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Got the blower on the 520, and my back up for the C-175 pusher... is another C-165 set up for pushing too. Still may set a Suburban up this year too...for any light duty accumulations.

Rustoleum roasting by an open fire.... About to suffer Mrs Ks ire Were you painting inside again..... Just calm down and count to ten Little horses need to shine,,, Even in the winter time.

Sorry to hear that Lane. My identity was stolen once. When they saw my bank account balance, the deposited $20 for me!

Here's some photos of my stove in the kitchen, just doing some breakfast. the rack above lowers down so i can hang my Wheelhorse parts up for drying ( when the wife's out of course)

ALASKA 2 door...takes 19" logs.

Here is my Franklin stove. Just got cold enough to use it today.

I don't have a wood stove any longer. Now I have a coal boiler that heats both the house and the barn.

here's my heater...jotul f55 I believe. The forth I've had in the house. I grew tired of buying cheap Craigslist finds and finally had to pony up...well worth the money and even got a tax rebate. I heat from the bottom up and can do it on 3 cord or so on a cold winter

Ok , been asked a lot of questions about how I rebuild front axles - unless they are physically broken no axle is really past the wear point of being rebuildable . I'm starting with an early D series front axle and upgrading to a later model D series 1" spindle type with the heavier casting . Since I could never find any pics of a comparison - here we go.... If you look closely - there is an obvious difference in the castings at the spindle end - the later model axles were thicker and larger diameter to accept the heavy duty 1" spindles. Later model (post '75 , I believe). This photo really shows the obvious difference in diameter - early models were much smaller and a thinner casting for the early 3/4" only spindles . Need to find someone with a tape measure and one of the oddball early D-200 1" spindle equipped tractors to find out if those were a thin casting or the thicker type . The machined relief is for the roller thrust bearings that were originally used - if you ever buy a D or I believe the 520's , this is the first thing to check as many were never properly greased and destroyed that bearing . This can really wreck an expensive spindle and make it more difficult to rebuild the axle casting itself . I will be re-machining these reliefs to mimic the factory design to keep dirt out and retain the grease inside the bearing . Early castings , at least on this 18 Auto or D-180 that I have (missing the stupid id tag completely) measures roughly 1-1/2" outside ... Later model upgraded casting is a whole different animal - there are major differences in how they were cast and not just at the spindle ends . Later models were 1-3/4" on the outside . Since I've never seen a new old stock replacement I'm not certain as to the original finish quality of the machining on these things - it is obvious that over time dirt has entered and a lack of proper grease results in the bores being worn badly - some are literally egg-shaped , especially tractors from the late 60's with high hours and heavy use . Snowblowers and other heavy front implements of course accelerate this wear issue - I'm out to cure that and make the unit more serviceable . The biggest , #1 problem with these is how they are greased . I've bought and sold tractors for years and had some that had huge grease balls around the spindles , inside the wheels and all over the front end . At least they were trying but the wear is almost no different than one that was seriously neglected . With the weight on the spindle , the grease is forced upward and exits at the E-clip at the top , never lubricating the bottom where it rides on the spindle base for the steering arm . The correct way to grease these things is to lift the tractor BY THE FRAME , NOT THE AXLE ITSELF . Also , do not lift it by the front mule quick attach - you will bend the cross rod for the latch and destroy it . Best way is to use a block on the frame itself or make a spreader to fit the jack , maybe I can take the time to get pics to show better ways to pick these things up since they aren't exactly lightweight ...lol . No make or brand was exempt from this issue , they all did it . The problem becomes parts availability - there are only so many parts left and finding good spindles and axles is becoming a serious problem . Some brands aren't too bad (such as the green ones) since they still support most of their older models . Unfortunately for us - Toro has chosen to drop these parts and stock is quite limited . I got really lucky and a parts dealer friend had a pair of NOS 1" D series spindles , one of the last pair to exist to my knowledge . Those are getting blueprinted and angles mapped for later - I may tackle making new ones in both the 3/4" and 1" versions . I believe with a little engineering the earlier models made in the 60's could use a sort of generic spindle since there little difference in the many models - it was mostly down to the axle's angles and width . My D will be upgraded to heim joints for the steering . Many of the tie rod and drag link ends are NLA and finding steering arms that don't have the tapered holes wallowed out is getting pretty tough . The low angle taper on those automotive style ends allows them to work loose despite having fine thread castle nuts and cotters - the force required to turn the wheels due to the above mentioned lubrication issues , combined with a gear reduction Ross type steering box makes the holes in the arms wear - I've seen 4 of these spindles on different D's all worn the same way with the tapered factory holes oval in shape and the shanks on the rod ends could be easily turned with a wrench, which should not be possible .Converting to heims is not too hard and less expensive in the long run - the only issue being the left hand threaded rod ends at the steering bell crank (or idler arm) . Since it sits so close to the underside of the frame and being tight quarters we may have to resort to using a reduced size heim joint which are easily obtained if you know the part number systems . I have a NOS pair of factory rod ends (ball joints in the parts manual) so this one won't be getting this upgrade for now . The factory bell crank is subject to wear like everything else . It's buried up under the engine and I suspect most were neglected being so hidden . Inside is a steel bushing riding on the cast iron bore of the bell crank . The retaining bolt , bushing and iron casting all get worn - which results in sloppy steering . On a D that's a real problem since their turning radius is huge to begin with . I've modified mine slightly by moving the turning arc point of the drag link inward by 3/8" - when it's done I'll test and measure the turning radius to see how much it helped and if there is any interference or other issues . Models with working turning brakes in either the stock D-200 or kit-equipped smaller models of course helped when in dirt or grass - just never use those on pavement or hard surfaces since it can really bind things up and possibly cause rear axle damage . It's all mentioned in the manual and instructions for the kits to add turning brakes . Not sure yet if I'll just make a separate thread on the steering parts or include them here - plenty of info to make a long thread on the cast iron axle alone . Depending upon how well it works out I may offer this as another service to the long list of other parts I build or rebuild currently . Guy with a lathe , far too many tools and a TIG welder must stay busy during the long winters....lol . So far, it hasn't been a cheap venture - tooling bits and parts totals are well over $400 and climbing - haven't really started any machine work on the axle as of yet since I'm still waiting on one tooling bit . I will try to document what is used in the rebuild and a parts list as well as sources . All bushings and bearings used will be off the shelf parts so it's nothing that isn't easily available . Lathe work my be required to avoid using custom ordered parts and their associated extra costs . Anyhow , more to follow.... Sarge Going forward

Now the colder weather is coming its interesting to know whats keeping you warm where you live. Here's a photo of my open fire in the lounge that we have going in the evenings it burns logs cut to 12 to 14 inches , sometimes coal. I'll add the photo shortly as its on my pad

Chilly day here but finally got heat in my garage,so i thought i would spend the day changing fluids and servicing my wheelhorses. Now if i could find a plow for my 875 i'll be all set for snow.

We all heard a strange noise last night as we were watching the horizontal rain blowing by the window . The lighting was intense and with each flash you could see the shingles lifting up on the barn and the trees in the fence row bending over . It wasn't until my daughter went out the garage and seen this . This was one of our favorite trees to take pictures with as well as the perfect shade/privacy tree for the parking area.

Here's my "wood stove". Well, it does burn wood.

Here's the story....I am a career FF, and I do part time landscaping, my own biz. So I'm in this parking lot...and I have my Toro Grandstand (cutting) and my old Wheel Horse 312 Hydro as a mule for my aerations. Both are shoved onto my 12 trailer. Random cable guy in his truck comments on it and asks me if I want another WH, he'd sell it to me cheap. I said, no thanks, I'm good...then he sees my Firefighter plates and asks about that...I told him I do that full-time and do landscaping part time. He then says...How about I give it to you?? WHAT??? Of course I thought it would be in horrible condition...but when I picked it up...I was completely surprised!! He sweetened the deal...he also gave me his Trac-VAC!!!! What??? He just had no more use for it, lives on 7 acres and has big tractors and toys....and wanted to give it to someone who would use it especially a first responder. So to pay it forward...I've been doing all of my neighbor's leaves free of charge. Just wanted to share!!

I had a wood stove but ...... it burned up. That's the last time I build a stove out of wood! So I got this stove made out of steel ..... It burns rice coal.

Is that your powder coat oven Ed?

We get those calls over here also. It's usually " I'm from Windows"? "You have a problem with your computer", " You need to do so and so to give me access and I will fix it" My reply is " You are speaking to D.C. ( my initials ) Hall, Cambridgeshire I.T. Fraud Squad, who am I speaking to ?" Strangely enough, there is a 'click' and the line goes dead. ( D.C. = detective constable )

Get it....Wood Stove..

Hanging 200 lbs should not a problem at all but it must be secured and braced properly. And even if it is a problem, IMO it's still better to not get stuck or slide around in the snow wasting time while freezing my nuts off. Fix it in warm weather and do it all over again. This tractor pictured carries more weight than others are attaching to theirs. Built in '08, trans swap in '09 because of a snapped axle when running 10.5 dualies but so far so good since then. Not sure of the total weight but guaranteed it's more than 200. Same philosophy applies with this one too. I'd rather dig a trench in 2 hours instead of using a shovel for 12 hours and not worry about a trans which can be swapped in less than 10 hours, if necessary. So if the tractor does it's job, let's say 10 different times, which equals 100 hours of hard labor saved to sacrifice a trans bearing, so be it. No brainer IMO. BUT, I enjoy working on the tractors too so that certainly plays a roll and realize this way of thinking might not fit everyone's situation.

I think you are the exception that scares us! Certainly lots of us are using weights but I suppose if we are often pushing everything to the max that it's reasonable to expect something to break every once in a while. Then again, they just don't work as well without some additional weight!

"Americans imported 2 million Japanese cars every year and exported practically zero" Let's hope this trade unbalance is about to change.

Then again... been having lots of fun lately with my little custom too.

This is Mine, it lifes outside as its only used by me to burn unwanted stuff The mesh is there because the coals i wanted to get rid of were falling through the chimney

Anyone have any thoughts on how to preserve the chrome while storing for the winter .

Nice team Craig. And you can always bring that big yellow one home for the heavy stuff.

A bit of the original paint still survives on this '60 model 400 Nigel... ...seems to me, the closest match would be some IH(International Harvester) type of red.

LOL!now thats funny!

Here's my stove. Hearthstone soapstone stove. It's been just cold enough at night around here to light it.

Dang hackers and scammers !!! Last night I was locked out of safari said all my data and photos were being stolen . Everything looked to be a legit , a apple security pop up kept me from proceeding farther without calling apple support and the number . I immediately turned off my wifi . This morning I had my daughter use her iPhone to get ahold off apple support . Guess what ,totally different number . Called the correct number and sorted everything out . If I wasn't wise enough to double check the number and called it , they could have stole my info . You can never be to careful !

Ummm, my skill level is written right above my avatar pic! Think we're in the same league Ed, which is to use what you got and have fun while doing it. My stuff is FAR from perfect.

I'll probably keep my day job Jay......wait, I don't have a job.

Didn`t know you wrote poetry too Ed. Is there no end to your talents?

1964, 854. my little girl. Glenn

One nice lookin' man cave there.

Yes that was it, seat safety switch, as always thanks doc

11-19-1993 Chevy Cavalier heads to Japan On this day in 1993, Toyota and General Motors sign an historic agreement: Beginning in 1996, GM will offer its bestselling Chevy Cavalier, refitted with right-hand drive, for sale in Japan. The Cavalier was one of the first American automobiles to hit the Japanese market. The agreement that created the Toyota Cavalier was meant to help crack open the aggressively protectionist Japanese market for American imports. Many Japanese carmakers maintained that Tokyo’s laundry list of rules and regulations for foreign companies was not to blame for the massive ($37 billion) U.S. trade deficit; instead, they argued, the problem was American auto companies’ refusal to cater to the Japanese market by providing things like right-hand drive. But whatever the reason was, the fact remained that Americans imported about 2 million Japanese cars every year and exported practically zero. According to the plan, Toyota would sell 20,000 Ohio-built Cavaliers at its Japanese dealerships every year. The Toyota Cavalier was not the same car as its American cousin. Besides the right-hand drive, the Japanese Cavalier had longer accelerator pedals for shorter drivers, different exterior lights that complied with Japanese regulations, a flat fuel door, folding side mirrors and flared front fenders that covered the tires. It did not have cruise control. It did, however, have the same innards as its Chevy counterpart—a 2.4-liter, four-cylinder engine—and the same American-made GM-Delco radio. Ironically enough, Chevy had built its small, zippy Cavalier to compete with the imported compact cars that had become so popular in the U.S. during the oil crisis of the 1970s. The Cavalier replaced the Monza, a sporty coupe that had very poor fuel economy. The car went on sale in 1981 and was a hit almost right away: In 1984, it was the best-selling car in the country. To Japanese buyers, however, the car was not so appealing. In 1996, the Toyota Cavalier’s best year, Japanese customers only bought 11,467 of the cars; between October 1995 and March 2000, when GM cancelled the deal, only 36,216 sold in all.

Very impressive Craig. Looks like you are ready. It is snowing here now.

Does it actually stall it or does the engine cut out? If it is indeed a stall, there is something rubbing in the blower-doubtful as usually the PTO belt will slip. If the engine cuts out, there is something wrong with the safety switch (usually seat). Take the blower belt off and try it. That should eliminate one of the two potential causes

I also now have a pellet stove. Completely automatic, just set your temperature and it controls itself including lighting. Just need to dump in a bag of pellets every once in a while. Cleat

Using the measurements Richard provided above... here's a few picts of them footrests, and how they attach Nigel.

Couple a sexy Black-Hoods right there!! Mike.....

Here's my "wood stove". Well, it does burn wood. Blimey, their little logs

Here is information from Forbes regarding exports. Although Japan may be a difficult individual market, the USA was still number three for 2015 in value exported. Below are the 15 countries that exported the highest dollar value worth of cars in 2015: Germany: US$152.7 billion (22.7% of total cars exports) Japan: $86.1 billion (12.8%) United States: $55.3 billion (8.2%) Canada: $44.9 billion (6.7%) South Korea: $41.8 billion (6.2%) United Kingdom: $38.9 billion (5.8%) Spain: $33.1 billion (4.9%) Mexico: $32.8 billion (4.9%) Belgium: $27.8 billion (4.1%) France: $17.8 billion (2.7%) Czech Republic: $16.9 billion (2.5%) Slovakia: $14.1 billion (2.1%) Italy: $14 billion (2.1%) Hungary: $11.2 billion (1.7%) Thailand: $9.4 billion (1.4%)

Our guest house has a gas log stove that our old cat was very fond of!

give her some polish im sure it would help.

Chilly day for a road trip. stopped by and knocked on @WHX9door must have been sleeping in

I admit to using both wheel weights and suitcase weights. Although it has been said that weight hanging off the rear will wear the bearings and seals, wheel weights will cause wear on the hubs and axles. The rotational mass tries to continue rotating so it is left to the hub screws and key in the keyway to stop. The screws come loose and the key eats away at the keyway cut in the axle.

Howard, yes I was going to do inside (farmall CUB) and whatever I found for the outside but I wanted to keep hub cabs on as well when mowing without fluid for now, but since I'm replacing the well weather checked/dry rotting O.E. Dico tires I'm going with fluid and those, I have 75# weights fluid and 120# on the rear of my anniversary cab 520,Jeff.

You got the first step of the 3 steps done, in becoming a Wheel Horse veteran of stubborn part removal. The next step is the frozen hitch pin removal. Once you have conquered that you will graduate to the ultimate test. The dreaded stuck steering wheel removal. After you have accomplished all of these three feats you will be awarded the badge of frustration. You will have learned and used every cuss word known to man plus invented a few more along the way. You will have earned the right to have joined the many that have come before you and walk down that hall of fame of the most frustrating Wheel Horse parts to remove. A very lofty goal indeed. Remember many have tried only to have their sprit ripped from them in a very heartless fashion. Very few have succeeded and those that live to tell about it are scarred physically and emotionally. That's why they are held with the highest honor.

Today is the deadline for pictures. I have been working on one version of the calendar, but I may make more than one version. Here is the version I have been working on. If you see something that isn't right, let me know. 2017 calendar reduced.pdf