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Many likely recall the Hunt Brothers tried to corner the silver market to drive up the price. i assure everyone I'm not following this principle in regards to GT14's. LOL Although even I am beginning to think I may have a problem:-) I guess that's the first step to recovery. Hahahhaha i was was busy planning my next project several weeks ago when I habitually jumped on the Forum. And read through the classifieds. Gotta be quick with this group of fans. Lo and behold @SALTYWRIGHT, Russ, had posted his GT14. Having seen his deisel Horse, I took the immediate plunge trusting that even without photos it would be a nice horse. I'm glad I did. I drove up to his house yesterday after dropping off a truly magnificent beast at @fast88pu, Kyle. I managed to gain the good graces of Kyle's wife and she acquiesced to Kyle tagging along with me to help me out at Russ'. This was a boon more than she knew. His help was appreciated. I will note that Russ has a fine collection. And he and his wife are excellent people. A joy meeting them. Her for first time him for the second. I had previously met him at @stevebo, last large meet and greet. It was a lot of driving and did not get to photos as it got dark so here are a few this morning. this makes 4 whole GT14's and I continue to build my 22hp 8 speed GT14 mod. Not to mention I think I may have enough parts to build yet another. so as mentioned, I really am not trying to corner the GT14 market. It is just seems that way. I will very likely need to trim down collection soon. Hahahhaha

Last year I never setup my 523Dxi with it's snowthrower and cab because of the lack of snow - and then on January 23, 2016 we were socked in for five days with close to 40" of snow from a blizzard. I never used that tractor! With this turning into another "Winter That Wasn't," I have been refining the installation of my "new/used" cab for the 518xi and the lighting controls compared to the cab on the 523Dxi. Two years ago on my 523Dxi, I had put 27W LED floods on the front and an 18W LED flood on the rear. I had also motorized the chute deflector on the single stage snowthrower. The wiper was manual. This year I have used the cab roof from the 523Dxi's cab for the 518xi. The reason is I have a motorized wiper and it is just easier to start fresh with the other roof. It will again get 27W floods on the front and an 18W flood on the rear. It will also receive copies of the new items I have mounted on the 518xi. The 518xi has received roof mounted taillights, and an amber LED lightbar. The tailights give me piece of mind due to the 518xi not having tailights like the other four 5xi models. Maybe this summer I will pull the seat pan off and finally add them! There is a master fuse at the battery and individual fuses inside the control box. All wire to wire connections were soldered and heat shrunk. I also used a trailer junction box, mounted at the roof, to make removal at the end of the season easier. For the wiring I used 12 gauge stranded to the control box. There is a Weatherpack connector at the firewall. I used 14 gauge stranded to the lights with one 12 gauge ground to the junction box to lessen the number of wires in the loom to the roof. This way all the wiring and boxes can be stored with the roof piece of the cab. Space was left on the face of the box for motion controls of the snowthrower and snow blade. My plan is to have common controls and connections for the attachments to each tractor. That way I can swap duties between tractors. Latest weather says snow next Sunday/Monday!!! Notice the fuse block cover from Glen Pettit. The red switch is a momentary switch for changing the amber lightbar pattern.

A Tecumseh with no electric start is a whole new kind of workout!! But it was very much worth the pain after I got everything dialed in. Today, I took a trip to check out a tractor I've been eyeing for a bit. I had some interest, mostly because of the front weights on the tractor, but was more put off by my experience with an HH60 on a 656 in the past (Which still doesn't run right ) and thought to myself, "There's no possible way I'd buy an HH60 with NO ELECTRIC START." But after continually looking at it from time to time, and the price being just right, I figured why not, I'll give it a shot. So I sent the guy a message, and he said he had it running in the summer, but not since then. So I brought a spark tester with me, and made sure that the tractor had spark before I bought it, which it did, thank god, and I brought it home! Once I got it home, I took it off the truck, and tried to start it by putting another tractor in front of it and connecting them with a belt with a flip in it to turn the motor in the right direction, but for the first time ever, that had failed me! Just wasn't working for me, So I had to do it, To the dreaded pull start. 3rd pull I got a putt, and a few putts in the next couple pulls. Then she started, but seemed to rev really high, So I kept playing with the throttle until it seemed okay. Tractor idled okay, but didn't want to run at higher speed well, I stalled it a bunch of times attempting to drive it around, so I pulled apart the carb, cleaned it, put some new parts in that I had laying around, and made some adjustments, and she purrs wonderfully. She uses some oil, but for a 51 year old tractor, I'm not complaining. The tractor is all original except for the seat and I think the carb, muffler and gas tank may be changed, but tough to tell, and the rims may have been painted due to some super light white over spray on the whole tractor, but the red is all original, that's for sure. I'm assuming it has been garaged its entire life because she really is a nice one. Really surprised me, a good running techy!! Who'd a thought of that! If any of you could possibly give me some pointers on how to get one of these old recoil starters to recoil better, I would really appreciate it! This one was starting to get sticky near the end of its tests, haha. and Without further adeiu, I present to you, Pictures. And a video!

I built this paint booth for about $100.00 Used material I had laying around. Lumber, bed frame, paint screen,shower curtain, velcro, casters, foam insulation, etc. All I bought was the range hood, venting, and lights. It's 3' by 3' close to 6' total height. Uses a furnace filter to filter incoming air when closed up with fan running. I made a insulated panel that fits into the sliding door and has vent door installed. With this setup I can paint any time of year. Very little fumage too. The clear shower curtain seals shut with velcro. I use various methods to hang the parts to be painted. I used it to paint the wheels on the 68 Charger. Worked great!

Who would have thought you could find a Brinly Cultivator in a "Peddlers Mall"! Priced reasonable too. Needs cleaned up and painted but that is not a big deal!

Hi guys, I just bought a C160 that is going to need some restoration and found this forum. Looks like there is a lot of useful information here and i hope to be able to contribute eventually. BR /Totte

My wife came home to this I'll just leave it there in the living room

Very strong machine

If it is decent, I personally like the original patina. A full-on resto is great, but I think it is hard to beat the " used " but still " great look". ( think - a 77 year old man with new dentures and a wig - doesn't that just give you chills?? )

We usually don't have any snow until around Christmas, so of course we got pounded three weeks early. Tractor still in the back barn with the mower deck on & the snowblower buried/blocked in by summer "accumulation". After that three week battle here comes three weeks of rain... Decided to get a plow for when everything turns to slop & the snowblower becomes useless. Found a plow & had to order a new attaching bracket for it, it arrived the day the last of the snow had melted. Now that I'm ready I totally agree, our tractors make great scarecrows for snow!!!

Post a few pics of the knots on your head if it left tire marks on the floor.

Gave bendy a workout today, got bogged to the axles a few times and if it wasn't for lots of lock to lock on the steering it wouldn't have made the slope. Gave me a good excuse to hose her down

The cool factor for me is that the GT-14 is not much bigger than other but is heavier and is a brute! With chains on loaded rear tires, 140 pounds of wheel weights and a weight box hanging off the three point hitch it is a beast. You got that right!

Joe, here is what that cross shaft looks like. I'm holding it by the flag that the guys are saying broke off. It's the right end that sticks out of the block. In this picture, you can see the cross shaft and the flag up against the piston of the gear. Nice video Joe.

It's not pretty but solid

There's this guy in Medford , Mn.....he says the same thing. But I've yet to see it happen.

The more work you do to that thing, the less snow you will get. It's a proven fact! We were supposed to get a foot this past week. Last weekend I moved the blower tractor to the front of the line. I don't think we got even an inch!

Here are some quick pics I grabbed of my custom Autism Horse I am building up. To cold to to many of the projects, but I did take the hood and fender pan in the house, buffed them out and installed the decals that Vinylguy donated to the cause. I managed to get the big hood decal on with only a couple minor wrinkles. I am pleased and I have more decals on order from other sources to add to the tractor. I need to wire up the strobe beacon to the lights, find me a single original style(good used) red front wheel cap and pick up a new shifter boot. Debating on putting the embossed hub caps on or not. Not in the budget for awhile anyways. I will repaint the muffler with heat proof silver paint. Look for a full story and how being on the spectrum affects my life and what garden tractors, along with my trains, mean to me in Lawn & Garden Collector magazine in the future. Mike

As long as he`s not wearing shorts, sandals, and black knee socks....

and the Governor is about the last thing you pull on doing a tear down and the first thing you put back when you reassemble....

Gee, Aldon.....................what was your first clue??? I told you a long time ago you had contracted a really bad case of "The Disease", but now there is absolutely NO DOUBT in my mind. Nice score, btw. Any of you guys on the East coast thinking about finding a GT 14, better get your act and rear in gear, because the supply is dwindling, if not by the week, at least by the month, courtesy of Mr. Trimble. Hurry, hurry, hurry!!!!

If I click this thread again & there's a flower / vase on that hood ..... I quit !

I can understand why she might be upset - there's only one! Should be His and Hers matching tractors at precisely the correct angles to the wall for the appropriate room feng shui... Also, as 953 nut said: So; where is the problem? Your child leaving the little ride on horse next to the TV shouldn't be a problem. Of course, the problem is the color of the little riding horse! Simply not the correct shade of red...

Easy to find......just follow the line in the sand.... (( that you crossed )) and look for a raised pile of dirt in the back 40....... But,,,that in one nice looker.... stay safe...lolololo Howard 857 Horse in VA

In my humble opinion that is the best and safest place for that one. Just need to put a couple of posts with a rope around it.

The way you and @fast88pu are scoring Aldon we gonna have to start calling you two the dynamic duo!

Regardless of whether that cab was specifically made to fit a tractor... if dimensionally, it's even close to fitting your tractor... I'd be bringing that one home...hard cabs on our tractors are seen few and far between.

I have a Skat Blast cabinet and a Campbell Hausfield Two Stage 5 hp compressor. I really like the cabinet. Several years ago I had a smaller cabinet from Harbor Friegth it was terrible the taper on the bottom was too shallow and the sand wouldn't flow back down to the intake. Cabinet cannot handle frame fenders or hoods. Have a pressure tank i can use out side but it is not used much.

Don't they, kind of all... look the same once they've been "restored"?

Go ahead, I have a GT-14 and you will never corner the market totally; but you will increase the value of mine! Just as long as you don't start hording 953s, that would be a problem!

So I recently made a post called new to me 1960 suburban 400. I had cleaned the I'd plate and the serial number read as 42388 atleast it appeared. Well I was sitting on the tractor yesterday the light got the I'd plate enough to were it made me question the last digit in the serial number. So I took it off and did some more cleaning and pulled a little magnification device out that my grandad had always had in his toolbox. Never understood why but it worked great for me today. So the update to that serial number is 42383. Please check out photos and let me know what ya think. I'd like to make sure the list on here has the proper number.

You know it's bad when you miscount your own herd! 3 whole GT14's, GT22-8 in progress and parts to make 1-2 more.

We just got all kinds of Lake Effect . Throw her on the trailer & head over for some winter-time FUN !

...or, not.

So; where is the problem? Your child leaving the little ride on horse next to the TV shouldn't be a problem.

My 1996 416-H, with an Onan P-216 has 1600 hours on it. Other then puffing a small amount of smoke on startup, the engine is strong. I too am a fan of Kohler, but love the sound of the Onan twin. As far as things with the name Toro, I must say that if not for Toro, Wheel Horse may have become MTD . At least Toro kept the Wheel Horse name for a couple decades, and still maintain a stock of some parts for us.

Okay, after deciding to get a swept front axle for my 95' 312-8 that use a plow on, I figured that I'd jump, get a welder (Lincoln Dual MIG 180ampDC 240v) and see what kind of fabrication I could mock and put together for the Plow/ Dozer extension kit... TOOLS LIST: 1. Ch. Elect. Chop saw and metal cutting disc 2. Ch. Elect. 4-1/2" Angle Grinder 3. Flat File 4. Ryobi dual drill/ hammer drill (not on hammer ha ha) 5. 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4" drill bits (I really need to a get a drill press. Almost got one to face twice) 7. Vice 8. Tape Measure and scratch all (nail ha ha-don't worry I have a soap pen now) 9. Lincoln 240v Dual MIG 180amp DC welder with .035 FC wire 10. Can of Pam cooking spray to help limit spatter. I used the measurements on the site, got some 2.5" x 3/8" Flat stock and 3/4" round stock. I don't have a torch so I couldn't get the bend to work but I decided to try and weld the shift in the sidebars together. Unfortunately my stock was limited and I had t patch a 1/2" piece at the end of one of the side bars. It's not on high pressure point though. I did end up getting a little to high current on a couple welds but was able to get the welder more dialed in today and finish up the unit with better beads. I know they are not perfect but will get the job done. This is my first go round in welding so be gentle on the criticism (which is welcome). It's only been 2-3 days. Have a look. Piece that was but welded and then ground down to match and cut at the proper length. A little to much amperage. Thought about running two more beads on top of these after getting the welder dialed in for 3/8" which was WFS-3 and Volts-C with .035 FC wire. Lock slots... 11-7/16" at the bottom outside measurement (at the removable 3/4" lock bar). 11-1/2" at the top inside measurement. I simply placed it all on the plow and clamped the side bars to the plow rails and then set the top (rear) 3/4" bar and tacked it. Post welding fit... It's nice a snug on the plow frame and fits perfect on the plow bracket on the axle. Last this to do is drill the cotter pin holds. Next will be the lift bracket. Will use a sanding disc on the rest, prime and paint after that. More pics to come...

I had an L3, L4, L5 laminectomy, with instrumented fusion back on November 30, 2015. It has been almost 14 months since the surgery, and though it was difficult to not bend, twist or lift for almost 6 months, and I thought my tractor days were over, I survived. Today, I do almost everything that I want, but I do it differently. I am more conscience of my spine. I was told by many that I would regret the fusion, but I am happy to say that I do not regret it at all. Today, other than the stiffness that normally accompanies a 66 year old, I am pain free. I walk 3 to 4 miles per day, and go to the gym whenever I can. I am back to riding and working on the horses. So bottom line, do everything that your doctor tells you, and good luck. You have a lot of friends here who have gone through the same ordeal.

Whew! @roadapples Im glad it OK to wear blue socks with my shorts & sandles Meanwhile, back to the tractor. Keep the paint original for now, or if the parts have some areas your concerned about rusting, give them a coat of satin clear.

No, no updates lately slim. The weather didn't hold out for me long enough to finish last year, and since my garage isn't insulated, nor does it have enough room inside, I'll have to wait for Spring to finish this project. Sorry Sir! I usually work on remodeling the house over the Winter months, just so I can stay busy. I also just took notice that my membership is about to expire, so I guess I need to get that updated as well.

Wow! A friend from my home country! Great!

Neat idea, got to get building one too.

@Totte to The C-160 is a very good machine!

Welcome to the forum! You came to the right place for Wheel Horse info.

furniture

here is what it looked like

Joe, you have a couple things going on. Can you put a picture of the top of your piston, now that you have the head off. If it kind of looks like this...that clean area from 12 to 4 o'clock shows oil blow by, and you need to rebuild the engine first. That is the blue smoke...does not matter if it start up or under load. The other thing you have going on, is the governor. Your engine is never going to run under load if that cross shaft is not locked with that lock nut. If it still turns when that net is tight, it is not doing what it is supposed to do. Rebuild the engine first (I just tore down my K181 on my 876...taking it to the machine shop Monday). When you get it back, let's put it back together. Check out Mike Prondzy's thread in the "Reference" Section/Engines...K181 rebuild. The manual, if you do not have it, is in the manual section under engines. Check out the manual and read it...everything you want to know...and we are here to walk you through it. I hope you know that you can not just change the rings and put it back together, you need good measurements and either bored and/or cross hatching. Checking the valves, tolerances, etc. It is not a huge project, but you are just wasting your money if you do not do it right. I used a ratchet strap to hold the fly wheel to get the castle nut loose, and then to use the puller to get the fly wheel off. I did not take the engine off the horse until I got all the pulling stuff off the engine.

A thought on the drill press. Get a foot pedal switch!! There is no better way to get hurt than to have the bit bite hard into the stock and ripped from your hands. Or have one hand holding the stock the other holding the down wheel and trying to head butt the off switch. Don't ask how I know. The foot switch is one of those "best twenty dollars I ever spent " deals. Mark