cost more then the Bearing .( Did I tell you I was cheap). Both races are new in both rims so I didn't have to order them. Not much to it I did put the seal in one rim with bearing on the new tire after I cleaned the paint off race . The other I have to paint the rim before I can mount it on rim. This was just a dry run I still have to strip the paint off the front axle and paint it . I love that little bearing packer. Had to buy a new 3/4-16 castle nut but only a $1.00 at local tractor shop. I also ordered light switch and dust covers I need 1.785 id cover ill know when I get them if they fit,

They are strong. With rebuilt trannys they are tanks. As for the loader the gt14 specific loader that I have I don't know what the lift capacity is but I've lifted a 73 no name with it no problem. It's the best and most useful horse that I have in my heard.

Sign of a great man.

OK. I know you're good for it but I'd rather trade for further ideas.

I think the balance point on most would be behind the mid mount. Very good idea, I have a similar roll around; your royalty check will be in the mail.

Aldon nailed it here. I've owned one for years, and his description couldn't be better. They are "estate" tractors.

@ztnoo thanks for that humor. Yup you caught me. The great pig rustler And I've owned several GT14's. Not Gatling guns It helps If your mechanically inclined. Test the hydro by butting front end up an immovable object and if tires dig a hole it passes. If they stop turning, the hydro likely needs attention soon. BTW, Rear tires for it can be a concern. New turfs can be had for ~ 400 but AG tires aren't. Unless you like your AG's skinny. I think the 6.7 or 7.6 width is still out there.

The GT14 easily compares if not outright beats all other wheel horses if compared against each other in pristine condition. They were the beast of their time. They are heavy ~900-1200# depending on implements, weights and tire fill etc and make great workers or loader tractors. But as they were expensive and built like tanks it seems that as they are coming onto market these days most have been ridden hard and put away wet. Implements are specific for them and can be a challenge to locate. I modified a couple to use the more modern attachment system and implements which resolves that issue. They can be a bear to disassemble and put back together. Like a jigsaw puzzle. The hydros are not weak but after 45 years they may need maintenance like any other item that wears. Once the hydros have been dealt with they appear to be significantly strong workers. Fast88pu and 953nut use theirs with loaders. I know Fast88pu works his hard. So much so I'm sold on putting a loader on one of mine. They don't turn as tight as lighter or short frame tractors. So if you mowing large expanses they are good to great. Not so much for a 3rd of an acre lot with shrubs etc. Rather than pick a tractor, choose your intended use and then pick the tractor that best fits those needs. A gattling gun is awesome and would certainly kill a rabbit but would not be ideal hunting implement for that task. I do fancy them and have owned 7-8 or so. Once they have been put in ship shape, they are awesome.

Perfect fit... is that seat worth more than the ?

'67 157 Lawn Ranger saved from the scrap pile. I have the original eng and rear tires and wheels. Trans is perfect with clean gear oil. Not sure which....repair or restore. I'll think about it. Wish list..... Orig steering wheel Seat cover Knobs to attach hood Snow plow.....I have the mounting bracket just no blade.

Hi Guys, It's me again looking for professional advice! Today we split open the transmission on our '79 C-81 and found that the gasket had rotted under the Fender Support Bracket and part of the gearbox interior is rusty. LUCKILY it is only a small area on both half's. (The box had plenty of oil.) Can someone recommend the best way to get rid of the rust? I was not planning to disassemble the entire thing but maybe I'll have to? what do you think? Check out the pictures below. With thanks for your advice. Long live Wheel Horse!

All ways change the Woodruff keys when you remove the hub. Even the slights indention on the key will let the hub move and wear off the cup point of the set screws.

After the fact ...but here's my take on values of so-called "restored"... Unless you where there or they documented everything , including machine work and a list of new parts - never let the shiny object push you to pay a lot of money , that can be a huge mistake . Shiny and new looking means just that , and nothing more in the mechanical sense . I see a lot of "restored" machines for sale that are flat worn out and would cost double their asking price to fix properly . Worn out bearings and associated issues with front axles/spindles , steering components , bushings and such add up really quickly and some of those parts aren't available for many models so hunting good used parts becomes expensive in it's own right . I see a lot of really nice paint jobs with a bad hydro transmission , rare missing parts , engines that are worn out and have their own set of problems , ect...that's not a nice feeling for someone who just dumped a lot of cash into a machine , only to take it apart to fix it and possibly damage that nice attractive paint/stickers . There are a few people out there that will only "do it right" and will occasionally sell a machine after it's done - we know who they are and they even offer them up at more than fair prices - so buyer beware . Shiny objects cost a lot of money and often come with an additional hidden price tag - keep that in mind when shopping . Sarge

Looks like you got a heck of a deal!!

Fastest method is an acetylene torch with a large tip and go big on the heat , otherwise a short sawzall blade and notch that pipe down as close to the threads as possible . If you nick the threads it's no big deal , really.. One or two cuts is up to you , if you go with only one put the pipe wrench's lower jaw right next to the cut so it turns into the cut when going counterclockwise - it will collapse the pipe the thickness of the saw cut you made and it will let go . Two cuts just gives it more room to shrink the outside diameter of the pipe and come out even easier . Paraffin wax ( canning wax) works quite well also - a good quality Mapp gas torch will make enough heat for it to work - heat the pipe only and quickly . Apply the wax and let it cool for a few minutes . If necessary , repeat a couple times . Sarge

Apparently the Ponds were fond of "pond" skating...This little known add on was designed to keep your safe if you go through the ice while plowing a skating rink for the youngsters... Depending on how deep the water is, you can also hook a boat seat cushion to a winch cable. When the tractor sinks the seat will float, pulling the cable to the surface, providing an easy lift point to haul it back out. The really fancy models are completely water proof, so when the cushion reaches the top it switches the winch on and pulls the tractor out by itself. The entire rig is available from Toro as NOS Pt # snkurWHrtvlsystm 101-SHLWTR or 102-DPWTR depending on how long you want the cable to be...

YA DAG-GUM MANGY VARMINT! !!!! This is my default setting when I have to hold back at work!

Great Horse. You stole it at that price! After a quick shower that Stallion'll be smiling!

Nice looking 520-H.I have 4 or 5 of them myself.Like I've written here before,I love those Onan twins.Lot of folks here don't,but I do.Use a lot of gas?? Who cares.That's the least of my problems.Have fun with your new toy.

Looks good Jim. Should clean up nice. Great price too!

This is from Brian Miller's site. http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/engine.htm Counterbalance gears does no good to install them. Most Kohler engines don't come with them and they do very little to help reduce engine vibration. When left out, the engine will not vibrate more than usual. Besides, being balance gears are made of cast iron and operate out of balance on a single needle bearing, they've been known to break and destroy the crankshaft, cam and engine block. I've seen this happen a few times. Therefore, I highly recommend leaving them out.

Jeff, This one was in the state less than 150 miles round trip.It was listed in Craigs list.It is not running at present but the deck is in great shape with no rust and good blades.The front end is tight and overall I'm happy with what I dragged home.This is the third one for me and is in better overall shape than the others.I work them and let others collect.JAinVA

Hard to say, my first Horse, 40+ years ago. Current go-to's, 414-8, 416-8 and our 520-8. Like the 520's swept axle.

Ya know...A coat of red on that trailer would eliminate a lot of the retina problems members might be experiencing with this particular post...

I was able to get the pressure washer out today and clean all the years of crude off and butt if. Looking prettygood for a worker.

Might just start it up.

I would have to say the red ones are the best.