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Picked this sign up to pin on the stable door, thought it was appropriate

So here she is. From what I gather a 633 should be a yank start but this one is an electric start....a conversion I'm assuming since the engine is absolutely correct for a 633 (model# and spec#). It's not perfect but shows well enough for this redneck. Drove it around the yard a few times and it seems to be fine. Came with a mowing deck that was not "cleaned up" but seems intact. Not sure if it's the correct deck or not....I'm not very well versed in the round hood stuff like I am with the 1970's and newer machines and attachments. Also has a well built but homemade bracket on the front that I assume was for weights. That'll probably be coming off. Pics of course! Mike.....

I went yesterday to Mueller Motors in Desoto, Missouri. About a 25 mile drive north for me. They always have a few WH in their yard, some are customers, some are for sale, and others appear to be part tractors. There was a C-120 in the pen, but I didn't take any pictures from that side of the carport. The first two pictures I took a couple of years back and are posted in the dealer list. The other few pictures are from yesterday. They are also have another bone yard out back, but there weren't any WHs back there, but carcasses of other brands, tractors, walk behinds, etc.

11-26-1968 Air Force helicopter pilot rescues Special Forces team While returning to base from another mission, Air Force 1st Lt. James P. Fleming and four other Bell UH-1F helicopter pilots get an urgent message from an Army Special Forces team pinned down by enemy fire. Although several of the other helicopters had to leave the area because of low fuel, Lieutenant Fleming and another pilot pressed on with the rescue effort. The first attempt failed because of intense ground fire, but refusing to abandon the Army green berets, Fleming managed to land and pick up the team. When he safely arrived at his base near Duc Co, it was discovered that his aircraft was nearly out of fuel. Lieutenant Fleming was later awarded the Medal of Honor for his actions.

I got two of my horses ready for snow today. My 520HC with the blower and my C120 with a 48 inch blade. I tried to put the 42 inch blade from my 876 on my 1968 Commando 8 but the rear tires are too close together measuring 15 1/2 inches apart from inside of tires at the widest point on the sidewall. I measured the width between the tires on the 876 at the same place on the tires and it measures 19 1/2 inches so it's 4 inches wider than the Commando. I never knew there was a difference. I guess I need to look for a narrow short frame blade for the Commando. The 1955 - 2000 attachment interchange lists the 876 blade as part number BD4267 and the Commando blade as 6-4111.

Picked up another Partial Lawn Ranger not too far from home . (Thanks to "Eagle Eye" Shynon down in Medford for pointing me in the right direction).... Pretty good shape considering it was sitting outside. I might just add the missing hood and engine, clean it up inside and out , oil it down and call it good.

Sort of a "One Horse Open Sleigh". Actually 14 horses, I guess. I used Christmas decorating as an excuse to get out the 314. It made it much more enjoyable. My wife just shook her head.

Here is my semi-restoration project. I Just cleaned mine up a little and stripped all the sheet metal and repainted it. I used IH red paint color. I purchased this 520H at an auction a year ago for$400 it has a rock solid 62" most deck. I also have a 2 stage blower for it. I am waiting for my new bar tires. Thought I would share it here

I made a pair of sweeps from angle iron and welded them onto my homebuilt ripper today. What a difference! The C160 auto didn't struggle a bit busting the ground up almost a foot deep. I love this beast!! Problem is the neighbors are asking me to bust plots for them. Thanks for the support and wisdom of all of you here. Mark.

With tinted windows, a tool box and the back-rack there is no way to get a rear view mirror shot...so for now a side mirror shot will have to do. Mike.....

Pretty neat idea .

More details about parts used and how they fit - Here are the spacers - Oilite bushings , 1" id x 1-1/4" od x 3/4" long . I couldn't find the studs I wanted but McMaster has them , of course.... https://www.mcmaster.com/#94358a330/=157i1xw So , using a piece of hot rolled steel I just broke out the tap and die set - just made my own . Long end is 3/8"-16 x 1" , short end is 3/8"0=-24 x 5/8" . Slotted the ends to install them and added red locktite - you do not want these to be able to back out on their own . Once the studs are installed one additional spacer had to be cut to 3/16" wide for one side - there are always differences in the fabricated parts like this - those spindles are not always the same length due to how they were welded . The spacer was cut from an adapter bushing for Cat1~2 hitch parts from TSC - I always keep some of these around for making spacers and such . Another option is to get a variety of 14 & 18ga machine bushings with a 1" bore and stack them to be able to pre-load the tapered trailer hub bearings . One side accepted 1 - 14ga bushing & 1 - 18ga bushing . The outside washer was made from heavy steel stock on the lathe - 3/16" to prevent deflection and faced parallel . You could also use the standard heavy gauge spindle washers but finding the smaller bore to fit the 3/8" stud isn't easy . Fender washers are too light but (you guessed it) McMaster has special oversize/over thick washers in stock ...(see a pattern?) https://www.mcmaster.com/#92140A118 Just an fyi - the trailer hub kits I chose have around .750 (3/4") clearance inside the dust cap - this is why everything is kept fairly short . That 3/4" depth is measure from the inside of the dust cap to the seating face on the hub - just keep this in mind if you do an upgrade of this type . If you used the somewhat common "shorty" hubs the length of the spindle would become a problem and require a lot more spacing on the inside . This is not ideal for two reasons - The original steering geometry is set for the rim center to fit the spindle in the middle , moving it outward or inward changes that geometry and will affect steering a lot . Further out and the wheels have to swing in a larger arc which would interfere with attachments such as a deck and put a much higher load on the spindle's pivot point in the axle . Moving inward would help lessen axle stress but that would also require a much shorter backspaced wheel to clear the axle's casting at the spindle , not to mention steering arms . Just things to keep in mind when shopping for parts , sometimes you can find better deals but need to know what exactly will work - and what won't .... Here is what I intended to build , simple stud with a 3/8"-24 castle nut , drilled to accept a cotter pin - just like a standard old-school front wheel bearing/spindle setup . 3/8"-24 thread is used to allow for bearing pre-load adjustment in small increments - coarse thread doesn't work unless you change spacer/shim thicknesses . Just keep in mind that whatever you use for shims it must push the outside bearing just slightly past the end of the spindle . This gives you a way to pre-load the tapered roller bearings and obtain a reasonable distance between the wheel and the end of the axle casting/steering parts . Here is the finished setup using a stud and castle nut to adjust the bearing pre-load . This hub setup now makes the wheel bearings easier to service , last far longer than the junk ball bearings in the wheels and can carry a lot more weight and handle side loading stress far better than the original design .... Next , we'll detail rim spacing and hopefully soon this thing can get under the tractor where it belongs... Sarge

Ok guys, completely rebuilt carb, w/new shaft bushing. Filed points to get spark and cleaned plug. Removed tins and cleaned out, plus found TDC and timing mark. Marked both with white out. Removed cylinder head and cleaned. Adjusted valves, exhaust was way to tight. Check and found ACR out of adjustment. Removed cam gear cover, adjust ACR per manual. Set engine timing. Removed fuel tank and cleaned out gum. Replaced tank bushing and fuel shut off. Replaced fuel lines. Started engine, ran great! Warmed up, shut down, changed oil. Checked and found RPM's over 3800, adjusted maximum to 3570 with tachometer, and idle to 1200. Set carb fuel mixtures. Engine sounds and runs perfect. No smoke. Trans seems to be fine, will change oil and filter. Hydraulics work fine. Need to install permanent battery and take outside of garage for full operational inspection.

I'm not so sure that's ever been proven as being a constant. I do know there were problems with intake manifolds breaking and I believe the Kohler "fix" was to install the standard side draft Carter "N" & matching governor lever & link in place of the updraft Tillotson. Earliest versions did have a Fairbanks-Morse recoil vs. the Kohler recoil found on the later models.

No need, the fact that you saved another lawn ranger is good enough for me!

No Kidding!! Looks like it could eat a blizzard for breakfast....

Got one Grandson ready for wet, cold, white stuff!

My 441-8 quit running a couple years ago so I parked it and used another one of my Horses to mow with.I decided to see what was wrong with the 414.No spark.Checked all wiring connections.Checked all safety switches.Cleaned spade connectors on the ignition switch.Still no spark.Pulled the fan shroud off last night and found........Head gasket had been leaking at some time and must have blew out some hot air onto the coil wire and just about burned it off.Also burned off the white primary wire on the coil.Ordered a new coil and head gasket .Hope this is all that's wrong.Funny thing is that this tractor ran perfectly until it just up and quit running.

Welcome to the Red Square Vendors A-Z Tractor. I have added a link to your web site on my links page. So many of my customers are always asking if I have parts so now I know where to send them. http://www.redoyourhorse.com/wheel-horse-links/

Fine lookin piece of machinery and the deck looks correct to me.

"the engine now runs but has no power, " When that happened to my C-81 it turned out to be the points. They needed to be cleaned / filed and set the way the engine likes it. Factory setting is .020 which should work. I have had enough issues with points on my Kohler engines that I am starting to believe the materials they use for new points is NG.

SART and I went down to pool 4 Red Wing Mn. We had a pretty good time, caught alot af fish and 9 keepers from 16 to 20 inches

That big Tomahawk chipper would be a nice score.... Sarge

Talk to your local mechanic shop and see who he uses for his machine shop work. He won't take his work to a machine shop he does not trust to do his work. I have done a dozen or so K series kohler rebuilds with aftermarket engine parts with great success. Besides a quality machining job and a clean assembly will make a quality engine rebuild. And

This is my best buddy, Lacey. She's a 9 year old Blue Healer. In her prime, she was really something to watch her work. She's retired to pet duty now. Mark.

For the hydraulics alone...... GET IT!!!!!!!! Don't let it be turned into tuna cans. Or even worse.... MTD products. Could you sleep at night knowing that Horse would be ground up and reincarnated as the newest generation "Craftsman"? Mark.

Here's a couple of photos of our guard dog called Lily, she's a 2008 Patterdale. she likes to be on the look out for visitors but dosnt go much on seagulls

Bad to the bone looking, what a job it does. Glenn

Scrap steel is running slightly less that $5 a 100lb. Do that horse & deck are probable $25-30 scrap. so $60 doubles and $100 triples their money. So go get it!.

Lets see a box store lawnmower do that forty some years out.Mark,that looks great.Nice fab.JAinVA

Here you go...nice job...that's beautiful hope mine comes out that nice !

Ok guys. I tend to live by the "Instructions are just the manufacturers opinion" theory. That may be because when I do read them I sometimes over complicate things. That's what happened here. I initially thought parts for this starter were no longer available but Craig set me straight on that. Then a few blurbs in the repair manual made me a bit gun shy. There was absolutely no reason to be. Here's how the disassembly went. Reassembly will be a while because I will be stripping and painting the case. This is really a very simple starter. Here's the backside. Simply remove the handle being careful of the spring tension. Pull the rope inside the housing and Hook it in the notch you see at about the 8 o'clock position on the pulley. That will allow you to unwind the spring. It was only wound two turns. Remove the bolt and you will see the pawls. Note the little spring and where it connects. The main spring will be exposed. This is where they say if you remove it you have to install a new one. Nope, not true. You can clamp the coil with some long nose vice grips near the ring on the post and work it out. The pawls lift right out. A good cleaning is in order here. The pulley is split and held together by these four bolts. It clamps and holds the end of the rope. This is where Kohler states to use only an original rope so it holds properly. A quality 7/32" rope will work fine. Don't try one of those cheapies at Walmart. My rope was in good shape until I saw the end. You can see it in the picture. You can also see where the spring connects on the pulley. Here's what a new spring looks like. That green ring holds it together until you install it. Ummmmmm, make sure you flip it over before installing it. Kohler springs as well as Stens and others are available. Even though I don't need one I wend ahead and ordered a Kohler just so I have it. It cost a bit more than a Stens but I just wanted the name. I'm sure you can all see how simple reassembly will be. When you put the pulley back on make sure the spring catch on the backside is a little more clockwise to the spring hook. Then just rotate it counter clockwise and it will catch. Since I unwound mine two turns I'll rewind the same. You just need to make sure the rope retracts all the way.

Can anyone tell what model this one is? It's been sitting for awhile and appears to sunk in the ground a bit.

Ok , been asked a lot of questions about how I rebuild front axles - unless they are physically broken no axle is really past the wear point of being rebuildable . I'm starting with an early D series front axle and upgrading to a later model D series 1" spindle type with the heavier casting . Since I could never find any pics of a comparison - here we go.... If you look closely - there is an obvious difference in the castings at the spindle end - the later model axles were thicker and larger diameter to accept the heavy duty 1" spindles. Later model (post '75 , I believe). This photo really shows the obvious difference in diameter - early models were much smaller and a thinner casting for the early 3/4" only spindles . Need to find someone with a tape measure and one of the oddball early D-200 1" spindle equipped tractors to find out if those were a thin casting or the thicker type . The machined relief is for the roller thrust bearings that were originally used - if you ever buy a D or I believe the 520's , this is the first thing to check as many were never properly greased and destroyed that bearing . This can really wreck an expensive spindle and make it more difficult to rebuild the axle casting itself . I will be re-machining these reliefs to mimic the factory design to keep dirt out and retain the grease inside the bearing . Early castings , at least on this 18 Auto or D-180 that I have (missing the stupid id tag completely) measures roughly 1-1/2" outside ... Later model upgraded casting is a whole different animal - there are major differences in how they were cast and not just at the spindle ends . Later models were 1-3/4" on the outside . Since I've never seen a new old stock replacement I'm not certain as to the original finish quality of the machining on these things - it is obvious that over time dirt has entered and a lack of proper grease results in the bores being worn badly - some are literally egg-shaped , especially tractors from the late 60's with high hours and heavy use . Snowblowers and other heavy front implements of course accelerate this wear issue - I'm out to cure that and make the unit more serviceable . The biggest , #1 problem with these is how they are greased . I've bought and sold tractors for years and had some that had huge grease balls around the spindles , inside the wheels and all over the front end . At least they were trying but the wear is almost no different than one that was seriously neglected . With the weight on the spindle , the grease is forced upward and exits at the E-clip at the top , never lubricating the bottom where it rides on the spindle base for the steering arm . The correct way to grease these things is to lift the tractor BY THE FRAME , NOT THE AXLE ITSELF . Also , do not lift it by the front mule quick attach - you will bend the cross rod for the latch and destroy it . Best way is to use a block on the frame itself or make a spreader to fit the jack , maybe I can take the time to get pics to show better ways to pick these things up since they aren't exactly lightweight ...lol . No make or brand was exempt from this issue , they all did it . The problem becomes parts availability - there are only so many parts left and finding good spindles and axles is becoming a serious problem . Some brands aren't too bad (such as the green ones) since they still support most of their older models . Unfortunately for us - Toro has chosen to drop these parts and stock is quite limited . I got really lucky and a parts dealer friend had a pair of NOS 1" D series spindles , one of the last pair to exist to my knowledge . Those are getting blueprinted and angles mapped for later - I may tackle making new ones in both the 3/4" and 1" versions . I believe with a little engineering the earlier models made in the 60's could use a sort of generic spindle since there little difference in the many models - it was mostly down to the axle's angles and width . My D will be upgraded to heim joints for the steering . Many of the tie rod and drag link ends are NLA and finding steering arms that don't have the tapered holes wallowed out is getting pretty tough . The low angle taper on those automotive style ends allows them to work loose despite having fine thread castle nuts and cotters - the force required to turn the wheels due to the above mentioned lubrication issues , combined with a gear reduction Ross type steering box makes the holes in the arms wear - I've seen 4 of these spindles on different D's all worn the same way with the tapered factory holes oval in shape and the shanks on the rod ends could be easily turned with a wrench, which should not be possible .Converting to heims is not too hard and less expensive in the long run - the only issue being the left hand threaded rod ends at the steering bell crank (or idler arm) . Since it sits so close to the underside of the frame and being tight quarters we may have to resort to using a reduced size heim joint which are easily obtained if you know the part number systems . I have a NOS pair of factory rod ends (ball joints in the parts manual) so this one won't be getting this upgrade for now . The factory bell crank is subject to wear like everything else . It's buried up under the engine and I suspect most were neglected being so hidden . Inside is a steel bushing riding on the cast iron bore of the bell crank . The retaining bolt , bushing and iron casting all get worn - which results in sloppy steering . On a D that's a real problem since their turning radius is huge to begin with . I've modified mine slightly by moving the turning arc point of the drag link inward by 3/8" - when it's done I'll test and measure the turning radius to see how much it helped and if there is any interference or other issues . Models with working turning brakes in either the stock D-200 or kit-equipped smaller models of course helped when in dirt or grass - just never use those on pavement or hard surfaces since it can really bind things up and possibly cause rear axle damage . It's all mentioned in the manual and instructions for the kits to add turning brakes . Not sure yet if I'll just make a separate thread on the steering parts or include them here - plenty of info to make a long thread on the cast iron axle alone . Depending upon how well it works out I may offer this as another service to the long list of other parts I build or rebuild currently . Guy with a lathe , far too many tools and a TIG welder must stay busy during the long winters....lol . So far, it hasn't been a cheap venture - tooling bits and parts totals are well over $400 and climbing - haven't really started any machine work on the axle as of yet since I'm still waiting on one tooling bit . I will try to document what is used in the rebuild and a parts list as well as sources . All bushings and bearings used will be off the shelf parts so it's nothing that isn't easily available . Lathe work my be required to avoid using custom ordered parts and their associated extra costs . Anyhow , more to follow.... Sarge Going forward

Well there you go @!! Thank you !!

Here are the markers made from Stainless steel with reflective tape applied. This one is with the flash applied to prove they really are reflective. I will be installing them this week. No buried services around me, everything is above ground.

I have now removed the engine and the engine sump. I can now see the problem ,the camshaft has broken just behind the inlet valve lobe . the angle of the brake was just enough to turn the camshaft , but not keep the valve timing correct. I now need to source some replacement parts the engine no of my tractor is 30452D and I am told is a C series. can anyone help?

This was at Larry's Mid Mo M&G in September. I told Larry he could have put "Ran when parked" on the sign. Ain't that what most of the Craig's List ads says when something doesn't run?

For anyone in need, I have a SCREEN STRAINER as in these pics....Size it up to yours and send me an email if in the market for a good used one. my direct email is: daveoman@windstream.net

The REO tub mower was my first mower I bought when I mowed lawns in high school. Sweet Ride! I think mine was a 1966

Thought so. We're only allowed 1 sauger per day on the Winnebago sys, they also count as one of your walleyes. ( 5 eyes or 1 sauger & 4 eyes). Walleye fishing is almost as complicated as trout fishing in WI, better know where you are and what the rules are on that body of water. Enjoy your fish dinner!

Then she should be putting up the lights!

The machine was balking a bit today. Good news- the tank does not leak. The sediment bowl leaks but that is easy to replace. The tractor started and ran good at first so I cut it off and installed the hood and setup the camera for a video. And the tractor would not start. Starter turning hard but the belt not moving. Pulled the spark plug, engine turns freely, install the plug starts right up. Put the hood on, start the camera- same problem. I go through this several times. I wonder if the carb is causing a flood when the engine is turned off. Or maybe my recent throttle cable and choke cable install is improperly rigged. Tomorrow is another day.

Home made chisel plow. Looks good and it works great too.

Any is worth $100 IMO.

Maestranzi Bros Inc. Beverly, MA My dad bought our 1974 B80 there as well as his 520. My 417-8 was purchased there from the original owner too. They're still in business as a Toro dealer and they have been for over 50 years.

Let it SNOW!

If your 314 has a Magnum engine try the Acc terminal of the switch, Just remember to turn the key to on for a few seconds to fill the bowl. When you are cranking the acc terminal is not activated. If you have a battery/point ignition you can use the Ign terminal on the switch

Welded in the front cross brace, mounted the hoses to it, and straightened them up a bit. Much cleaner looking. Then I ran another test Now I need to finish the rear hitch and put the weight box on, and order some dirt and mulch. The weight box is removable, I caught the HF cargo carrier that Andy used on sale so cheap I couldn't build anything for less, but once the weight box is on it won't fit in my garage any more. I'll have to figure out what to do about that, I don't want to have to put it outside. I guess for now, I'll have to load the box every time, or park it in the tent, I can always put my brother in law's piece of crap Deere outside.